Wanting to setup my MP mold today. Never had one so please help

[Stopsign32v]

So I read this https://www.mp-molds.com/tipstricks/general-advice-for-using-brass-hp-hollow-point-moulds/

I also read some threads on this site. One thing I did see which was a discrepancy was someone said to take the mold apart when you heat cycle it. I do plan to bake mine in the oven at 400 degrees. Do I take it apart or leave it together? Also the molds came with 4 different pin versions...So it says to have the pins inserted when you heat cycle it. Does it matter which pins?

Also my mold did not come with any lube like it was suppose to. Can I use 2 stroke oil like in other molds?

[zymguy]

Sounds like your well informed , knowing what you do itll turn out . I'll tell ya what i do .
I heat cycle the mold together.
I heat cycle with the pins i think will stick the most ( usually penta) I use other pins without the heat cycle later doesn't seem to matter.
I use synthetic 2 stroke oil.
Get after it, itll be fine

[StuBach]

I hear cycle apart. As I understand the process (someone please correct me if I’m wrong) the point of heat cycling is to build the patina on the brass which is done with heat and oxygen. To me it makes sense to allow as much air to contact the faces of the mold as possible to allow oxygen to contact surface. I tried heat cycling with mold together once and only got the patina on the outside not the faces as needed, but as always YRMV.

[Stopsign32v]

I hear cycle apart. As I understand the process (someone please correct me if I’m wrong) the point of heat cycling is to build the patina on the brass which is done with heat and oxygen. To me it makes sense to allow as much air to contact the faces of the mold as possible to allow oxygen to contact surface. I tried heat cycling with mold together once and only got the patina on the outside not the faces as needed, but as always YRMV.

Also heat cycle the pins and inserts?

[Super Sneaky Steve]

Heat cycles for your brass mould is like seasoning a barrel. Some call it science, others call it nonsense. I made beautiful boolits without doing any of that. Preheat, fill and lube.

[Stopsign32v]

I'm assuming you do not need to heat cycle "season" the inserts and pins. Currently I'm only heat cycling the brass cavities and top plate (not the screw, plate removed from mold). I did brake parts cleaner everything and wipe it down with a shop paper towel. Did not touch it with anything but the non lint shop paper towel (your fingers have oil on them).

Will check on it at 8pm.

[Iwsbull]

I have done it both ways with M&p molds and other brands and I honestly cannot tell a difference the last 4 molds I bought were cleaned, dried and put to work.

[StuBach]

I personally do not hear treat pins but instead clean really well and than I store the pins in a container with a couple of drops of MP mold Lube, shake to coat all pieces, than when ready to case put whatever pins in I desire.

(You can for sure cast without seasoning and many have done this including me. I found the first session casting with unseasoned molds was a bit more frustrating and less productive, than come back the next time and things run smoother, third time it’s like greased lightning. Switched to Seasoning mold block by heat cycling half a dozen times and my first session with a new mold became greased lightning without all the frustration. I have small kids so every session at the pot is a gift so I can’t afford to waste them. 30 seconds x 6 times at the toaster oven is much easier to come by. YRMV)

Key to using his molds in my experience is heat maintenance. A hot plate is incredibly helpful at getting mold and pins to temp and keeping it there. Than maintain a good cadence and don’t stop to admire your handiwork, if the bases are fully filled out drop them and keep moving. If you notice wrinkly bullets, toss back in, adjust temps of hot plate or alloy accordingly, and move on. If the pins cool too much you’ll have issues.

Another tip, some have found that if a pin likes to stick to the bullet they can put some graphite on it from a graphite pencil. I’ve never done this but read others who have. If I have a pin set that’s an issue I take a couple light passes over a white wet stone and clean any burs that might be left from milling and never have an issue again. Not trying to hot off material, just kill any burs or ridges.

I cast with several of his molds from a light 93gr 9mm bullet to a heavy 300gr 44mag and I have found the sweet spot for most in my pot is around 700-715deg alloy and Walmart hot plate set to medium.

[44Blam]

It's like getting a Lego set those molds... There's like 150 pcs and a lot are optional.
The design is actually really good. I really like mine and I make 44 mag boolits sometimes with it. Those are a labor of love though. I use the penta points and it is not easy to get that mold dropping perfect boolits. Most of my molds are forgiving - that one needs to be HOT but not too hot with hot lead but not too hot... It's like the wife of molds...

I usually setup a pot with 10-12 lbs for that mold and switch after about 4 or 5 lbs...

[Stopsign32v]

Well I'm on my 3rd heat cycle. Will probably do 1 or 2 more tomorrow. We will be making boolits Friday or Saturday

[Helka]

I did the heat cycle 3 times fully closed with penta pins in. really nice patina coverage.

[Stopsign32v]

I did the heat cycle 3 times fully closed with penta pins in. really nice patina coverage.

I think I'm going to do 2 or 3 more additional heat cycles with the pins in now. Can 6 heat cycles hurt the mold? Common sense tells me no but I wanted to ask.

[tazman]

I think I'm going to do 2 or 3 more additional heat cycles with the pins in now. Can 6 heat cycles hurt the mold? Common sense tells me no but I wanted to ask.

You will be heat cycling it every time you use it. Heat cycle it as many times as you wish.

[AlHunt]

So I read this https://www.mp-molds.com/tipstricks/general-advice-for-using-brass-hp-hollow-point-moulds/

I also read some threads on this site. One thing I did see which was a discrepancy was someone said to take the mold apart when you heat cycle it. I do plan to bake mine in the oven at 400 degrees. Do I take it apart or leave it together? Also the molds came with 4 different pin versions...So it says to have the pins inserted when you heat cycle it. Does it matter which pins?

Also my mold did not come with any lube like it was suppose to. Can I use 2 stroke oil like in other molds?

For my 2 cents ... if the manufacturer is giving me the process, I'm going to do exactly that. That way, if I have a problem, I haven't introduced any variables and they can (I think) better help me.

Yes, the 2 stroke oil will work fine.

I'd bet you're going to love that mold.

I have 1 MP mold, I followed the directions to the letter and it drops perfect bullets.

[Stopsign32v]

So I have a question...We are talking about heat cycling (AKA patina)

The mold today looks absolutely no different than when it was new. When I hear "patina" I think a different look. Should it look different?

[kreuzlover]

If I have to do all that crap to get a NEW bullet mold to function, they can take a leap! In 55 years of casting bullets, and reloading, I've NEVER had to do all that to get a mold to function. Think I'll stick with RCBS, LYMAN, or hell, even Lee molds before I would go to all that. Some of you fellows must have plenty of excess time on your hands, to have to do all that! Not this hoss! They can sell those molds to somebody besides me.

[Stopsign32v]

If I have to do all that crap to get a NEW bullet mold to function, they can take a leap! In 55 years of casting bullets, and reloading, I've NEVER had to do all that to get a mold to function. Think I'll stick with RCBS, LYMAN, or hell, even Lee molds before I would go to all that. Some of you fellows must have plenty of excess time on your hands, to have to do all that! Not this hoss! They can sell those molds to somebody besides me.

Glad you could contribute

[StuBach]

So I have a question...We are talking about heat cycling (AKA patina)

The mold today looks absolutely no different than when it was new. When I hear "patina" I think a different look. Should it look different?

You won’t notice the initial patina but if you were to compare a side by side new mold to heat cycled mold you’d see a difference in the tint. The new molds almost have a white brass color where, provided mold is clean and dry, after the first heat cycle you’ll start to see it darkening (had the luck to have two molds arrive within a week of each other so I tested this but sadly lost the photos). As you start to cast with it it will continue to darken over time to a point and stay there.

To the earlier post, to each their own. I love my iron HG and Lyman/ideal molds and it’s true they just work but if you want HP/HB bullets your better off going the brass route than aluminum in my opinion and brass molds need a little different care. Iron molds need consistent maintenance over time (keeping clean and oiled) so it’s not much different. Try them all if you can and pick what’s best for you, there is no right or wrong choice I don’t think, just personal preference.

[dondiego]

If I have to do all that crap to get a NEW bullet mold to function, they can take a leap! In 55 years of casting bullets, and reloading, I've NEVER had to do all that to get a mold to function. Think I'll stick with RCBS, LYMAN, or hell, even Lee molds before I would go to all that. Some of you fellows must have plenty of excess time on your hands, to have to do all that! Not this hoss! They can sell those molds to somebody besides me.

You heat cycle your mold every time that you use it.

[AlHunt]

If I have to do all that crap to get a NEW bullet mold to function, they can take a leap! In 55 years of casting bullets, and reloading, I've NEVER had to do all that to get a mold to function. Think I'll stick with RCBS, LYMAN, or hell, even Lee molds before I would go to all that. Some of you fellows must have plenty of excess time on your hands, to have to do all that! Not this hoss! They can sell those molds to somebody besides me.

40 odd years ago I went to work in a little shop with, among other people, a guy named Sam. About 65 years my senior, Sam had been doing this kind of work his whole life.

One day, after I got done explaining to him why he was doing it all wrong, Sam said to me, "We all work different, don't we, boy"?

Lesson learned.

[kevin c]

My aluminum molds, including the many MP versions I have, get solvent cleaned to remove any cutting oils and go right to work, but we're talking about brass molds here, right (at least it's my impression that all of Miha's HP molds are brass)? I only have two brass molds in calibers I don't shoot often so they haven't been used yet, but, correct me if I'm wrong, I thought the patina on brass molds is helpful in preventing tinning.

[Forrest r]

I have owned/used over 20 mp molds & have yet to "break in" any of them. I've always simply cleaned them with dawn dish soap, put the pins in (if the mold uses pins) and pre-heated them on a hot plate. Do the same thing with every brass mold, al mold, steel mold. When the alloys hot I take the mold off the hotplate and lube with synthetic 2-cycle oil and cast.

Some people like to season their brass molds & I'm glad they're taking the time to take care of their equipment as they see fit.

Myself I started using brass molds a long time ago & never did any "break in/heat cycling". Never had any issues with tinning either.

With these mihec molds try not to smear lead under the sprue plate. If you do fine steel wool is your friend with the mold hot lightly polish the smeared alloy off the bottom of the sprue plate. I like to put the 2-cycle oil on a q-tip and put an extremely light layer of lube on the bottom of every mold I cast with. If you do happen to get lead/alloy splatter on the mold faces a pencil is your friend with a hot mold. Keep the pencil sharp, don't push hard and remove any lead with the pencil tip.