Question about 9mm P 310 MR die roughness of sized case?

[kywoodwrkr]

Have been trying to resize some 9mm Luger brass with 310 MR die.
Maybe I'm just too much into carbide and don't remember non carbide, but cases look scratched when extracted on lower half.
Extraction is hard as well.
Will add picture tomorrow.
Used Imperial wax, cleaned die.
Is it normal for the 310 sizing dies to be not so polished as later date dies?
Could any/some 9mm 310 users respond with personal experiences and optional process?
Thanks.

[Pressman]

My early (1967) experience with 310 dies is they were not well polished. I was sizing 44 Mag using the 310 handles and a Tru-Line Jr press way back then. Neither tool was gratifying to use as the dies always felt rough and marked the brass.

Ken

[Green Frog]

If it were me, I’d just accept that it needed a little polishing and get out the fine grade valve grinding compound and a make a dowel rod to carry a little suede strip to turn with a hand drill. Also, remember that you only size the neck (“muzzle”) of the case with a Muzzle Resizer die... the inside of that die body shouldn’t even contact the lower half. If you are using a set of 310 tongs, they really don’t have the leverage for using the Full Length Sizing Dies intended to be used with the TruLine Jr Press.

Froggie

[kywoodwrkr]

Thank you both for your answering.
The dies in question are: one which is only numbered 134 and another which is stamped 9-MM-L-MR.
Another ringer I thought of is the brass which may very well have been fired in an FA weapon.
This fall I'll work at polishing the dies and make sure I will use some of my own fired brass as test vehicles.
Actually I guess if this tool was to be used as a last resort, it could/would work as intended.
Was just puttzing around and wondered about this particular case since it is tapered.
Again, thanks and will endeavor to polish dies as time is available.
Thanks.
Forgot I had a picture to post with this:
286259

Notice mouth of left most case-tapered case so
Being sized too much by die adjustment not right?

[Green Frog]

OK, confession time! When I reload 9mm that I didn’t fire in my pet Smith and Wesson, I assume it needs FL sizing and it gets the full treatment with a TC die from RCBS on my RCBS Jr press. In fact, lately I’ve just run all my brass through this step just to be sure. Then I prime them with an old 1st Gen Lee priming tool (pot metal body and screw in shell holder) bell the case mouths with a 310 tool…only enough to start a lead bullet, and add a small dose of W231 with an antique Pacific rotor type Pistol Measure. I then go back to the 310 tool to seat the bullet and remove the bell (and “sort of” crimp). Lately I’ve had a few fail the “plunk test” so I usually just run them all through the FC die as a final step.

Am I totally faithful to old school methods? No, but I “gitter done” and it works and feels good. If I were shooting competitively and needed a couple of thousand rounds a month, I’d set up the Dillon. To quote that great philosopher Ricky Nelson, “You can’t please everybody, so you’ve got to please yourself!” :)

Froggie

[kywoodwrkr]

I think that may be why I have been reluctant to actually do the whole process with the 310 tool.
That and I actually like getting off the road and in the ditch too much.
An example is when someone talked about making a Lee classic turret more squat by taking 1" off pillars.
I did that and then didn't want to mess with twisted square drive mechanism.
Had some old Herters shotgun dies, so made a 1" thick single stage aluminum replacement top for press taped for the dies.
Didn't have required shell holders so had to make some of them.
Have been using the 310 seaters and priming chambers for what seems forever.
The DA seaters are super for me especially when it comes to seating 5,56 bullets.
I will polish these two dies internals though because, well, they're there and it's a challenge.
I'll probably go overboard by making a brass polishing bob. Probably? Naw, I know I will!
Thank you both for the advice and insight.