Lyman Spartan, vs Texan press

[Ironwrx]

Hi. My fleet of single stage loading presses has tripled in size in l the last couple of weeks. I started with a Lyman “Spartan” press, and was given an older RCBS “RC” press which I love. Then, the other day, Someone gave me Texan press. Now, I want some opinions on whether to keep the Spartan, or the Texan. The Texan certainly looks a bit beefier in the frame, and the ram appears to be about the same as the Spartan. I think the Spartan has a longer handle. As far as “saleability”, I do not know, the Spartan seems more common, but maybe the Texan is worth more being less common??? I do want to keep one of the inclined presses to go with my RC as a second operation press but wanted opinions what to do? Please help with your opinions. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210702/23224d18948f86a56d256ea4a22086d3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210702/f5a2f7c963b12f1959b0836401712275.jpg


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[ndnchf]

FWIW - I have a Spartan that I refurbed, as well as a big O style press. I use the spartan for smaller cartridges and primer seating. Parts can still be found for them, which is a big plus. I really like it.

Check out my Spartan refurb thread:

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?294650-Lyman-Spartan-Refurb&highlight=Spartan

[762 shooter]

I would keep them all.

The Texan is just cool.

I have a RC and a Spartan anyway.

762

[smithnframe]

I’d get rid of the RCBS and strip the other 2 and repaint them!

[Shawlerbrook]

Agree on keeping them all in this crazy time, but if I had to choose the Texan would go.

[1hole]

I don't think there's a nickle's worth of difference between them to a user but I think the Texans were aluminum alloy. In the resale market the green Kool-Aid drinkers cause a dollar effect that really can't be justified in use but if you sell you should know about it.

If they were mine I'd probably sell two or all three of them and buy a much larger, stronger Lee Classic Cast Single Stage (all iron/steel) to get the much better leverage and other "best in class" user features.

(BUT, I would NOT get anyone's "quick-change" bushing die gimmicks.)

[pworley1]

I have them both and use them both. I use the spartan to prime and the Texan to trim. I am sure that you can find a use for both of them. If I had to pick one I would keep the Spartan.

[LUBEDUDE]

That frame of the Texan press came in both cast iron and aluminum, I have both. If I had to guess, I’d say yours is iron. However, the weak link to both of those Texans is the aluminum handle used for each one.

So while the Texan frame may be stronger, you may never get to test that out with the aluminum handle against the steel handle on the Lyman.

Now one more bounce of the ball the other way, the Texan handle is off center to the right and offers easier access with you your left hand; that is, IF you don’t mind using your right hand on the handle.

The only one who can say which is better is you deciding for you.

[Ironwrx]

I don't think there's a nickle's worth of difference between them to a user but I think the Texans were aluminum alloy. In the resale market the green Kool-Aid drinkers cause a dollar effect that really can't be justified in use but if you sell you should know about it.

If they were mine I'd probably sell two or all three of them and buy a much larger, stronger Lee Classic Cast Single Stage (all iron/steel) to get the much better leverage and other "best in class" user features.

(BUT, I would NOT get anyone's "quick-change" bushing die gimmicks.)

Actually you are 1/2 right. The Texan HANDLE is aluminum alloy. The rest is cast iron and heavy at that (even with the alloy handle, it weighs in a pound heavier than the Spartan). Maybe this is an early Texan being that it is cast iron. I do think I’ll end up keeping all the presses for the time being so I can leave some set up for priming /hardness testing etc.


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[gwpercle]

I've been casting and reloading for + 50 years ... I've seen a lot ... Best Advice ...
... Keep Them Both ... Never get rid of a good working single stage . You will sooner or later need two or three presses if you do any amount of reloading . Since 1967 : Lyman Spartan , Pacific Super Deluxe , Eagle Cobra 300 , Lyman A-A Turret and two Lee Hand Presses ... and I use them all !
Don't get rid of a perfectly good press , you won't get enough money to do squat if you sell it and they ain't eating no hay ...trust me ...best advice ...keep them .
Gary

[Ironwrx]

That frame of the Texan press came in both cast iron and aluminum, I have both. If I had to guess, I’d say yours is iron. However, the weak link to both of those Texans is the aluminum handle used for each one.

So while the Texan frame may be stronger, you may never get to test that out with the aluminum handle against the steel handle on the Lyman.

Now one more bounce of the ball the other way, the Texan handle is off center to the right and offers easier access with you your left hand; that is, IF you don’t mind using your right hand on the handle.

The only one who can say which is better is you deciding for you.

I do think the strongest press I have in my fleet is the RCBS with it’s bigger ram 1” vs 13/16” for the Lyman, and the Texan. Also the handle diameter is 3/4” vs 5/8” on the Lyman. And the handle length is 15-1/2” vs 12-1/2” on the Texan and Spartan. So, I’ll leave the heavy work to the RCBS and leave the lighter operations to the other two.


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[farmbif]

if they taking up too much space and you need to make room I can help, you can send that sweet looking RCBS press.
in all reality if it were me I'd keep all of them its not like they are going to go bad or anything like that.

[Ironwrx]

I've been casting and reloading for + 50 years ... I've seen a lot ... Best Advice ...
... Keep Them Both ... Never get rid of a good working single stage . You will sooner or later need two or three presses if you do any amount of reloading . Since 1967 : Lyman Spartan , Pacific Super Deluxe , Eagle Cobra 300 , Lyman A-A Turret and two Lee Hand Presses ... and I use them all !
Don't get rid of a perfectly good press , you won't get enough money to do squat if you sell it and they ain't eating no hay ...trust me ...best advice ...keep them .
Gary

I have come through this discussion to realize you are 100% correct. In all three presses, the only money I have invested is $12 for an old Pacific that I traded for the Spartan. The other two were free, and I just like them all for different reasons.


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[Three44s]

An RCBS Rock Chucker is never wrong, the last to go in my book.

Unless you need the money, I would keep all of those single stage presses though!

Three44s

[Ironwrx]

…In the resale market the green Kool-Aid drinkers cause a dollar effect that really can't be justified in use but if you sell you should know about it.


(BUT, I would NOT get anyone's "quick-change" bushing die gimmicks.)

I’m confused by the line about the “green Kool-Aid drinkers” what do you mean?? Also in the end you mention “quick change bushing die gimmicks “ I presume this would include Hornady’s Lock and load quick change bushings?


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[1hole]

I’m confused by the line about the “green Kool-Aid drinkers” what do you mean??

I mean those who think "RCBS" is the correct answer to all tool questions. I have several, including an RC 2, and they are good tools but so are the others.


Also in the end you mention “quick change bushing die gimmicks “ I presume this would include Hornady’s Lock and load quick change bushings?

Yes. (Of course about half of Hornady's tools carry their "Lock and Load" marketing labels that have no meaning.)

Exchanging screwed in dies isn't difficult or time intensive. Dies can normally be swapped in about a minute and even the quickies take a few seconds. So, in the course of a two or four die reloading session, how much time can the quick change gimmicks "save"? (I need more time that that to sip on a cup of coffee as I reload!) And anyone with a moderately large die collection must spend quite a bit to save those few meaningless seconds.

[Pressman]

1hole, I have to agree with you, but then I am a traditionalist and enjoy reloading for relaxation and using a green press.

The Texan press pictured is a Rotex/Texan from 1968. It's called the Double C, model 256. Shipped new it was $24.95. It's a decent press, the frame is stout, and the aluminum handle works ok. It was good competition to the very popular Lyman Spartan of the same time.

Ken

[Ironwrx]

I mean those who think "RCBS" is the correct answer to all tool questions. I have several, including an RC 2, and they are good tools but so are the others.



Yes. (Of course about half of Hornady's tools carry their "Lock and Load" marketing labels that have no meaning.)

Exchanging screwed in dies isn't difficult or time intensive. Dies can normally be swapped in about a minute and even the quickies take a few seconds. So, in the course of a two or four die reloading session, how much time can the quick change gimmicks "save"? (I need more time that that to sip on a cup of coffee as I reload!) And anyone with a moderately large die collection must spend quite a bit to save those few meaningless seconds.

Hi. Thanks for your reply. I by no means am arguing here, just stating what I think is the reason behind the “lock and load” bushing, and want to hear your take on it. I think their argument for using the lock and load is mainly to avoid having to adjust each die after changing to a new die. Yes, there is a time saving as well, but I think their main point, is to be able to set the die up and leave it adjusted.


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[1hole]

.... I think their main point, is to be able to set the die up and leave it adjusted.

Their original stated reason for being was rapid die exchanges without tools; I just use standard die lock rings to keep my dies adjusted.

I've not used pliers or pipe wrenches to cinch my dies down for more than 45 years, hand tight dies are plenty tight so wrenches need not be used on lock rings. That's why so many die makers put easily gripped knurled rings on their dies.

[Ironwrx]

Their original stated reason for being was rapid die exchanges without tools; I just use standard die lock rings to keep my dies adjusted.

I've not used pliers or pipe wrenches to cinch my dies down for more than 45 years, hand tight dies are plenty tight so wrenches need not be used on lock rings. That's why so many die makers put easily gripped knurled rings on their dies.

Good point. And (pardon my naïvety, as a new Reloader) I’m guessing that if you take out, and reinstall the dies by gripping the lock ring instead of the die body, then the setting adjustment will remain intact?


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[1hole]

I’m guessing that if you take out, and reinstall the dies by gripping the lock ring instead of the die body, then the setting adjustment will remain intact?

You've talking about Lee's "O" ring system and you've got me there, it depends. Yeah, gripping Lee's rings instead of the die body works good but you have to be careful when you do it; fat fingered guys like me can easily mess that up.

BUT, we aren't working to B.R. tolerances and it's so easy and fast to reset Lee dies that may have slipped a bit that I just don't worry about it. All other die brands have some way to firmly clamp the lock rings in place.

[1hole]

FWIW - I use the spartan for smaller cartridges and primer seating. Parts can still be found for them, which is a big plus. I really like it.

Good point. And Lyman's Spartan/Spar-T presses had a brass tube auto feeder for primers that worked right all the time, unlike the cheeper copy cat alum tube feeders big green marketed.

[Sasquatch-1]

I have to say +1 on the "don't get rid of a good press". If you have a dedicated loading room and don't want to set up all three...mount a shelf near the ceiling but low enough to accommodate the tallest press and use them for decorations.

[Mal Paso]

Good point. And (pardon my naïvety, as a new Reloader) I’m guessing that if you take out, and reinstall the dies by gripping the lock ring instead of the die body, then the setting adjustment will remain intact?


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Many of the die nuts come with set screws to lock the position. Another method is to use 2 nuts tightened together to save your setting.

I bought a few set screw nuts and used the nuts from those dies to double nut the others.

[1hole]

In my OPINION, split lock rings with a clamping screw like those Forster/Hornady use are by far the best ring design. They lock positive but total release is easy and they can't jack up the die body threads like stupid (cheep) set screws do; what's not to love?

[richhodg66]

Actually you are 1/2 right. The Texan HANDLE is aluminum alloy. The rest is cast iron and heavy at that (even with the alloy handle, it weighs in a pound heavier than the Spartan). Maybe this is an early Texan being that it is cast iron. I do think I’ll end up keeping all the presses for the time being so I can leave some set up for priming /hardness testing etc.


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I'm not familar with Texan presses, but what do you suppose was their reasoning making it with an aluminum handle? Seems like besides being the weak point in the whole thing, it would also have been the easiest part to make with just a piece of steel round bar stock like the other two presses. Odd.

It is a cool old press, though, and I fully agree with the consensus to keep all three. But then, I have a bunch of old single stage presses, they seem to follow me home like stray puppies.

[Ironwrx]

I'm not familar with Texan presses, but what do you suppose was their reasoning making it with an aluminum handle? Seems like besides being the weak point in the whole thing, it would also have been the easiest part to make with just a piece of steel round bar stock like the other two presses. Odd.

It is a cool old press, though, and I fully agree with the consensus to keep all three. But then, I have a bunch of old single stage presses, they seem to follow me home like stray puppies.

One feature that seems to be prominent on this press is that the handle is offset to the right (presumably to open the working parts up to better access). I’m guessing it is less expensive to cast aluminum parts than cast Iron and for general purpose reloading work. It is probably easier to cast an offset arm than to forge a steel one in that shape.


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[1hole]

I'm not familar with Texan presses, but what do you suppose was their reasoning making it with an aluminum handle? Seems like besides being the weak point in the whole thing, it would also have been the easiest part to make with just a piece of steel round bar stock like the other two presses. Odd.

Pound for pound, aluminum is said to be stronger than steel. That press arm is quite beefy, I doubt it's much of a weak point.

[hoodat]

Don't forget that the Rock Chuck press has the removable bushing/nut, that allows you to use larger dies for bullet swagging and such. With bushing removed, you've got 1 1/4" threads to use for whatever. I think one of the original selling points for that press was as a bullet swagging unit.

That bushing can also be removed to install the RCBS Piggyback Progressive unit. (a Rube Goldberg version of progressive loading)

If you have a moral or psychological problem with "Big Green", you can always special order the "RCBS Yaller Series" press. :roll:jd

285619

[Pressman]

I have a moral or psychological problem with "Big Yellow", what my eyes have seen cannot be unseen. [smilie=6:

[richhodg66]

Agreed. That just looks weird.

[Ironwrx]

I have a moral or psychological problem with "Big Yellow", what my eyes have seen cannot be unseen. [smilie=6:

Yes, but you must admit, it would fit in with the grader, payloader, and bulldozer when you’re on the job site doing reloading. [emoji849]


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[Ironwrx]

Agreed. That just looks weird.

I agree. It def. needs a yellow handle grip.


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[hoodat]

Yes, but you must admit, it would fit in with the grader, payloader, and bulldozer when you’re on the job site doing reloading. [emoji849]


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285670 285671

That's what happens when I've got a bead blaster and a can of yellow equipment enamel.

I've got three or four of those RCBS Reloader Specials that I picked up for next to nuthin, and I'm thinking of making one red, and one blue. Then I could put a note in each die box saying which press they're adjusted for. I'll have to see what I can do about the hand grip.:roll: jd

[Ironwrx]

285670 285671

That's what happens when I've got a bead blaster and a can of yellow equipment enamel.

I've got three or four of those RCBS Reloader Specials that I picked up for next to nuthin, and I'm thinking of making one red, and one blue. Then I could put a note in each die box saying which press they're adjusted for. I'll have to see what I can do about the hand grip.:roll: jd

I was just foolin’. I actually think it looks great.


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[myg30]

After the beed blast, what about a clear coat ?

Might start a new trend of “No Color presses” !

Mike

[jetinteriorguy]

In my OPINION, split lock rings with a clamping screw like those Forster/Hornady use are by far the best ring design. They lock positive but total release is easy and they can't jack up the die body threads like stupid (cheep) set screws do; what's not to love?
One way not to mess up the threads with set screws is to remove the set screw put in a couple #8 lead BB’s and replace the screw. This way the steel screw never contacts the die threads but holds its setting.

[Wayne Smith]

One way not to mess up the threads with set screws is to remove the set screw put in a couple #8 lead BB’s and replace the screw. This way the steel screw never contacts the die threads but holds its setting.

Yeah, but it also smears lead into the threads, rendering the the threads tight and the ring very hard to move. I prefer a small piece of copper from an electrical line.

[jmorris]

Now, I want some opinions on whether to keep the Spartan, or the Texan.


Keep them both, your not going to make much selling either and you will never 2nd guess your decision.

[1hole]

Yeah, but it also smears lead into the threads, rendering the the threads tight and the ring very hard to move. I prefer a small piece of copper from an electrical line.

There it is; use bits of copper, NOT lead or plastic, under a lousy set screw. But, even that's only a way to reduce the stupid set screw issue, it sure doesn't eliminate it!

[jetinteriorguy]

Yeah, but it also smears lead into the threads, rendering the the threads tight and the ring very hard to move. I prefer a small piece of copper from an electrical line.

This is so true, I like the idea of a piece of copper wire. Just goes to show, if you’re paying attention you learn something new every day. Although for me I only use those rings on a couple of pistol sizing dies that are kept with their own shell holders so no need to ever adjust them. But at least I can dig out the unused ones now and find a place for them. Thanks for the tip.