Lyman Star hybrid.

[mto7464]

Has anyone tried using a lyman 450 sizer like a star? Take off the bottom push rod assembly and the internal rod of the die. Use a modified top punch that contacts the top of the sizing die at the desired depth. Put them in nose first, pull the handle down until the TP contacts the die and rotate the rachet handle. Put your next one in and so on. Any reason this would not work? You might have to plug some holes in your sizing dies but I don't see why not.

[Bullshop]

It can work the problem is that you will have to let the pressure completely off between boolits being pushed into the exact position to be lubed. Otherwise you will have a lube mess conecting your boolits.
The Lyman or RCBS can be used to size nose first this way but trying to lube this way is a major pain.
BIC/BS

[ktw]

I have done it a couple of times, but only in the case where I wanted to size nose first for bullet alignment reasons (rifle boolits) and didn't have the right size Lee or star sizer die. It works ok. It's easier to use a star or lee die.

It wasn't an original idea. I seem to recall Bullshop mentioning this technique at some point.

-ktw

[DAFzipper]

If you must you can size nose first then lube base first. Takes twice as long.

[TAWILDCATT]

look at my posts on lyman lube conversions above.I will see when I order.
:coffee: [smilie=1:

[mto7464]

I didn't think about the lube pressure. Oh well I have a STAR anyway it was just a thought.

[lathesmith]

For the Star to function properly, the pump rod must be adjusted to be activated only at the bottom of the handle stroke. Other sizers lack the pump feature, this is the key to fast and mess-free lubing AND sizing.
lathesmith

[HeavyMetal]

I used an old Lyman 45 sizer in just that manner before I bought my first Star!

Blocked off all but one ring of holes and cut a "punch" to position the lube groove on the holes.

Early on I realized that I did not need to strangle the rachet to get lube in the grooves and, with a small learning curve, got to the point that I nose sized and lubed a lot of boolits without the mess once I developed the "touch".

However I will admit the "touch" came and went during production but I was sucsessfull enough that I was able to justifiy buying the already mentioned Star!

This experience also taught me that nose sized boolits were more accurate than base sized!

After I bought the Star I also made the move to much harder lubes and realized the lyman "conversion" was doomed if I had to put a heater on it.

The old Lyman then became a doorstop until I sold it here last year, to Madcaster If I remember right, whom I belive has been happy with it!.

If your wanting to try this it's as easy as you described, but lube issues will haunt you particularly if you try to use a hard lube and heater.

In the end you will follow my footsteps and realize how much faster pushing through and dropping out the bottom can be with a sizer and you will buy a Star!

[NSP64]

I prefer the much faster method of pushing them nose first through my Lee sizer, Squirting some LLA on them and walking away.:drinks:

[DLCTEX]

You could drill through the base at the point level with the channel for the lube between the reservior and the size die and insert a shuttle valve to stop and start the flow of lube to the die.

[mto7464]

Dale, its funny, you take the C off your last name and your name is the same as the Korean WAr Vet buddy of mine that got me into casting, Dale Lawson.

[The Nyack Kid]

I do the same thing with my saeco sizer when :
I need to size before heat-treating
and for nose-sizing long-skinny rifle boolits .
It works , it is slow , having to size twice , but it works .