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MarkK
06-13-2021, 01:02 PM
I think this is an older 600 Junior? Can someone verify before I go look for parts? A bit rough but cheap. Missing (and looking) for a few parts to bring it back to life; drop tube, 12 ga sizing ring, primer pad and spring and? Thanks in advance!284461284462

rking22
06-13-2021, 01:07 PM
Yep 600jr, when they still had steel dies too! You will need the lock ring for the sizer ring as well. Make sure you have the pre crimp starter that you want,, 8 or 6, they are no longer available. If not get the spindex plastic die conversion for crimp starting. And some extra wad guide fingers.

MOA
06-13-2021, 01:11 PM
Looks like a MK-5. 600 Jr. in 12 gauge. Talk to the people at MEC. They have parts that should fit. Should be marking on the red base plate. Be sure to download the manual that's free online. It'll help identify missing parts by name and parts number.

BE SURE TO SAVE ALL YOUR OLDER PARTS ON THE PRESS. DONT THROW ANY AWAY.
The steel pre-crimp and final crimp are hard if not impossible to find. The original metal rings for the inside of pre-crimp that do the 6 or 8 point crimping IMHO are better than the plastic replacement parts so hold on to them and keep them in good condition.

MOA
06-13-2021, 01:23 PM
I think this is an older 600 Junior? Can someone verify before I go look for parts? A bit rough but cheap. Missing (and looking) for a few parts to bring it back to life; drop tube, 12 ga sizing ring, primer pad and spring and? Thanks in advance!284461284462




https://www.mecoutdoors.com/Content/documents/600jr.pdf


This should help.

MarkK
06-13-2021, 02:45 PM
Thanks for all the info guys! I’ve got her striped down and most of the heavier rust off; will sand blast the rest and re-blue/paint. With regards to other gauges (i.e., 16 and 20), will I need to buy separate sets of dies or can I get away with some of the 12 ga pieces?

W.R.Buchanan
06-13-2021, 04:35 PM
This is a perfect example of how reloading tools get left in a garage and go to pot. Glad to hear you are doing a complete refurbish. The machine is made of steel so what you are doing will yield a decent machine when done.

Hot Tip: Mount it to a piece of 3/4" Plywood or an Aluminum Plate and store it in a Cabinet when not in use, or at least keep it covered with a Plastic Trash Bag. It will stay nice longer that way.

Randy

rking22
06-13-2021, 05:44 PM
I used to leave the 20 ga deprime head, drop tube, and primer seater on mine for 12,16, and 20. Everything comes in the gage specific die kit but that was less stuff to change. I found other used 600s for cheap pretty often so have a full set now. Trying to convert a 9000 from 20 to 16 presently, going to be much more “interesting” than a 600, what was I thinking. Oh yeah, the 20 ga 9000 was free....

MOA
06-13-2021, 06:55 PM
I initially went that route back in 1981 after getting my first 600 in 12 gauge. Bought the 10 gauge dies an then the 16 and swapped them out. A real PITA. Save yourself time, frustration, and money. Keep your eyes out for more 600 Jr's in those gauges you shoot/want.

MarkK
06-13-2021, 09:22 PM
Unless there is a trick, it looks like I need to tap in or out the roll pin in the column to remove the wad gauge bracket. Correct?

Also, my dies are set up for 8 point crimp. What are my options for doing 6 point?

MOA
06-14-2021, 12:05 AM
Mark, unless you find, or come across another steel 6 point pre-crimp ring, stick with reloading 8 point crimped hulls. Don't crimp 6 point hulls with the crimp ring you have now. Your AA hulls and most target loaded factory hulls are 8 point crimps.

Your option is to order a 6 point pre-crimp die from MEC or located one from a member or Ebay maybe Amazon too.

megasupermagnum
06-14-2021, 01:56 AM
Unless there is a trick, it looks like I need to tap in or out the roll pin in the column to remove the wad gauge bracket. Correct?

Also, my dies are set up for 8 point crimp. What are my options for doing 6 point?

No, you don't have to remove the pin. It has been a few months since I did it, but I believe with the press handle down, you can pull the metal slider off and below the pin. Raise the press handle, and the wad guide/slider assembly comes out the bottom.

6pt-sika
06-14-2021, 01:59 AM
I used to leave the 20 ga deprime head, drop tube, and primer seater on mine for 12,16, and 20. Everything comes in the gage specific die kit but that was less stuff to change. I found other used 600s for cheap pretty often so have a full set now. Trying to convert a 9000 from 20 to 16 presently, going to be much more “interesting” than a 600, what was I thinking. Oh yeah, the 20 ga 9000 was free....

I bit the bullet for a 16 gauge 9000 and bought a previously owned but supposedly unused one off Fleabay for about $75 less then i could order a new one at dealer cost . All my other 9000's I've bought in used but well maintained condition . Even went so far as getting back up 9000's for the 12 and 28 gauge .

MarkK
07-20-2021, 09:59 AM
The refurb is coming along on my my pre ‘82 MEC 600 Jr. but it looks like I’m missing a critical part specifically, part number 73 (eject cam) on the exploded diagram. Spoke with MEC and they said it is no longer available and the same part on the newer models is not interchangeable. I guess I will need to keep my open eyes for another old 600 unless there is a work around?

MOA
07-20-2021, 12:57 PM
You mean part nbr. 723 correct.
Maybe one of our machinest members could make you a eject cam. You might contact MEC again to see if they would provide you with a shop drawing so you could have one fabricated.

MarkK
07-20-2021, 11:15 PM
Actually, 73. A drawing would certainly be helpful.

Markopolo
07-21-2021, 12:38 AM
you might wanna get yourself a universal charge bar for that baby.. adjustable charge and shot dropping tool.. i have them for both of my Mec's

rking22
07-21-2021, 04:07 AM
Yep, looking at your picture it’s not there. Give me a bit to look thru my spares, and general mec junk. I might have one.

Budzilla 19
07-21-2021, 06:35 AM
I have to add this to the general discussion; when you’re using a “ sand- blaster” be careful to not”blow off”the sharp edges. If you are using a blast cabinet, try to use glass beads media for your clean up on your metal surfaces, it leaves a way smoother finish, and will still have a deep enough “ profile “for your paint to adhere to! Good job on refurbishing an old press which obviously has much life left in it! Just my opinions.

rking22
07-21-2021, 06:46 PM
Sorry, I rummaged thru my two boxes but no luck. I don’t remember ever taking it off, gotta work at it to lose that! I did look at the ones on my loaders, would be reasonably easy to make one. It’s not really a high precision part, a hacksaw and file would get it done. It does have a bent offset to line up correctly.

15meter
07-21-2021, 07:10 PM
Don't have a single stage to try it on, but would the part taken off a correct vintage single stage and laid on(under?) a piece of graph paper on the copy machine yield an accurate enough drawing to make a part from?

Just old guy ramblings.......:veryconfu:veryconfu

15meter
07-21-2021, 07:23 PM
Don't have a single stage to try it on, but would the part taken off a correct vintage single stage and laid on(under?) a piece of graph paper on the copy machine yield an accurate enough drawing to make a part from?

Just old guy ramblings.......:veryconfu:veryconfu

Can't be any worse than what the military did back in the old days, the archived blueprints for the military helicopters that came out of Boeing Vertol in Philadelphia were un-dimensioned mylars. That way the Russians couldn't steal the info.

When they had to make a replacement part to keep a helicopter flying they pulled out the drawings and scaled with rulers the drawing to generate dimensions.

Made the part.

Hoped it fit. If not, juggle the dimensions made a new part. Hoped it fit. Repeat until the part fit. Destroy the dimensions.

The Russians my steal the information.

Glad I'm retired, still makes my head hurt with that kind of logic.

We actually sold a crosshair device that mounted on the CMM's we sold so they could lay the print on the granite plate of the CMM and use the machine to measure the dimensions on the print.

Way more accurate that a tape measure and rulers.

MarkK
07-25-2021, 11:05 PM
Don't have a single stage to try it on, but would the part taken off a correct vintage single stage and laid on(under?) a piece of graph paper on the copy machine yield an accurate enough drawing to make a part from?

Just old guy ramblings.......:veryconfu:veryconfu

I think that would help a lot. Is this something you can provide?

psweigle
07-26-2021, 11:15 AM
My pre 82 600jr is at my nephew's house. If you have a little time, I can, in a few days, go and measure that part for you. I may be able to remake the part as well.

MarkK
07-31-2021, 12:53 AM
I can wait. Thanks for your time. Have a good weekend.

BIGOX
07-31-2021, 11:51 AM
Hell I've got almost every old version of the mec 600 jr ever made. Even a mec Versa. Only I'll be out of state for another 3 weeks or so. I can also take measurements or If it's to difficult to have one machined. I might consider selling the part to you or maybe trading whole machines. I travel the south and east coast often. Heading to the DC area right now. PM me.
Come to think of it... Maybe WR Buchanan can assist here. I think he is a machinist and he's close to me. If he's willing and able I could give him the part to make for you.

He also makes a hand reloading press that a plan to pick up when I get back home. It will be perfect for me and my traveling situation.

15meter
08-03-2021, 07:14 AM
I think that would help a lot. Is this something you can provide?

I don't have any 600 Jr.''s left. Not sure if it is the same part as the 650's. I've got 3 650's, a 9000G and a Grabber.

If one of those is the same I could do it.

Good luck in your search.