Use adhesive for peep sight on lever rifle?

[cabezaverde]

Has anyone used adhesive to attach a peep sight to a lever gun?

I know D&T is the proper way to do this, but I want to see if I like the setup before spending the money.

[cwtebay]

I used a piece of double stick tape (wall mount variety) to hold a tang sight on a Krag sporter to see if I liked it. Worked alright, but the tape had "squish" in it so not ideal. I ended up not liking it, so put a Williams on it.

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[farmbif]

not a lever gun but I've got an antique slide action that looks like someone used some sort of glue, looks like it might be that old fashioned brown rubbery contact cement that used too come in a brown bottle with a brush. well anyway the front sight looks to be glued on place with the stuff and its held that sight solid in place for at least the 20 plus years ive been using the gun.

[Landy88]

I'm interested. I've a nice old Mauser, that I'd hate to drill; but the guns utility would increase exponentially with a peep sight versus the pretty but very limited express style sights.

If you find a good way to do it on a lever, it'll likely be very close to a way to do it on another action type.

[earlmck]

I put a Lyman receiver sight on my little Henry 22 Lever. I was going to d&t but that would just be going into a thin aluminum shell as you Henry owners know, so I used JB Weld. Been working like a champ for two years now.

[cabezaverde]

I was thinking of trying this:

284394

[Carrier]

I really enjoy shooting my 1873 Trapdoor but just can’t see those little sights anymore. I do not want to drill or molest it but being able to attach a red dot to it with an adhesive that could be removed with no damage would be something I would do.

[recumbent]

JB Weld is the way to go. Degrease everything first.

[NEKVT]

I used JB Weld to attach a Williams receiver sight and front sight base to my Krag Sporter because I didn't want to drill and tap and used that setup for more than ten years. I did have the receiver sight come off once while hunting but it was a real cold day and it fell over after I leaned it against a tree. I drilled some holes in the back of the sight to allow more grab for the J.B Weld and didn't have any more issues after but didn't let it drop again either. I have since put a Rice sight on it and had the new Criterion barrel drilled and tapped for the front base.

[cabezaverde]

How do you guys make sure it is aligned properly before adhesive?

[NEKVT]

You don't say what sight you are thinking of mounting on what rifle but for the Williams receiver sight on the Krag it is a specific model for this rifle so only goes in one location with little play. I just aligned it so the eyepiece bar was in the proper position. The front sight base was aligned by sight.

[cabezaverde]

Williams 94/36 on a .357 Rossi 92.

[JoeJames]

Williams 94/36 on a .357 Rossi 92.Ok, you now have my attention. I have a Rossi R92 in 44 Magnum and a Williams 94/36. Had both for about a year, but not sure I trust my gunsmith not to pecker it up. If it works, PM me and let me know. Thinking that the easy way to verify alignment would be to line up peep with front sight and existing rear sight.

[NEKVT]

I would think that sight on the M92 you would want it to be in a similar location as on the M94 it was designed for. Google that sight on a Win M94 and you will see examples of the placement. I have the Williams FP on my Marlin 1894 and it lines up about 1/16" from the top receiver edge but pictures of the FP on the M94 show it a bit higher. You just want it with the eyepiece bar bottomed out to sufficiently clear the bolt and with the windage adjustment set in the middle for the eyepiece to be somewhat aligned with the existing sights. Many receiver sights require a taller front sight blade to get normal adjustment range.

[ndnchf]

Ive read of people using Loctite Black Max for this purpose. Maybe try searching the forum for it.

[Jedman]

284435This is a antique H. Piper marksman rimfire rifle that I added the receiver sight to with a small plate with two tapped mounting holes with J B Weld epoxy. So far no problems, if I choose to remove it there wount be any holes in the receiver.

Jedman

[Hick]

I have used superglue. Doesn't last forever, but it is a good way to test out the sight before getting more serious.

[country gent]

I used locktite super glue to mount and test an early tasco pro point ( had the battery housing on the side) on a ruger mark 2 shoat it some and zeroed it up. I then transferred the holes with a transfer punch and drilled and tapped. As far as I know the glue is still holding the weaver blocks.

Mount the fire arm up solid and level it up then level the bases and mark glue and set level. With super glue you have a very short working time. Epoxy gives a longer working time. small spring clamps work well and dont push all the glue out of the joint. If this is a side mount then level needs to be front to back and side to side. If its out front to back then the appeture wont be round or you wont see thru it

[JSnover]

Whatever you use, make sure there is a good solvent available in case you decide to take it off later. I turned down an old H&R 12 gage because someone had mounted some type of rear sight with some sort of glue and then removed it with some sort of grinder.

[earlmck]

Ok, you now have my attention. I have a Rossi R92 in 44 Magnum and a Williams 94/36. Had both for about a year, but not sure I trust my gunsmith not to pecker it up. If it works, PM me and let me know. Thinking that the easy way to verify alignment would be to line up peep with front sight and existing rear sight.

That is the correct sight for the Rossi; lining it up will not be a problem because you just attach it flat against the left side of the receiver and there is plenty of windage adjustment to get sighted in. You do want it reasonably close to level, and as far back as you can get it without blocking the little safety lever thingy (assuming you have the model of Rossi that has that and that you haven't removed it). If you have removed the little safety thingy you can mount your sight back a scosh farther if you want...

[JoeJames]

That is the correct sight for the Rossi; lining it up will not be a problem because you just attach it flat against the left side of the receiver and there is plenty of windage adjustment to get sighted in. You do want it reasonably close to level, and as far back as you can get it without blocking the little safety lever thingy (assuming you have the model of Rossi that has that and that you haven't removed it). If you have removed the little safety thingy you can mount your sight back a scosh farther if you want...I did a bit of research before I got the Williams sight. And dry fitted it. Hate to admit it but my old eyes, and the existing buckhorn rear sight do not work well anymore. Using an adhesive may allow me to see how it shoots and how well I can see with the Williams before drilling and tapping. I am not unacquainted with peep sights; as I was on my college’s varsity rifle team back in ‘69-‘71.

[dverna]

I have used a product called Goop to adhere temporary ribs to trap shotguns.

[sixgunner452]

Sir, I have used the Black Max t affix a front sight to a rifle barrel. Works Great. Randy.

[Hdskip]

The Black Max will do it. I used a lot of it in industry

[gwpercle]

For metal to metal, use a good two part epoxy , slow setting and slow curing .
I still like J-B Weld 8265 S Original Cold Weld steel reinforced epoxy , dark grey color and 24 hour full cure time . Follow cleaning & prep directions carefully .
5 minute , quick setting epoxies are not the strongest ... use the slow cure for max strength .
Gary

[ipopum]

I have used Brownell glass bed to mount a rear sight on a 22rf. That was 2 or 3 years ago. It has not moved.

[LAGS]

I have often Crazy Glued Iron Sights including front and rear to the barrels of rifles.
I do that so that I can check alignment of the sights before I drill and tap them.
This allows me to make final minor adjustments to the sights so when all done , the sights are usually set to zero at 100 yards.
Epoxy works too.
It is just that you wait to let it cure.
With the crazy glue , I can pull off a sight and relocate it and reinstall it when I am at the range with out taking up lots of time.

[JoeJames]

The Black Max will do it. I used a lot of it in industryIt begs the question: once you have stuck it on there with Black Max, and then decided it was the perfect location, but you want to then drill and tap it in; how do you remove it? Heat or a solvent?

[cabezaverde]

Reviving this old thread for other thoughts.

[cwtebay]

I recently had an epiphany about sights (particularly optical sights). I went to my first ever optometrist's appointment. He and I got to jabbering, he enjoys sporting clays and he and I had met up a time or two. I asked him if he could help with measurements for optics/ peep / tang / open sights. He said yes (of course) that's what he does for a living!!
Long story short, given a distance (i.e. eyeball to tang sight) with an objective point (i.e. front sight or target or even both given the right circumstance), any good optometrist should be able to help one choose the appropriate sight. I asked him about a carbine project of mine, he spit out my ideal magnification and distance from my eye that should be ideal. After a bit of research, I turned a gift card into the appropriate optic and I have to say - man knows his stuff! His precision of distance was amazing.
We're supposed to meet up next week so he can try out my shot casting rig, I'm looking forward to his opinion and thoughts on the various sights I have - and more specifically my ability to be able to effectively use those sights for 40 or so years to come!

My thoughts are that with the price of quality made sights, why not make sure my eyes will be able to use them before making that investment!
(Including semi- permanently attaching them to try them out first!!)

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[stubshaft]

+1 or however many for the use of JB Weld!

[country gent]

oThe amount of surface area the sight has makes a big difference also a small blade with short narrow base not as well as a long ramp type base, fitted scope blocks that match the surface and have a lot of area will hold very well.

When its proved it self if possible I dont remove the sight or bases. but use a good fitting transfer punch to mark then spot drill and drill and tap thru the base or block. A lot of small shops use super glue for one offs. Fixture in a tube.

[Czech_too]

On a 1894CL Marlin which will see infrequent use & only off of a bench, red Loctite.
Taped off the surrounding area, in case of squeeze out, and the Loctite along with the longer tang screw has held up, so far.
Double sided tape had to much of a rocking motion, side to side.

[country gent]

Thee are several types if double faced tape available. What is sold in the local stores is more for carpet with a spongy core that does give. Then there are some "scotch" tape style that are firmed but not enough adhesive meant more for craft use. 3M makes one that is industrial use a very firm core and very strong adhesive. This is the one you want. Here like the glues surface prep and area make a big difference. At work we used this to machine thin fine parts both in the mill and surface grinder. It is tenacious stuff It would take awhile soaking in thinner to break down and release the part.

[cabezaverde]

Thee are several types if double faced tape available. What is sold in the local stores is more for carpet with a spongy core that does give. Then there are some "scotch" tape style that are firmed but not enough adhesive meant more for craft use. 3M makes one that is industrial use a very firm core and very strong adhesive. This is the one you want. Here like the glues surface prep and area make a big difference. At work we used this to machine thin fine parts both in the mill and surface grinder. It is tenacious stuff It would take awhile soaking in thinner to break down and release the part.

Any idea on the 3M number?

[country gent]

I cant remember it when we needed it we got it from the crib when done it was returned. Wish I had some here now for out in the shop.

[pietro]

I'm interested. I've a nice old Mauser, that I'd hate to drill; but the guns utility would increase exponentially with a peep sight versus the pretty but very limited express style sights.

If you find a good way to do it on a lever, it'll likely be very close to a way to do it on another action type.

Williams Gun Sight Co. once made a drop-in Mauser peep sight that interchanges with the top section of the military rear sight.

The Williams WM-96 PEEP : https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006000848

If interested, I would suggest calling Williams customer service to see if they can a dig up an NOS unit for you.

.

[GregLaROCHE]

Consider using the product used to glue rear view mirrors to windshields. It’s designed to stick to a hard smooth surface. Most glues and epoxies recommend roughing up the mating surfaces. You probably wouldn’t want to do that, if you may be removing it.

[cabezaverde]

Consider using the product used to glue rear view mirrors to windshields. It’s designed to stick to a hard smooth surface. Most glues and epoxies recommend roughing up the mating surfaces. You probably wouldn’t want to do that, if you may be removing it.

I think this might be the answer.

[gordie]

maybe this tape ?

3-M VHB

[JLF]

Cyano cm1

[cabezaverde]

Cyano cm1

Nothing comes up when I search the web for this.

[cabezaverde]

Consider using the product used to glue rear view mirrors to windshields. It’s designed to stick to a hard smooth surface. Most glues and epoxies recommend roughing up the mating surfaces. You probably wouldn’t want to do that, if you may be removing it.

Wow, this is an old thread. Good call Greg.

Loctite makes a kit for reattaching your mirror which is certainly heavier than an aluminum peep sight. I mounted the sight (finally) the other day and it seems quite sturdy. Will advise if I run into any problems when U get to the range.

[indian joe]

Has anyone used adhesive to attach a peep sight to a lever gun?

I know D&T is the proper way to do this, but I want to see if I like the setup before spending the money.

If you just want to mount the sight to see if you like it or not --I would use hot melt glue, it wont last but will clean off easily -----something like JB Weld for a permanent job

I fixed a stuffed crankcase gasket in my huskvarna mower (30 hp B & S Motor) - cleaned it, filled the crack with a mix of cheap super glue and bicarb soda, then applied J B Weld over the top - that stuff sticks pretty good!

[pietro]

Williams 94/36 on a .357 Rossi 92.


Winchester 94's and Wincher 92's had identical sights as issued from the factory, ergo the same designated sight will fit clone Model 92's - some of which, like the Browning 92 will need a D/T for the receiver sight, along with a front sight taller than the issue front sight blade (to achieve zero).

BTW, around 1970, I epoxied sights on several of my friend's 12ga shotguns (for deer hunting in our shotgun-only state) - and AFAIK they are still using them for hunting w/o any issues, like coming loose.

[fastdadio]

I glued a 2 3/4" picatinny rail forward of the rear sight on my Hawken. I used the Loctite 380. Worked great and can be removed with moderate heat leaving no trace, which I did do once. I mounted a red dot reflex type sight on it and it works great.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Loctite 380 Black Max will work as will JB Weld. JB Weld is easier to get and easier to use. Loctite 380 is a 'super glue' that sets very quickly and is much more expensive than JB Weld. Brownell's Acra-Glas will also work but is a little harder to mix properly. Acraglas Gel and Acraglas Steel mix easier and should work too.

[fastdadio]

Loctite 380 Black Max will work as will JB Weld. JB Weld is easier to get and easier to use. Loctite 380 is a 'super glue' that sets very quickly and is much more expensive than JB Weld. Brownell's Acra-Glas will also work but is a little harder to mix properly. Acraglas Gel and Acraglas Steel mix easier and should work too.

This is true for the most part. The important thing to me when gluing a sight base to my Hawken was that it be reversable as in not permanent. When I set my base the first time it was too far off. I was able to remove it with a heat gun and clean the barrel of all residue with no sign of it having ever been there. JB Weld is wicked stuff. Try getting that off your barrel and you will do damage. As far as the cost and availability, it's easily found on line and only cost a few dollars more over other types of adhesives. Black Max 380 is a specialty product intended for this type of use. I would think if you value your firearm, the extra cost is minimal and meaningless in the long run.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I've used JB Weld quite for bedding scope mount bases and bedding receiver sights. For bedding sights and receivers, I use paste wax on the gun and screws. It comes off with heat. I use a propane torch but with care, even with aluminum sights and bases, getting JB Weld off is not particularly difficult. I have reused aluminum scope mount bases bedded with JB Weld, a torch simply burns the JB Weld into char to be wiped of the metal.

[elmacgyver0]

Alien tape?

[gloob]

I've used JB Weld quite for bedding scope mount bases and bedding receiver sights. For bedding sights and receivers, I use paste wax on the gun and screws. It comes off with heat. I use a propane torch but with care, even with aluminum sights and bases, getting JB Weld off is not particularly difficult. I have reused aluminum scope mount bases bedded with JB Weld, a torch simply burns the JB Weld into char to be wiped of the metal.

I would like to try this to bed a scope rail, but I don't have the screws. Rifle has the threaded holes, already. Should the screws be #6-48?

Any tips on how to get 4 of these screws on the cheap, other than having some leftover because you buy the wrong size of mount all the time?

[cabezaverde]

Wow, this is an old thread. Good call Greg.

Loctite makes a kit for reattaching your mirror which is certainly heavier than an aluminum peep sight. I mounted the sight (finally) the other day and it seems quite sturdy. Will advise if I run into any problems when U get to the range.

Update to this old thread. The Loctite kit and adhesive did not work out.

[Mk42gunner]

I must have missed this thread over the past few years, somehow. Anyway, here is my advice:

Use a good slow cure epoxy. Most can be removed with a moderate amount of heat from a propane torch, (I have done this) maybe a heat gun (I haven't tried this).

My problem with JB Weld is that it is gray, and I have read that it is hard to color. Brownell's Acraglas Gel is ridiculously simple to color, and has become my most used firearm epoxy. I usually have some laying around and for mounting a sight, it shouldn't take more than about half a teaspoon.

I have never had the rearview mirror stuff work for its intended job, so I have never tried it for other uses.

Robert

[farmbif]

ive got a gun and the sight was temporarily attached with electrical tape wrapped good and tight. no joke it held the sight in place well enough for testing with about 20 rounds. letting it cool a bit after 2 or 3 at a time

[cabezaverde]

Another update. I bought some Gorilla tape today. Will advise on whether it works.

[Texas by God]

I put the front sight on my 44WCF single shot carbine in 2018 with JB Weld.
It’s still there.
I’m a believer.


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[elmacgyver0]

I used JB Weld to put the sights on my old double barrel I'm making into an express rifle.

[Czech_too]

On a 1894CL Marlin which will see infrequent use & only off of a bench, red Loctite.
Taped off the surrounding area, in case of squeeze out, and the Loctite along with the longer tang screw has held up, so far.
Double sided tape had to much of a rocking motion, side to side.

The red Loctite did not hold, so I would not recommend it.

[fastdadio]

The red Loctite did not hold, so I would not recommend it.

Just buy the Loctite 308 Black Max and get on with life. It's made for this type of use and gun smiths use it for a sight adhesive. Removable with heat if necessary.

[country gent]

Preparation is the key to getting good results. the area needs to be clean and properly roughed up to get the ultimate bond strength. The other area a lot mess up on is they clamp to hard and press the glue out. Not leaving enough bond thickness. A cure for this is to add a small amount of .010 grit to the epoxy this provides a bond layer of the proper thickness. I occasionally add a small amount of .010 glass beads to my JB weld. Then glue and clamp once cured it is very solid. I mix the beads to the hardener first then add color if desired and last add the hardener. this gives the most working time. The grit goes a long ways to maintaining a good strong bond.

ShamBam way lock adhesive has this grit in it. It is meant for gluing turcite on to ways and wear surfaces. It is a long cure epoxy that starts to set in an hour working dry in 24 hours full strength cure in 72 hours. Break down temp is close to 600*. I believe JB weld is around 400*

I have used some super glues and epoxies to mount and test sights and bases. once set and tested you can spot the holes drill and tap for the screws.

[cabezaverde]

Further update. I took the rifle to the range to site in today. So far the Gorilla tape is working out.

[gwpercle]

I would use the slow-cure , original , J-B Weld that cures in 16 - 24 hours ...
it develops the most shear strength and should hold the sight on untill you want to remove it . Clean both surfaces and follow directions ...
I'm a believer in the original , two-part , J-B Weld !
Gary

[MarkW]

Like others, I have had good luck using JB weld to attach a weaver rail to a 20 gauge single shot for a loaner deer gun, and it held up well for at least 10 years and was still attached when I included it in a trade. I just used an unknown rail I had floating around, nothing specialized. Nowadays I have an assortment of various laser bore sighters that I use when figuring out sights. I like the cartridge size ones but also bought a cheap arbor style kit complete with an entire set of different spuds and it was $13 on sale. At todays prices that is less than a lot of packs of 100 benchrest primers. OK just looked at ebay and some are less than $12 for an entire kit with 177 to 12 GA adapters, like eBay item number:386272868815 (no affiliation, just using as an example get whatever you want as there's a bunch of them on there, amazon, and walmart to name a few).

Anyway, a laser is a big help when figuring out where to mount the sight in addition to getting it on paper,

[fecmech]

Buy a tube of silicone gasket material. Stick the sight on with it and it will hold just fine for testing purposes. When you're done you can peel it off with your finger. I glued a Weigand scope mount on a Ruger .44 Mag with ProSeal (a 2 part aircraft caulk) to see if I wanted to go the dot sight route. Fired 2 boxes of full house Keiths, mount held fine. Pulled it off, cleaned off the ProSeal and D&T'd the mount. I have an S&W Model 34 with a piece of .22 scope rail glued on (ProSeal) holding a small tube dot sight. Been on the gun over 20yrs.