Area Prep for a Lee 4-20 Electric Bottom Pour Pot?

[VariableRecall]

I've yet to give my new Lee 4-20 Electric Bottom Pour Pot, but I believe that I have everything that I need to get started.
I've got Gulf Wax whittled with a knife into a sandwich bag as a flux, some dollar store aluminum pans from a dollar store to deposit sprues and boolits, and sacrificial towels to provide extra heat insulation for the cooling lead. I have some flat wood chunks I could use in case more insulation is needed. I also have a box fan to promote airflow out of my work area.

My work surface is most likely going to be a sturdy plastic folding table in the middle of my garage, more than 20 feet away from anything flammable.

Would this be adequate for my first cast? I now have in total about 100 lbs of lead. 60lbs hardball and 40lbs pure lead. Not enough to go crazy on it, but it's going to be enough that I won't have to worry about acquiring boolits for my loads for probably a year or so. If anything, I hope that it will allow me to get to the range more often.

The great thing is, even with the inflated prices of materials these days, I'm still paying about half-price for lead compared to manufactured cast boolits. I just have to get through the effort of doing it myself.

[Rizzo]

A good thermometer or better yet get a PID which would control the temperature of your alloy automatically.

Perhaps you are going to do this but putting the Lee Pot on top of a rectangular pan (18" x 24" or thereabouts) will catch any "drips" from the pot and will keep things neat.

A cheap (Walmart) hot plate to warm up your mold before casting would be advisable.

Perhaps a wooden stick to tap the mold if all of the bullets do not drop from your mold.

I use a paint roller pan and put an old towel over it to dump the bullets in from the mold.
And....and.......(smile).

Good luck to you on your casting. It is fun, but can also be frustrating.

[ryanmattes]

What Rizzo said, especially a thermometer.

And I'd be careful with that plastic table. A little bit of hot lead dripped on it is liable to cause some drama.

Maybe put a 2'x2' sheet of plywood or something under the pot.

Don't underestimate just how hot 650+ degree molten lead is.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[VariableRecall]

A good thermometer or better yet get a PID which would control the temperature of your alloy automatically.

Perhaps you are going to do this but putting the Lee Pot on top of a rectangular pan (18" x 24" or thereabouts) will catch any "drips" from the pot and will keep things neat.

A cheap (Walmart) hot plate to warm up your mold before casting would be advisable.

Good luck to you on your casting. It is fun, but can also be frustrating.

I do have a rubber mallet for bonking the sprue plate loose, and I'm planning on getting more of those shallow rectangular pans from Dollar General since they are cheap and I can always grab more if I need them.

I don't have a spare hot plate, but all but one of my molds are made of aluminum, so they should be able to change temperatures fairly quickly.

I don't have a Thermometer or PID, so I guess I'll just have to play by eye, which is not exactly ideal. Got any leads on a cheap, generally accurate one?

[VariableRecall]

What Rizzo said, especially a thermometer.

And I'd be careful with that plastic table. A little bit of hot lead dripped on it is liable to cause some drama.

Maybe put a 2'x2' sheet of plywood or something under the pot.

Don't underestimate just how hot 650+ degree molten lead is.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

The table is question is one of those Champion Folding tables, something like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091D2R8ZJ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=0c3a171e4abaf271df44b12eb1b0946c&hsa_cr_id=1288599840601&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=b10e6882-e645-4129-ba94-003d933bb5eb&pd_rd_w=Cj4VI&pd_rd_wg=lV7XE&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_img

I don't think it's very Lead droplet friendly, so I'll have to make sure that nothing bad happens.

[rancher1913]

I set my whole pot in a cake pan so that if it ever "dumps" its contained, use the same pan for sprues.

[tazman]

I use a large aluminum cookie sheet that has edges 1/2" high. It has contained all the leaks and small dumps in the last 20 years.
Sometimes while heating, the valve at the bottom will start dripping. It may drip slowly or much more quickly. Always a good idea to have a pan of some sort under the pot to contain this.
I would also suggest a folded towel underneath the pan to protect the table from the heat of a "dump".

[gwpercle]

Let me suggest placing an old pizza pan under your pot . If the pot drips everything will be contained in the pan and you have a place to lay hot moulds and stirring/skimming spoons .
It needs to have a 1" side . Mine is like the New Star Foodservice #51032 pizza pan , baking tray , coupe style ...it is 14 1/2" in diameter and 1" deep ... the 1" sides are the important part .
I had the pot heating , was looking through some moulds ...and all the lead leaked out , but the deep dish aluminum pan caught everything .
I think this "coupe" style of pan might mean it has sides or is deep dish .
Look at the ones on Amazon , they run from small 8" dia. to a large 20" dia. , measure your pot base area and add at least 4" or 5" . My pot is a Lee Magnum Melter and 14 " pan works fine... but a 16" wouldn't hurt . I bought mine years ago at some discount store .
The metal pan might help protect your table top from drips and spatters that sometimes happen .
Gary

[Conditor22]

I've yet to give my new Lee 4-20 Electric Bottom Pour Pot, but I believe that I have everything that I need to get started.
I've got Gulf Wax whittled with a knife into a sandwich bag as a flux, some dollar store aluminum pans from a dollar store to deposit sprues and boolits, and sacrificial towels to provide extra heat insulation for the cooling lead. I have some flat wood chunks I could use in case more insulation is needed. I also have a box fan to promote airflow out of my work area.

My work surface is most likely going to be a sturdy plastic folding table in the middle of my garage, more than 20 feet away from anything flammable.

Would this be adequate for my first cast? I now have in total about 100 lbs of lead. 60lbs hardball and 40lbs pure lead. Not enough to go crazy on it, but it's going to be enough that I won't have to worry about acquiring boolits for my loads for probably a year or so. If anything, I hope that it will allow me to get to the range more often.

The great thing is, even with the inflated prices of materials these days, I'm still paying about half-price for lead compared to manufactured cast boolits. I just have to get through the effort of doing it myself.

1) Safety glasses
2) Jeans and shoes that fit in the jeans (clothing needs to be cotton or leather)
3) lightweight leather gloves
4) Make sure your pot can't get tipped over on you or someone (people recommend clamping your pot to the work surface)
5) make sure your towel is 100% cotton hot lead will melt blends (I use a cotton towel in a sheet pan to drop my boolits on) my pot is in a smaller sheet pan.
6) make sure your mold is clean of ALL oils most of the time dawn and a toothbrush get it done but occasionally acetone/brake cleaner/carb cleaner is needed

when you put wax (for fluxing) in your pot be prepared for it to burst into flame (don't jerk and knock your pot over) Fluxing will generate a lot of smoke, Put the fan so it sucks the smoke instead of blows it otherwise you will cool the spout and it will freeze up on you :(

there is a lot to be said about controlling the temperature or even knowing what the temperature is.

You can dip the corner of aluminum molds in the lead until the lead doesn't stick to warm them up.

Make sure you lube the mold synthetic 2-stroke oil fuel additive works great, a little bottle will last a lifetime (and keep the lube out of the cavities)

[slim1836]

Please make sure your lead is clean, dirt will foul the spout. Keep an "L" shaped sturdy wire (I use #12 copper) to clear the spout with the help of needle nosed plyers. I added weight to the handle to help apply downward pressure, helps seal the spout. Temp control helps to alleviate temp issues, the lower the melt is in the pot, the hotter it gets. Take it easy and eliminate issues one step at a time.

And please wear protective clothing and eyewear.

Slim

[VariableRecall]

Please make sure your lead is clean, dirt will foul the spout. Keep an "L" shaped sturdy wire (I use #12 copper) to clear the spout with the help of needle nosed plyers. I added weight to the handle to help apply downward pressure, helps seal the spout. Temp control helps to alleviate temp issues, the lower the melt is in the pot, the hotter it gets. Take it easy and eliminate issues one step at a time.

And please wear protective clothing and eyewear.

Slim

I plan on it! I've got safety glasses and medium thickness leather gloves. I'm thinking one of those face shields might be useful too.

[kevin c]

I'd also suggest a couple pairs of pliers: a needle nose set for picking up hot sprues and rejects, and a stronger set, maybe even vice grips, for heavier items like hot ingots and ingot (NOT boolit!) molds.

For spill containment, a half or full sized hotel sheet pan with a 1" all around lip works, sometimes found cheap in thrift stores. Even cheaper is a small oil leak tray, the type put under cars to protect garage floors.

[Gtek]

No animals, kids, or unnecessary movement around the area with ventilation and focus on your pot of lava.

[VariableRecall]

I'd also suggest a couple pairs of pliers: a needle nose set for picking up hot sprues and rejects, and a stronger set, maybe even vice grips, for heavier items like hot ingots and ingot (NOT boolit!) molds.

For spill containment, a half or full sized hotel sheet pan with a 1" all around lip works, sometimes found cheap in thrift stores. Even cheaper is a small oil leak tray, the type put under cars to protect garage floors.

I do have ingot molds, but no handles on them, so most likely vice grips will have to do there. I've got needle-nose pliers as well. All that remains is a good time window (and patience from my folks) and I can replenish my boolit supplies.

[45-70 Chevroner]

I would suggest putting a sheet of 1/2" plywood or (OSB)to cover the entire plastic table top. A good Terry cloth towel folded to drop your hot boolits on and to let cool. I'm not sure what you are trying to insulate unless you are trying to protect the plastic table, a folded towel will do that by it's self. The plywood will protect the entire table top. It will take you a short time to learn the does and don'ts. Experience is the best teacher.

[Polymath]

My 2 cents, No distractions, no booze, no food. Tie up your power cord to prevent tripping over it.
Have fun and report how it went.

[StuBach]

I plan on it! I've got safety glasses and medium thickness leather gloves. I'm thinking one of those face shields might be useful too.

Highly advise the face shield. My first melt the tinsel fairy paid me a visit and if I didn’t have a scruffy beard I’d be wearing a scar today. Worn a face shield ever since.

Also advise a respirator if you have one. By no means required but helps keep you from breathing those toxic fumes. I’ve been casting for years now and never had a blood test above 0 on the lead blood scale (I request they run it every time I have a physical just to be on the safe side) partially thanks to respirator.


Have fun, post photos of what your setup and your results look like.

[45-70 Chevroner]

This is not a slam aginst anyone. I have been casting for 50 years and have never worn a respirator and my blood lead level always comes up 0. At the temps we cast at you will never have lead particle in the air. If you are worried about it a simple shop mask will do. As far as nasty smelling fumes are concerned a fan behind you will keep it away.

[Scrounge]

The table is question is one of those Champion Folding tables, something like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091D2R8ZJ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=0c3a171e4abaf271df44b12eb1b0946c&hsa_cr_id=1288599840601&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=b10e6882-e645-4129-ba94-003d933bb5eb&pd_rd_w=Cj4VI&pd_rd_wg=lV7XE&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_img

I don't think it's very Lead droplet friendly, so I'll have to make sure that nothing bad happens.

YMMV, but I would not put anything with molten metal in it on a plastic table like that. I've got several, here, and have worn out a few more. One thing you can count on, some day, something is going to go wrong, and you WILL get molten lead spilling onto that table. Murphy is alive and well, and he wants to come see you! Do not give him a chance to show you the error of your ways!

Bill

[GregLaROCHE]

There’s been a lot of good advice posted. I would add that I always flux the alloy with sawdust first and then wax. A respirator is the most safe, but if you are outside make sure the breeze is blowing the fumes away from you and maybe consider a fan. I’ve been casting for a few years now and still don’t have a thermometer. I heat the alloy until the boolits start to frost and then turn down the pot some. I would like to have a PID, but it hasn’t worked it’s way to the top of my wish list yet. Don’t forget that lead gets heavy fast and be sure your table can take the weight.

Good luck! I’m sure you will have fun. If you have any questions, this is a great place to ask them.

[guy_with_boolits]

get a hot plate to preheat and maintain your mold heat

you will wish you did

$15 from amazon

get a thermocouple to measure lead temperature or a PID control....lead temperature is a critical process control and the LEE dial is not precise or reliable

do not "dip the corner of the mold" into the pot as you may have seen suggested, this is a bad idea for multiple reasons (getting junk into the mold, including lead, being dangerous to do in a small pot, not heating the mold up enough, stirring up junk in the pot which will clog it, etc..etc..)

most of the middle of the sprue should remain liquid for a few seconds after you are done pouring..and thats the WHOLE sprue, not just the cavity furthest from the handle

check your lead smearing both on the underside of the sprue plate and on top of the mold halves after EACH pour..it should be minimal if any..if you see some, clean it off before proceeding with the next pour

if you notice ALOT of lead smearing and things are very shiny, and the sprue is taking a long time to solidify, things are too hot

be prepared to clean your mold. accidents and just normal non-perfect usage will get lead in between the mold halves and this will cause problems..I use a popsicle stick and strangely it works to push lead off the mold. copper wool might also work.

Do not assume your tools will do the job for you, they wont. The PROCESS is the critical element here and YOU are 75% of that. The LEE pot clogs easily and has poor temperature control, the mold is easily contaminated and needs awkward lubrication and inspection after each pour, everything needs to be in a certain window of temperature to work right (or you will get wrinked bullets or smeared bullet backs), and so forth...

[dondiego]

I have cast for over 50 years and have never used a thermometer or a hardness tester. Don't know how I did it. I am thinking that a PID would be a real good idea..........but naw, I have done well so far.

[Cast10]

Plastic table......

New guy here too! I have been casting inside my shop on my reloading bench (wood). I was worried about tipping over, dripping, etc. I found an old steel shelf that’s close to 3 ft long and 24” wide with angles all around the side. Turned upside down and placed on some brick pieces on top of my wooden top, I will capture anything spilled. It also allows my tools, hot plate, etc. on the same surface, without anything rolling off, etc.

[VariableRecall]

Plastic table......

New guy here too! I have been casting inside my shop on my reloading bench (wood). I was worried about tipping over, dripping, etc. I found an old steel shelf that’s close to 3 ft long and 24” wide with angles all around the side. Turned upside down and placed on some brick pieces on top of my wooden top, I will capture anything spilled. It also allows my tools, hot plate, etc. on the same surface, without anything rolling off, etc.

I've got some cinder blocks and a 1x4 board, but that does NOT provide enough lateral stability to make me confident in doing anything with it. However, just placing scrap blocks of wood between the table and anything hot seems like a much better solution overall.

[guy_with_boolits]

I have cast for over 50 years and have never used a thermometer or a hardness tester. Don't know how I did it. I am thinking that a PID would be a real good idea..........but naw, I have done well so far.

its not that you cant its that its much easier for a beginner to sort out their problems with better process controls

now that I know my process works I could probably get rid of the PID and thermometer and just go by how the lead looks and figure out a pattern of what the knob on the pot seems to do and it would be fine

for a beginner who may trust their equipment too much its another story..the pot knob adjustment is a complete crap shoot and beginners have no idea what looks right or how hot things need to be going just by appearance..measuring it and quantifying it cuts that whole learning curve MUCH shorter

[fredj338]

I would nt use a plastic table unless you are putting plywood or something under the pot.