Gas checks???

[woodsoup]

I'm not new to reloading but I am new to "Gas Checks". I know what they are for and how to instal them. But how do you know what size to use??

:???:
I've run up on 2700 115gr (actually weigh 120+gr.) .312 dia NON-GC, cast lead bullets and want to shoot them out of my AK and SKS. what size gas check do/can I use?? I have a Lee kit for some .357 cast bullets and 35 cal gas checks. If that's any help?

Thanx, Pete.

[Calehedron]

.308-.314 bullets or 30cals use 30 cal gas checks.

[woodsoup]

.308-.314 bullets or 30cals use 30 cal gas checks.


Thanx. I see a Midway purchase in my future. :drinks:

[Bret4207]

Wait a minute- are they NON- GC boolits or GC boolit designs that still need the GC attached? Putting a GC on a plain base (PB) boolit is not commonly done and usually requires a swage die or other specialized (expensive) equipment to do. Getting an AK or SKS to cycle with an underweight PB boolit sounds like a good way to learn all about leading to me.

[Boerrancher]

It is as Brett says not commonly done to put gas checks on a plain based boolit. I have special tooling that makes gas checks to fit plain based 357 and 429 dia boolits, and then the gas checks have to be swadged on the base. I had all of this tooling specially made because I had some plain based moulds in both of these calibers that I wanted to shoot out of rifles at high velocities. If these are plain based boolits that you have, I think you are going to have to shoot them as they are. If they are a gas check design you will have to buy some 30 cal gas checks.

Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

[NSP64]

Wait a minute- are they NON- GC boolits or GC boolit designs that still need the GC attached? Putting a GC on a plain base (PB) boolit is not commonly done and usually requires a swage die or other specialized (expensive) equipment to do. Getting an AK or SKS to cycle with an underweight PB boolit sounds like a good way to learn all about leading to me.

+1:drinks:

[woodsoup]

OOPS, maybe no Midway purchase just yet. They are not bullets that are made for gas checks, they are bevel based. I got them at a garage sale today for $5.00. They are made by Mangus. 5 unopened boxes and one partial that looks to be about 200 rounds left.

So if I can't check them I guess I'll work up some pistol powder loads and work the slide by hand. How does 8-9 Gr of 231 sound for a start?

[Heavy lead]

five bucks, what a deal, even if you don't use them that's cheap for the lead.

[medicstimpy]

With the loads for 7.62x39, I wouldn't worry about having a plain base boolit over a GCed one. Your lube will be more important. You're not loading hot enough in the 7.62x39 as compared to some other calibers like .308, 8mm Mauser, etc.

For your .357 use .38 gas checks. They go by caliber, not actual size, so a .38 is actually .356-8 like the .38/.357 boolit.

[Bret4207]

OOPS, maybe no Midway purchase just yet. They are not bullets that are made for gas checks, they are bevel based. I got them at a garage sale today for $5.00. They are made by Mangus. 5 unopened boxes and one partial that looks to be about 200 rounds left.

So if I can't check them I guess I'll work up some pistol powder loads and work the slide by hand. How does 8-9 Gr of 231 sound for a start?

Aha! Glad I asked. I've never used 231 that I recall. I would have suggested 4-5.0 gr Unique to start and with 231 being faster I'd say start around 3-4.0 grains. I'd aim for grouping at the 1000-1100 fps area, at least to start. The combo of a bevel base and what is probably a "hard" alloy dictates that you start with a completely clean barrel, as in NO jacket fouling. If either gun has lots of rounds through it you throat is probably a yard long and maybe rough to boot so you may have problems no matter what.

For now I'd stick with trying to build a plinking load that works at 50 feet to 50 yards. If you can't build a satisfactory load, I'd melt them and alloy for a nice 11-14 Bhn and try the Lee SKS designs. Those are GC'd and a push trough sizer will work.