White spacers

[JLF]

On the Remington 700 BDL the cylinder head toe and pistol grip cover are glued and have internal wood or steel bolts. I consult to remove the blank spacers and change the toe and pistol grip cap.

[pietro]

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I've had several Model 700's over the years, and not one had glued-on grip caps or buttplates.

Once removed from the stock, the white line spacers are easily separated via using a single-edge razor blade on the seam, and lightly tapping the back of the razor blade.

There can be an issue with straight replacements, as the outer dimensions may have to be fitted to match the wood at their edges. (YMMV, here)

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[waksupi]

What is a cylinder head toe????

[405grain]

I'm confused. Is the cylinder head toe beside the spontaneous osmosis generator, or is it beside the left muffler nut? :-P Kidding aside, here's a hack that I used once to repair a Marlin 56. You can cut material to make a while line spacer from the lid of an ordinary white plastic 5 gallon bucket. Mark what you want to cut out with a black sharpie, then rough cut out the part with either a hacksaw or sheet metal shears. Once cut out the spacer can be shaped easily with files and sandpaper. This comes in handy when giving a rifle that late '50's through early '70's style.

[JLF]

What is a cylinder head toe????

I don't know how it translates
https://i.postimg.cc/4d3CZYHz/700bdl-01.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[pietro]

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That's the forend tip, and it's usually permanently glued to the stock with an alignment/holding peg that transits the seam/joint from the stock, into the tip.

The only way to remove it would be to cut it off at the white line....

[Gtek]

The two in rear are usually just remove. I would take a Black Sharpie/paint? to that front one and call it good, the chances for a clean removal are about zero to none.

[405grain]

Ok, this makes sense; you want to replace the forend tip and grip cap with ones that eliminate the white line spacer. The grip cap is usually, (but not always) attached with a screw. Yours may be both glued and screwed, I don't know. Try removing any screws and gently prying the grip cap off, but be careful not to damage the wood on the stock. It may just be surface finish holding the grip cap on after the screw is removed. If prying (very gently) doesn't work, the cap may be glued in place. In that case, and sense you don't want the spacer, the best approach might be to cut through the spacer to remove the grip cap. If you have to do this, the residual material from the spacer can be removed from the stock with a fine file and a sanding block.
The forend tip is a different story. As stated above, the forend tip is always pegged and glued to the stock. The only way to get it off is to cut it off. Most forend tips are pegged with one or two wooden dowels. Some custom stocks might be pegged with a metal rod, but that is rare. When you cut off the old forend tip the cut must be square and true to the stock or the new tip will be at an angle. The cut can be at 90 degrees, or at an angle, depending on your taste and how you want the new tip to look. Generally you want both the grip cap and the forend tip to be of a wood (or material) that is both harder than the stock wood and is of a pleasant appearance. There are several youtube videos on stock making, and many of them cover attaching the forend tip and grip cap. Some people use epoxy adhesives to do the attachments and others use gorilla glue. You should study some stock making videos and gather more information before attempting the replacements on your stock. You may wish to refinish the stock after the work is done as well.

[JLF]

My intention is to remove the tip of the handguard and the pistol grip cover, and put others. For this I am going to use guayacan, a hard wood from the north of my country. Also, I take the opportunity to remove the white spacers and replace them with bronze spacers.
I am very grateful for the good contributions provided.

Guayacan
https://i.postimg.cc/gkpjC6Vx/Guayacan.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[Green Frog]

That guayacon and bronze sounds very attractive. Is it (the guayacon) as dark as ebony? A problem with some of these woods is their natural oil content... with ebony for instance, many finishes won’t stick to it. Do you plan on refinishing the whole stock, and if yes, what finish material are you planning to use?

Regard,
Green Frog

[405grain]

A couple of years ago I did a forend tip and grip cap out of cocobolo on a walnut stock I carved for a Mauser. I wanted a polyurethane finish on that stock because it was for a hunting rifle, and at times it would be out in the rain. Because of the oils in cocobolo polyurethane will NEVER dry on it. But shellac will. The answer was to apply three coats of shellac to the cocobolo, then finish the stock with polyurethane. If your working with a hardwood that has oils which prevent drying with the finish of your choice, an under coat of shellac might help. There's also the possibility of a hand rubbed linseed oil finish, which might also work. Try your finish options on a small piece of scrap wood before using it on the stock.

[JLF]

That guayacon and bronze sounds very attractive. Is it (the guayacon) as dark as ebony? A problem with some of these woods is their natural oil content... with ebony for instance, many finishes won’t stick to it. Do you plan on refinishing the whole stock, and if yes, what finish material are you planning to use?

Regard,
Green Frog

Guayacan is one of the hardest woods there is. When it rusts, it turns black.
I plan to remove the original lacquer that comes with the cylinder head. Then, finish it with walnut oil. For which I use crushed walnuts and wrap them in a cotton cloth, then rub the wood. I repeat the procedure until the wood no longer absorbs oil.

Greetings....