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Trailboss
06-04-2021, 06:49 AM
Prior to my first attempt at casting I saw candle wax , or similar added to the mix but I forgot all about it .... I知 useing 98 per cent new roof flashing lead and 2 per cent tin 1200 FPS hunting loads 405 grain Bullets in a cbe brass mould. All is goin really good I知 very happy with what I知 producing ...wax essential?

358429
06-04-2021, 06:52 AM
No not essential for fluxing. It just makes much more efficient to clean the molten metal faster. Get a small piece of a rag and damp about half of it with oil is it to wipe down the mold blocks and clean /lubricate the sprue if you get lead smears.

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high standard 40
06-04-2021, 06:52 AM
Paraffin is a great reductant. It helps the lead and tin to alloy together smoothly. It also helps somewhat as a flux.

remy3424
06-04-2021, 07:50 AM
I say no. Never have put any into my mix, I have only cast boolits destined for handguns at this point. No sure how it could help, but use it if you think it helps cast a better boolit. Many of use include extra steps we feel might help, but are likely not necessary.

charlie b
06-04-2021, 08:55 AM
I flux every time I start up the pot, but, it really isn't necessary unless you add some new alloy or some impurities get in the pot.

Wayne Smith
06-04-2021, 09:03 AM
Depends on how you cast. I use an open pot on a gas flame and a ladle - thus lots of O2 exposure, when ladling it out, when the overflow falls back into the pot, and when the sprue is tossed back in. Thus I need to reduce the tin when it gets thick enough to cause sheeting when I pour. For this paraffin (candle) wax works great.

popper
06-04-2021, 09:51 AM
Wax of any kind is not an additive to alloy, just used to clean it. Drip or cut a piece to drop onto the alloy, keeping the alloy temp down to just liquid. Stir and lift the stirring tool from top to bottom many times. You are trying to get any junk in the liquid to float to the top. After the junk is on top, increase the temp to get the wax to burn. Barbecue lighter will set it on fire if needed - don't inhale the smoke. Then scrape off the crud from the top. Junk sticks to the liquid wax, burning de-oxidizes tin so it mixes into the alloy. I save what is scraped off in a tin can - add to next batch. Watch to make sure ALL your tools are warm and dry before placing in alloy or you get the tinsel fairy - wear gloves, long sleeves and eye/face protection when working with hot alloy - the tiny burns are a PAIN. ANY moisture will turn to steam and cause volcanic eruption. It happens, be prepared.

Trailboss
06-05-2021, 05:25 AM
Thanks for the replies. I tried a bit of candle wax this arv but it caught fire on top of my lead instead of just sizzling. All my Bullets turned out fine. I’m a bit uncertain about the type of wax I used. Tomorrow at the super market I’ll buy some simple cheap white candles without scent colours or god knows what rubbish some companies use when they are making those silly candles

Wayne Smith
06-05-2021, 09:35 AM
You will get smoke and it is easily lit, thus reducing the offensive smell. As I understand it wax is a reductant, it reduces the tin back into the alloy after it oxidizes out. That is from reading here by those who are better educated in chemistry than I am.

John Guedry
06-05-2021, 10:01 AM
I always use candle wax or bullet lube in my lead to clean it up. Just what I was taught in plumbing class back in 1960.

popper
06-05-2021, 11:01 AM
caught fire on top of my lead Yup, normal. Reduces the tin back in but doesn't 'clean' alloy. If your alloy is 650F or so it won't burn but cleans the alloy. I add some when I turn the pot off, let it cool a bit, to 'seal the pot when not in use. Next time I turn it on, I can stir in before it burns.

WRideout
06-05-2021, 09:03 PM
Any more, I throw in one partially used birthday candle when my lead pot is melted. If it doesn't catch fire on its own, I throw in a match to get it going, and keep the smoke down. I don't usually have to do more than that. It does seem to help the tin and lead mix nicely.

Wayne

GregLaROCHE
06-06-2021, 03:19 AM
No not essential for fluxing. It just makes much more efficient to clean the molten metal faster. Get a small piece of a rag and damp about half of it with oil is it to wipe down the mold blocks and clean /lubricate the sprue if you get lead smears.

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Be very careful where you put oil on a mold. Certainly don’t get any in the cavity or even close. It’s often the number one cause of wrinkled boolits. If you need to lube something a tiny touch of beeswax works well. Some people use 2 cycle oil and a Q tip.