Need advice on stock finish for new 7x57 Mauser, sights/optics also Rem Roller build.

[koger]

Ok things are moving right along. I have a smokeless 1910 model with a brand new Green mtn 7x57, tapered Octagonal barrel on it, some replacements screws, pins etc. I am at a turning point in the build, wanted to toss out the options and see what you guys think, since I highly value your opinion.

1. I have a curly maple stock with cheekpiece and forearm blank for the build. Both pieces have 100% curl, spaced evenly throughout! I have the stock 95% done, just a little mor sanding and inletting, and have the forearm inletted, but it is still in block form. I was wondering, what type of stain, you guys would like on the wood. A clear/maple stain, medium brown, or a Mahogany which is old school english red, that turns the stripe black. I am leaning towards the last, because I like this on several ML's I have built, but wanted your feedback.

2. l am torn between a MVA Remington rough and ready type sight, which will sit on the flat that butts up to the reciver, which has a notch sight, and a flip up peep, that slides up and down the scale, and a scope, for hunting purposes. I have a 3" flat plane on top of the reciever before it drops off to tapered barrel, in which I could drill and tap for a scope base. If I go with a scope, it will more than likely be a 2x8 or a fixed 6x, which should do all I need to do out to 300yds, which will take care of most of my hunting around my house that I do. The main problem I have with the iron sight, is that the peep sights when the staff are elevated, is too far from my eye, and this would mean I would just tighten the peep up, mark it across the top and bottom, and take 1/3rd off of both, and then notch the middle of the bar that is left, and use it to sight from. I am heading towards 59 years of age, and my eyes are still good, I can shoot open sights very good, for now but that can change in a hurry. Also, I think the clean tapered barrel with a small optic, would look pretty nice. Again all feedback encouraged.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

283671 283672 283673
Click to enlarge.

Here's one I did special order for a customer 20 years ago. I didn't use any stain at all, if I recall correctly, and just applied and rubbed back many coats of Tru-Oil until I got what I wanted. The tang peep sight was installed. Personally, I dislike them, but the customer wanted one.

An optic? Why not? But I think I'd get one of those old time really long ones to make it look "period".

DG

[ulav8r]

koger, your opinion is the most important one, but I am no fan of blonde stocks. Have seen a few muzzle loaders with dark stained maple stocks that look really good.

[Harleysboss]

Have you ever used Aqua Fortis? With your high figure maple it should really make it pop. It turns the wood a rich reddish color. I've had really good results with min wax wipe on ploy. It produces an ultra thin feel. Plenty of you tube videos. My opinion it is a much closer to hand rubbed oil finish without the work and no build up feel like tru oil. I've also used a pro duct called Lin Speed. That produced a nice finish as well. I have a 50-70 roller and a 40-65 roller both done with the auqa fortis. I also have a hilux 3x malcomb scope on my 50-70. Kind of a cool factor there. I had the rough ready mva and beach combo front on one of them. Didn't care for it.

[Harleysboss]

Here’s an aqua fortis stock. Wood came from treebone. 283689

[Harleysboss]

Here’s one of my 50-70. Also aqua fortis. 283690

[Harleysboss]

Here’s an 03 Springfield stock sealed with min wax wipe on poly 283691

[NEKVT]

TruOil cut 50/50 with paint thinner goes on with very thin coats and doesn't build up like it does used straight and requires no working in between coats or after to get that rubbed oil finish.

Had to look up that MVA sight. If you are potentially taking hunting shots out to 300yds probably better off with optics but I don't see the position of that peep sight being a problem with in its range limitation. I have two rifles with peeps even further out at the std rear sight position that my soon to be 67yr old eyes can shoot with. One is an original Krag with 1901 sight and the other is a Win 60A .22 I posted about with pictures in the Rimfire Rifles section.

[marlinman93]

I personally am not a fan of light colored stocks. I have a couple old guns built in the late 1800's or early 1900's with birdseye maple stocks, and they're lighter than I like. Since they're old I wont alter them, but if I was building them today they'd get stained to at least a medium brown color.
I do like the reddish tint that many of the older gun makers used, although I find original Winchesters of the era a bit too red. But a reddish brown tint on walnut looks nice, and I mix Minn Wax stains to get the slight red tint when I'm staining stocks.
This Roller I built long ago is done with Minn Wax stains I mixed to get what I wanted.

https://i.imgur.com/zGRZdtLl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4OJ3CYil.jpg

I'm just starting another Roller build that I've wanted to do for a long time. All my Rollers are mostly either .40 cal. or larger, or .22RF. I've got a receiver I had milled octagon some time ago, and a pistol grip Remington lower tang I just fitted to it. Just bought a nice Green Mountain 34" 1:14" twist .32-40 octagon barrel from a friend to put on it. Just need to have stocks inletted for it, and I can proceed with assembly. I want to have the stocks cut to the shape Remington used on their Long-Range Rollers, but with a cheekpiece Long-Range rifles didn't use.

[Mk42gunner]

Another vote for Aqua Fortis, followed by thinned Truoil. The neat thing about Aqua Fortis is that it doesn't cover up or muddy any of the grain variations on curly maple, like most stains will.

It does turn the wood a sickly green color before you apply heat, but then it turns a marvelous golden brown that just looks right.

As for sights, you're on your own.

Robert

[444ttd]

i used hartley 's dark oil wood filler and minwax antique oil finish. then i'll use a coat or two johnson's paste wax.

i have famowood oil wood fillers, just pick your poison, teak, maple,walnut.....
i have to get trewax....when i remember!!!!!!!:oops::oops:

i don't have a phone camera, just my 'puter........

98 mauser
https://i.imgur.com/mRsnspc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yWAYSpw.jpg

1898 spr armory
https://i.imgur.com/CPn1e1S.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DVr4IEx.jpg

93 spanish mauser
https://i.imgur.com/bk1VsLe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6ivP5Ws.jpg

[koger]

Guys thanks for all the pics and suggestions. Harleyboss, I like the aquafortis, used it a few times on ML builds and knife handles, have been considering it already. I actually like the green/gray color it gives stocks. MarlinMan 93 I like the colors on you stock very much. I have had great luck using Fleibings leather stain as it is alcohol based. I find the dark brown and medium brown to end up much like the classic english red I had talked about earlier. I cut off a chunk of the forearm blank, and have it cut into 2 pieces, with all 4 sides sanded down, and will stain each one with a different method and see how it turns out before finisihing the stock.

[Mk42gunner]

I cut off a chunk of the forearm blank, and have it cut into 2 pieces, with all 4 sides sanded down, and will stain each one with a different method and see how it turns out before finisihing the stock.

What, take all the guesswork out? No "I really hope this doesn't screw up all my stockwork when it goes bad" thoughts?

Actually the idea of testing different finishes on your specific piece of wood makes a lot of sense to me. Good luck with your stock.

Robert

[marlinman93]

For the final finish on all my stocks I use only Minn Wax Wipe On Poly. It's very thin consistency, and penetrates extremely well on raw wood. It also works extremely well to refinish wood as it goes over almost any other finish and never has a reaction to any remaining finish deep in the wood.
The WOP gives a hand rubbed oil finish, and is easily spot filled or repaired if it's ever damaged. Unlike most polyurethane finishes that are thick and don't allow blending in on scratches, or repairs.

[koger]

Marlinman 93, I have about half a can of WOP I have been using it for knife handles and several stocks I have refinished and refreshed with great results. I will probably use it as a finish on this combo. Thanks again for all the feedback.