wet or dry?

[Claudius]

I'm undecided: wet or dry patch for my 45/70 DDEPP bullets? the opinions are different on this argument, a wet patch shrinks and adhere more firmly to the bullet, someone says that this is good for target shooting. I tried several papers: the Onion Skin from Buffaloarms, the Seth Cole 55W and 55Y, I like the last two very much. Some people don't like the wet paper because the risk of the paper to remain sticked on the bullet after shooting, but never happened to me. In my experience wetting the patches is boring, but I like a well adherent paper on the bullet. However the diameter of the bullet remain subastantially the same, I can't see any difference from wet and dry patches bullets.
What's your opinions?

[Don McDowell]

Let your rifle tell you which is best, mine tell me it's wet patched they prefer.

[GregLaROCHE]

I find it easier apply the paper when wet (lightly dampened), but I know that a lot of shooters prefer dry.

[725]

Question; How do you get the dry to stay rolled against the bullet? I have to dampen the paper to make it hold together. I let the bullet / paper dry before loading.

[midnight]

I have never done this but my brother dampens patches & rolls them on & lets them dry. He then melts beeswax in a pan and stands the bullets up in the melted beeswax & waits until the lead is heated to the temperature of the wax. He then removes them & stands them on a paper towel until they cool. Excess beeswax on the noses is wiped off & they are loaded. Any comments on this method?

Bob

[Randy Bohannon]

Dry wrapped,the bullet is seated in the charged case when it’s finished being wrapped. Wet wrapped has been better on the target than dry in my rifles.

[Bent Ramrod]

I patch dry. When I dampened the papers, I’d find paper stuck to the ends of the dirt diggers around the target.

Maybe some of the sizing in the paper gets sticky when wet. Some people warm the wet patched boolits on a coffee warming plate and dry them that way, reporting no problems with sticking patches.

I generally don’t roll the patches and put them into the cases directly. I go through the trash cans at the pistol range and look for those plastic trays that come in the ammo boxes. 45 Auto trays hold the paper on .45 and .44 boolits, .40S&W works for .40 calibers, .357 trays work for .38 calibers, and so on. After a while, the paper takes a set, and I can pick them out and pop them into the shells after the charging, wads, compression and all that other stuff is done. Now and again I need to retighten a patch, but it’s no big problem.

[country gent]

Several little things. You may need to modify your template for damp wet patches as there will be more stretch. I have wrapped both dry and damp. saucer with water and a thin sponge in it. set 5-6 patches on the sponge. You will see them curl up and then uncurl replace as you wrap patch for patch. Another way is a ziplock bag with patches and add X number of drops of water and let sit over night sealed before use.

I have found a good tight under fold goes farther to lock the patch in place, as long as its a good wrap

I use patch board for wrapping and this helps me get the tight dry wrap and then the well creased under fold.

[Kenny Wasserburger]

Wet patch here as Did Sharps.

Kenny

[Claudius]

I like the wet patching, it's a bit boring because I have to let the bullets dry, but definitely it seems more consistent to me.

[Distant Thunder]

I've been dry patching now longer than I can remember, but both methods work. I just prefer dry patching and the accuracy has been good.

I do run all my patched bullets through a sizing die after the patch is applied. This irons out the paper and makes for a very uniform fit in the bore and I like mine to fit snug. Once the bullets are run through the sizer the paper stays on very well, but I usually finger seat them as they are patched and sized and then just lightly close up the case mouth in a tapered neck sizing die to help keep the bullets in place. I put that round in the ammo box and repeat for the next cartridge.

[JKR]

I've been dry patching now longer than I can remember, but both methods work. I just prefer dry patching and the accuracy has been good.

I do run all my patched bullets through a sizing die after the patch is applied. This irons out the paper and makes for a very uniform fit in the bore and I like mine to fit snug. Once the bullets are run through the sizer the paper stays on very well, but I usually finger seat them as they are patched and sized and then just lightly close up the case mouth in a tapered neck sizing die to help keep the bullets in place. I put that round in the ammo box and repeat for the next cartridge.

I learned paper patching from Jim. When I expressed interest he went all out to help me. He said it was so easy that he was surprised more people didn’t do it.
My process mirrors his. I dry patch using only my fingers. No patch board. After putting the patch on the bullet, I push it through a Lee .451 sizer. I can then finger seat it into a charged case and bump it into a 45 Colt die to tighten the case to the bullet.
JKR
This has worked extremely well in my Shiloh rifle.

[Buckbrush]

I haven't been paper patching that long but my process mirrors that of distant thunder.
Any thing to reducing time. I wrap by hand put thru sizing die it seems to iron on the paper. Seat by hand and run thru seating die just enough to close the bell and hold bullet in place. Then finish by using a lee factory crimp die. Works very well in my marlin cb 38-55 with IMR 3031.

[idahoron]

I learned paper patching from Jim. When I expressed interest he went all out to help me. He said it was so easy that he was surprised more people didn’t do it.
My process mirrors his. I dry patch using only my fingers. No patch board. After putting the patch on the bullet, I push it through a Lee .451 sizer. I can then finger seat it into a charged case and bump it into a 45 Colt die to tighten the case to the bullet.
JKR
This has worked extremely well in my Shiloh rifle.


That's how I roll my Muzzleloader bullets. I roll the paper on with fingers, size and they are ready to go.

[MikeT]

I have never done this but my brother dampens patches & rolls them on & lets them dry. He then melts beeswax in a pan and stands the bullets up in the melted beeswax & waits until the lead is heated to the temperature of the wax. He then removes them & stands them on a paper towel until they cool. Excess beeswax on the noses is wiped off & they are loaded. Any comments on this method?

Bob

Why does he put the PP bullets into wax?
I wrap wet; started that way and have never tried any other method.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT

[Buckshot]

..............When I paper patch, I pull the patch across a wet sponge that's in a saucer of water. The patch is dampened but not soaked. It retains the strength to be stretched without tearing, as it's wrapped around the bullet. When the patch dries it shrinks and becomes just like it was painted on. If you want it off you almost have to score it with a razor blade. When dry they're boxed. Before loading they get a sparse lube (finger wiped on) of Lanolin.

..............Buckshot

[Claudius]

..............When I paper patch, I pull the patch across a wet sponge that's in a saucer of water. The patch is dampened but not soaked. It retains the strength to be stretched without tearing, as it's wrapped around the bullet. When the patch dries it shrinks and becomes just like it was painted on. If you want it off you almost have to score it with a razor blade. When dry they're boxed. Before loading they get a sparse lube (finger wiped on) of Lanolin.

..............Buckshot

I'm using olive oil and it works well for my muzzleloader rifle and PP bullets. What's the advantage using the Lanolin?

[Gobeyond]

When you use a dry patch and then seating what do you do with the tail on the bottom of the boo lit?

[MichaelR]

When you use a dry patch and then seating what do you do with the tail on the bottom of the boo lit?

Search YouTube for Brent Danielson rolling a bullet.

[country gent]

Some clip the tail off before loading with nail clippers.

I wrap tailless leaving a small opening in the base fold under. Wrapped tight and when the fold under if creased it helps lock the patch in place with out punning the patch down like the twisted tail. I also give the wrap a very light coat of Jo Jobba Oil to water proof and lube the patch before loading. By light coat a drop of oil on finger will do 3-5 bullet depending on caliber.

[ian45662]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220314/f65501451791ced277fad9cce1e6f081.jpg


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[Lead pot]

I patch dry. When I dampened the papers, I’d find paper stuck to the ends of the dirt diggers around the target.


BR, that is why they were in the dirt instead on the target. :D

[Lead pot]

I have a friend that lives below the snow belt that asked me if he could send me some of his patched bullets and with instructions how he loads the shells. I followed his instructions to a T and shot them into a snow drift and recovered them and send them back to him.
Those bullets flew down range and penetrated 10-12 feet into the drift and the results is what you see plus I found patches on the ground that came off in the drift after the snow melted.
Those patches were wet patched and the tail tugged into the cup base like they should be using a cup base bullet to protect the skirting keep the wad from sticking in the base.



297651

[Don McDowell]

I wet patch
I find the accuracy to be much better and believe that any dirt diggers is most likely a problem with something else


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[FrankJD]

I do em dry, so no sticking issues.

[Edward]

I do em dry, so no sticking issues.

I'm with Frank on this ,every thing I shoot patched is laying within 10 feet of the bench (no free rides)/Ed

[Gobeyond]

I’ve used the moist patches for all the reasons stated. But dry would go on faster and be held by the case and creases at base. I tell you this reading these threads is changing how I think it should be done. I like the lube and beeswax ideas too.

[exarcher]

I have never done this but my brother dampens patches & rolls them on & lets them dry. He then melts beeswax in a pan and stands the bullets up in the melted beeswax & waits until the lead is heated to the temperature of the wax. He then removes them & stands them on a paper towel until they cool. Excess beeswax on the noses is wiped off & they are loaded. Any comments on this method?

Bob

in "the paper jacket",, similar methods are described to waterproof the jacket for hunting use ect.

[curdog007]

I believe the British did the same for the Martini bullets.

[Good Cheer]

Twisted tails tied for a tighter snip.
https://i.imgur.com/y3UMnJQ.jpg

[Lead pot]

The twisted tail patch has a place when using cup or the deeper hollow based bullets.
I think the thought behind the hollow and cup based bullets I believe was a throw back from the muzzle loader that were beneficial for quick expansion in the deeper grooved bore used and they still have the potential to shoot well with a proper twisted tail in the fixed cartridge rifles if the cavity is filled properly with the twisted tail. The twisted tail was used to hold the wad from getting pushed away from the bore wall letting gas pass by and causing sevear gas cuts. The twisted knot holds the wad from getting pushed into the cup base, it's really needed using a cup or hollow base.
Below I cast and I shoot cup based bullets cast with an original Sharps bullet mould and they shoot very well but I have to use the twisted tail like the Sharps Rifle Company did. If the patch is just folded under like a flat based bullet every bullet had full length gas cuts from the base to the ogive curvature or what I call mouse nibbles at the base.
As far as dipping a patched bullet in wax or even lube I have never done this because of the thought that the patch would ride down range with the bullet.
Heck I don't even use any lube using a PP bullet under it or on it.

312554312555

[bearingsmith]

I do em dry, so no sticking issues.

Do the bullets you use have grease grooves or straight sides?
My understanding is the very best accuracy can only be achieved by the entire patch releasing from the bullet at the same instant, Your thoughts?

[Pilgrim1]

I wet patch DDPP Elliptical bullets from a BACO mold with Seth Cole 55 paper for my 40-65 . It took some getting used to but it is not hard and I have shot 3 of 4 five shot groups in a CBA 100 yard bench rest match that were under 1 MOA...let one shot get away on the fourth group. It really is worth the effort.

[country gent]

I dont wet them with water. But i will put 300 or so cut patches in a ziplock bag with a few drops of Jo Joba oil and let set for a few days.the oil is spread thru the paches evenly non are wet just a glisten to them. These patches roll on very even fold under and into the cup base good. When loaded they seem to be just lubricated enough, not wet to be sloppy but wet enough to grip and lay down good. Patches confetti is found 3-5 feet in front of the muzzle. I find the inner wrap showing engraving with the fold under attached. no burns or discoloring. The outer wrap is confetti I wrap tail less with a small circle of the base showing in the center of the patched bullet.

My bullets are all smooth sided most are cup base but there are a couple flat based. My PP bullets are all bore riders. I PP in 38-55,40-65, 45-70 and 45-90.

Recovered patches can tell you a lot about your load.

[SchwarzStock]

I wet patch in 45-110 and 50-100. If you are finding patches (or remnants) stuck to your bullets the bullet is not expanding to allow the rifling to cut the patch.Could be the bullet is too small, the charge is too light or.... I don't have a problem with the patch dropping but have had a lube cookie stick in the hollow base PPB. Fixed this with a hard wad and disc of wax paper on top of the lube cookie

[craneman]

I dry patch all my bullets. 45-70 straight sided and dd, 40-65 dd and 50-90 dd for years. We have had great match results. I like that I can sit in my easy chair and patch, no fuss no muss.