Powdercoat woes

[johnsonian09]

I don't understand what the hell is wrong but. I can't get any damn powder to stick bullets for beans. I tried the tumble static with bb thing. No luck. I tried the machine that induces static for powder coating no luck.

I resorted to using a hot drop liquid powdercoat method normally used for lead fishing weights. It works to get them coated but brings my size from .311 to .318-.325 and then when I size the stupid things the coating flakes off.

I've watched a bunch of YouTube and have tried various things all this week. And none of the resulting bullets I would dare put in a gun.

What's wrong here? Any insight?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210506/288b645cd77391faf0b248ab06a9992f.jpg

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[StuBach]

What powder coat are you using? I’ve read that some members have seen results like that with poor quality PC and when they get a better type it works better. I know my black is a little more temperamental than my clear but both work well (Smoke Pc sold on this forum).

Also, are you handling the bullets before they go in the powder? Might try rinsing them in acetone and letting them fully dry before trying to Pc to get all oils off? Iv also read that some members pre-heat their bullets to say 80-100 degrees before going in the powder to help it stick better when shaking.

What temp are you baking at and for how long?

[johnsonian09]

I've been using black HF powder,

5min in the ultrasonic cleaner, bake dry, cool, coat. For when I tried the static shake and bake.

For the drop method it goes from the warm mold into powder and into the oven.

20minutes at 400 degrees baking for both methods.

Then once cooled to room temp goes thru the sizer.

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[redriverhunter]

I am no expert. My questions would be. 1. what powder are you using? 2. what container are you using to shake/swirl? 3. how are you removing the bullets from powder container? 4. what are you putting the bullets on in the oven and at what temp. From what I understand high humidity has an effect.
What I use for a container is a Walmart cottage cheese container, at this time I like smokes clear the best for powder (from what I understand smoke tests the powder before he sells). I put about 1 tsp in the container a hand full of bullets then shake/swirl for about a minute to two. Put a paper plate down then I have a wire basket from walmart kind of like this one https://www.amazon.com/Household-Storage-Organizer-Container-Handles/dp/B08SQHT6GN/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=mesh+storage+containers&qid=1620342447&sr=8-5 . then dump the bullet on a silicone mate from walmart that has little pyramids separate with tweezers. I do not pre heat the oven I set it for 30 minutes on the timer and temp. 450. The powder on the paper plate gets dumped back into the container I will not add more untill the bullets don't look like they are getting good coverage. It works for me, not saying I do much as others would it works well enough for me.

[high standard 40]

I'm a relative newcomer to powder coating but I can share my experience and suggestions.

Use a quality powder. I use Smokes
I rinse my bullets in acetone before attempting to coat. Don't touch the bullets with a bare hand.
I use a hair dryer to make sure the acetone is fully dried and to slightly warm the bullets.
I use a Zip-lok screw lid container (recycle code 5) along with Smokes black airsoft BBs
Shake and swirl for a couple of minutes.
I remove bullets with tweezers and shake off excess powder.
I bake at 400 degrees for 20 minutes.
I do all this in a climate controlled room (air conditioning and heat)

This process works for me.

[StuBach]

I've been using black HF powder,

5min in the ultrasonic cleaner, bake dry, cool, coat. For when I tried the static shake and bake.

For the drop method it goes from the warm mold into powder and into the oven.

20minutes at 400 degrees baking for both methods.

Then once cooled to room temp goes thru the sizer.

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I think the powder may be your issue. I read a ton of the old original threads when the PC was being developed on this forum and everyone tried all sorts of different methods and powders. One consistent comment was that the only HF powder that actually worked was HF Red but that was somewhat hit and miss. That’s why they ended up sourcing other alternatives.

I would recommend reaching out to Smoke and sourcing one of his sample tri color packs and try those instead and see how your results vary. I recommend his clear as it coats amazingly and maintains the classic bullet look.

If you don’t want to invest that much on an experiment shoot me a PM and maybe I can send you a small amount to try.

Here’s a photo of some PCing I was doing the other night left tray just came out of oven for 16 min at 400. Right tray was about to go in. Smoke clear with some Smoke Green and Smoke black mixed in.

I shake in a ikea plastic locking container (but I’ve used cool whip containers, country crock containers, ziplock containers, etc with success as long as it has “5” triangle code) with air soft BBS for 1.5 minutes before extracting using latex glove fingers dipped in powder so I don’t wipe off the powder before baking. I can send you a video of my process if it would help.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210506/319717e908977040b524c5131e0e3bca.jpg

[johnsonian09]

Who is smoke? A member on the forum? Does he have a website?

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[high standard 40]

StuBach, I noticed the Sharpie notice on the side of your oven. I did the exact same thing with mine when I started baking bullets back in my Hi-Tek days.

[StuBach]

Who is smoke? A member on the forum? Does he have a website?

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He’s a vendor on this forum. Here’s the thread for ordering:

VS - Hi quality Powder for DT or Spraying bullets
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=9688&share_tid=241259&url=https%3A%2F%2Fcastboolits%2Egunloads%2Ecom%2Fs howthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D241259&share_type=t&link_source=app

He also sells AS BBs if you need.

[StuBach]

StuBach, I noticed the Sharpie notice on the side of your oven. I did the exact same thing with mine when I started baking bullets back in my Hi-Tek days.

I have learned too many times that if I don’t label things than someone else who doesn’t know better might use incorrectly. Looked for ages for my grandpas CI corncob ingot mold with no luck only to find out from my dad that it was sold in a garage sale as part of the kitchen stuff. He didn’t realize why it was sitting in the gun shop instead of the kitchen. Just hope it was never used for baking again.

[charlie b]

Get rid of the HF powder and get some from Smokes.

I also clean my bullets with acetone before shaking. Make sure to get all oils off. Dry and shake.

How humid is it when you shake them? The lower the better. I'm in the desert SW so just about any day (even a rainy one) is ok for generating static.

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[johnsonian09]

It's usually high humidity here in east coast. River in the back yard probably don't help much.

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[StuBach]

It's usually high humidity here in east coast. River in the back yard probably don't help much.

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I live in Michigan where house humidity is usually in the 40-70% and have never had an issue with smoke powders, can’t say for humidity over that.

Just cause I’m thoroughly impressed with how well the seal works on these ikea containers I just wanted to give them a shout out to those doing BB shake and bake. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210507/5b0004e4ad9d72a21e630d938668b07a.jpg
The seal is a multi ribbed gasket that, unlike other locking containers I’ve tried, doesn’t seem to dry out when exposed to PC and when all four locks are seated I haven’t had any powder leakage. Cost is less than $4 per when you buy both lid and container.

[oley55]

johnsonian09,

there is a plethora of powder coating success and failure threads in the 'Coatings and Alternatives' sub-form.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?184-Coatings-and-Alternatives

[oley55]

I think the powder may be your issue. I read a ton of the old original threads when the PC was being developed on this forum and everyone tried all sorts of different methods and powders. One consistent comment was that the only HF powder that actually worked was HF Red but that was somewhat hit and miss. That’s why they ended up sourcing other alternatives.

I would recommend reaching out to Smoke and sourcing one of his sample tri color packs and try those instead and see how your results vary. I recommend his clear as it coats amazingly and maintains the classic bullet look.

If you don’t want to invest that much on an experiment shoot me a PM and maybe I can send you a small amount to try.

Here’s a photo of some PCing I was doing the other night left tray just came out of oven for 16 min at 400. Right tray was about to go in. Smoke clear with some Smoke Green and Smoke black mixed in.

I shake in a ikea plastic locking container (but I’ve used cool whip containers, country crock containers, ziplock containers, etc with success as long as it has “5” triangle code) with air soft BBS for 1.5 minutes before extracting using latex glove fingers dipped in powder so I don’t wipe off the powder before baking. I can send you a video of my process if it would help.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210506/319717e908977040b524c5131e0e3bca.jpg

stubak,

a question about that Jiff jar on your bench, are you using that as a powder tumbling container or for some other function? If yes, I was under the impression only recycle numbers 2 and 5 were suitable for shake-n-bake and those clear plastic containers are recycle number 1. I've been tempted to try them, but haven't do to everything posted saying not to.

[StuBach]

stubak, a question about that Jiff jar on your table, are you using that as a powder tumbling container or for some other function? If yes, I was under the impression only recycle numbers 2 and 5 were suitable for shake-n-bake and those clear plastic containers are recycle number 1.

No, Jiff jar is used for bullet storage hence the label on it. That particular jar had stored the bare 9mm in the left side tray. I use the Ikea365 containers I mentioned earlier for shake and bake.

[oley55]

I should learn to read more thoroughly before posting.........:oops:

[elmacgyver0]

I started with HF powder and had poor results. I bought some Eastwood powder and I now have very good results.
It seems everyone needs to learn this for himself. I also found some colors work better than others.

[Huskerguy]

I will give you my two cents worth. I have been Powder Coating for quite a while and few problems. I am cautious of all the extra steps some use. I do use Smokes powder in Flame Red, Carolina Blue and Clear. I also have tried traffic orange and it is workable but that is about it. I started with HF Red and it worked, just OK. So yes, there is a difference in powders. Smokes clear is darn near fool proof. I put my bullets in a #5 container, a glad sandwich container and I never worry about humidity. It can get very humid where I live but I have never had a problem. I formerly painted cars and humidity is a factor when paint is sprayed toward the surface and traps the moisture going down. I don't see where humidity can get into the metal. I don't worry about touching bullets, it is never a problem unless you have especially oily skin then maybe. Use latex gloves if you are concerned which is a good idea anyway. I pick mine with surgical forcepts one at a time when coated. I don't worry about touching the tips as the paint flows over those spots and they don't touch the barrel anyway. I swirl, shake, turn upside down and create more static by running the container on my hand. I use BB's but it works with it without. I do not preheat nor do I clean bullets as I see no sense in putting more chemicals on a porous metal, lead. My bullets are very nice, people who see them can't believe them. So it doesn't have to be complicated. Start with a very simple system with fewer steps before making changes. With too many steps you don't know where the problem is. Try smokes clear and my guess is you will be an expert. Just make sure you shake off the excess and there are a couple ways to do that. Good luck.

[JimB..]

Only thing I’ll add is to really check your temps, and better to cook a few min too long than not long enough.

I learned the lesson about HF powder feom you guys so I didn’t have to do it myself! I’m not always that smart.

[Conditor22]

Not everything is equal in powder coating.

Powder Coating creates a Polymer coating/shell around the cast boolit
.....a) it helps protect the boolit from the barrel
.....b) it works as a lubricant between the boolit and the barrel
.....c) it protects the user (and user's kids) from the lead

Different atmospheric conditions can limit static or dampen the powder.

1) the powder must be kept dry ----I use double zipper bags in the NW where we get a lot of rain, store my powder in a garage with a gas furnace and WH
2) the boolits must be kept clean --- IF I'm not coating the boolits right away I put them in plastic zipper bags --- NEVER QUENCH before PCing!!!
.....a) baking the boolits will take most of the hardness you gain by quenching out of the boolit
.....b) quenching is a good way to contaminate the boolits so the PC won't stick well
.....c) quenching after PCing gives good results
.....d) touching the boolit with oily hands can/will affect the coating --- wear nitrile/plastic gloves or use a clean spoon or ? to move the boolits

https://i.imgur.com/uclR2g1.png

PC can be dried out in an oven KEEP the temperature below 150° F (leaving the container open in an airconditioned room works) IF the PC is lumpy after drying it will quickly become powder again when you start swirl/shaking [I Rarely ever shake the container when PCing -- the containers don't last long when I do and just swirling gives me good results

3) the oven temperature must be checked with an oven thermometer (or 2) and the dial adjusted to where the thermometers read 400°
.....a) the oven temperatures will change with the surrounding air temperature due to location and type of sensor they use
.....b) toaster ovens work but only for smaller loads and have a tendency to have hot spots (some of the boolits can/will melt)
.....c) conventions ovens have been proven best because they have a circulating and the evenly heats all the boolits ---you can safely bake full trays of boolits

4) If the air/atmosphere is really damp you may need to pre-warm the boolits --- I use an oven set at 150° F or you can set a pan of boolits on to of your hot oven
.....a) the boolits must not be hotter than you can comfortably touch with bare hands or you can get PC clumping-- starting to cure

5) not all PC needs BB's/poly pellets to work --- this is a trial and error thing

6) polyester (usually TGIC) PC works best for me, I get better results with higher gloss powders

7) white/light colors generally don't cover well but adding a little of another color usually helps

8) COATING BOOLITS:
.....A) BOWLS
..........1) coating bowls/containers need to be plastic #5 or plastic #2
..........2) larger diameter bowls allow you to swirl/build up static faster thus cool whip bowls do such a good job
..........3) lids: if the bowl doesn't have a screw-on lid make sure you hang onto it or the lid will come open
.....B)STATIC BUILDING MEDIA: Normally cover the bottom of small bowls with 2 layers large bowls with 1 layer
..........1) ASBB (Air Soft BB's) black BB's are proven to work I've found camouflaged BB's that work also. It has to do with the hardness, what the BB's are made out of as to how well they help build static. even nonstatic building BB's will help even out the coating
..........2) Poly pellets normally black or white, haven't found any poly pellets that didn't help
.....C) Boolits:
..........1) use a minimum of 12-15 boolits -- enough to build up static
..........2) maximum no more than 2-3 layers deep in your bowl
.....D) Powder: This will vary on bowl size and number of boolits being coated
..........1)Ziploc Twist 'n Loc, after the BB's are coated, no more than 1 teaspoon per batch see how much PC is left in the bottom of the bowl after coating.
..........2) Cool Whip after the BB's are coated 1-2 teaspoons per batch see how much PC is left in the bottom of the bowl after coating.
..........3) Too much PC will prevent good static build-up
..........4) Too little PC will result in thin/spotty coating --- it's easy to add a little more and swirl a little longer
.....E) blending/mixing different PC is not like dealing with paint, white and black don't always make grey more often you get spotted/splotchy boolits
a) blending/mixing a little good PC with a bad PC often makes the bad PC work
b) blending/mixing multiple PCs can give you amazing results but the results will change with each batch you coat
c) some powders stick faster/better than others, the blend color will be heavier with that color to begin with then taper of when the color is used up in the bowl
.....F) SWIRLING: Screw or hold the lid tight and swirl the bowl holding it flat to verticle and back to flat, continue until all boolit are coated
.....G) preparing coated boolits:
..........1) REMOVE ALL EXCESS POWDER
.................a) Sift PC/boolits/BB's in a colander with something to catch the BB's and powder when they fall through the colander removing all excess PC
........................1) after all the PC/BB's are sifted off pick up the boolits with tweezers or fingers wearing surgical gloves (dipped in pc first to prevent sticking)
.................b) Pick up- dump PC'd boolits in a tray or? pick them up with tweezers, tap the tweezer on the side of a container to remove all excess PC
.....H) preparing to bake: Use a pan lined with non-stick paper/foil/bake mats or screen (1/4 hardware cloth)/wire basket (office supply)
..........a) stand short fat boolits up on their bases using finger or tweezer method
..........b) place taller boolits in silicone ice cube trays or use a metal grid to keep them from falling over
..........c) Dump method dump the sifted boolits in screen (1/4 hardware cloth)/wire basket (office supply) [this doesn't work well with all PC's you can get bad sticking
9) Baking PC the manufacturer states Bake for XX minutes at XXX° AFTER this condition exists
.....a) bake for XX minutes AFTER the boolits have reached XXX°
.....b) bake for XX minutes AFTER the PC starts to flow on the boolits
.....c) PC will look good after it flows and may pass the smash test BUT unless bakes to factory specifications IT IS NOT FULLY CURED
*****I have found that baking the coated boolits in an oven preheated to 400° for 25 minutes meets or exceeds all manufacturers requirements*****

10) Testing PC for adhesion/sticking using a smooth-faced hammer
.....a) flatten the PC'd cool boolit to 1/2 its original height seeing if any PC cracks or flakes off
.....b) hammer the PC'd cool boolit into a cube seeing if any PC cracks or flakes off
.....c) just because the PC passes the hammer test doesn't mean its fully cured, just that it is sticking well

11 SIZING
.....a) PC'd usually boolits size easily; if not, a little spray case lube can be used
.....b) IF PC is scraped off when sizing polish the entrance to your sizing die
..........1) with fine sandpaper made into a cone with the grit on the outside
..........2) with a Dremel tool, a felt boolit shaped polisher and some fine polishing compound --- I like Flitz
.....c)*** I like running a felt polisher in the sizing die for a few seconds to smooth the machine marks and make sizing easier
12 LOADING:
.....a) PC is normally loaded to regular cast boolit loads
.....b) GC usually aren't needed with PC's boolits until you reach 1600 - 2100 fps depending on the gun, powder, and boolit
.....c) PC'd boolits can work with a softer alloy and be pushed faster/harder than regular lubed boolits

***I like using different colored boolits to designate different diameters or powder charges***

How I Powdercoat bullets

PC = Powder Coat
ASBBDT = Airsoft BB’s Dry Tumble = swirl PC in plastic bowl with lid in PC and BB’s or poly pellets.
1) Confirm your oven is actually reaching the temperature you set it at by putting a couple cheap oven thermometers in the middle of the shelf you will be baking on, adjust the oven temperature setting until the thermometers read 400°
A) Countertop ovens are almost always off due to the location and type of thermostat they use. For the same reason, every time the temperature around the oven changes you need to re-check the setting
B) Convection type ovens are preferable to toaster ovens because they circulate the heat and can evenly heat more coated bullets at one time.
2) Get a plastic bowl with a #5 recycle mark on the bottom (I heard other numbers may work) Cover the bottom with ASBB’s or poly pellets
3) Add a couple Teaspoons of the PC color you want
4) Put at least 12 clean bullets up to a couple layers in the bottom of the bowl
5) Make sure the lid is secure and swirl the bowl until the PC has a nice even coating on the bullets 15-60 seconds
6) Pick out the coated bullets with tweezers, tapping off the excess PC and stand them on a bake pan lined with parchment paper/non-stick foil, non-stick bake mat, -----
A) Some people dump the freshly coated bullets in a pan to make them easier to pick out, others make a colander with hole big enough for the BB’s to fall through and sift out the BB’s and excess PC
B) Some PC’s you can sift in a colander then just dump on a bake screen and bake in a pile with little to no sticking.
7) Place in oven preheated to 400° and bake for 25 minutes to assure you are getting a FULL CURE on the PC
A) I like to cover the floor of my ovens with a heat retaining media like ceramic BBQ briquettes/tile, fire brick, lava rock, --- to help the oven recover faster after opening the door
8) Allow the PC’d bullets to cool or water quench them to increase the hardness of COWW (Clip On Wheel Weights) or alloys with antimony and arsenic in them.
9) When the PC’d bullets are cured hammer one into a 1/8 “ thick “Penny” or into a cube to check for adhesion/flaking
10) Size to desired size I prefer the NOE sizing die but also use Lee. You can even size in a lube-sizer.


**Bore Tech Eliminator is the only thing I have found that removes Burnt on PC **

[rototerrier]

Use smokes powder and be done. It ain't that complicated. That HF powder doesn't tumble well.

[StuBach]

I should learn to read more thoroughly before posting.........:oops:

Never a dumb question. Only opportunities to help others.

Conditor22, that is a very thorough process description and process. Just gotta say, Dang! Always enjoy your posts.

Would point out a newer trick I have been using that can save some money. If you use country crock margarine, the square large tubs rest inside one another pretty well but leave about half an inch gap inside on the bottom between them. If your drill BB sized holes in the bottom of the inside one it works great as a strainer and catcher combo. Depending on amount you may have to dump the bottom but these would be free scraps rather than having to find and buy colander with right size holes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210507/6fb62349bcccf570260fbaff5cc68b1e.jpg

[Targa]

HF black powder coat might be the worst choice in powder coating. As others have mentioned go with Eastwood or Smokes. If you want a sure thing get clear and if you have to have colors the blues work great.

[Cast10]

I’m not always smart, but when I am, I listen to experience.

I’m a newby here. Just finished my first PC session. It was mostly successful with additional learning.

I was told, in reading the stickies, to read a lot her before beginning and then ask questions. I’m not preaching here btw! So that’s what I did.

I chose powder from Smoke4320 and colors that most everyone has had immediate success with. I chose the necessary tools that everyone has had success with. I then read for weeks HERE, until I felt like I had a good idea. I only watched the TUBE to get an idea of overall workflow, not details. I set myself up for success.

I would offer this for anyone beginning. I wore nitrile gloves whenever my casting boolits dropped, thru bagging, thru PC’ing. No cleaning was done. I live in Central Texas = humidity. I watched for a low humidity day; 75-100 quite often. I chose a day that was 58%. Followed Smokes recommendations, along with Conditor22’s and a friends here. They were all very similar, but found myself using Smoke’s for the most part. Oven maintaining 400 with a oven thermometer for 20 min once 400 was reached/maintained. All went fairly smooth and I got thru my first session with usable boolits.

These guys here KNOW WHAT THEYR’RE DOING! I appreciate that and their openness to assist. I listen.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?424549-First-PC-Smoke%92s-White-Aluminum-ASBBDT

[jimb16]

Hold on! Why are you putting them in an ultrasonic cleaner? what are you cleaning them with and why? That could be the source of your problem. It may be leaving a residue on the bullets that is interfering with the bonding of the powder coating. After casting, just let the bullets cool without handling. Don't "clean" them unless you are using acetone and don't handle them. Keep them clean and dump them into the PC before shaking. Pick them out with tweezers or forceps then bake. While HF powders are crumby, even they shouldn't flake like that. Something is interfering with the bonding process and I suspect it may be the cleaning.

[Eddie17]

Black HF does not work! Buy a better powder from Smoke!

[murf205]

282612 Thus insignia should be on the bottom of the tub that you use for swirling the PC/BB/boolit mix. It produces the absolute best static for the shake and bake method. Cool Whip and butter tubs are my source for these. Smokes powder is a huge help also.

[johnsonian09]

I've been using containers with the #5 recycling stamp andWith airsoft bbs. And with the hf powder nothing sticks. No handling with bare hands. Just my nitrile mechanic gloves.

When I do the hot drop method I get a beautiful coat but once I cure it and it goes thru the sizer to bring it from .318-.324 back down to .308 is when the majority of the flaking occurs. And when it doesn't flake off it cracks up.

I've ordered some of smokes powder to try as I guess the hf powders are resin based and his are polyester.
I think the resin just bonds up too thick with hot drop and isn't effected strongly enough by static for a shake and bake.

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[high standard 40]

I've been using containers with the #5 recycling stamp andWith airsoft bbs. And with the hf powder nothing sticks. No handling with bare hands. Just my nitrile mechanic gloves.

When I do the hot drop method I get a beautiful coat but once I cure it and it goes thru the sizer to bring it from .318-.324 back down to .308 is when the majority of the flaking occurs. And when it doesn't flake off it cracks up.

I've ordered some of smokes powder to try as I guess the hf powders are resin based and his are polyester.
I think the resin just bonds up too thick with hot drop and isn't effected strongly enough by static for a shake and bake.

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Smart move to go with Smokes powder. Your problem should vanish and you shouldn't need to pre-heat the bullets.

[remy3424]

I thought the HF matte black was decided that the additive to create the "matte" was something that inhibited the static charge.Good with a gun, but won't shake-n-bake.

I too read and reread posts about PC while gathering the equipment...it was at least a year before I dove in, but it was smooth sailing from day one, thanks to the wealth of information in theses pages.

It is your powder man!

[murf205]

.318-.324 is a pretty big stretch. Not to say that it can't be done but I think the HF black has given the most problems of all their powders. If a boolit can pass the smash test , it can handle a sizing like that. Keep us posted on Smoke's powders progress. You seem to be doing every thing right, just need the better material. I use non stick aluminum foil and stand mine on the bases with needle nose pliers and bake @around 375-400 degrees for 20 min and they come out perfect. Hang in there, you are closer than you think!

[johnsonian09]

They do sometimes size down to .308 fine. Others the pc cracks up and displaces the lead. And then I think about 20% of what I've made so far when I size it displaces enough lead to have a large ring of lead and pc punch out the bottom stuck to the anvil.

It's just so inconsistent I don't trust any of it.

Smoke said it would be shipping Tuesday so I hope it works out perfect when I test it.

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[StuBach]

Keep us posted on your progress once you get Smokes powder in. Just out of general curiosity, what color(s) did you go with? [emoji16]

[charlie b]

Sizing. When using S&B you should only add 0.001-0.003" to the bullet dia. If you start with .308 bullets you should only have to size the PC bullet down .002" or so to get them back to .308.

Make sure that you want .308 bullets. Not all barrels are the same. Mine likes 0.309 bullets. If in doubt slug the throat and measure.

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[fredj338]

What powder coat are you using? I’ve read that some members have seen results like that with poor quality PC and when they get a better type it works better. I know my black is a little more temperamental than my clear but both work well (Smoke Pc sold on this forum).

Also, are you handling the bullets before they go in the powder? Might try rinsing them in acetone and letting them fully dry before trying to Pc to get all oils off? Iv also read that some members pre-heat their bullets to say 80-100 degrees before going in the powder to help it stick better when shaking.

What temp are you baking at and for how long?

And that is the problem, it wont stick unless sprayed on.

[johnsonian09]

I'm trying od green, fire red, and silver it hasnt arrived yet I believe he said he was shipping this tuesday

My mold is HTC 311 225

I get the same sizing related crackling with both sizing down to 308 beforehand and sizing again after pc is cured[twice]. And when doing it once after pc.

The hf back pc is such crap. When I can get it to stick on it sticks on so thick it adds .007-.013 on average.

Look how much lead the pc displaces thru the sizer these rings only happen when I powdercoat

For size reference fx hybrid slug, 110grn 30 carbine bullet, and the 225 taco bullethttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210510/e4a600b3b0ee63bb57309afaf6fbf54a.jpg

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[reddog81]

Are those rings getting scrapped off your bullets?

[AlHunt]

The hf back pc is such crap. When I can get it to stick on it sticks on so thick it adds .007-.013 on average.


Well, to be fair, it's crap for our intended usage. It might be great in other applications.

I too believe Smoke's product is going to fix you up. We very rarely see anyone complain that they used his product and the methods detailed here and had it fail.

[popper]

HF black barely sprays right, don't use it! When sizing, use some h2o or tiny bit of lube to see if they come out ok. If the smash ok but don't size good, it's usually the sizer is rough and scrapes PC off. Polish the sizer. Use just a bit of wax - tumbled before sizing helps. If you get scraping with the sizer, any subsequent bullets usually get scraped also due to trash left in the sizer. If PC flakes when smashed it's not sticking to bullets.

[johnsonian09]

For lube I use a bees wax/ mineral oil blend which works very well and cleans up easily. Not much smashing, the die doesn't leave any Mark's on a uncoated lead bullet. I have been cleaning it with a .30 cal bore brush between sessions.

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[johnsonian09]

Smokes powder coat came in yesterday afternoon. First try everything worked perfectly. One coat, perfect coverage.
Size after coating is .3115-.3121. Sizes down to .308 perfectly with little effort. No cracking or fracturing on sizing.

Tried the silver first. Will be trying other colors and ordering powder from smoke again. Stuff is literally perfect https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210515/b1d09eff8367fe7960ab2b1b32d69ac4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210515/dfaf36ddea08be5632ab9a44c4278413.jpg

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[Conditor22]

Makes a BIG DIFFERENCE to have a good powder to coat with.

Now your hooked :)

[StuBach]

Glad you’ve found success. Welcome to the brotherhood of the colored boolit

[white eagle]

oh what a difference powder makes
I took it a step further and went with a powder coat
spray gun and have never had a problem with any powder
of any kind but that is the way it should be with a gun
i do agree though the less steps you take to reach your
outcome of perfect powder coating the better
it is far easier to determine what went wrong if it doesn't
work as you wanted

[Hanzy4200]

Lose the Harbor Freight. I tried Eastwood Powders and it was like heavens gates opened. They almost powder themselves. My first try was HF powder, and it was a friggin disaster.

[richhodg66]

Seems like a lot of trouble for pretty colors. Some liquid alox and you'd have been shooting already.

[Wolfdog91]

Seems like a lot of trouble for pretty colors. Some liquid alox and you'd have been shooting already.

Was wondering how long it was gonna be till somone said that :killingpc

[fredj338]

Seems like a lot of trouble for pretty colors. Some liquid alox and you'd have been shooting already.

Sure along with the smoke & gunk but sure. I was really dubious of coating working well but after 3y & maybe 30k bullets down range, I see no need to go back to lubes. It is just not that hard & everything stays cleaner.

[Eddie17]

HF black is Not your friend. Many other powders work 100% better! Buy powder from smoke!

[richhodg66]

Sure along with the smoke & gunk but sure. I was really dubious of coating working well but after 3y & maybe 30k bullets down range, I see no need to go back to lubes. It is just not that hard & everything stays cleaner.

I only shoot outdoors so smoke doesn't bother me and never was the type to mind getting his hand dirty. That sure looks like a lot of trouble to me.

[guy_with_boolits]

of all the things I've had to learn by trial and error with casting, the powder coat process was the one thing that worked right off the bat without me needing to change anything..heres what I do:

-swirl boolits around in isopropyl alcohol
-bake at 170F for about 20 minutes to dry off and make warmer so PC sticks
-shake around in a plastic tub *NOT #5*
-wear gloves and spread some PC dust on the gloves
-get a 1/4" metal mesh and rub some PC dust on it too
-dump coated bullets on the mesh and shake gently to remove excess dust
-use tweezers or whatever to sit each boolit upright (no thanks to the all random touching style..seems to create lots of random bumps where boolits touch then need to be broken away)
-bake at 400F for 20 minutes
-dump straight into water (quenching may make them harder, havent proved it with the alloy I use though)
-let them dry or bake them at 160F again to dry
-ready for next op

I can smash a coated boolit with a hammer and the powder doesnt come off

[Bayou52]

I, too, was a first time user, and victim, of HF powder coat (white). It was on the shelf and immediately available so I bought it. Pure garbage for bullet coating. For the price I paid for HF, I essentially bought two (2) heavily leaded pistol barrels.

Now using Eastwood Ford light blue. No issues. What a difference the pc brand makes!

https://i.ibb.co/25ghJmf/373866-F1-D340-4096-B1-C9-C86-E2-DB977-C9.jpg

Bayou52

[danmat]

Powder coat is just another tool in the box, I still size and lube my 45 acps and 38 wadcutters, and other low velocity target loads.
When I crank up my magnums and rifle loads powder coat and gas checks make small groups a lot easier to obtain for me
I generally use 50/50 PB/WW water drop the rifle rounds.
I like to keep a open mind and use what works easiest for me.
Smokes was my first powder, it works never looked for another.