Looking at a LS tractor, do you have experience?

[BJK]

I'm aging and surprise! My body of today is NOT the body of even 10 years ago. I need help and I'm thinking mechanical help. Plus, I figure I'll put some $ into something material before the $ inflates (blows up is more like it).

I'm looking at a LS (S' Korea) MT225E/HE (I think the HE is the hydrostatic one which would be mine, but I don't know for certain). It's a 25hp model and that's all that I want. What caught my eye was that the bucket will lift 1600# at the pins, and that's 400# more than anything else in the hp range that I saw. It will also come with a backhoe. What I initially have planned for it is light logging (firewood), digging, hauling dirt, snowbanks, and maybe snow "plowing", later rototilling, and I just don't know what else. I'll figure it out.

Mine will have a Yanmar engine (I think).

If you have LS tractor experience I'd like to know the experience was for you. Great? Good? Alright? Bad? Horrible?

Anything else that you'd like to add would be appreciated.

TIA

[Froogal]

No experience with that particular brand, but the big thing to determine is if the dealer is a reputable dealer that has been around for awhile, and will parts for that tractor still be available in 5 years? 10 years?

[06ackley]

I looked at them when I was looking at tractors. I ended up buying a Kioti and love the tractor. I'd make sure its a reputable dealer above all else no matter what the brand. I looked at the green ones also and dealer rubbed me the wrong way. Kioti dealer let me go into the shop and talk with the service guys and they answered every question I had. Good luck with the purchase. I bought the ck3510.

[alfadan]

I have a kioti ck25. Very similar. There'll be no digging with the FEL but overall very pleased.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Another Kioti owner here. Mine is a CK20H. I'm the 2nd owner. No complaints.

DG

[rockrat]

I bought a used JD850 about 30 years ago. About the same HP I think, with FEL and small backhoe. It has saved me soooooo much work over the years. Think its about the best thing I have bought. Last year I bought a set of small bolt on forks for the FEL and wish I had done that many years earlier.

Yeah, make sure you can get parts for it such as seal kits for the hydraulic cylinders on the FEL and BH. I have a Yanmar on my JD. May have to re-do the starter this year (1000 hrs on the tractor), but thats about it (except for the leaky hydraulic cylinder seals)

[sparky45]

I have no experience with the LS, but this fella has: DEEP SOUTH HOMESTEAD. They have several videos on utube and a review of the LS they owned.

[farmbif]

ive been looking seriously at sub compact 4wd diesel tractors too since I recently sold my big backhoe. there is a local dealer that has the ls , Yanmar's and kioto's
the local rural king has a couple rk24's but the rk25 loader has about 500 lb more lift capacity than the rk24.and none of the rural kings seem to have an rk25 in stock. then there are the Mahindra tractors of which the max26 has the best lift capacity loader. then there is Branson tractor but for me the closest dealer is at least 150 miles down in Georgia .
I'm kind of hesitant to spend so much money on something unless I'm sure of it and that parts and service if needed are readily available
which has me most interested in just shooting the works and go for broke and get a Kubota which is the only one besides John Deere or new holland that will retain its value even if I have to get a used one with a couple hundred hours on it. I really need to start mowing my orchard this year and one of these compact 4wd tractors with a belly mower might be just the ticket, plus a functional loader is always very useful. I refuse to buy a John Deere with electronics just because the way they won't let anyone have the software to diagnose problems, you have to take it to dealer if it has a problem.
if I don't get a Kubota it will probably be one of the tractors that uses a Yanmar engine, they are very reliable and parts are easy to find.

there are a whole bunch of videos on youtube about all of em but most of em I've seen are just some guy bragging about his shiny new tractor. and showing off some work he did with it.

regardless I will still get the old farmall 140 I found online if it is still available.

[farmbif]

I might add ive been running small tractors(less than 100 hp) pretty much all my life and farm tractors will not move dirt anything like a machine that was built to move dirt. the loaders might have the load capacity but the frames are not built strong enough to drive bucket into a hill and take a scoop. they are basically built for moving loose materials like manure from the barn. when I was much younger I broke a loader frame right in half on a real good size 80hp 4wd tractor trying to dig dirt with it. it took a whole bunch of welding to put it back together.

[TimD]

I would compare the overall weight of the tractors you are looking at.

1600# of lift is great, but not so great if it does not have the overall weight to handle that much up front.

I have used a JD 5310, weighs 6800#, and the rear end would come off the ground when handling 800# round bales if you were not careful. My JD 6415, weighs 10,000#, no problem moving bales, dirt, manure, snow, or most anything else.

Overall weight is what makes the biggest difference when working. Traction is key and weight is key to traction and stability.

I have a friend in Maine who has a Kioti. He is very happy with it.

[Smoke4320]

Farmbif is very correct on the FEL . I have a ford 1910 Model (not year Model) 35 horse (iirc) I purchased in 1987
It has been the best farm purchase I ever made see use it weekly
have moved alot of dirt even built a motorcross track with it. Took many days. hard packed soil will be a bear to dig. Most of the time you will send time loosing it back and forth then you can scoop.

[BJK]

I might add ive been running small tractors(less than 100 hp) pretty much all my life and farm tractors will not move dirt anything like a machine that was built to move dirt. the loaders might have the load capacity but the frames are not built strong enough to drive bucket into a hill and take a scoop. they are basically built for moving loose materials like manure from the barn. when I was much younger I broke a loader frame right in half on a real good size 80hp 4wd tractor trying to dig dirt with it. it took a whole bunch of welding to put it back together.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll use the backhoe to loosen things and scoop up the loose dirt.

On dealers... Yup, that's one of my concerns (service/parts) but I don't know of any small tractors that are made domestically. At least the LS isn't made in China. That would be a deal breaker. I remember a tractor brand made maybe in Romania years ago (Long?). I don't see any dealers anymore.

[jim147]

There are a bunch of them around here. I don't have one I have an old Harry Feguson, before Massey.

I've worked on a couple a/c's but nothing on the rest of the tractor.

The most important thing to me is can you get parts if something fails?

[Mk42gunner]

ive been looking seriously at sub compact 4wd diesel tractors too since I recently sold my big backhoe. there is a local dealer that has the ls , Yanmar's and kioto's
the local rural king has a couple rk24's but the rk25 loader has about 500 lb more lift capacity than the rk24.and none of the rural kings seem to have an rk25 in stock. then there are the Mahindra tractors of which the max26 has the best lift capacity loader. then there is Branson tractor but for me the closest dealer is at least 150 miles down in Georgia .
I'm kind of hesitant to spend so much money on something unless I'm sure of it and that parts and service if needed are readily available
which has me most interested in just shooting the works and go for broke and get a Kubota which is the only one besides John Deere or new holland that will retain its value even if I have to get a used one with a couple hundred hours on it. I really need to start mowing my orchard this year and one of these compact 4wd tractors with a belly mower might be just the ticket, plus a functional loader is always very useful. I refuse to buy a John Deere with electronics just because the way they won't let anyone have the software to diagnose problems, you have to take it to dealer if it has a problem.
if I don't get a Kubota it will probably be one of the tractors that uses a Yanmar engine, they are very reliable and parts are easy to find.

there are a whole bunch of videos on youtube about all of em but most of em I've seen are just some guy bragging about his shiny new tractor. and showing off some work he did with it.

regardless I will still get the old farmall 140 I found online if it is still available.
I've got an old Kubota L175 with a Woods belly mower on it. It does well for a lawn mower, not so well for anything rough or over eight inches tall. At least it did until the injection pump went bad, replacement cost was more than half of what I found another tractor for. Now I just have to move the mower under the new(ish) tractor, and fix all of its electrical problems.

I think the 140 will do better and last longer. I was really looking for an Allis Chalmers B went my buddy traded into the Kubota.

Compact farm tractors with a three point attachment backhoe aren't nearly as good at digging as a real backhoe, but they beat a shovel all to heck.

Robert

[MrWolf]

Get the biggest you can afford. I have a Kubota BX23 with backhoe, loader and forks. Barely lifts the 600 lbs rated for. It has saved my back and I got it to fit inside my fence gates for around the yard and such. Lifting screened topsoil is a strain at times. I bought a cub cadet for grass cutting vs belly mower. Look at the extras like an enclosed cab. I went with cheaper vinyl? cover with plastic shields. No regrets for the money I spent as it does what I need it to when plowing. Got a good plow for it also, manual. Can get fancy later. Nice toy but not a real machine for real work. I am looking for a used backhoe/loader for larger work I want done.. Good luck.
Ron

[Finster101]

I have a Kubota. I'm not going to get in to brands and I don't know the specs on the tractor you are looking at butwith the jobs you want to do I would say four wheel drive is a must.

[redneck1]

When you look at the lift capacity take a look at the front axle weight capacity as well .
As hard as it may be to believe most sub / compact tractors don't have a front axle rated to handle the loads they put on them .
Dealers will do a good job of avoiding the question if you ask .

I don't think anyone would have an issue with breaking an axle , but if you use the loader a lot seals and bearings are a whole nother issue 10 years down line

[Waisting lead]

I will probably have to downsize from what I have now ,but I will keep using it till I can't. It's a 56 Fordson diesel cat.2 ,it's not real high HP but I'm able to keep my roads in shape and plow the garden and all the other things that come up.
Find something that's dependable and parts are available and MOST importantly you like.

[BNE]

I bought two tractors in the last year.

First was a Ford 1910 model year 1985ish. 32 HP. No bucket. Good machine for bush-hogging. But I have no dealer or place to work on it within 50 miles. So when something small broke, I was down for weeks trying to diagnose it and get parts.

There is a Mahindra dealer 2 miles from my property. I did a LOT of research and tried to go buy a 50HP 3000 series from them. There wasn’t one of those in the country! I debated and ended up getting their 62 HP 6000 series. With a grapple, and water filled tires it weighs in at 10,000 pounds. This was one of the best decisions I ever made. Go BIG. I doubt you will regret it.

Weight, 4WD, power steering, local service, are more important than horse power or brand in my opinion.

BNE.

[Blanket]

The LS is a decent tractor, they make New Holland tractors in the same size range. The regeneration on the diesel has been a problem but is the same as all tier tractors. Me I would look at Mahindra. By the way still happy with my 1982 2640 Deere

[Slahp]

My brother and I have a LS 25 HP for about 3 years without any problems. Sets in an unheated shed and never has failed to start in Illinois winters. We have a grapple we use to pickup brush most of the time and it runs great. We have a good local dealer about 2 miles away.
It is the same as a New Holland but a lot less $.

[BJK]

Thanks everyone. In response to some of the comments I can remember...

>I'm not made of money and to get a really big tractor gets really expensive really fast. It's not like this will be a right off on taxes or earn me any $.
> It is a 4x4. I'll probably also put chains on it in the winter. I live in Maine and we can get lots of snow and ice.
> I'll check on the front axle, good idea. Thanks.

[dverna]

I bought it's bigger brother...XR4140 with cab and HST two years ago and could not be happier. I treaded a JD 855 and there is no comparison.

Think hard about the backhoe. A lot of money for something that you will have stored most of the time. And it is not something I would store outside in the elements. I have 20 acres and it is cheaper and more efficient for me to contract out backhoe work.

I added a Piranha bar to the FEL and it is a worthwhile addition for light digging and getting rid of brush/sapplings.

I use mine primarily for firewood processing, snow removal, road maintenance and food plots.

If I were you, I would look at a cabbed XR3000 series machine. Cabs are great in the winter, summer and if you have dusty conditions. They offer protection from bugs as well. Cabs in the woods can be a PITA though. Many folks who buy a tractor end up upgrading in a couple of years....not many people say, "Wish I had got a smaller machine".

Most important is the dealer. Mine is superb. I think the Kioti is good choice too but I had no dealer close enough to me. IMO Kubota is the best, but my dealer was awful and they are pricy. I saved over $8000 with the LS and that bought a lot of attachments.

BTW, SSQA is a given. My most used attachments are pallet forks, grapple, blade and landscape rake.

Make up a spread sheet of tasks you will do yearly and the "one time" and infrequent tasks. When I did that, I realized I had less than $1500 of backhoe work. One last comment on the BH....nice to have for sure. But if you look at used "small" machines you will find them almost unused or beat to hell.

Good luck!!

[10x]

I have a Case / IH 585, 2wd with loader, 3 point blade, 3 point brush hog, and 56 Carrara roto tiller. 4wd would be nice
The hydrolics control valves are abysmal, there is no such thing as precision bucket work or grading with the bucket.
My neighbor has a Kubota 4wd - about 45 hp, with bucket , back hoe, blade, roto tiller, rough cut mower and finishing mower.
The tires on the Kubota need an up grade, The 12" joy stick hydrolic control valve lever is nice but any rough ground degrades precision control.
The forward reverse rocker pedal is on the same side as the individual wheel brakes. - this gets awkward in tight spots. WOuld be better on the left hand side

Talk to the folks who own and use these tractors and if you get the chance use one yourself. I have used various small tractors for over 60 years. They work well if you do not try to use them for tasks beyond their HP. traction, or gearing

[GregLaROCHE]

I’ve had good experience with Yanmar motors. If you are counting on using front forks for lifting much and that’s a big advantage of a tractor, make sure the tractor can SAFELY lift that load. Make sure the accessories you may want are available and are easy to attach.

[thxmrgarand]

I've had a small 4WD Yanmar tractor, that came with Yanmar FEL and BH, for about 20 years. It was built for the US market. The first owner was the local city government, and I bought it on sealed bid when it had about 550 hours. Mostly it has moved snow, but also I have dug out a few leaking USTs to fill in the hole with dirt/sand, pulled a Ford V-8 with the BH, heeled and moved a hot tub, towed cars and trucks, all as favors for neighbors. It is tiny and I go easy on it. Just bought all new hydraulic hoses, (Discount Hose, great people, $580 delivered to AK), bought new FEL hydraulic controller years ago, and that is it apart from oil, hyd fluid and filters. I have never owned anything else as bullet proof as it has been. Intelligent design. It's built like Colt built my Trooper in 1955. While it would be OK were it bigger the small size allows me to get into very tiny places to work it. In some respects horsepower is over-emphasized. I helped my grandfather farm when I was a kid, and he did everything with a Farmall C for 30 milking head including producing enough hay to get them through long winters. I doubt that Farmall had 20 honest horses, probably less. Today people would think they need 45 horses or more for 300 acres and those chores. A BH is the handiest and most useful implement for a subcompact tractor. I have picked up a brush hog and a belly mower when they came very inexpensively. All that said, I bought a Bobcat skid steer first of this year that had 250 hours. Needed to buy it from the widow of the fellow who has been plowing neighbors out around here, and somebody had to keep that going. It happened to have a 56 horse Kubota. I have put 25 hours plowing snow (plowed today in fact), and I must admit to liking the cab and the heater - perhaps because of my 3 score and 11 years. My brother has owned a number of Kubotas, and he has been around Kioti and Mahindra, but he just bought a late-model (but not Tier IV) Yanmar, 35 horse, with BH and FEL, 50 hours, as his retirement tractor. We have a Bobcat dealer here of mixed reputation, but much better than nothing, and he's a Republican. From here to the nearest dealer in anything else requires several hundred miles by boat or jet aircraft. People I trust say that the Tier IV on small diesels is about where autos were with pollution control in 1971; they don't have it figured out very well yet. Youtube is a real asset with any equipment I own however. If you are as careful with fuel on your small diesel as a guy must be with fuel on his Cessna 185 or his Supercub you may go for years with no engine problem. That is all I know.

[BJK]

Thanks

[GregLaROCHE]

Kubotas have a good reputation for small Diesel engines.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I have an old 1980 Kubota that has given no problems, seals on front end hydraulic controller do leak now but are original. For digging with the front loader bucket, adding teeth can make a big difference. Set-up on a bar that can be bolted to the bucket or welded solid depending on your needs/usage.fast. Check what tractors your local rental outfits are using to see what are probably the most reliable/repairable brands.

[lightman]

On small tractors there is probably not a wrong answer. A good dealer close to you is more important. I just sold a 6800 Kubota and I was happy with it.

[Froogal]

IF I was looking for a compact or sub-compact tractor, I would be seriously considering a Kubota. I was around a few of them several years ago, helping with initial set-up and such, and I was favorably impressed with how they are built.

[Cast10]

Tractorbynet is your friend……

I’ve been looking at compact models for a while. 35-45 HP. Im leading towards the 42 hp model, non-hydro.

LS is a good tractor. They make them for Case and New Holland. I have a local dealer close to my ranch. I went over and looked at them and even ran one. I couldn’t tell the difference in them or a New Holland. Little cosmetics are the only difference. They were using third party engines until recently and now have their own. Don’t like the tier3/tier4 emissions, but oh well……When I get ready, LS for me. Also, because of the licensing in New Holland/CASE, if for some reason LS goes down or can’t get parts, New Holland/CASE will have them. They have to guarantee them so many years of parts for each model.
Best of luck on your decision!

[BJK]

Thanks guys. That's all been put on indefinite hold.

[Lloyd Smale]

IF I was looking for a compact or sub-compact tractor, I would be seriously considering a Kubota. I was around a few of them several years ago, helping with initial set-up and such, and I was favorably impressed with how they are built.

ive blown snow with a small 4x4 Kubota for years. Honestly its all i do with it. It has been absolutely flawless and if you knew my area youd know we get serious snow. Neighbor has a larger new holland and swears by that one and he actually USES his. Dont know enough about them to make a claim that its the best or some other is but i know this one has worked. I think most of this is just another ford vs chev vs dodge thing. Id do some research and see whats available in your area and ask around as to what dealer was the best to deal with when things do break and buy that brand.

[pworley1]

If this will be your only tractor, I agree with the "get the biggest you can afford advice", but if not, the one you are thinking about will be great. We have 100+ hp tractors and a full size backhoe for big jobs, but our little LS 4wd with loader is the handiest little tractor we have ever had. Just don't try to drive it with the bucket loaded and raised, it's light weight makes it very top heavy.

[Nazgul]

I have run my JD 5205 with 6' bucket for 8 years on our small farm, mostly wooded. Moved a lot of felled trees with it, longest was 78'. Can't say enough about it. It was bigger than I needed but was a great price, only 1400 hrs on it when I bought it.

I have a log boom, solid stainless, free from a friend who was a welder at a customer. Added a 6'mower last year, also have a 7' scraper blade. Was given a cultivator that needs some TLC. Looks like a bearing or 2 and some welding should make it useable.

This has saved me untold hours of work. It is true about the weight in the bucket. It is easy to get too much wet dirt in it. Just go slow, make 2-3 loads instead of one big one.

Don

[georgerkahn]

A fellow who used to work with me (albeit different departments) had one, and his difficulty was mainly in getting ANYTHING to fit. I do not recall particulars (if I ever in fact did know them?) but I do recall he bought a BX-Expanded attachment and had to take it to a welding shop for fabrication/modification to fit his LS. I was never on it, and only saw his photos so I cannot offer any "real" 'ratings'. ;)
One very important note a John Deere dealer pointed out to me is that "99.9%" use "canoe spec's re capacity". I took the bait and inquired what canoes may have to do with tractors, to which he answered, "Nothing!". However, he added an important spec to many portage in mind canoe purchasers is the craft's weight. In the brochure will be printed, say, "49.62 pounds." BUT, after you buy it you can barely lift it to your truck top. Huh? The weight is the hull/shell weight: no gunnels, seats, etc., etc., etc...
Similarly, with many tractor spec's there is a similarity. The purchaser surely will want the greatest FEL lift capacity, right? So, that's what in the spec sheet. HOWEVER, what is generally published is the machine capacity at maximum hydraulic pressure flow, at the bucket hook-up, at maximum height point, without any bucket attached! Sooo, again generally, if you SUBTRACT the weight of the bucket plus 10% from the published lift... you get MUCH closer to the true lift capacity!
Using my Kubota BX25DBL-1's FEL to lift roofing shingles -- as much as I truly LOVE my machine -- I quickly learned Kubota apparently uses "canoe" descripts.
Good luck, regardless -- my Kubota is everything from my "wheelbarrow", up! My only regret is not having purchased a tractor earlier in life! Now set up for moving desolation dust (aka snow) -- I've attached a photo of mine.293263
geo

[Rapier]

I live in tractor country. I have seen a lot of different makes and models. The older tractors, in good shape, without the ecology crap on them, are in high demand. That mess will shut the tractor down, takes 15-20 minutes of down time to burn the catalytic converter out, etc. My 45 hp 4x4 Kubota costs more today than it did 11 years ago, not bad at all for a farm tool.
Do not listen to the sales, it can pick up at he pins, the axles and frame must support the FEL lift weight. It takes a good frame to lift and move weight, especially on rough ground.
I have a backet, rooot rake with a grapple and a back-hoe. The bucket on the FEL digs faster than anything, The root rake with grapple is worth its weight in gold. If you know how to dig and push, the back-hoe is great for trenchng. Snow is a four letter word in FL.[smilie=s:
A diesel lives on clean air, clean oil, regular grease and good fuel.

[Lloyd Smale]

A fellow who used to work with me (albeit different departments) had one, and his difficulty was mainly in getting ANYTHING to fit. I do not recall particulars (if I ever in fact did know them?) but I do recall he bought a BX-Expanded attachment and had to take it to a welding shop for fabrication/modification to fit his LS. I was never on it, and only saw his photos so I cannot offer any "real" 'ratings'. ;)
One very important note a John Deere dealer pointed out to me is that "99.9%" use "canoe spec's re capacity". I took the bait and inquired what canoes may have to do with tractors, to which he answered, "Nothing!". However, he added an important spec to many portage in mind canoe purchasers is the craft's weight. In the brochure will be printed, say, "49.62 pounds." BUT, after you buy it you can barely lift it to your truck top. Huh? The weight is the hull/shell weight: no gunnels, seats, etc., etc., etc...
Similarly, with many tractor spec's there is a similarity. The purchaser surely will want the greatest FEL lift capacity, right? So, that's what in the spec sheet. HOWEVER, what is generally published is the machine capacity at maximum hydraulic pressure flow, at the bucket hook-up, at maximum height point, without any bucket attached! Sooo, again generally, if you SUBTRACT the weight of the bucket plus 10% from the published lift... you get MUCH closer to the true lift capacity!
Using my Kubota BX25DBL-1's FEL to lift roofing shingles -- as much as I truly LOVE my machine -- I quickly learned Kubota apparently uses "canoe" descripts.
Good luck, regardless -- my Kubota is everything from my "wheelbarrow", up! My only regret is not having purchased a tractor earlier in life! Now set up for moving desolation dust (aka snow) -- I've attached a photo of mine.293263
geo

same little one i have.

[Finster101]

My DT series Kubota is still going strong. It's an 04. It is for sale though. I just don't need that big of a tractor any more and started looking at the sub-compact models. Something that still has a loader and that I can put a belly mower on. I don't like bushhogs to mow. Too much clearance needed to make a turn especially with a loader on the front. Looking at John-Deere and Kubota. No new one till the old one is gone though.

[megasupermagnum]

My DT series Kubota is still going strong. It's an 04. It is for sale though. I just don't need that big of a tractor any more and started looking at the sub-compact models. Something that still has a loader and that I can put a belly mower on. I don't like bushhogs to mow. Too much clearance needed to make a turn especially with a loader on the front. Looking at John-Deere and Kubota. No new one till the old one is gone though.

My brother has a Mahindra sub-compact, and it came with the belly mower. It seems to do a decent job mowing, although I'm no expert. We have beat the snot out of that thing moving dirt around the farm, mostly fixing roads, but also built a little bridge over the creek. No it doesn't tear right into sold ground easily, but once exposed, it will dig dirt and gravel with no trouble. He doesn't have a roto-tiller. Instead he mounted a plow blade on the 3 point hitch. We used that, and a smaller old disc to do a food plot last year. I imagine a roto-tiller would be even less strain on the tractor. I'm impressed with it. I can't imagine a tougher little unit that can be towed so well.

[jonp]

For the majority of homeowners or weekend woodlot guys I can't see someone needing much more than 25-30HP. 4wd is nice but a set of chains and common sense will get you far. We never had a 4wd on the dairy farm in VT. Just a set of chains and liquid in the tires. Plowed snow in the winter and cut pulp ok. However, I won't own a pickup without 4wd because when you need it you really need it. Tractor if I could find one at the right price I'd go for 4wd every time.

[Lloyd Smale]

For the majority of homeowners or weekend woodlot guys I can't see someone needing much more than 25-30HP. 4wd is nice but a set of chains and common sense will get you far. We never had a 4wd on the dairy farm in VT. Just a set of chains and liquid in the tires. Plowed snow in the winter and cut pulp ok. However, I won't own a pickup without 4wd because when you need it you really need it. Tractor if I could find one at the right price I'd go for 4wd every time.

how do you fill tires with liquid? My little tractor is borderline in deep snow even with 4x4 but then i havent bought chains either. It has suit case weights on the back and this year i added a couple 50lb ingots of lead strapped on it but honestly we havent had enough snow yet to see if it helped. Hate to use chains because the neighbor i blow out has blacktop and last summer i blacktopped both of my driveways so my blacktop is new.

[William Yanda]

how do you fill tires with liquid?-Lloyd
Farm tire specialists are equipped to use a calcium solution. I have heard that windshield washer solution is an alternative. Downside of calcium solution is the corrosive effect on steel rims if it leaks.

[Finster101]

My tractor has filled tires in the rear I don't believe they do the fronts, at least not on the smaller tractors. I have used the 4WD many times where I'm at. It gets very wet in the summer and for soil we basically just have sand.

[Plate plinker]

I might add ive been running small tractors(less than 100 hp) pretty much all my life and farm tractors will not move dirt anything like a machine that was built to move dirt. the loaders might have the load capacity but the frames are not built strong enough to drive bucket into a hill and take a scoop. they are basically built for moving loose materials like manure from the barn. when I was much younger I broke a loader frame right in half on a real good size 80hp 4wd tractor trying to dig dirt with it. it took a whole bunch of welding to put it back together.

Good advice.
Very true I have noticed more than one boom with a repair weld. We have to dig gingerly to avoid that. Lucky for me I live on a pile of sand.

I like Yanmar stuff good solid engines.

Currently running a FORD 1920 4x4. Good tractor. Built in Japan its a Shindawa, unfortunately the 4x4 engagement gave out. A simple part that cost $400+ dollars. I almost repaired the old one but didnt have the time so that was that I paid New Holland for the reengineered parts. Beyond that it is a worker. Currently maintaining 5.5 acres with it. If I buy any more land it will be necessary to upgrade to a larger tractor. +1 on a Cab. ohh do I wish!

[Finster101]

Lloyd, I would check with your tractor shop on the tires. You need the correct solution and the correct amount. They are only filled about 70% with liquid I think. In a smaller tractor that may not be enough weight to justify it.

[jonp]

Lloyd, ask the tractor shop to make sure the solution is correct for your northern location. Yes, back tires.

[Lloyd Smale]

i know the big dozers that moved coal at the power plant i worked at in the early 80s had liquid in there tires but they sure werent full. I was told it was done for balance. did just order a set of chains. Couple times last year i struggled a bit in bad storms Never got stuck but it added time to the blowing. I dont use this tractor for anything but snow blowing.

[kenton]

There are a bunch of videos on youtube on how to fill tractor tires with fluid. Most DIY ers use windshield washer fluid but make sure it is rated for your climate. Also, make sure to leave some air, usually 30% minimum if I remember correctly. You need to to allow the tires to adsorb the bumps and what not.

[Handloader109]

Funny, really old thread being resurrected...... A couple of points, specifications on tractors is nice, but all overrated. I've a 25 hp TYM made for cabelas. FEL will pick up more that the original TYM FEL, (woods made it and the tiller I have) But 1600 pounds a 25 hp ain't gonna pick up. In a small tractor, 4 wheel drive is mandatory if you have any grade, I'd never fool with chains when a lever makes it go and not spin. And chains won't work in mud very well. Expect to need to put something on the rear if lifting hardly anything. My 400 pound tiller is a great rear weight if I have room to maneuver. Otherwise it gets real tippy. Yanmar makes a good diesel.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[Finster101]

Handloader, yeah it's an old thread but who doesn't like talking tractors?

[wildwilly501]

If you are buying new and getting a loader to push snow make sure its wider than the tractor most are about the same width as the tractor.Get one a foot wider 6 inches on each side.Do not even consider a 2 wd in a smaller tractor.As far as brands we have a Mahindra at work I would rate them at the bottom of the list it has 1500 hours I put nearly all of them on it.It hasn't been too bad lately but for the first year it spent more time in the shop than at work.The worst thing was the months long wait for parts and this was before covid.

[Lloyd Smale]

solved my traction problmes. Only time it stuggled at all was backing up inclines that were slippery. It already had suit case weights on it so i took a ratchet strap and strapped a 50lb lead ingot on top of them and ordered a set of rear chains. Its about unstoppable now.

[Screwbolts]

If you add fluid to your tires front or back it matters if they are tubeless or with tubes. If with tubes there should be no metal contact so corrosion is not a big concern. in many parts of the country due to tyranny they no longer can use calcium chloride solution in tires. there are several alternative but none of the same efficient density weight. If tubeless it is recommended that the fluid level be fill to above the rim so the rim is always in fluid and not air contact, the air space left in the tires is for tire flex as it doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize if 100 percent fill then the tires would be as hard as rocks and there would be no flex or give. fluid does not compress. some thing are so self evident!

any fluid used in tires will add pounds for more traction but will also be harder on the tires for any type of fluid will cause tires to be less forgiving to hazards they might roll over.

For longest life of both tires and rims bolted on or weights will be easier on the tires and can be removed and stored when not need for less soil compaction when max traction is not needed.

My, 68, JD 1020 has 13.6 x28 rear tires and have fluid in them. because of repair and replacement over the years they are not both filled to same level. I still add extra weights for snow removal by hanging 6 100 lbs suit case style front end weights on the 3 pt hitch arms in front of the lift links, 3 on a side. they hook over the flat lift arms the same as they would hook over the flat steel front weight support .

what ever works for you.

[Ed K]

I might add ive been running small tractors(less than 100 hp) pretty much all my life and farm tractors will not move dirt anything like a machine that was built to move dirt. the loaders might have the load capacity but the frames are not built strong enough to drive bucket into a hill and take a scoop. they are basically built for moving loose materials like manure from the barn. when I was much younger I broke a loader frame right in half on a real good size 80hp 4wd tractor trying to dig dirt with it. it took a whole bunch of welding to put it back together.

Yes, an old thread but why not?

1. Farmbif is exactly right: I have a 4WD Kubota and 2WD Case 580 and both are about 70-75 HP. The 2WD Case just blows away the Kubota in loader digging performance.

2. I loaded the rears on the Kubota with WW fluid 20 years ago and it has been trouble-free.

[tja6435]

My only input is that next tractor I buy will have a set of pallet forks for the front loader and it’ll be able to lift at least 2000#. It’s a real pain to have to bail out 1300# out of a ton sack of feed/fertilizer so my tractor can lift the 700# left in the super sack.

[MrWolf]

My only input is that next tractor I buy will have a set of pallet forks for the front loader and it’ll be able to lift at least 2000#. It’s a real pain to have to bail out 1300# out of a ton sack of feed/fertilizer so my tractor can lift the 700# left in the super sack.

My Kubota has a lift rating of 600 lbs which is kinda suspect. I have the LA340S and really wish at times it had more horsepower. It's smaller size does come in handy so there are always trade offs. My back tires are filled and the chains make a huge difference especially in the mountains, you need that traction.

Edit. Tractor is the BX23S but loader is the L340S for clarification.

[tja6435]

My Kubota has a lift rating of 600 lbs which is kinda suspect. I have the LA340S and really wish at times it had more horsepower. It's smaller size does come in handy so there are always trade offs. My back tires are filled and the chains make a huge difference especially in the mountains, you need that traction.

There definitely is an upside for a smaller tractor, such as fuel usage. My small tractor is a 1984 John Deere 950, about 23hp but only uses 1.8gal/hr at full throttle. My ‘big’ tractor is a John Deere Model 60 (37hp) and it’ll get stuff done but it drinks closer to 4gal/hr.

I am also in the mountains, I don’t need loaded tires or chains but I really only use the 60 for blading the snow out of the driveway in the winter. The little tractor doesn’t weigh enough to be able to do much with the back blade on a heavy/wet/deep snow.