Warped Ivory Composite Grip “fix?”

[Butzbach]

Folks,

I purchased a set of Ivory composite grips for a K-frame Smith. They are checkered, have the diamonds, and look very nice. Unfortunately when I tightened them up enough to keep them from moving I pulled out the threaded insert. I’ve epoxied that back in but fear that they will crack if I tighten them up enough to keep them from moving.

Any advice?

I was thinking along the lines of a thin flexible liner on one or both sides under each grip panel but I’m open to anything that works.

Let me know.

[Green Frog]

Why are they “moving”? If one or both panels are actually warped , the first thing I would do is try to gently flatten them off the gun. How about warming them in hot water then laying them flat side down on a flat plate (also somewhat warmed) and using a sandbag on top to match to the upper curve(?)

Trying to pull very much curve out if the grip by just tightening in one spot @ the screw will probably just give the same results you have already had.

Good luck,
Froggie

[contender1]

I don't know if it will work in your grips, but I do something to prevent grip screws from pulling through my Ruger SA's.
I install a nylon "spacer" over the grip screw, inbetween the (2) panels, to prevent over tightening the screw. I just make sure the spacer is a few thousands under the dimension of the frame width.

[Butzbach]

Why are they “moving”? If one or both panels are actually warped , the first thing I would do is try to gently flatten them off the gun. How about warming them in hot water then laying them flat side down on a flat plate (also somewhat warmed) and using a sandbag on top to match to the upper curve(?)

Trying to pull very much curve out if the grip by just tightening in one spot @ the screw will probably just give the same results you have already had.

Good luck,
Froggie

I wasn’t thinking of trying to unwarp the grips as the composite (reconstituted) ivory is very hard. If they are warped at all it is only very slightly. I was thinking that some relatively soft spacer material cut in an outline of the entire grip could even out the grip face that contacts the frame and give it better purchase on the entire contact surface.

[Butzbach]

I don't know if it will work in your grips, but I do something to prevent grip screws from pulling through my Ruger SA's.
I install a nylon "spacer" over the grip screw, inbetween the (2) panels, to prevent over tightening the screw. I just make sure the spacer is a few thousands under the dimension of the frame width.

Sounds like that would certainly work to prevent the insert from pulling out might not protect the grips from cracking when tightened enough to keep them from moving.

[onelight]

I don't know if it will work in your grips, but I do something to prevent grip screws from pulling through my Ruger SA's.
I install a nylon "spacer" over the grip screw, inbetween the (2) panels, to prevent over tightening the screw. I just make sure the spacer is a few thousands under the dimension of the frame width.
I have done that also .
I have had grips that came with a spacer like that.

[Mk42gunner]

Might have to epoxy bed the grip panels to the frame. The tough part would be color matching the fake ivory color.

Then make sure you block off mechanical locks with modelling clay and use enough release agent. Probably have to do it one side at a time too.

Robert

[lar45]

How about just sanding the inner surface on some plate glass or a block of granite?
Make them flat, then put them on...

[Green Frog]

How about just sanding the inner surface on some plate glass or a block of granite?
Make them flat, then put them on...

^^^ This ^^^
If there is only a slight irregularity, truing them up in this manner should solve your problem. Otherwise the heat and press method I mentioned should work. Shims are something of a temporary fix and certainly can be less than attractive. Using the spacer in the frame shouldn’t be necessary if the stocks are a true fit to the frame, and won’t make them fit any better if they are off to begin with, it will just prevent over tightening and perhaps exaggerate that condition.

Froggie

If flat panel stocks are so poorly fit they need glass bedding, something is seriously wrong.

[pietro]

.

To keep ANY revolver grip panels from cracking, cut a 1/2" long (or whatever equals the width of the gripframe ) from some 1/4" I.D. metal tubing, to support both grip panels, then run the grip screw through the inside of the tube.

No glue, no fuss, E-Z-Peazy…………

[Butzbach]

.

To keep ANY revolver grip panels from cracking, cut a 1/2" long (or whatever equals the width of the gripframe ) from some 1/4" I.D. metal tubing, to support both grip panels, then run the grip screw through the inside of the tube.

No glue, no fuss, E-Z-Peazy…………

Wouldn't that just make my already not tight enough grips even looser?

[contender1]

"Wouldn't that just make my already not tight enough grips even looser? "


Pietro's post is doing basically the very same thing I mentioned about a spacer. I buy nylon spacers, 1/2" long, hollow, to slip over the screw that joins the grips.
BUT,, as I mentioned,, you file away, or grind away a few thousands of the spacer, to just under the width of the grip frame. That way, it allows you to snug up the panels, WITHOUT adding stress to the screw etc.
If the grips are loose elsewhere,, such as warped etc, then you can do as mentioned above, by sanding them to fit the frame flat.

I have bought many, many Ruger SA grips & guns where a screw was overtightened, and the wood busted, split, or whatever on the inside. I've been able to repair some panels,, but others, I've had to scrap the whole panel. I use these spacers, as a way to prevent this. And yes,, a few top-notch, HIGHLY respected grip makers do add them to their grips when they ship them.