Inkbird ITC100VH PID help

[Sasquatch-1]

I have an Inkbird ITC100VH PID That I can't seem to get set right. Below is a list of the setting that I have in the memory. I set the sensor Calibration to a pot of boiling water.

Melted lead temperature 750 F taken with a insertion thermometer 524 C with PID. According to the conversion chart that should be 975.2 degrees F.

The thermocouple is a Perfect Prime TL1815 K-Type Sensor Probes Metal Head Probe for K-Type Probe Thermocouple Sensor & Meter in Temperature Range from 0 to 800 °C

You can see my problem. [smilie=b:

HiAL Upper Alarm Limit 9999
LoAL Lower Alarm Limit -1999
dHAL Maximum Deviation Alarm 9999
dHAL Minimum Deviation Alarm 9999
dF Hysteresis 0.1
Ctrl Control Output 1
Itergral 540
P Differential 1
t Hysteresis time 120
Ctl Control Period 1
Sn Input Sensor 0
dIP Decimal PointPosition 1
dIL Input Lower Limit 0
dIH Input Upper Limit 1000
SC Sensor Calibration -62.6 (set to boiling water)
oP1 Output mode 0
oPL Output Lower Limit 0
oPH Ouput Upper Limit 100
ALP Alarm Function 0 (No Alarms Hooked Up)
CF System Function 2
Addr Address 1
bAud Baud Rate 9600
dL Input Digital Filter 0
run Run Mode 2
Loc Lock Function 40

[Mike W1]

I don't have an Inkbird nor a manual for one. I gather you just changed the SC value on yours and nothing else. Were it me, in that case I'd set that value back to whatever the factory value was. In the 2 brands I have when you set that parameter to offset a temperature difference between what the unit reads out and what you think it should be it's a lot smaller value than a 62. Usually a couple degrees ±.

Most PIDs generally come set for a K type TC from the factory but generally speaking the few I've dealt with you don't have to do anything but turn them on and run Autotune. Start messing with anything else parameter-wise and unless you're fully versed on PID and operation thereof you're likely gonna have trouble. I'm NOT up on all that knowledge.

750° F is 398.88 something converted to C ° BTW.

There are a couple guys that have mentioned using the Inkbird controllers on the forum and they'll probably chime in with better suggestions but I don't think you can go too far wrong just putting the factory settings back in.

[BMW Rider]

I have this same PID on my Lee 4-20. The only issue I had was with the included thermocouple in the "kit" - it was way off. I bought a new one (uxcell 5x100mm, 600C), and tested it and it was only a few degrees off on boiling water and ice water, so I set the offset to correct for that and it has been good to go since. This guy on youtube does a decent job explaining what all of the parameters do, even though it is for a different inkbird model. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfFGHhs4-t0

[Jim22]

I have the Inkbird ITC-1000F PID controller. Is it similar to the one the OP has?

[NikA]

I agree with other posters that your problem is likely related to your thermocouple. How do you have it wired to the unit? If it's not wired directly, are you using the correct K-type thermocouple extension wiring and is it wired correctly? The physics of thermocouples mean that you can't use any old wiring to attach them to sensing units and expect accurate results.

I believe the 1000F probably displays in Fahrenheit and the 1000VH may be switchable between F and C.

[Mal Paso]

For a couple bucks more: https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

I think Inkbirds are chancy. Guys who get a good one think they are great. I didn't get a good one.

[Sasquatch-1]

I don't know how similar they are So I included pictures of the PID and SSR used.

280126280127

[Sasquatch-1]

I used a section of the thermocouple that came in the package for jumper wires. I ran Positive to positive and negative to negative. I jumped 4 and 5 with the same color wire from the spare thermocouple. Connected them with a panel mount making sure polarity was correct.

280128280129280130

[pastera]

Not all thermocouple wire has the same color coding- from your offset it looks like you have the jumper wires reversed.

Swap the jumpers and retest.

[BMW Rider]

I jumped 4 and 5 with the same color wire from the spare thermocouple.

280128280129280130

Try removing the jumper from 4 to 5, you don't need it for a K-type thermocouple (just #3&4). See section 4.1.1 here https://pmod79883-pic31.websiteonline.cn/upload/ITC-100_Manual_V1.pdf

[Greg S]

Do not shorten the factory thermocouples leades. The resistance in the length the the leade is set at the factory.

[Sasquatch-1]

I tried removing the jumper early on in the process and received an error message.

[Sasquatch-1]

The way I understand the polarity problem is if polarity is reversed I should be seeing the temperature decrease instead of increase. I receive an increasing temperature as the pot heats up, it's just that the error in the reading gets higher the hotter the pot gets.

[Sasquatch-1]

I did not shorten the wires on the thermocouple immersed in the pot. I cut some of the wire off the one that came with the PID and SSR to make the inside the box connection to the outside panel plug.

[BMW Rider]

I tried removing the jumper early on in the process and received an error message.

Squatch, I wouldn't so easily dismiss this point. Perhaps try a reset to factory settings, remove the jumper now that you're "later on in the process", spend $7 and get a new thermocouple, and then see what happens. I have the same unit, my thermocouple is wired to the PID differently, mine works accurately and yours doesn't - which seems to indicate the issue is with the thermocouple (and perhaps the PID). If a new thermocouple combined with reset to factory settings doesn't work, I'd contact Inkbird about getting a replacement PID. Good luck and keep us updated.

[pastera]

The way I understand the polarity problem is if polarity is reversed I should be seeing the temperature decrease instead of increase. I receive an increasing temperature as the pot heats up, it's just that the error in the reading gets higher the hotter the pot gets.

This is true for the section that includes the actual thermocouple.
If you swapped the wire types on the internal cable (from TC connector to PID) but get the polarities correct then you will see a large offset- BTDT

[Sasquatch-1]

OK. I removed the thermocouple from the panel plug and wired it direct to the PID. I removed the jumper wire and now the PID is reading close to room temperature. I don't have time to check it in the lead pot but I will let you know the results. Thankyou everyone for your help.[smilie=w:

[BMW Rider]

OK. I removed the thermocouple from the panel plug and wired it direct to the PID. I removed the jumper wire and now the PID is reading close to room temperature. I don't have time to check it in the lead pot but I will let you know the results. Thankyou everyone for your help.[smilie=w:

Awesome! Glad it is working out for you.

[Mike W1]

Do not shorten the factory thermocouples leades. The resistance in the length the the leade is set at the factory.

First time I've ever read that. Aubers site does mention cutting the cable in their instructions for installing a panel jack which of course wouldn't really change the length. That would of course introduce a couple more connection points which I suppose would introduce some resistance at those places. Reallistically not going to make much difference when controlling a lead pot for our purposes, probably not even noticeable.

[Mike W1]

Just looked at the manual. That jumper stuff on 3,4,5 is for hooking up A PT-100 RTD probe I believe. Your K type TC would be hooked + to 4 and the other side to 3. A simple test would be disconnect the TC and jumper 3 to 4 and you should see the ambient temperature which I believe you are seeing with your probe now. PID is probably good!

On the TC one color code is Yellow/Red and YELLOW IS +. On a Red/Blue TC the RED IS +. Either one would be made with the proper type wire though.

Likely your panel jack you had correctly wired it and it was that dang jumper that wasn't needed giving you the fits.