Springfield XDS 3.3 Bore diameter & Bullet choice

[Horseman]

Hello - I'm contemplating a custom mold order (Accurate Molds 35-125C or 35-125E) for my Springfield XDS 3.3 in 9mm. I'm not sure I'm comfortable slugging my barrel so before I attempt it, I thought I'd ask you fine folks if there are any XDS 9mm owners who have already done so and could share your results. I know it can vary based on reamer age, etc. but hoping I can count on it being consistent enough within that make/model for selecting a mold diameter and sizing die (at ~+0.001).

I'd also be curious if anyone has experience with the two bullets I'm looking at. The 35-125E has a stepped leading band which is advertised to be for guns with "tight throats" which my forum search did reveal may apply to the XDS. I want to be able to use this bullet in other guns - by ordering the 35-125E to ensure function in the XDS, am I compromising anything significant with other guns? I'm guessing maybe a slight reduction in accuracy due to the longer jump to the lands but the way I shoot, I can live with that. Function and avoidance of leading are my primary concerns.

For reference - https://www.accuratemolds.com/catalog.php?page=6#catalog-anchor

Thanks in advance!

[onelight]

I have not used either of those 2 bullets but my XDS 9 worked well with .357 Hi-Tek coated and it did have a tight throat . In mine RN Hi-Tek bullets would have to seated deeper than I wanted and I switched to a bullet with the small shoulder similar to the one you listed. I also used the Lee carbide factory crimp die and have had no leading so have not pulled a boolit to see what the diameter is after running though the crimp die.

[popper]

35-135a with 4gr WST works in my XDs 9 and sig. Size 357.

[Horseman]

Thanks guys, that helps a lot. Popper - I like the looks of that 35-135A. Based on the luck you've had with it in your XDs, I may go that direction. I already have a .358 sizer, would I be foolish to order my mold at .358 with plans to try .358 and move to a .357 sizer if needed? All of my bullet casting has been for revolvers so consideration of bullet shape/size/crimp for semi-auto functioning is new to me. I'd appreciate if you have recommendations on mold dimensions and if I should just get a .357 sizer on order.

[fredj338]

No need to slug the bbl. I have never found a 9mm that didn't shoot well with 0.357" bullets. Like popper, I am a fan of 135gr for gen practice ammo. I wish ammo manuf would make more high end 135gr jhp. It seems a perfect match in mass vs vel.

[Horseman]

Follow-up. The wait was worth it, my Accurate Molds 35-135A showed up about a week ago and it's as beautiful as my other AM's. I went with the 3-cavity aluminum which I find to be a good balance between weight and output rate. The bullets came out perfect starting with the third fill and I didn't have any throwaways through the rest of the couple hundred I poured. Alloy was straight WW plus 1% tin. I lubed with white label BAC and since I can't find a .357 sizer die for my Lyman, I took a chance that my .358 might work. The cases didn't have any noticeable bulge and they cycled fine in my gun. I started out with 3.5 grains of Titegroup and may not need to look much further. At 10 yards, the first 6 shots grouped 2" (I should have stopped at 5 - 1.5" :-)) and averaged 950 fps. About as good as my old eyes can expect with that 3" barrel. I'll probably experiment with WST, Unique, and maybe Bullseye if I ever find any but for now, I'm very pleased. Thanks much to those of you that recommended the AM135-35A.

One question - when I cleaned the gun I did have some tiny flakes of lead on my patch, but no smears and nothing requiring a brush. This is outstanding compared to some of my trials with Ruger SA's and thread constriction but I'm curious, is there any chance sticking with my .358 sizer could cause leading or any other issues? I figured if anything, that oversize bullet would reduce the likelihood of gas cutting. Primers were fine so I don't think I'm pushing pressures but I'm not very familiar with semi-autos, much less with cast bullets so I want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Thanks!

[DougGuy]

You can always have the barrel throated, it pushes the limitations of the throat way on out of the picture, you can plunk anything that will cycle through the magazine provided none of the boolit forward of the case mouth is larger than .358"

[sigep1764]

I think that sizing should be good. When you looked in the barrel, were the flakes at the chamber or muzzle of the barrel?

[Horseman]

I think that sizing should be good. When you looked in the barrel, were the flakes at the chamber or muzzle of the barrel?

I'll need to pay attention after the next range session. I didn't see any of the flakes on initial look down the bore, I only noticed them when I ran a patch down the bore with some Kroil to loosen things up. Accustomed to working the thread area of a revolver bore, I was probably assuming that was where they came from but in hindsight, I think things "felt" a little dirtier at the muzzle.

[Horseman]

50 rounds later, two 9mm Springfields (XDS and Hellcat) both shot well with no failures to feed or issues of any type. Nice groups and upon cleaning, neither barrel showed any signs of leading or excess fouling. Not sure what changed from that first 12-round test but I'll take it. Thanks again to those who shared their thoughts and suggestions.

[sigep1764]

Sometimes the bore needs some conditioning. Now, don't scrub it and see how long you can go. Just run a soaked patch then dry patches. Bet you scrub that bore once a year from now on.