Paper too thin?

[charger 1]

Is there not the risk of paper being so thin that the last layer hangs on in dribs and drabs and throws accuracy?

[leftiye]

Why would thin paper hang on any more than thicher papers would? Thinner will probly cut up more easily, I would expect.

[longbow]

My limited experience is that thick paper shreds in large pieces and thin paper shreds in really small pieces. I usually find chuncks and strips of thick paper but last time I tried thin paper on a larger boolit the pieces were so small they were difficult to find ~ just little blackened crinkles.

Longbow

[montana_charlie]

You choose paper thickness based on the relationship between the naked diameter of your bullet, and the groove depth of your rifling. Though you may start with a patched diameter that is near 'bore', the package will have to bump up to something close to 'groove' to prevent 'passing gas'.

So, if you consider the total thickness of the wraps and the depth of the rifling you get an idea about how far through the paper the land's edges will cut.

If total paper thickness is (say) eight thousandths, but your rifling is only four thousandths deep, the inner layer can't get cut much...if at all. By increasing naked size...and decreasing paper thickness...you get a cut (or deeply scored) inner layer which should fragment well.

I guess it sounds logical to choose a (single layer) paper thickness which is (close to) half the depth of the rifling...and choose a bullet diameter that works well with that kind of paper.
CM

[charger 1]

I guess it sounds logical to choose a (single layer) paper thickness which is (close to) half the depth of the rifling...and choose a bullet diameter that works well with that kind of paper.
CM

Thats exactly what I see starting into this. I dont see all the .001" papers talked about being practical in a standard bore. So it would seem my ignorance is a blessing in as much as its allowed me to not over think it. I just took some 458 RCBS 405 grainers. Swaged em to 451. Did a wrap of .004 printing parchment. Let em dry, soaked em in allox,stuck em on 48 grs of RL7, stuck em in my marlin then stuck em all in one hole. I'm making this simple. Should I be making more? Seriously, not being smart a$$. Only thing I wonder now is best lube for high speed

[docone31]

I run my patches dry. I only use JPW for running through the sizer. I get great results without lube.

[yeahbub]

Only thing I wonder now is best lube for high speed


Charger, in my experience, it seems that if the paper survives being wrapped on, rolled down and stretched tight and having a tail twisted on it, it'll survive being pinched between lead and steel - given that correct diameters are used and the bore is reasonably smooth. As for good lubes, I've used a number of them successfully. Smearing on some soft homemade or commercially available lubes worked okay, particularly for sizing after patching. Lee liquid alox painted on after seating in the case makes for a weather-resistant arrangement and serves well at 2500+ fps, and Docone31's method of a bare patch or anointing it with paste wax also works well. (Some slow polishing of the bore will also take place if it's car wax of the "cleaner" type, which contains flour-fine diatomaceous earth to scrub dirt and oxides off the car's finish. It should say on the label. A great way to shine up a heat-scored throat in a mil-surp rifle.) The best one I've yet to come up with is to wrap a layer of teflon thread tape over the paper and run it through the sizer. This irons the teflon into the paper and produces a very durable assembly. A faint trace of something soft, like Thompson/Center 1000 Plus, Crisco or something similar will generally eliminate the chances of the tape slipping as it is sized. This allows me to crack them out there at max jacketed lvelocities. The last time a chronograph was available, I was getting 2800+ fps out of a 1909 Arg. using the Lyman 311467. That was a little faster than my alloy was able to endure, so accuracy wasn't all I hoped for, but the velocity was certainly there. Fine accuracy came back when velocity was backed off. The same technique also works very well in a .375 Win. using the Lyman 375248 cast of air-cooled WW.

[pdawg_shooter]

The only time I have trouble with thin paper is with Marlin microgroove rifling. Problems ended when I went to 12# paper. The rule of thumb is weight divided by three times the number of wraps. 16# divided by 3 times 2 = .010. This varies with witch way you cut the paper, how tight you wrap ite bullet and the paper itself. It will be close.