Forming 260 rem brass

[papalote]

What is the best brass to start with, that could be found now?

[Texas by God]

I would say .243 Winchester.

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[Eddie Southgate]

I would say .243 Winchester.

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Absolutely . Unless you really like turning necks , then you can use .308 and turn away .

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Pricey - but I have seen Lapua 260 Rem available at the Cheyenne Sportsman' Warehouse, could be a low demand item. 308/7.62x51 is probably cheapest available, 243, 7-08 might show up, anything else - '06, 270, 280 are real work to reform to 260.

[RedlegEd]

What is the best brass to start with, that could be found now?
Hi,
As TBG said, .243 is probably the easiest to reform, but why not just buy it from Starline at this link? (https://www.starlinebrass.com/260-remington). Yes, it's more expensive than reforming .243 or .308, but it's brand new, high quality brass. I was reforming mine from .308 and got tired of turning necks, so I just bought 250 from Starline and I'm all set.
Ed

[papalote]

Thanks, redleg but i don't need 250 cases. I will try the 243 cases. i think i have a neck expander for 264..

[M-Tecs]

it's in stock here

https://www.powdervalleyinc.com/product/lapua-260-rem-100/

https://www.brownells.com/reloading/brass/rifle-brass/260-remington-brass-prod138200.aspx?msclkid=85af48634e8715d425002825e8 c70a43

[1hole]

What is the best brass to start with, that could be found now?

Lupua .260. Of course where it can be found varies day by day and my weekly report on its availability has not yet arrived. ???? ;)

I've been known to reform a lot of cases on the popular .473" head and I greatly prefer to neck cases down than up. If your rifle has a standard SAAMI chamber it's likely you could neck down 7-08 - or even .308 - and not need to turn anything at all.

[BK7saum]

I would try 7-08. I prefer to make shoulder out of neck, not neck out of shoulder and get a donut.

However, I need to build a .260. Have brass, dies, and bullets etc, but no rifle to shoot them in. That happens when you come across cheap like new redding dies and heavily discounted brass, and think, "Someday, I'd like to build a .260."

I have several sets of "someday" dies, just waiting on the day.

[jim 44-40]

I might have some once fired 260 brass, give me couple hours I'll check

[Mk42gunner]

I'd rather neck brass down than up. That way when your wife's cousin's brother's nephew's friend sticks one of your reloads in his gun, there isn't any blown up rifle for him to want you to pay for. "But it said .243 on the headstamp."

Robert

[Texas by God]

I'd rather neck brass down than up. That way when your wife's cousin's brother's nephew's friend sticks one of your reloads in his gun, there isn't any blown up rifle for him to want you to pay for. "But it said .243 on the headstamp."

RobertIf that guy can chamber a .260 in a .243, he's strong enough to not get hurt......[emoji16]

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[Eddie Southgate]

If that guy can chamber a .260 in a .243, he's strong enough to not get hurt......[emoji16]

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Amen ! As far as that is concerned why would it make a difference if it says .243 or .308 ? It's still gonna be a .260 . Necking down requires turning necks in almost all cases , necking up , not .

[Mk42gunner]

Point taken, but there are other cases that have closer calibers than the .308 family. Like the -06 family, I have had at the same time a 25-06 and a 6.5-06. Rounds that can look remarkably similar and since the 6.5 is more or less a wildcat (I know it was standardized by A-Square, but they're not around any longer) most people have never even heard of it.

I form my brass from .30-06 just for those oops instances. It fits my chamber without neck turning.

If I ever get around to making a .358 Norma mag, the brass will be formed from milsurp .300 Win Mag, no caliber head stamp to worry about.

Robert

[M-Tecs]

Point taken, but there are other cases that have closer calibers than the .308 family. Like the -06 family,

?????? Like what?

Only one that I can think of might be a 8mm-08. 25-08 or 25 Souper has been around since the late 50's

[NikA]

I formed .260 Rem brass from .308. I did not find it necessary to turn necks with my chamber. Possibly if the rifle in question has a match chamber, but then you might be turning necks for consistency anyway.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I've formed .243 from .308 without need for neck turning/reaming. Resized necks measured .276 (that is correct for the .243), worked fine in several .243's. Depends on rifle, but worth a try in the .260 Rem.

[Skipper]

I think it would be more fun to just fireform the 243

[1hole]

If that guy can chamber a .260 in a .243, he's strong enough to not get hurt......[emoji16]

I get your point and fully agree; it would require a lot of brute strength and weak mind to close the bolt on a .260 round in a .243 chamber. (But ... but ... the precaution sounds so "wise"! ;) )

[ebb]

Ive done it both ways and believe me 243 up is better and easier. I picked up a bunch of Fed GMM and ran it in a 260 die but the necks were thick and the OAL was too long. Neck don't get thicker with 243.

[blue32]

When I shot at a public range I used to scrounge the brass buckets for 243 around deer season. Nothing is closer to free 260 cases than 243 pickups. One pass into the neck sizer and done.

[Defcon-One]

It may be .243 Win, but I had no luck finding any at reasonable prices and I hate having formed brass with the "wrong" head stamp (ie: .260 Rem brass that says .243 Win).

My solution was to go with cheap and easily found military 7.62x51mm brass. I chose Federal with the FC 18 head stamp because I had a lot around already, so it is basically free. I imagine that most any brand will work!

I resize it in an RCBS 7mm-08 die to start the neck and push back the shoulder, since I have one, remove the crimp then resize it again in the RCBS .260 Rem die to finish the neck and finish the shoulder. Then I just trim to length, turn the necks and anneal them.

I get good quality .260 Rem brass for nothing but the labor and the head stamp is not an issue with the military brass. I have never had an issue and my standard Remington 700 bolt guns will even handle them without turning the neck. I do that mostly for uniformity and just incase one winds up in the DPMS G2 pig gun.


What is the best brass to start with, that could be found now?

[ackleyman]

If you are necking/down federal brass, pre prepared for premature primer pocket expansion due to soft case heads. I avoid Federal brass like the Plague.

Necking down Lake City brass is best, and neck turn. LC is some very, very tough brass as most know. You still have to do your QC with LC brass with off center primer pockets and de burr the inside of the flash hole. There is some German brass made by Hertenberger in Germany that is very, very tough. Buy all you can get if you find any.

The 260 Rem runs real high pressures where it really like to shoot bug holes. So, approach your project knowing you will be pushing the limits on your brass Rockwell Hardness.

Necking up can result in thinner necks, which can cause somewhat looser bullet grip on the bullet. Necking down also has it's issues as necks get real thick. Dies are set up for a certain neck thickiness, and when you neck down, you are in effect making your inside dia of the neck smaller. This may put a very, very tight grip on the bullet causing pressures to spike somewhat vs regular brass set up for the cartridge. The use of Bushing dies or a Lee collet die with various sizes of mandrels purchased from McMaster Carr can give very good results with formed brass.

Brass does not flow evenly in the necks when forming up and down, and often for a guy looking for the very best accuracy will want to neck turn.

If/when doughnuts appear at the shoulder neck junction from necking up/down, K & P makes a carbide 4 flute cutter that will remove the doughnut post haste. The doughnut if not removed will cause pressure spikes as it acts as a crimp on the bullet, with the additional malfunction of ruined accuracy being the icing on the cake.

I use a fabulous set of dies made by Paul Bike, I can not say enough about Paul's form dies. I form all kinds of cases from 308 and 30/06.

The use of Lapua Palma brass with the small primer pocket sets you up to run some high pressures where the top end accuracy node maybe in many cases. F class shooters are running 200g bullets at some amazing speeds with the small primer pocket brass because more brass in the case head in conjunction of really tough brass makes for a Super combination.

For guys that are worried about mistaking case head markings with other calibers, a simple technique of dipping the case in bluing solution for about 1/4 way up the case will turn the case BLACK, and this stays on for a long time. Re dip as needed to set your mind at ease. You can dip either end to indicate separate calibers. Point being, a dipped blackened case needs special attention.

[ackleyman]

Lapua brass is worth every penny you pay for it, get it while you can before Uncle Joe outlaws the import of the Lapua brass.