Ok what was the problem here ?

[Wolfdog91]

279102

So had asked on a FB casting group is my mold was filling out enough and according to alot of people only like two of my bases where acceptable.ive been gas checking so haven't really though they looked that bad but guess not. Anyhow anyone wanna give me some advice on with the problem could be ?
Lee .225 6cav mold ( it's a used mold and is a little rough )
Molds been heated in a hot plate for 20 or so minutes prior to use.
Used mold so is a little dinged up
Lead is 100% clip on wheel weights. Actually more like 95 because I did add a two ingots that's had a bit of stick o WW mixed in
Lead temp was 750-800
Was fluxing about every time I saw the lead get out of that mirror silver color

I was cutting the sprew as soon as I saw the lead change to that dull grey color like I've been told. And I think that's it for details.

I had some people telling me it looked like my sprew plate had called my molds surface and I should hone it. Also had some more people say I should lube my stuff better.

I went and filed, then sanded all the touching surfaces down level with 320 -1000 grit sand paper ends up the mold wasn't flush completely ( least that what I gleaned from using my straight edged to check) the sprew plate was also bent up slightly so it wasn't cutting even.
279103

I'll post some more pictures of what I did to the mold but before that what could have been the problem?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Most likely, lack of sprue plate lube.
Without lube, the aluminum galls, which lift the sprue plate.
when you removed the sprue plate, did you see galling near the pivot bolt area?

Another possibility, is the sprue plate getting bent from cutting a cold sprue (requiring excessive force) while not pulling straight on the sprue handle...usually that will snap the cam lever (don't ask me how I know).

[Wolfdog91]

Most likely, lack of sprue plate lube.
Without lube, the aluminum galls, which lift the sprue plate.
when you removed the sprue plate, did you see galling near the pivot bolt area?

Another possibility, is the sprue plate getting bent from cutting a cold sprue (requiring excessive force) while not pulling straight on the sprue handle...usually that will snap the cam lever (don't ask me how I know).

Yes ! Was pretty bad to honest. Seems like the the whole corner of the mold was slanted slightly next to the sprew plate. I tried shading it level but after about a hour seem like j just made it worse so I moved moved the bolt to the other end of the mold ( the hole where the third hand is usually connected) and seems like its much better

[Winger Ed.]

If you get to sanding on one, use the real fine wet or dry sand paper, and put it over a sheet of glass,
or something that will keep it truely flat. Put a little water or real thin oil on it too.
That keeps stuff from 'balling up' under, or clogging it.

Lots of guys swear by keeping a little drop of two-stroke oil on top of the mold block too.
It doesn't take much, just wipe it with a oiled Q tip.

I haven't had to do much work on molds, and all I have is Iron ones--- when I do-
I consider 400 grit wet or dry as the most violent I want to get with them.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Yes ! Was pretty bad to honest. Seems like the the whole corner of the mold was slanted slightly next to the sprew plate. I tried shading it level but after about a hour seem like j just made it worse so I moved moved the bolt to the other end of the mold ( the hole where the third hand is usually connected) and seems like its much better

While I consider myself pretty handy, I am also a bit of a hamfist with tasks like filing or sanding, if I don't have the correct tools/supplies. Sounds like your solution to swap the hinge bolt location is a success, that's good. I have found it's easy to turn a Lee mold into scrap aluminum if I fiddle with it too much with incorrect hand tools.

There is a few threads here about lubing the Sprue plate, be sure to read through them...it's makes a world of difference.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?138223-sprue-plate-and-mold-Lubrication

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I offer my opinion in post #18
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?351349-sprue-plate-lube&p=4249805&viewfull=1#post4249805

[Mitch]

Sanding a mold flat is something that may be harder than it look s to keep evein.Not just flat,you can be flat but still be out of quare with the cavitys of the mold.check you bullets for weight and length to see how you did sading or measure you mold top to bottom and see if one end or side is off.one other thing is if yoir mold have were alined this could be from the mold being warped or the alinement pis being worne or not set right.if this is the case you will see the bullet halves missmatched.I hope you did just fine with it but just in case theses are some of the things to look for.the good thing is you are learning on a lesser priced mold.The bad news is if you want a new mod right now they are hard to find and the custom mold makes are realy busy right now and the lead time are getting longer.

[Wolfdog91]

Yeah it's some kinda irritating to say the least but 2 years of auto boat and sanding bondo have gotten me pretty used to this, honestly if it wasn't for for these things apparently being worth $150 buck now for some reason I would have just bought a new one
But hay I like tedious little projects lol. Went from a file to 80-120-180 -1000
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[Larry Gibson]

Now, slightly bevel or round off the edges of the mould and sprue plate. Then lube the top of the mould and the top/bottom of the sprue plate with a mould prep lube. Do not get the lube in the cavities. A #2 Carpenter pencil can be used in lieu of the mould prep. Just scribble the graphite "lead" all over the top of the mould and top/bottom of the sprue plate.

[Old Caster]

WolfDog, I don't remember where I bought them but steel sprue plates that are available work way better than the originals. I looked on line to find them and I remember he also made steel levers so you don't have to worry about breaking the Lee model. If I remember correctly the guy was also on this forum. Maybe someone reading this can give you a heads up. At the time I thought the price was very good considering how well they were made.

[Conditor22]

A VS out of Canada sells them, I think it KAL Tools

[Dusty Bannister]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?138-KAL-Tool-amp-Die

Red River Rick is the vendors name.

[FLINTNFIRE]

Kal tools are some fine plates I bought some awhile ago from him , a pleasure to deal with .

[Old Caster]

Thanks for posting this as now I remember it was Kal tools.

[Jniedbalski]

I almost ruined a mold when I first started casting. The top got scratched up really good from not lubing. Now that internet and this site I have learned a lot. 2 cycle oil or refrigerant oil is what I use now. Only takes a very small drop or dab. I cleaned up the cutter and the top of the mold and is good as new well almost .

[waksupi]

The best advise is to not get info from Facebook. I've seen tons of misinformation on there, especially from amateur gun builders!

If you want it really flat, take it to a machine shop and have them mill a few thousandths off.

[Burnt Fingers]

The best advise is to not get info from Facebook. I've seen tons of misinformation on there, especially from amateur gun builders!

If you want it really flat, take it to a machine shop and have them mill a few thousandths off.

The best advice you'll ever get.

[Rcmaveric]

Aluminum has funky heat properties. It's highly heat conductive. If you notice it's the bullets at the ends and close to handles that have rounded bases. Thats the part that's going to cool the quickest. The two in the middle look good.

Cast faster and crank the heat up to 850*F. Run the mold just below the smoke point. I also encourage you to get a tube of antiseize for that bottom of the sprue plate and the edges of the blocks where the sprue plate glides over it. The antiseize can take more heat and it will last longer than 2 cycle oil. It also won't migrate into the cavities. It will prevent galling from destroying the top of the mold in 2000 casts. Once you get the feel for it you will know when to add more by how the sprue plate feels gliding over the tops of the blocks.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[Rcmaveric]

The best advice you'll ever get.I am apart of lot of groups on Facebook. I do my best to give good info. You are correct not everyone advice is good or others as nice as we are.

Sometimes the advice gets buried by the bad.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[rbuck351]

Machine shop is the correct way for most folks. Some few are capable of properly hand fitting parts but that skill is lost on most folks now days.

[Conditor22]

Yeah it's some kinda irritating to say the least but 2 years of auto boat and sanding bondo have gotten me pretty used to this, honestly if it wasn't for for these things apparently being worth $150 buck now for some reason I would have just bought a new one
But hay I like tedious little projects lol. Went from a file to 80-120-180 -1000
[/ATTACH]

Not to question your filing prowess, but the odds of you keeping the top of the mold and bottom of the sprue plate flat/level/true would have been better IF you took the handles off, sanded the mold on wet/dry with a piece of glass or tile under it.

If you have a machinist friend, it's a simple job to flatten the top by taking a couple of thou off it.

[ABJ]

I second the post about running hot and fast on Lee six bangers. Also, those three rounded bases might be from not a large enough sprue puddle. My sprues don't always connect, but they are real close to connecting. The softer the alloy the larger the sprue puddle needs to be.
Tony

[David2011]

Most of my incomplete fill outs are attributable to inadequate puddles on the sprue plate. I try to always have all of the puddles connected into a single lump. As the alloy in the cavity cools it draws metal in from the puddle. It’s easy to see the depression that’s made as metal is drawn into the cavity.