Can Permatex anti-seize lubricant be renewed?

[smoked turkey]

I use the Permatex brand anti-seize compound on many of my equipment bolts, spark plugs, lawn mower blade bolts, and of course my muzzleloaders that have removeable breech plugs. I don't use much as a little goes long way. I recently went to my 8 ounce jar and to my dismay it has lost the ingredient that makes it soft and usable. I just hate to throw it away without asking if anyone has a suggestion as to what product can be used to bring it back into usable condition?

[rbuck351]

Just add a bit of oil and stir it in. The oil is just a thinner/carrier. The actual anti seize part is a metal like copper or lead powder.

[Evoken]

I believe, and I will check for sure, that the copper anti seize I have says it contains mineral spirits. I would think that spirits would loosen it up.

[rbuck351]

Yeah just about any liquid oil product should work.

[smoked turkey]

Thanks to you who took the time to answer my question. I have used mineral spirits to bring other products back as well. I will give it one more day to see if I get any other responses before I try one or both of the suggestions just to see. I gave it the sniff test and it didn't give me any clues as to what it might be. A light machine oil might just be the ticket.

[legend 550]

A little WD-40 to renew or thin it.

[Jsm180]

I have always used mineral spirits, and you don't need much. I would think oil could burn and coke the threads in a high heat environment.

[Martin Luber]

The spirits work all in one night!

[OldBearHair]

Reminds me of Drywall Joint compound getting old and dried up. It takes some effort to bring it back, but add a little water and stir, stir, stir.. I should use more Permatex anti-seize. Now if someone knows how to reconstitute PVC glue I would appreciate it. Down here in Texas the PVC glue and everything PVC went short supply in the freeze. Serious conditions for a lot of people. You people in cold climates know how to deal with and prepare for, but we got caught some without a clue as to the outcome.

[ascast]

is that the NAPA stuff? I have noticed that getting stiff in the jug. I just stirred it up. I have some old stuff in a tin can, my dads from the '60's, with no lid. It just needs a stir once a year.
As for the PVC, DID IT ALL BREAK? We don't use it much up here. In fact, not legal in NYCity as the fumes when burned are very toxic. Copper is the way to go, or PEX. best of luck with that

[rbuck351]

I have used acetone to reliquify pvc cement if it's not to far gone.

[jim147]

I can't link on this thing but search permatex anti seize MSDS.

[alamogunr]

I've had a can sitting on the shelf for about 15 yrs. Haven't used much. When I open the can there is separated oil on top. Not thin like mineral spirits. I just stir it up good. Not sure what brand but Permatex sounds familiar.

It may be that a little mineral spirits will combine and leave similar oil that I fine in my can.

[Brassmonkey]

Reminds me of Drywall Joint compound getting old and dried up. It takes some effort to bring it back, but add a little water and stir, stir, stir.. I should use more Permatex anti-seize. Now if someone knows how to reconstitute PVC glue I would appreciate it. Down here in Texas the PVC glue and everything PVC went short supply in the freeze. Serious conditions for a lot of people. You people in cold climates know how to deal with and prepare for, but we got caught some without a clue as to the outcome.

thats quite a mess, some folks really suffered. how much warning did y'all get before the freeze?

[OldBearHair]

We had early warnings, but most people only know to go buy faucet covers and wrap exposed pipes, etc. Problems came when the power went off. Pipes inside the walls and above ceilings not properly insulated. Ceiling all falling down when the thaw began and water flooding. Mildew behind the sheetrock and carpets ruined. Then water shortage with a lot of people without water to drink and when they got municipal water it had to be boiled. Ones that had swimming pools could at least flush toilets . When we moved into my house I found water pipes in the ceiling not properly insulated. We were spared of a lot of trouble because we added 14 inches of blown insulation upstairs. When power went off the thermostat sat on 67 degrees. Temp down to 6 degrees F. We had candles under the sinks, in the house for lighting, three candles and a coleman camp stove in the outside well house. Next morning the house temp was 52 degrees. The coleman stove ran out of propane. The three candles kept the lines from freezing. I was confident before the freeze thinking yes all the outside faucets were protected, but one froze and burst. I had it well insulated but it was done 5 to 10 years before and the foam deteriorated. New plan to redo the other ones with age problems. Next people were lined up at Home Depot and Lowes, etc. A couple of friends needed parts and couldn't get them and they decided to see if I could help them with parts. Yeah, just ask OldBearHair, he's probably got what you need and I did this time.

[rbuck351]

If you think you are going to have pipes freeze, shut the water off to the house and open all faucets and drain everything you can. When you get power/heat again, turn the water back on watching for leaks. It's easier to fix the pipes than a bunch of dry wall and carpets.

[Evoken]

The stuff I have is loctite brand. It says it contains mineral oil.

[kootne]

Bearhair, get the frost free spigots. They will be about a foot long. The valve part is a foot back into your house. There is a stem inside the pipe from the valve to handle. Put them in with a slight angle down so they can drain. Cold comes, make SURE the hose is uncoupled so they drain. I can vouch for the effectiveness at -50, high winds for 2 weeks in '89 - they stood the test.

[smoked turkey]

Well, this afternoon I gave the dried up Permatex anti-seize jar about a teaspoon of WD-40. I stirred it with a small flat stick used for mixing paint. I have some success with this. I need to add a little more WD-40 to it as it is still a little dry. The mineral oil sounds like it would work too. I appreciate the helpful comments. I feel good about saving a few bucks, and avoiding sending it to the landfill.

[cheese1566]

I’m still using the same pint can my father had for as long as I can recall...probably going on 50 years. Sitting on top my lathe for dead center lube. Never had issue drying, but it’s a metal can with a brush and the silver graphite style. More issue now with the brush not reaching the bottom 1/4...

Step-son knows now where to find it for working on brake assemblies, learned quick how it stains skin and use sparingly.

Also for assembly of barrels on AR platforms

[jsizemore]

I use anti-seize on all my mold screws, and alignment pins. Small amount on a toothpick works fine. My can says locktite/napa.

[Screwbolts]

You never know, the label may just have a clear description of what is in the jug and that will/might possibly give you a clue as what to use to reconstitute.

[wildwilly501]

The MSDS sheet says paraffin oil.When I look that up its says lamp oil

[jim147]

My bottle of lamp oil says it causes cancer in the state of California so I hope you don't live there.

[jsizemore]

And it will make your babies be born naked!

[Plate plinker]

And it will make your babies be born naked!

And probably hairless too.

[jim147]

Glad I don't live in California.

[Screwbolts]

Darn that Lamp oil!

[GL49]

California should save some time and energy and just publish a list of what DOESN'T give you cancer. That might be....ummm.....three things, four if they look hard enough.