Pocket brass frame revolver stretch?

[Darth-Vaj]

Does pocket model brass frame in .36 cal stretch upon firing? Anyone knows firsthand?

[AntiqueSledMan]

Hello Darth,

The frame doesn't really stretch, the recoil shield gets hammered out of shape.

AntiqueSledMan.

[smithnframe]

They aren’t as strong as a steel frame. I have a brass framed 1851 Navy I put together 50 years ago that shows no signs of stress in the frame.

[edp2k]

Hello Darth,
The frame doesn't really stretch, the recoil shield gets hammered out of shape.
AntiqueSledMan.

Even though the pick is labeled 1851 (i.e. 36 cal) and the OP's question was about 36 cal,
the cylinder in the pic is rebated and thus it is a 44 cal, not a 36 cal.

[mooman76]

Keep your loads light and it will help.

[vagrantviking]

Saw a pair of Colts stretched to the point of cylinder gap spray being dangerous. Wouldn't be surprised if it was misfiring because of cylinder end play. Never got the full story after the fact.
Old fool thought he would load them up at home the day before with lubed wads on the powder. After 24hr some fizzled, some failed to fired and a couple went off pretty good....in random order. He was pissed off and just kept trying until it was all clicks. Probably had 2 or 3 stuck in each barrel. A few weeks later he was shopping for new steel framed guns and the brass ones stayed in the mantel.

With regular use they should last a long time. Never heard of anyone else having a problem.

[Darth-Vaj]

Yes I know the .36 cal 1851 brass navy models stretch but I was referring to brass framed pocket models. Not the full size brassed framed models.

[rodwha]

I’m not aware of a .36 cal pocket model. Pietta makes a brass framed .31 cal pocket model.

I’ve been told the Spiller & Burr is solid enough to handle fulls loads and a ball. These hold about 20 grns of power just as the Colt pocket models. So if you were to find one made from brass I’d say you were good to go. People state 20-25 grns in a brass .44 is fine.

[Mk42gunner]

I thought the pocket model Colt .36's had rebated cylinders; since they were basically .31 frames with .36 cal barrels and cylinders, similar to the 1860 .44 cal. Haven't really kept up on what was offered with brass frames, since they don't interest me that much.

Robert

[Nobade]

AFAIK the only pocket model 36 caliber is the 1862 Police. And I have never seen one with a brass frame. What do you have?

[indian joe]

Even though the pick is labeled 1851 (i.e. 36 cal) and the OP's question was about 36 cal,
the cylinder in the pic is rebated and thus it is a 44 cal, not a 36 cal.

Take another peek ----that looks like a lil 5 shot cylinder to me - I didnt know they made the pockets in brass but I have a Uberti 36 cal pocket navy - it has the stepped cylinder -- also have its bigger brother, a 51 navy in 44 cal, stepped cylinder, 51 navy grip frame, 51 navy front end (loading lever, octagonal barrel etc)

[indian joe]

AFAIK the only pocket model 36 caliber is the 1862 Police. And I have never seen one with a brass frame. What do you have?

I think they made em - these little 5 shooters are so cool
-1862 pocket navy 36 cal - stepped cylinder - front end looks like a smaller 51 navy (jointed loading lever, octagonal barrel)
-1862 police pocket 36 cal - stepped fluted cylinder (maybe not all but seen some like that) - front end looks like a mini 1860 army (creeping loading lever, round barrel, - these are a purty lookin pistol)
Uberti replicas are close to colt - am told the pietta uses a bigger frame - dont know that for sure?

[bedbugbilly]

The biggest problem with the brass frames is when the owner's push them too hard. Stout charges equal stout recoil of the cylinder against the recoil shield - doesn't't matter what the caliber is - 31, .36 or .44. Over time, with heavy loads the recoil takes a good meeting - steel of cylinder against brass or brass alloy and it's a no brainer of which is going to give first. The steel cylinder arbor - which is installed into the brass/brass alloy frame can also loosen up.

I'm not bad mouthing brassers. A lot of folks have 'em, a lot of folks shoot 'em and a lot of folks enjoy the heck out of them. Over the yerars I have had several. One of the nicest shooting ones I ever had was an old Navy Arms - not really a copy of anything but basically a brass framed 1851 Navy with a short 4{ or so round barrel - it shot well with light to moderate loads - I took bunnies and other critters with it. I traded it off and regretted afterwards as it was a fun gun.

[Prairie Cowboy]

If you must have a brass frame, it would be best to stick to the solid frame Remington and Spiller and Burr designs. I believe that Pietta makes a brass frame .31 caliber Remington pocket, or used to.

[Battis]

Spiller & Burr .36 recoil shield. I bought it this way.

[AntiqueSledMan]

Even though the pick is labeled 1851 (i.e. 36 cal) and the OP's question was about 36 cal,
the cylinder in the pic is rebated and thus it is a 44 cal, not a 36 cal.

The picture was the only one I had to show how the frame gets hammered out of shape.

AntiqueSledMan.

[rodwha]

Spiller & Burr .36 recoil shield. I bought it this way.

Interesting. I’ve been told the Spiller handles full loads of 3F with a ball, no need to reduce. Assuming this is true maybe energetic powders and/or conicals are the culprit.

[Battis]

I didn't want to get into it and hijack the thread, but my Spiller & Burr is very old. Several BP shooters told me it might be original. I don't think it is, but it's the best defarbing job I've ever seen, right down to the serial number (#82).

[sourdough]

Spiller & Burr .36 recoil shield. I bought it this way.

Thank you for that photo!

Brass frames do not stretch, no matter if it is a repro Colt, Remington, Spiller & Burr, Schneider & Glassick, Griswold & Gunnison, et al. The cylinders are steel and the recoil shields are brass. Basic metallurgy concerning hardness of metals apply. When fired with excessive loads (for a brass frame), the steel cylinder imprints the rear cylinder ratchet into the brass recoil shield, and repeated use further imprints it, creating an excessive end play of the cylinder. The endplay is evident at hammer down position and at full cock. At half cock all seems normal because the ratchet does not align with the indents in the recoil shield.

It does not matter if the revolver is an open top Colt or an enclosed frame Remington or Spiller & Burr.

Regards,

Jim