Can I use .556 brass for reloading .223?

[VariableRecall]

The question is simple. I'd assume that I'm going to encounter a good deal of 5.56 brass along with .223. If I'm going to be reloading with a .223 die, would 5.56 brass be safe to use with the die set? I'd assume that Mil-Spec Brass is going to be thicker and have different tolerances compared to .223.

Would attempting to load 5.56 brass in a .223 die end in disaster? Or, would it just be more difficult? Also, I'd assume pressure and case capacity is going to be different as well.

Got any general tips for loading rifle rounds when so far my experience is only with straight walled pistol cartridges so far?

[M-Tecs]

Only issue may be crimped primer pockets on the GI brass. The cases are the same. Volume in 223/.556 is a none issue. With 308 and 30/06 there is a difference.

Check the .223 Rem Case Weight vs. Capacity chart here.

https://www.6mmbr.com/223rem.html

[trails4u]

Outside dimensions are for all practical purposes identical. Dies are identical, and I don't believe any manufacturer differentiates between .223 and 5.56 dies. Inside case capacity may be slightly less in mil brass, but not necessarily true across all manufacturers, either commercial or military. As M-Tecs said....nothing to worry about.

[rbuck351]

I have loaded a bunch of military cases (5.56) with 223 dies for my Rem 700V as well as my TC in 223. As usual, start low and work up and there should be no problem.

[VariableRecall]

Only issue may be crimped primer pockets on the GI brass. The cases are the same. Volume in 223/.556 is a none issue. With 308 and 30/06 there is a difference.

Check the .223 Rem Case Weight vs. Capacity chart here.

https://www.6mmbr.com/223rem.html

I don't think I have any equipment that can get rid of the crimped primer pockets. Any bright ideas for DIY solutions?
I do happen to have a chamfer/deburring tool and a cutting head, but no way to trim to length except by hand.

[osteodoc08]

I don't think I have any equipment that can get rid of the crimped primer pockets. Any bright ideas for DIY solutions?
I do happen to have a chamfer/deburring tool and a cutting head, but no way to trim to length except by hand.
Chuck your trim chamfer tool in a drill by the little nubbin in the center and just kiss the primer pocket while it’s running to get rid of the crimp. I prefer swaging but this will work in a pinch.

As far as trim to length, get a WFT and chuck it up in a drill.

This is fine for blasting ammo. For precise case development, I’d use a traditional lathe style case trimmer.

[frkelly74]

You can just use a drill bit or a counter sink to chamfer primer pockets if it's the only way to get some loading done. Just go lightly, only cut the ridge left by the crimping process.

[VariableRecall]

Chuck your trim chamfer tool in a drill by the little nubbin in the center and just kiss the primer pocket while it’s running to get rid of the crimp. I prefer swaging but this will work in a pinch.

As far as trim to length, get a WFT and chuck it up in a drill.

This is fine for blasting ammo. For precise case development, I’d use a traditional lathe style case trimmer.

Would putting a Primer Pocket Cleaner in a Drill bit Chuck do the job as well? I've got one of those too.

[Drm50]

I loaded 223 / 5.56 for years before this guff started. Using ball powder you will see no difference.
Military cases have less volume than commercial. This easy to see filling cases with hypo. Will show up if you are trying to use an IMR powder such as 4198. GI load 55gr FMJ at 3250FPS will be compressed. I don’t know why there has been the fuss the last few years. I have herd several experts explain it and they do a poor job. This has all raised from the heavier bullet the military adopted and the chambers of some sporting rifles. It’s that simple but for some reason they can’t get it out. I’ve fired thousands of rounds of military 5.56/ 55gr out of Ruger #3 and several bolt actions. Never had a problem. I shoot 55gr Spitzers out of 222 & 223 both will BC L2.

[Winger Ed.]

The old reloading manuals from the 80s-90s said to reduce your charge by one grain when using GI brass.
The newer ones I've gotten in the last few years don't mention it.

Folks that start at the maximum listed loads and work up,,,,, it might contribute to 'issues',
but if you're not going over the max, its a non issue.

[M-Tecs]

With GI brass for the 308 and 30/06 the standard recommendation is to reduce loads by 10%. With the .556 verse 223 brass that is not true.

Early chamber specs between the .556 and .223 were different in the throat dimensions. Mostly the pre 80's Remington's. The issue was with the 62 grain SS109 M855 rounds in the older .223 short throat chambers.

Hard to make a blanket statement but I am not aware of any 223 rifles manufactured after the mid 80's that still use the shorter throated original 223 chamber. Easy enough to check. Use a black marker to color a loaded 556 round and if it chambers without engraving you are good to go. Same for the claimed pressure difference. Mostly BS. Yes the stated pressures are different but that is due to a difference in location of the test equipment.

278446

[Hick]

I don't think I have any equipment that can get rid of the crimped primer pockets. Any bright ideas for DIY solutions?

Lyman makes a gadget that has a handle like a screwdriver called a primer pocket reamer. Two sizes: one for large rifle/pistol and one for small rifle/pistol. Very inexpensive and they work great. I remove 5.56 crimps by putting the case nose first in a hand drill, put the reamer int he pocket, and turn the case a few turns with the drill. This makes it all consistent and is easier than holding the case. It cuts the crimp and makes sure the pocket depth is right.

[VariableRecall]

I loaded 223 / 5.56 for years before this guff started. Using ball powder you will see no difference.
Military cases have less volume than commercial. This easy to see filling cases with hypo. Will show up if you are trying to use an IMR powder such as 4198. GI load 55gr FMJ at 3250FPS will be compressed. I don’t know why there has been the fuss the last few years. I have herd several experts explain it and they do a poor job. This has all raised from the heavier bullet the military adopted and the chambers of some sporting rifles. It’s that simple but for some reason they can’t get it out. I’ve fired thousands of rounds of military 5.56/ 55gr out of Ruger #3 and several bolt actions. Never had a problem. I shoot 55gr Spitzers out of 222 & 223 both will BC L2.

I have a bundle of discontinued 50gn boolits and some IMR 3031 I found due to a miraculous restock in Hodg's online store. Looking in the jar I got, it looks like a "stick" powder with stubby cylinders of compressed powder. Looks like recommended load for .223 Remington for this batch is 22 grains of 3031 with a max load at 25. I'm definitely going to stick to 22 grains for the first sets.

[Drm50]

I use GI Match brass in both 30/06 and 308 in my older classic rifles. None of loading are max hot loads. My 1895 Winchester loads are under 45000cpu with 180gr bullets, other 06s are 150gr about 2800 FPS for bolt guns. 308 loads running about same in 150gr. I do have a 130gr load that is approx 3000fps that I shoot in pre 64 m70. Have been shooting same loads for years in match brass no problems. I load standard GI brass for plinking ammo and for auto & pump rifles

[VariableRecall]

I use GI Match brass in both 30/06 and 308 in my older classic rifles. None of loading are max hot loads. My 1895 Winchester loads are under 45000cpu with 180gr bullets, other 06s are 150gr about 2800 FPS for bolt guns. 308 loads running about same in 150gr. I do have a 130gr load that is approx 3000fps that I shoot in pre 64 m70. Have been shooting same loads for years in match brass no problems. I load standard GI brass for plinking ammo and for auto & pump rifles

I'm just looking to reload ammo to work with it for plinking and familiarizing myself with it, not exactly for winning competitions. I'm OK with consistently average quality ammo, not setting my sights to go toe to toe with the pros.

[Coopaloop86]

I have been doing it for years. The only issue I have noticed is that when using a die that seats and crimps simultaneously, on some brass I will encounter an issue with crimp when setting my dies to 5.56 and going to .223. I believe this is due to the slight difference in outer dimensions of 5.56 to .223.

[VariableRecall]

I have been doing it for years. The only issue I have noticed is that when using a die that seats and crimps simultaneously, on some brass I will encounter an issue with crimp when setting my dies to 5.56 and going to .223. I believe this is due to the slight difference in outer dimensions of 5.56 to .223.

So, just keep the two sets of brass separated and I should be good to go?

[M-Tecs]

So, just keep the two sets of brass separated and I should be good to go?

Once again the brass for the .223 and the 5.56 are the same except 5.56 may have crimped primer pockets. Chamber specs are different between the two. For the ultimate in accuracy sorting by headstamp and number of firings is a good idea. Reality is between LC brass and Winchester, Federal and Remington the internal volume is close enough the groups at 200 yards at indistinguishable from sorted brass until you get into the sub 3/8 MOA territory.

https://blog.westernpowders.com/2019/04/223-remington-and-the-5-56x45mm-military-nato-cartridge-and-chambers/#:~:text=The.223%20Remington%20cartridge%20is%20sp ecified%20at%20a%20SAAMI,at%20125%25%20of%20this%2 0maximum%20pressure%20or%2077%2C957psi.

https://ultimatereloader.com/2018/08/05/223-vs-5-56-facts-and-myths/

Crimping is a whole different subject as to the benefits or lack of benefits on non tube feed firearms. For crimping to be effective the case must be trimmed to the same length or you will have inconsistence crimps.

[bangerjim]

Several makers out there have crimped primer pocket "removers". They simply "move" the metal back to the original position for a primer. I have 3 different ones and they work GREAT. All mine work in your press with just one simple downward stroke. No messing with drills and chucks and torn-up fingers here. I have de-primed and straightened many hundreds of 9mm and 223 cases and every one works & re-primes like a standard primer pocket case.

Just invest a little money in correct tooling and you will be good to go. You can use a screwdriver for a chisel and a crescent wrench as a hammer, but why not just buy the correct tools for the job???????????????

And yes, 223's and 556's are the same thing for all intents and purposes we care about. I have done many 556's loaded as 223's. Just check the fit in your guns B4 going wild reloading!

[FLINTNFIRE]

Old timers I knew just used their pocket knife to remove crimp on primer pockets , I have the lyman bench mounted tool for reaming the crimp and have used a knife and used the chamfer deburring tool also , as to swaging units they cost more and they move metal , I have had to use primer pocket uniformer on brass that the crimp was swaged out .

If you have the cash to buy the tools and if they are available thats fine , if you are short on cash you can make do with what you have on hand , when using a cutting tool do not over do it brass is soft , and it is easier to take off but not put back , it is not difficult to do and with a few done you will get the knack for it .

[Joelafives]

A Dillon super swage will do the trick on military brass

[Moleman-]

Another vote for the countersink in the drill press for a cheap DIY primer crimp remover. For the past 30+ years I've used an Vermont American 82 degree countersink held in a drill press to remove the primer crimps. I also have a couple different types of primer pocket swagers, but the countersink is faster and works fine. Grab a handfull of cases with the bases up and press them into the countersink one by one while supporting the case mouth with the other hand. My half deaf ears can detect a tone difference when the countersink starts cutting solid metal.

For case trimming on bulk rifle cases you can't beat a dillon type trim die with either their trim motor or a adaptor to use a router motor.

[onelight]

I don't think I have any equipment that can get rid of the crimped primer pockets. Any bright ideas for DIY solutions?
I do happen to have a chamfer/deburring tool and a cutting head, but no way to trim to length except by hand.
I like this for a hand powered tool also good for other case prep and I thought they were fairly priced for what you get. https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/101286290?pid=135615&utm_medium=paid-search&utm_source=bing&utm_campaign=RL_Metallic%20Reloading%20Equipment_A lpha_B&utm_term=%5Blyman%20case%20prep%20multi%20tool%5D&msclkid=4aae5a9e790f1bdcd7db3afbb7599b36&utm_content=lyman%20case%20prep%20multi%20tool

[farmerjim]

I have a worlds finest trimmer for 308 and one for 223. They are fast fast fast and accurate. But they are not cheep and they take a bit of work to get them adjusted the first time. There is also the worlds cheapest trimmer. It works good and fast too. If you are going to trim thousands get one of these and power it with a drill.
I use a lathe for mine.

[Cosmic_Charlie]

I don't think I have any equipment that can get rid of the crimped primer pockets. Any bright ideas for DIY solutions?
I do happen to have a chamfer/deburring tool and a cutting head, but no way to trim to length except by hand.

Rcbs makes a primer pocket swaging kit. Comes with mandrels for both large and small pockets. It is a much more precise way to remove the crimp than the hand method. You won't wind up with oversized pockets.