PDA

View Full Version : Soldering past flux



bisley45
12-31-2005, 04:54 PM
can you use this to flux w-w for the first melting

powderburnerr
12-31-2005, 05:41 PM
soldering flux would probably be gone before it did much good it melts a lot lower than lead and then starts to burn when over heated . a cheap and easy smelting flux is a bit of motor oil . or beeswax or bullet lube oily sawdust lots of cheap stuff that works ............ Dean

Johnch
12-31-2005, 05:49 PM
I agree , Solder paste flux would be gone to soon .

I use DRY sawdust with some used oil mixed in . ( smokes a lot )

But any of the above listed will work good .
Just use them out side or in a WELL vented area

Johnch

bisley45
12-31-2005, 08:32 PM
thanks I will try the sawdust I am new at this casting thing so be patient thanks for all the help

BruceB
12-31-2005, 10:14 PM
Being an old dog like I am, it's pretty neat to report that a new-to-me technique works so well that I have actually CHANGED something in my routine!

Was it waksupi or Sundog who alerted me to this fluxing method? Or someone else? Dunno, but it sure works.

Just use a wooden dowel to stir the mix! This gets carbon right down into the extreme bottom of the melt very efficiently, and the bubbling action agitates the alloy, AND the dowel can also scrape crud from the sides and bottom of the pot at the same time.....plus, it even SMELLS better than almost any fluxing agent I've ever used!

I now keep several foot-long dowel pieces right handy to the furnace. I'm using 1/2"-diameter right now, but doubt that the size matters much. Try it, because it just may be the best fluxing method I've ever used.

drinks
01-01-2006, 12:59 AM
Soldering paste is an acid bearing compound, usually zinc chloride , it has no use in bullet casting, only on soldering solderable materials, most notably, copper plumbing fittings.
Whatever you do , do not use it on any electrical components or copper wire,

NVcurmudgeon
01-01-2006, 01:04 AM
Bruce, I don't remember (always risky) any fluxing when you demonstrated your amazingly fast casting technique. I was under the impression that you bottom-pour guys did not flux at all. Are you referring to fluxng when smelting, casting, or both?

Waksupi, IIRC you mentioned stick fluxing on Shooters, and said you favored a pine stick. Is that because the pine tar helps the fluxing? Stick fluxing is on my experiment list for this winter, I'm running low on candle stubs!

BruceB
01-01-2006, 01:26 AM
NVC;

Actually, you're quite correct (for an older gent, that's pretty good) and I do not do a lot of fluxing when casting. I do usually flux the pot when it first reaches casting temp, and that's about it unless I see a lot of build-up on top of the melt.

The dowel is just so simple that it's dead-easy, and all it leaves on the surface is whatever it has drawn from the alloy....no waxy, greasy smoking messes that have to be skimmed off.

I bet that if waksupi favors pine sticks, it's because they are (a) available, and (b) CHEAP (free)!

floodgate
01-01-2006, 01:38 AM
BruceB:

Just be sure the dowel or stick is good and dry, and dip it in slowly the first few times you use it. I grabbed a length of 1/4" dowel to scrape, stir and flux with this morning, and it bubbled and spit for a while before it dried out.

And always, WEAR EYE PROTECTION!

Happy New Year to all!!!

floodgate

waksupi
01-01-2006, 05:01 AM
Well, I have been known to use a pine stick or two. Mostly, I use cut off or broken ramrod sections. Any wood will do. I do believe it is the most effective means of fluxing the mix well, and is cheap. That works for most of us. If you like to spend lotsa money, I sell sections of broken or cut off ramrods, for ten dollars each. These were carefully developed especially for stirring casting alloy, and will work much better than any you may find locally available. Only $10 each, plus $7.85 for the flat shipping box. I'd suggest you order a dozen or so at a time, as supplies can fluctuate severely.

Hmmmm... I think I will put some on Ebay....

tomf52
01-01-2006, 11:57 AM
Drinks was correct in his warning about acid fluxes and electrical connections etc. However, there are two basic types of fluxes, the acid base and rosin base. The rosin base is designed for electrical work and would make an excellent flux for casting were it not for it's high cost.

MN91311
01-01-2006, 09:42 PM
For the initial ingotizing melt, I flux with candles, cheap wax candles that I pick up for cheap at garage sales, flea markets, etc.

Beeswax, bullet lube, those are way too expensive to use for the raw melt.

Part of the satisfaction of casting is obtaining as many components/supplies as possible by scrounging, for free or very little cost.

To my regret I once passed up a complete set of candlemaking equipment/supplies for garage sale prices. Some of the supplies would be useful not only in fluxing, but making homemake bullet lube.











soldering flux would probably be gone before it did much good it melts a lot lower than lead and then starts to burn when over heated . a cheap and easy smelting flux is a bit of motor oil . or beeswax or bullet lube oily sawdust lots of cheap stuff that works ............ Dean

MN91311
01-01-2006, 09:47 PM
I think there is electrical grade soldering paste, but it also is not cost efficient for fluxing the ingot-making process.






Soldering paste is an acid bearing compound, usually zinc chloride , it has no use in bullet casting, only on soldering solderable materials, most notably, copper plumbing fittings.
Whatever you do , do not use it on any electrical components or copper wire,

psychicrhino
04-06-2014, 10:59 PM
Good info, I was wondering same.

btroj
04-07-2014, 07:16 AM
Well, I have been known to use a pine stick or two. Mostly, I use cut off or broken ramrod sections. Any wood will do. I do believe it is the most effective means of fluxing the mix well, and is cheap. That works for most of us. If you like to spend lotsa money, I sell sections of broken or cut off ramrods, for ten dollars each. These were carefully developed especially for stirring casting alloy, and will work much better than any you may find locally available. Only $10 each, plus $7.85 for the flat shipping box. I'd suggest you order a dozen or so at a time, as supplies can fluctuate severely.

Hmmmm... I think I will put some on Ebay....

But do they come with free loob groove?

BIGRED
04-07-2014, 12:41 PM
not all Soldering Flux is Acid based.... only the types listed as Acid-flux. i use flux on a daily basis for more job. i have used old Excess flux for Smelting... it does work but WOW what a stinky cloud of lung wrecking smog it makes.... same this for flux core solder. big stinky mess that floats to the pot and doesn't go away for a while... if you were to use it, immediately follow up with sawdust and it will help suck up any flux leftover.

Hooker53
04-07-2014, 08:05 PM
Bruce. Good reading on this one. Will try this tomorrow if I can find some Coleman fuel or Naptha. Think I will try oak. Lol.

leeggen
04-07-2014, 10:53 PM
Redcedar chips work good also, even smells good as it works. I have used a limb off the tree when I am out of chips.
CD

geargnasher
04-08-2014, 12:04 AM
I love ressurected threads from many years ago, shows the new guys are doing some homework. Good job, new guy, stick around, there's lots more to be learned here!

Gear

Hooker53
04-08-2014, 07:20 AM
Hello Gear and thanks. I agree with you. I'm not a Cast Master but still have done small runs since the 70's. This site has already helped with some little problems I wondered about for years. Folks around my house had already ask me why you have that iPad in your hand more lately. Ha. Have s good one and thanks for saying hello.

Roy.