How important is a mould guide for a Lee lead pot?

[Dunross]

I believe I now have just about everything I need to get started on bullet casting from range scrap to ready to load. Only waiting for a couple of orders that have already shipped to arrive. Now I'm down to the useful, but not strictly necessary bits.

One of which is the NOE lead pot mold guide. They list a 3rd generation guide and an adapter for using it with a Lee 20lb pot (which is what I have). Like a lot of other things they're on backorder, but if they make the bullet casting process easier I'm willing to order them and wait.

Do they make that much of a difference?

Thanks!

[Wheelguns 1961]

I love mine. That being said, the small guide on the lee pot is perfectly serviceable. It will get the job done. It is just like a PID. You can cast without it, but it sure is nice to have.

[Conditor22]

I cast for years without one, I didn't like the guide that came with the Lee 4-20 so I wrapped a 2x4 with sheet metal and used plywood to shim it up to where I wanted the top of the mold to be.

I cast sitting down with heavy pants on and can easily see the spout. often I cast with several different style molds at one time and a guide would no be feasible.

I have a Pro Melt where I have the guide set the biggest mold I have and leave it there.

On the other hand, ... IF you are casting a lot with 1 or 2 comparable molds it's nice (especially for a beginner) to have the molds centered under the spout.---my 2¢

[kevin c]

For me it makes things go much faster and is less tiring.

I usually cast one bullet over a three hour session, using an 8 cavity aluminum mold. The guide allows precise positioning and rapid transition from cavity to cavity. The guide also supports the weight of the mold during the pour; even aluminum starts to get heavy in that third hour!

And maybe it was just my noobie technique, but the edge of the Lee guide scarred the side of my molds in a way the NOE didn't. Just cosmetic, but still objectionable.

[Doubles Shooter]

I don't have a factory guide. I just use a block of wood that brings my molds within a half inch of the spout. Works great for me.

[bangerjim]

I have used the Lee provided guides on my 4-20's for a long time now, with absolutely no need to replace them with some 3rd party aftermarket thing. If I wanted a super-duper-louper guide, I would just make one in my machine shop, but have never seen the need to waste time re-inventing the wheel

[AndyC]

I have one, but I removed the plate - now I just run my mold-blocks along the round rod sticking out from the NOE guide.

[Rcmaveric]

I been using a block of wood before I knew those existed. I only use it for the 6 bangers.. they are all ready heavy and once filled with lead and a large sprue.... gets tiring in an hour or three. Two and less molds I can go all day without a guide.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[Targa]

They are worth it especially when running iron and brass molds

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

When I first started casting, I bought the Lee 4-20 pot. I sure didn't think much of the little adjustable shelf that came with it. But after I removed the burrs in the metal, and ground a nice curve to it, then polished it, I started to like it. Then I got a NOE RG2 mold (hollow point), that mold does not like the shelf...but I put up with it. I have some ideas about making something else to use as a mold support for the RG2. But I only have the one RG2 and I don't cast with it very often, so making something is pretty far down on the list of things to do, as I can use the little shelf, it's just a pain, like driving down a gravel road with washboard bumps.

[Old School Big Bore]

The factory Lee shelf has worked so far with everything from Lee aluminum single cav to MP brass 4 cav Cramers to Lyman iron wooden-knob HPs to Lee & MP aluminum six cav molds. The thumbscrew that secures the shelf makes it easy to grab with pliers and adjust the height/orientation when necessary. The sharp edges did aggravate me, so I hit 'em with a file, stone and emery cloth. Then I heated 'em up with a propane torch and ran a B-C cold-blue pen over 'em. How about that? Y'all just heard me COMPLEMENT a Lee item!
Ed <><

[rcslotcar]

I have an HG 10 cavity mold that weighs a ton and more when filled. I couldn't use this mold with out the support of a guide plate.

[onelight]

I bet that is a heavy rascal .
Make s my hand hurt thinking about it.

[StuBach]

Bought mine when they first launched the current version and I got it with the Lee adapter for my Lee 4-20 and it was a significant upgrade on the Lee guide which I had been using for several years.

Nice thing is that when I upgraded to the ProMelt it came with me and it’s incredibly nice.

If your using NOE tilting pins especially the standard flat guides are troublesome cause of how the pin system works but with their guide it’s much easier.

[AlHunt]

So wait ... I'm supposed to position the Lee plate so that the side of the plate rides on the mold?

That's hilarious. I only recently started using it at all and now I discover I'm using it wrong ... :)

[Rich/WIS]

Didn't care for the Lee guide so modded my pot to use the Lyman mold guide. Drilled the base for two 1/2" shoulder bolts and installed the guide on them. My molds (LEE, NOE) are too wide so made a sheet metal cover for the guide. Adjusts easily and puts the mold under the spout. Have been using it for about 5 years and see no need to change, it ain't broke so no need to fix it.

[downzero]

I've vever heard of a mold guide, I can't imagine you'd need it. I googled it and I still don't know what it does, so I will probably continue casting without it.

[OS OK]

Use your pot the way it is.
If your hindered by that Lee 'almost a mould guide' then sit there in front of the pot with a cold beer an invent yourself something better.

In my subjective opinion..."We are supposed to enjoy our time casting & reloading, that's the name of the game for me."

I made a simple bar type rest with a shaft collar for width adjustment and a small screw from a little 'C clamp' for a height adjustment.

https://i.imgur.com/u4sJLPp.jpg

If a HP mould that has it's pins connected from the bottom of the mould on the outside causes you trouble, then get the proper rest that'll accomodate that style mould.
I avoid that style myself & if I cast with an old Ideal with the manual pin on the bottom I use my 10 lb. Lee without any rest.

https://i.imgur.com/DdbN40p.jpg

The shaft collar will keep the sprue holes centered under the spout.

https://i.imgur.com/PgLXxIe.jpg

If you want to preheat your moulds, there's a number of ways to do that too....from 'simple & adequate' all the way to having to get a little inventive. Your preference and your choice.
Casters & reloaders are some of the most ingenious people in any hobby I ever saw...anything you can think of, 'pert-near' has been attempted here in this forum one way or the other.

https://i.imgur.com/EL0314y.jpg

All you have to do is ask.

[toallmy]

I use my lee guide but it's been flipped over so I use it as a flat shelf .

[onelight]

OS OK that mold guide is a great simple design.

[OS OK]

OS OK that mold guide is a great simple design.

hahaaa...thanks onelight...it took 3 beers to envision and another 3 beers to build!

[FLINTNFIRE]

I've vever heard of a mold guide, I can't imagine you'd need it. I googled it and I still don't know what it does, so I will probably continue casting without it.

Now that statement does not surprise me , some cast some pose , I mostly cast without the guides as I vary height of mold from spout depending on flow .

[Hossfly]

I use the guide support that came on the Lee4-20 pot, do they not come that way any more?

[Mal Paso]

I use my lee guide but it's been flipped over so I use it as a flat shelf .

I did the same thing and used a pair of minature visegrips clamped to the shelf as a side guide. I put my pins on the left of my MP Hollowpoint Molds and the stock side guide hit the pins.

OS OK has the best mold guide I've seen.

[kevin c]

AAMOF, looking at it, I think OS OK's design might actually be better than the NOE. One problem I have with the long, slotted NOE shelf is when I cast from furthest to nearest cavity, pushing the mold away from me; occasionally lead dripping over the far end of the mold will harden while hanging down from it and can jam the mold at the end of the shelf slot. I don't think that can happen with a simple transverse bar support. I also have learned to tilt or rock the mold to control the sprue flow and cavity transition, easier to do on a round bar than a flat.

You selling those guides, OS OK?

[GasGuzzler]

Lee OEM is fine. Some molds don't want you yo use any prop. You'll have to find out if your mold and alloy like pressure fill (where I would not use the prop) or streaming the lead in (where I would use it). That being said, NOE makes really good products. I would wait and see what you prefer first though.

[Mal Paso]

AAMOF, looking at it, I think OS OK's design might actually be better than the NOE. One problem I have with the long, slotted NOE shelf is when I cast from furthest to nearest cavity, pushing the mold away from me; occasionally lead dripping over the far end of the mold will harden while hanging down from it and can jam the mold at the end of the shelf slot. I don't think that can happen with a simple transverse bar support. I also have learned to tilt or rock the mold to control the sprue flow and cavity transition, easier to do on a round bar than a flat.

You selling those guides, OS OK?

The RCBS Pro Melt guides use 2 rods across and a collar stop which is close to OS OK's or I'd be making one right now. If the rod was thick enough one side could be slotted to install without taking the bottom of the pot off. It would also work on both old and new Pro Melts, just drop the factory guide, lock it and clamp the guide on. Could be a good product. (hint, hint)

[OS OK]

AAMOF, looking at it, I think OS OK's design might actually be better than the NOE. One problem I have with the long, slotted NOE shelf is when I cast from furthest to nearest cavity, pushing the mold away from me; occasionally lead dripping over the far end of the mold will harden while hanging down from it and can jam the mold at the end of the shelf slot. I don't think that can happen with a simple transverse bar support. I also have learned to tilt or rock the mold to control the sprue flow and cavity transition, easier to do on a round bar than a flat.

You selling those guides, OS OK?

No, I'm not...I just invent things I need here in the shop and try to pass along what I've done...this is an easy-peezy build for a DIY'er.
Something I should mention is that this type of bar-stock rest needs a slight 'dog-leg' in it so that it will not be perfectly aligned under the spout.
When the pot drips, it drips on the back side of that bar & chills instantly and forms a little mini-potato chip & falls off.
When the bar stock is directly under the spout those drips will drop dead center and remain stuck to the bar.

https://i.imgur.com/cN5vZ5O.jpg

The bar stock is aluminum and it came from a cross bar on the handlebars of one of my dirt bikes...one of those 'add-on' bars that comes with a rubber cover so you don't plow your face into the bars when you crash.

https://i.imgur.com/fFHMX4y.jpg

[kevin c]

Put a bend in a bar. Drill one hole, drill and tap another. Buy a thumb screw and a lock collar. I can do that!

But, but, I don't have a dirt bike to cannibalize for parts. Curses, foiled again...

;^]

[onelight]

No wonder I liked it ! I am an old dirt bike guy myself :)

[Dunross]

"It is said, 'go not to the elves for advice for they will say both 'no' and 'yes'."

Or as we have it in the reloading and casting world -

"Go not to the Boolits for advice for they will say 'yes', 'no', 'you could build one!', 'why would you want one?', and 'what's a mold guide'." (laughing)

Thanks for the input. I think at this stage I'll try it without one for a while. With more experience I should have a better idea by then. I'm cleaning up more lead (weather permitting) this week and building a workbench suited to casting and other work. Already have my first molds picked out.

[onelight]

I still don't use one but the older I get and the more I use 4 cavity iron molds the more they look like a good idea :)

[rbuck351]

I use a stack of 1/2" plywood pieces about 2"x 3" with a 1/2" 2x3 piece of steel for the top. Easy and fast to adjust for height and the flat piece of steel works with about any type of mold and they slide easily on the steel plate.

[toallmy]

If you ladle cast & set the mold on the edge of the pot when filling it , is the rim of the pot a mold guide ?

[farmbif]

mold guide. just another accessory to make things go a bit smoother or easier. I look at it like this all the accessories and gadgets are like just getting one step closer at a time to making a jump up big time and getting a magma master caster.

[1hole]

... One of which is the NOE lead pot mold guide. They list a 3rd generation guide and an adapter for using it with a Lee 20lb pot (which is what I have). Like a lot of other things they're on backorder, but if they make the bullet casting process easier I'm willing to order them and wait.

Do they make that much of a difference?

It's not all that cut and dried. How much value you'll get out of a mold guide depends on what you're doing and how you're doing it.

For single and double cavity molds I prefer to not have a guide; I don't need the support and it sorta gets in my way. BUT, for four to eight cavity molds (especially for large bullets and steel molds) and long casting sessions, the guide can be a godsend for tired old wrists.

[onelight]

If you ladle cast & set the mold on the edge of the pot when filling it , is the rim of the pot a mold guide ?
It is at your house :)

[Eddie Southgate]

Never used one , never felt like I needed one .

[rintinglen]

Most of my casting these days is with 4 cavity Iron and brass molds. I use my Lee mold guide to prolong my casting session. I am getting long in the tooth and don't have the strength I had in my youth--or even in my middle age. :cry:

[jsizemore]

I tried one but it couldn't handle all the molds I use. I sit to cast so I get by with a rod like the RCBS without any guide. I can see the spout aligned with the sprue hole. Get a little too much sprue buildup that runs over the edge of the mold and it's a pain the next pour if it's accumulated on the guide.

[Mal Paso]

One thing I liked working different construction jobs is seeing the all different ways people do things. It's like that here.

[AndyC]

Mine:

https://i.imgur.com/O5464GZ.jpg

[Mal Paso]

Nice! I could make one of those on my mill. Got the stock too.

[GregLaROCHE]

Just go with the standard guide and start casting. Later you can decide if you want something more.

[Dunross]

Yes, that's what I decided to do.

The decision was made easier by the fact that it's all backordered at NOE!

[onelight]

Yup not a requirement people do it both ways and it works both ways.:)

[popper]

Hit the edges of the Lee with a file. Wipe it with 2 stroke oil each session. Saves the bottom of the Al. mould. Put a shallow drip can under the spout to catch the drips. Remove the adj. screw on the stem and add cheap tap handle on top. Give the tap handle a twirl to (mostly and with gloved hand) stop drips. Flux with beeswax or candle wax at lowest possible temp, stirring in wax, skim crud and re wax. then up to casting temp and the wax will burn off. Any wood will eventually get into the pintle and cause drips.