Wood for old Lyman 4-cavity handles

[NuJudge]

I could use at least 3 sets of these, and I'd love to have several in reserve. Can anybody with knowledge of woods suggest a good wood to use, and anybody with a wood lathe run them off?

I've only broken one handle ever, but several of the old 4-cavity molds I've purchased had taped-up broken handles.

CDD

[Morgan Astorbilt]

You'd be better off purchasing file handles from an industrial supply house like MSC.
Morgan

[fecmech]

Just buy a peice of 1" hardwood dowl such as oak. Drill a 1/2" hole all the way through. Just before you install the handle fill it halfway with silicone bathtub caulk and put it aside for a day or so till the caulk sets. That will be the last time you change the handle. Mold temp does not bother the silicone caulk.

[Texasflyboy]

body with knowledge of woods suggest a good wood to use, and anybody with a wood lathe run them off?

I've used ash in the past with good results. It's my experience and opinion that using a filler inside the hollow handle helps moderate the heat conduction from the handle shanks to the wood.

Over time, the hot shanks transfer heat to the point that the wood is sucked almost completely dry, and as a result of normal use and the lack of moisture, will certainly crack. I've tried to restore some of the moisture by soaking the wood handles in water before and after casting sessions with mixed results.

I've made mine with a Sears Roebuck wood lathe over the years, both for Hensley & Gibbs and Lyman moulds.

What I tend to do is keep an eye out for clearance replacement wood handles at Home Depot or Lowes. More than once I've come across Hatchet handles on clearance for .50 each, which made dandy replacement handles once turned down.