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View Full Version : Walther P1/P38 9mm, anyone have bizarrely bad accuracy problems?



Linstrum
12-20-2008, 05:08 AM
Three years ago I bought an arsenal refurbished West German Police Walther P1 9mm pistol. It has all new upper slide parts and a re-lined barrel. It operates like a Walther should - no jams or mis-feeds, and it digests everything I have reloaded for it. Mechanically it is a real dream to shoot.

Now for the nightmare. It shoots 48-inches low (yep, a full FOUR FEET low) at 25 yards and it patterns like a shotgun, making a 14-inch pattern at 25 yards with most bullets key-holing.

When I first got it and discovered its ills, I slugged the barrel, measured the sights, and basically gave it a good inspection to see what all was wrong. I compared its dimensions and appearance to another refurbished P1 purchased at the same time and there is no difference between the two pistols except the other one shoots 2-inch groups at 25 yards without being low or key-holing, and mine doesn't.

The barrel slugs at 0.358" and since it will chamber cartridges loaded with 0.358" copper jacketed bullets I tried those, without it changing anything. I also tried 0.359" 115-grain cast boolits with no improvement. I tried Unique, Green Dot, and Blue Dot powder loads all the way down to where it wouldn't cycle the action. I also crowned the muzzle, I chucked the barrel up in my lathe and re-cut the crown along with putting in a slight 60° inside bevel. NOTHING changes the abysmal performance.

The one thing I did that corrected the four-foot low shot placement was to machine and install a new rear sight that is a full quarter of an inch higher than the original. But of course that did nothing for the key-holing and 14-inch diameter shot spread on the target.

One of our resident 9mm Luger cartridge gurus is 9.3X62AL and back three years ago the two of us quite thoroughly and systematically went over everything that could be causing the troubles and we basically came to the conclusion that whatever is causing the problem with my particular Walther P1 is NOT within the realm of the commonplace things that affect the already notoriously cranky 9mm Luger cartridge. I also have a CZ85-B 9mm that is a darned good shooter, so I already have experience with what works for a correctly-functioning 9x19mm pistol.

At this point I am not especially interested in any further trouble-shooting of this P1 since I have already covered it as thoroughly as is possible without changing the barrel. But what I am interested in at this point is if anyone else has had similar bizarre woes with a rebuilt Walther P38 or P1. From the evidence of the shot placement being so radically low along with key-holing, it is my educated guess that the barrel liner has a longitudinal split that extends to the muzzle and opens up under pressure when fired. Unfortunately because the barrel liner is silver-brazed inside the old barrel assembly and consequently covered up by it, if there is indeed a split, it is hidden from view.

Any other similar tales of woe with the Walther P38 or P1?


rl504

missionary5155
12-20-2008, 05:34 AM
Good morning I bought a P1 about 25 years ago ... It looked brand new but was a refurbished... I shot cast out of it and it worked and shot normal. Used the same load as what my S&W 439 used. Chunk..chunk..chunk..
Sounds like you have the proverbial "good area coverage" handgun.

rhead
12-20-2008, 06:06 AM
Should give an impressive wound channel.
If it isn't the bore o or chamber do you have a way to check the crown for being out of square?

Linstrum
12-20-2008, 07:33 AM
Hi, misionary5155 and rhead, the way it shoots sure is a bummer. I would like to use the pistol as a carry gun and for that it needs to be accurate enough to give me the confidence to use it where I don't have to worry about hitting more than what I'm aiming at.

I forgot to mention that I re-crowned the muzzle as one of the very first things I did (I just added that to my original post so don't worry that you missed reading it - you didn't, it wasn't there until just now).

My next step is to get a Walther replacement barrel, although I don't yet know where to find one plus I'm a bit fearful of what I may have to pay for it. I was going to machine my own from an eight-groove Israeli 9mm Wolverine Carbine barrel blank I picked up new for cheap. I don't have my machine shop set up at the moment because I recently moved it, so I will try getting a Walther replacement instead of machining my own. The P1 is a bit easier for me to carry than my CZ85-B, although I really like the CZ with its double-stack magazine.

rl505

NuJudge
12-20-2008, 08:38 AM
I have a P38 that was an over-run on a contract for the German police. I was with my Dad when he picked it up from the importer, Interarms, in 1967. The only trouble I've had with mine was a pierced primer causing the topcover to vanish, and after a heck of a lot of shooting a crack formed in the slide in the area of the locking block recess, necessitating replacement.

I have always believed that recent P38 barrels were all lined.

Barrels are available, but you should wince before looking here:
http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=200750&chrSuperSKU=&MC=

Have you tried your friend's barrel on your pistol? Even if you don't fire it with that barrel, it may give you some different dimensional readings. A laser bore sighter may also tell you something if the readings are different with the two barrels. My experience with changing a barrel on mine is that not even the POI changed.
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=487408
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=282687

Have you tried 147gr bullets? This will lift point of impact a good bit, but not 4 feet.

Harry O
12-20-2008, 08:54 PM
Sorry. The post-war P-38 I have shoots pretty nice.

Phil
12-20-2008, 09:29 PM
Just a wag, but have you checked the alignment of the barrel assembly with the frame? My thinking is that perhaps the barrel is somehow cocked due to a machining glitch and is cocked down. This could cause such a large vertical error. Just thinking out loud though. I had a new P1 that shot to point of aim and grouped very well indeed. Have owned perhaps a half dozen P 38's over the years and never had the problem you describe. Sounds like an interesting problem though.

Cheers,

Phil

twotrees
12-20-2008, 11:41 PM
changing out the locking block on that gun??

If it doesn't fit absolutely correctly that could be the source of your problem.

Just a thought I quit shooting the danged things when one dis-assembled it's self on firing a mild reload.

I like the feel of them but after that strange happening, I quit shooting mine.

PS: all of mine were WW2 Nazi marked, so selling them to collectors was NOT a problem.

Hope you find out what is causing your problem.

Lloyd Smale
12-21-2008, 08:46 AM
what load are you using. It may have a twist that demands full power loads. Id buy a box of ww white box ammo and see if it did it with that. Also being that its a relined barrel id guess that maybe it was bored a little crooked and thats where your point of aim problems are comming from and because it is a relined barrel one of the first things i would do is to run a slug through the entire barrrel and see if you have a constriction somewhere in it.