Need help, used mold

[cheese1566]

Hello all, I need help!
I just started getting equipment to start casting. I have no experience in casting or molds for that matter;except for forums and casting books at the library.
I bought a used mold (not EvilBay) and have questions...
I have a Lyman 4 cavity 358311CM mold that came with a nutcracker style handle. I only paid $25 for it, so I only have a little invested if it's junk.
The mold looks to have been highly used and is not in the greatest shape, but verly little rust in only one cavity. The holes for the alignment pins are slightly oval and worn so it has a little slop. The handle was very loose and sloppy at the pivot joint.

The mold top is not flat!. I thought the sprue plate was warped or bent, but it is flat. The top of the mold looks to have a slant and curve from the top left corner to the lower right corner. It is definite when you look at the sides too. It looks like the sides and bottom are still square. When measuring the internals of the cavities, it shows variances in bullet lengths. The sprue screw area is flat, but there is between a 1/32-1/16" gap ranging from the front to the rear when the sprue plate is closed.

Is this normal? I am assuming somebody misused a file...

Is it possible to push\tap the alignment pins out a little futher and deburr the holes to help alignment?

I was thinking of having the friendly machine shop mill the top of the mold when the sloppy pins are taken care of. It is not a gas check design, and I will lose some weight from loss of part of the base.

Thanks

[MT Gianni]

Yes it is a project mold. I would work on the pins first. Clean up the alignment holes and push out the pins until they are just preventing the mold from rocking back and forth but do not prohibit it closing. I would then cast with it until I could examine the bullets. Compare oal and weight. Some free-thinker may have hacked the top of the mold to increase venting rather than loosened the sprue plate. You may want to LIGHTLY dimple the sides of each cavity with a pin punch to mark them for measuring. If they are within 2% of each other shoot a few and see how they do. If they are obviously outside your target accuracy standards then have the top milled.
Have fun with it, though it may be best to get a Lee 2 cavity and cast with it before you tackle the mold problems you have so you can tell the difference between a poor mold and casting technique. Gianni

[cheese1566]

I did take it to a local machinist who turns out to have some bullet casting experience. He was able to answer some of my newbie questions and understand what I was asking.
He took out his ruler and did some quick measurments. He advised to tinker with the pins and what to do with burrs in the holes. He estimated a mill finish to be about $15-20. He checked the sprue plate and thought it was in decent shape to salvage. He thought if the pins wouldn't work, he could easily replace them and the holes with an oversized set. He didn't think I would lose that much weight.
The other mold I have is a 9mm Lee 6 cavity to compare. I think I will probably get new one for 45acp. If this Lyman doesn't work out, I'll get another Lee 6 cavity from what I see.

Thanks for the help!

[shotman]

One note If you use a Lee 6 banger you will use the Lyman for a boat ankor

[cheese1566]

I think you may have just answered my question on the new thread I just wrote!

[EDK]

The handles are worth close to the $25.

I have a 429244 4 cavity that had the gas check bands reamed out a bit too enthusiastically and then the top was milled down to correct that problem. It could stand a little more milling, but is getting close to the alignment pin hole on top. It was purchased used from a small time commercial caster in 1972, so it's been around the block a few times.

No offense, but what are you using 358311 in? It is heavy for a 9 mm and a semi wadcutter or round nose flat point is more popular for 38/357.

I have access to a milling machine and surface grinder at work, so I'd figure out how to square up the top and then tinker with the pins as you mentioned. BUT a new set of 4 cavity blocks is about $70 (or less) from the semi-wholesale outfits like Mid South, Natchez, etc.....so I would not invest too much money in this mould.

I've bought moulds from several people on the forum...and got good ones! So far, so good on eBay; but I'd be a little more cautious on internet auctions.

Good luck on the project

:cbpour::redneck::Fire: