Lyman 358429 problem

[Ky-Dave]

Second time casting, first time with this mold. I started the session with an aluminum Lee 452 swc. Good bullets, no issues. I switched over to the Lyman and after warmed and about 12 good bullets, the mold was hard to open and or close. Then it would not fully close. I didn’t see any obstructions. Not sure what was happening. It’s like the pin is too tight. It’s all cool and I can force it closed now, but it’s tight.
Can you tell me how this happened? What should I do?
Thank you,
David

[gmsharps]

Sounds like the set screw for the sprue screw is a bit loose. Loosen the set screw and back the screw out maybe 1/4 turn then retighten the set screw. That should fix it.

gmsharps

[metricmonkeywrench]

Which washer set up does it have, the wavy washers are less problematic. If you have the split type washer it may have dug into the sprue plate and raised a burr. Moving the “split” to a different location when the screw is tightened and locked down may solve the issue.

[Dusty Bannister]

The photo shows the blocks might not be fully closed. If so, check the faces of the mold blocks for bits of lead spatter that is sticking to the surface and holding the blocks apart. The previous post addresses the loose or tight sprue plate. But perhaps the mold handle hinge pivot is binding a little bit and that will prevent the handles from moving freely. Support the handles and tap lightly on the pin which is sort of a rivet, from both sides and see if that loosens it up a little. Do not beat on it, that might make it tighter. Your description is unclear.

[Ben]

Try a different set of handles.

[Ky-Dave]

Sorry, the sprue plate works great. The mold won’t close properly. With the mold off the handles it’s tight. By comparing this mold and other Lymans of the same era, I believe it’s the pin itself. I can force it closed but it’s not right.
David

[beagle]

If the handle hinge is tight, place on a vice and tap pin with a hammer. Normally one side will loosen and the other side will tighten. Been my experience./beagle

[Ky-Dave]

Sorry, it appears to be the alignment pin on mold. Is there a fix?
Thank you,
David

[Boogieman]

It could be the mold pins are extended too far .You can bump them back in with a brass punch. Go slow a couple of thousandths at a time. If the mold closes good cold ,I would first just lub the pins with anti-seize compound , from your auto parts store, and cast with it ,making sure to close it completely each time.

[gwpercle]

As the steel heats up the top plate and blocks will expand . Some times you have to stop and either tighten the top plate screw or loosen the top plate screw.
Before starting make sure the screws and threads aren't buggered up and make sure the set screw has a protective soft lead or copper plug in the hole .
Then keep the pivot point lubed a little .
Lyman moulds are adjusted cold and as they begin to warm and heat up you have to stop and readjust the top plate . Getting that not too tight and not too loose adjustment is something you have to learn by doing ... like kissing a girl... I can tell you about it but you ain't going to learn how to kiss until you do some lip locking with a lady .
Gary

[45DUDE]

Take the mold off and see if if there is a mold problem. Hold up to the light and you should see no light. You can adjust the pins if needed. <Put on a piece of wood to adjust if needed> Make sure the handles are level where the mold fits. You can straighten them. Some times the holes need to be larger. You can turn the handles over also. The mold needs to be a little loose on the handle when closed.

[Ky-Dave]

I’ve tried multiple other mold haves just on the one side. It’s like the pin is too thick. Can I swap in a pin from another mold. I’ve got some that I will likely never use and they fit the female side fine. Do they just drive out with a brass punch?
I just don’t want to mess up two molds...
Thanks,
David

[45DUDE]

The pin is round on the end. Peck it back a little with a brass hammer. Put it in a vice or large vice grips with a piece of leather and reseat.

[Ky-Dave]

The pin is round on the end. Peck it back a little with a brass hammer. Put it in a vice or large vice grips with a piece of leather and reseat.
That’s gonna take care of it. I didn’t originally see that one was longer , but when held at eye level I could see the difference. It’s only .014 different on the dial but should do the trick. I will pick up a brass hammer and make the adjustment.
I’ll definitely be watching for sprue plate issues and will be ready when the do arise.
Thanks to everyone.
David

[Forrest r]

I oil the handle pivot screw along with the mold screws every time I cast along with the typical oiling of the mold.

Been using the oil Mihec sends with his molds or synthetic 2-stroke motor oil.

I come from a long line of oilers and greasers, it moves it gets oiled/greased.