home made ram rod

[corey012778]

just got done making my own range rod. ordered tips from track of the wolf. went to lowes and got 16ga steel rod. total work time 2hours

both ends where done the same. the rod is a little under sized so I used take to make up the space. drilled and pinned
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd231/corey012778/HPIM0716.jpg

it is an total length of 3ft

what ya think. going to make on for my hawkens. thinking of making the same why. -t handlehttp://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd231/corey012778/HPIM0718.jpg

[northmn]

They are a good idea. Did you buy a barrel protector to prevent undue wear to the muzzle?

Northmn

[Maven]

I did that last year when I needed a stout enough rod to load a tight ball/patch combo in my Dixie TN Mtn. rifle. (I purchased the fittings & several muzzle guards from TOTW as well.) Btw, Lowes also has dowels that are the equal of and much cheaper than the ramin ramrods (sans fittlings) the TOTW sells, but you have to go through ~40 to get a perfectly straight one.

[corey012778]

I am going to order one after the first of the year as well as some more tips. thinking I am going to make brass one for my cva hawkens.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

Good for you. Now remember to develop a hunting load with the thought you will load it with the gun ramrod, which typically wants a looser ball fit than a target load with range rod. The range rod gets all the work, the ramrod, the glory. Good shooting. BvT

[waksupi]

Maven, it's easy to sort them out. Put a bunch on the floor, and roll them!
I actually like a little bend in a ramrod, as it helps keep them in the thimbles, if you have a loose fit. And I like a loose fit. I have been hunting and needed a second shot, and the ramrod had swelled from moisture, and couldn't get it out to reload!

[corey012778]

Good for you. Now remember to develop a hunting load with the thought you will load it with the gun ramrod, which typically wants a looser ball fit than a target load with range rod. The range rod gets all the work, the ramrod, the glory. Good shooting. BvT
normally with the last 3 or 4 trips to the range, I use nothing but the gun's ram rod. having 5 muzzys one being an 45cal gets to be a little fun when you take more then one.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

Great ! Now get a "hanger screw" at the hardware store to fit your range rod and you will have a serious tool for easily pulling a ball for any reason. Sometimes it is more convenient to unload that way. BvT

[Maven]

"Now get a 'hanger screw' at the hardware store to fit your range rod...."

BvT, What exactly is a "hanger screw"?

[Bull Schmitt]

I would not recommend dowel rod for use as ramrods. A lot of the dowel rods are made from maple and some will have the grain run across the rod at some point. It can/will break at this point and result in injury. Use hickory like the old timers did. Its grain runs the length of the rod. Some recommend soaking the hickory in kerosene to make it more flexible.

YMMV

[dk17hmr]

I made a range rod out of 3/8" aluminum rod. Just put a chunk of oak or other hard wood on the end and drilled and tapped the other end for an accessory be it for cleaning or loading....then my dad found a TC Range Rod somewhere and gave it to me.

Yours looks good are you going to polish and blue the steel?

[Baron von Trollwhack]

A hanger screw is a little piece of rod perhaps an inch long, typically threaded 6-8-10-12- or 1/4 machine screw thread on one end, and the equivalent wood screw thread on the other. Mine are all 8-32 " machine screw thread on the rod end to be compatible with most all of my cleaning gear.

Use a piece or two of patch material threaded on the wood screw end to center the screw as it starts down the bore, your muzzle protector centers the handle end. Practice a bit as too little of screw into the ball pulls out, too much is unneccessary. The rod handle serves as an anchor when hooked on something to pull against as you hold the gun, all in a safe manner and direction.

I always preferred a ball handle for safety reasons in loading, and one big enough to catch in something when pulling. BvT

[Maven]

Thanks for the explanation, BvT!

[corey012778]

I made a range rod out of 3/8" aluminum rod. Just put a chunk of oak or other hard wood on the end and drilled and tapped the other end for an accessory be it for cleaning or loading....then my dad found a TC Range Rod somewhere and gave it to me.

Yours looks good are you going to polish and blue the steel?

I don't know yet.

I just got an dremel so I may get the polishing kit that they have for them and take the crap this is on the out side of the rod. I may blue or even brown it.

I am just going to stick with the pre threaded tips. there is a TSC store near by, I think they carry aluminum rods. so I may began work on upgrading the ramrods on my inlines first. findings this ends want to come off at the range when I swab between shots.

[Mumblypeg]

I made some for 36cal. TC Seneca from aluminum arrow shafts. Inserts for broadhead fits screw in accessories.

[northmn]

I have used one made out of a 5/16 brass rod for many years. For those using wooden rods, learn to use short strokes and do not grip so far up when loading. A sloser grip to the muzzle will prevent breakage.

Northmn

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Straitness of the ramrod matters little (wood rods). The grain is more important. You do not want grain to run out the side of the rod. If it were to break it will break along the grain leaving a very sharp pike point. Heaven help you if you are pushing down with force when the rod lets go.

I've sorted through oak dowels at Menards and found a couple that had grain going all the way through. They make for some VERY durable rods.

I also tried someone's trick of boring out the primer cup of .45-70 brass to accomodate a 3/8" ramrod. Then cut the brass short. This makes an excellent muzzle protector that stays on the ramrod right in the thimbles. I just keep a cleaning jag on the rod which keeps the muzzle protector in place.

[northmn]

You can buy muzzleprotectors out of the better ML supply stores like Track of the Wolf. They last for a long time. Original ramrods were split out with a froe, todays are doweled. Its a wonder you can find anything with the grain running all the way. Straight rods are not a neccessary as you would think as many were bent in the thimbles. Ramrod tips are also available from the same sources and can be fitted on to the end of metal rods with a little judicious filing. Soldered or glued and PINNED. Pinning helps to guarantee they stay on. I ahve made ball pullers out of brass screws and like them OK. No danger of hurting the barrel. I cut them down and use a die on one end.

Northmn

[Junior1942]

Warning: the gray coat on aluminum rods is aluminum oxide. It will grind diamonds, I read.

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

When you go to the hardware store check out the sandpaper. You'll find several types that are made with "Aluminum Oxide". Hard stuff. Another abrasive shooters often overlook is polyester. I make my own cleaning patches w/ old T-Shirts but I will not use any with a polyester content. Try a 50/50 cotton polyester patch once and see if the patches never come out clean. Always some black on it. Well it just might be iron your scrubbing out of the bore.


Its a wonder you can find anything with the grain running all the way.

I just made it a practice to stop by the dowels any time I'm in Menards. If they have one w/ no run-out I'll snap it up. Haven't bought one in quite a while.

[Hang Fire]

normally with the last 3 or 4 trips to the range, I use nothing but the gun's ram rod. having 5 muzzys one being an 45cal gets to be a little fun when you take more then one.

I am frugal (AKA cheap) and dislike waiting for something I need now, so use cartridge cases for RR ends. Deprime cases, 30 carbine works great for smaller calibers, bottle necked ones can be cut to length, tapered cases can be made straight with a long relief on end of metal rod and case lubricate to prevent sticking. (clean inside afterwards with mineral spirits) Even if rimmed, the rim can be turned down with a file and case chucked up in drill press. I use aluminum tape to seal, or can use a toothpick to plug flash hole and cut off flush, use enough hard solder for about 1/4" fill up, sit on metal plate or vise, heat case with torch to melt solder, cool down, then drill and tap for desired thread. Fit to RR as normal, epoxy in place and cross pin, sand and polish if desired.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/TANSTAAFL-2/accoutrements.jpg

[beemer]

One of the best parts of muzzleloaders is making your own acessories. Ramrods, powderhorns, bags from old boots(mine were bought in 63) and patch knives. I carry my balls in a little gourd and caps in a little horn with a brass lid. I do use a plastic ramrod, I don't like the idea but a very close call with a wooden one changed my mind. I really need to make a proper one out of hickory.

beemer

[corey012778]

I may end up making myself an shot starter soon. took a look at mine, it is getting pretty warn out. lol

[northmn]

I agree to making accessories. Some do not cost so much less to make but are better. A short starter can be made with a ramrod tip and one can screw in jags for caliber if desired. Or one can make short starters to match the caliber w/o tips.
Shot bags for shotguns cost plenty and a small one can be made that works fine out of about any cloth or leather. Loading blocks are a big one. When I hunt I often can carry all my stuff in a jacket pocket. I used a 32 revolver powder flask, a loading block holding 3 or 4 patched round ball with a short starter attached (often use a looser combo and use just the ramrod) a powder measure and a priming horn. I also carry a homemade screw driver/ flintnapper and a couple of extra flints/one leather. I really do not need a possibles pouch out in the field. One item that also works very well if one switches coats due to weather is a belt pouch holding those items.

Nortnmn

[renegade]

Here's a tip. A 223 case. Cut the neck & shoulder off. Reduce the diameter of rods end so the case fits over it. Drill out the primer pocket and tap with 8 or 10/32 thread. You can also use a case(same caliber as the rifle that is being cleaned) as a cleaning rod guide in centerfire rifles by drilling out the primer pocket to slightly larger diameter than the rod your using.Works well in single shot centerfire rifles.

[357maximum]

Most doweling in the hardware store is made from raminwood not oak. I actually use them for arrowshafts...my friendly tru-value guy is really friendly...and understanding:wink: Raminwood dowels make cedar shafts look like balsa in use...tough stuff...just watch the grain....straightness can be gotten to...bad grain cannot be fixed.

[renegade]

Forgot to mention.To soak the rod.Buy PVC tube,smallest I.D you can get away with and 2 endcaps for it.Glue on 1 end cap,place ramrod in the tube and then fill (use a funnel) with whatever you want to use(oils,solvents,dies,lacquares).place (as in press not glue) the other cap on the end and set aside for however long you want. Less mess,less smelly,less wasteful

[357maximum]

Just found out that a derimmed /tapped 357max case will make a dandy ramrod end with a raminwood dowel. Hangfires post inspired me, thanks now I have a use for those max cases that have loose primer pockets from some of my early "PROOF" loads[smilie=1:

[Charlie Sometimes]

For a range rod, I've always used a Super Rod that Mtn St Muzzleloaders sold (someone else may sell them now- i think Cabela's sells something similar). They made two sizes if I remember right. Unbreakable, and always too long. I would cut off the extra length and make ball starters from that. I would use solid core golf balls for the round part to protect your hand (the bright colors are real eye catching). A "U" drill bit was the proper size to drill for the rod, and then cross pinned with a brass or stainless 1/8 inch pin to secure it. A "U" bit is a very tight fit. If you get your rod hung up with a stuck patch or trying to remove a ball, you can place the ball in the fork of a tree, etc. and pull the rifle off of it- works great. I never liked the metal rods, besides being too heavy, they mash the ball out of round too easily when seating it down against the powder. It's too easy to put that extra few taps in there.

[357maximum]

Just found out that a derimmed /tapped 357max case will make a dandy ramrod end with a raminwood dowel. Hangfires post inspired me, thanks now I have a use for those max cases that have loose primer pockets from some of my early "PROOF" loads[smilie=1:

Just an update: 357max case not such a hot idea..i stuck an oversized patch in one of my 50's this past weekend and when I pulled I was actually able to slice the case with my through pin....ended up shooting the jag/rrod end out of the gun by putting powder in the nipple hole..lost my good jag in the woods...so I did not save any $$ on this idea. Going to try a .223 case next I guess....DOH :sad: