.22 Hornet Reloading List?

[skeletor1977]

Hey guys, and thank you in advance for any help. So, I've bought a Hornet.... In particular a Sako M78 with what I believe to be a 1 in 16in twist barrel (factory barrel) I am new to reloading and want to get started right. If you were making a list of what is needed what would it look like? I want everything I need complete. Here's my list of what I have:

-Sako M78 Hornet
-Lee hand press
-300 Privi Fire-formed once fired brass
-I did mention I am new.......

After extensive reading I think I've settled on a NOE 39 grain GC 4 cavity mold w/ top punch, Lee Collet Die, small pistol primers and some Lil' Gun powder but am open to other suggestions.
But what else? Again I'm looking for "If you have that, that will be all you ever need" kind of list. Again thank you in advance.

-Matthew

[dtknowles]

What do you have for lead and casting pot? What will you use for lube? Will you size the bullets? What is your barrel's groove diameter?

Tim

[skeletor1977]

What do you have for lead and casting pot? What will you use for lube? Will you size the bullets? What is your barrel's groove diameter?

Tim

Tim, thank you for the reply. Wheel weights, and some old mixed sized shotgun shot as I do reload for shotgun. No casting pot as of yet. As for lube, I'll used whatever is sufficient for the purpose. I will size.... so what will I need there? Barrel is .224 I think.

[dtknowles]

Wheel weights and shot will make a fine or even harder than necessary alloy unless you are thinking of velocities like 2500 or 3000 fps. Then you are in the range for experts.

I have a Ruger #3 in .22 Hornet and I load plain base bullet as cast pan lubed in unsized cases and am pretty happy. I only push them to 1800 fps. If I want to go faster I use jacketed bullets or factory ammo. Hornady 37 gr. Vmax ammo shoot better than I can load on my best day. Well under an inch at 100 yards at over 3000 fps. I don't shoot a lot of that ammo, cost is not object but shooting my cast bullets is a pleasure.

I don't really know what to suggest, pan lube and use a Lee or other push thru die, get a lubrisizer, or powder coat. Do some research and figure out what matters to you.

Tim

[Larry Gibson]

Hey guys, and thank you in advance for any help. So, I've bought a Hornet.... In particular a Sako M78 with what I believe to be a 1 in 16in twist barrel (factory barrel) I am new to reloading and want to get started right. If you were making a list of what is needed what would it look like? I want everything I need complete. Here's my list of what I have:

-Sako M78 Hornet
-Lee hand press
-300 Privi Fire-formed once fired brass
-I did mention I am new.......

After extensive reading I think I've settled on a NOE 39 grain GC 4 cavity mold w/ top punch, Lee Collet Die, small pistol primers and some Lil' Gun powder but am open to other suggestions.
But what else? Again I'm looking for "If you have that, that will be all you ever need" kind of list. Again thank you in advance.

-Matthew

Get the 4 die set with the full length sizer also as some times the cases, after numerous firing with full power jacketed loads, will need partial sizing. Not sure you can FL size with the hand press but you'll need some case lube so the Lee case lube will work. Mostly you will just need to use the collet die to neck size the already fire formed cases.

A Lyman short 22 M-die to flair the case mouth before seating bullet. I use this with both jacketed and cast bullets to be able to start the bullet base into the case mouth. Hornet cases are very thin and it's real easy to scrunch a case when seating the bullet.

The NOE bullet will do fine for cast bullet shooting. Are you buying or making the GCs? Are you HT/PCing or lubing the bullets?

Lil'Gun powder will be excellent for jacketed bullets but isn't really for cast bullets. For cast bullets the old standard powders such as Bullseye, Red Dot and Unique are best for velocities of 800 - 1500 fps. A bit slower powders such as 2400, 4227 and Blue Dot are best for 1500 - 2600 fps.

I've been loading the Hornet for use with cast bullets in numerous rifles and Contenders along with jacketed bullets since the early '70s. It is a great cartridge.

[Wayne Smith]

First you need reloading dies and shell holder. That is basic - you have the press but you might want to look at a mounted press rather then the hand press. Lee Classic Cast is the best currently going and not too expensive either. Secondly you need the Lyman 50th Edition reloading book, it gives the complete process of reloading. Read it before you do anything else.

My recommendation is that you learn to reload first, then learn to cast. No point climbing two learning curves at one time. Reloading is basic and if/when you make a mistake in this process you can blow up your gun - it behooves you to learn this well and develop good habits with condom bullets before you add the complexity of shooting cast out of a .22 caliber barrel.

Them add casting to the mix. When you make a mistake here you simply throw it back into the pot and cast again. The consequences of a mistake here are way less.

Then when you add shooting soft alloy boolits through a small caliber barrel - not an easy task - you will be on a solid basis of understanding the reloading process, of knowing the effects of pressure, and handling the leading of your barrel with greater ease and confidence. This may be a multiple year process - don't be in a hurry.

[richhodg66]

I'm generally not a fan of Lee dies for bottle neck, but I really like their collet type neck sizer dies for the Hornet. Get something to flare the case mouth, Lyman M die or the Lee universal expander.

My advice, don't try to match jacketed velocities with cast. One of the beauties of the Hornet is how well it downloads and that was why I got into it in the first place, to replace .22 LR. In my Savage 219, I really like the NOE 45 grain WFN, I ordered mine with all plain based bullets and it is a fox squirrel killing machine with that bullet. I use two grains of Bullseye, never chronographed it, but guessing 1300 FPS or so. Works great.

[mdi]

Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading!

I normally suggest a text to brand new reloaders; The ABCs of Reloading. It will show what reloading is all about with "How To", equipment, component descriptions/explanations, and casting. Research as much as you can before buying much more (remember the answers you get on a forum are opinions from anonymous screen names telling you what they think is best for you).

Starting casting and starting reloading at the same time can be rather troublesome, wondering if the problems you find are from your cast bullets or your reloading methods. So I normally suggest a new feller starts with a tried and true "J" bullet and get the reloading side down first and then learn casting's finer points and reloading for cast.

[Spedsterguy]

Im a big fan of 2400. I have several hornets, a 218 bee and a K Hornet. 2400 works great and I have a few pet loads with it

[dh2]

The 22 Hornet is small thin case, and is easily damaged during reloading, I agree use a bench mounted press , and learn to load it first then cast.

[wmitty]

You might try using Ben’s liquid lube (BLL) and a lee push through sizing die to seat gas checks. Not familiar with that particular NOE design but it seems to be very easy to damage a boolit with a lubrisizer if you’re trying to reduce as cast diameter. The M-die opens the case mouth and increases the inside diameter of the case neck ( when the case has been full length sized or neck sized) while the lee die flares the case mouth. Using the collet die might allow sizing to an inside neck diameter that will give you correct neck tension, but you may need to use a slightly larger mandrel within the die. You need some way of flaring the case mouth very slightly in order to not crush the neck when seating the gas checked boolit. The lee die works well for this.

[Eddie Southgate]

Lee hand case trimmer and case mouth chamfering tool should be on your list . I second the recommendation that you get a copy of the ABC's of Reloading . You will have no extra trouble with the hornet using a hand press as long as you are very careful to be sure the case starts in your dies straight . Save the Little Gun to use with the excellent 35 grain Hornady Vmax bullets if and when you are ever able to find them , Unique and Red Dot for cast .

[sukivel]

All sound advice above, and I agree on learning to reload and then start casting.

The other big thing I would not do if I were you...learn reloading on the 22 Hornet! Start with something easier like .357 or .44 or even .45-70, especially since you are planning on casting. Even if you don’t have one of those calibers, go buy one. You’ll understand later.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wayne Smith]

I don't mind learning reloading on the Hornet = but it's not the place to start learning to shoot cast boolits, agreed.

BTW - 2400 was so named because it achieved 2400fps in the original Hornet!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Casting small boolits, like 22 cal, especially that light 39gr NOE (I have an older version of that NOE mold, when NOE called it a 37gr...but both are a copy of the Lyman 225438) can be quite challenging. I agree with others saying you should learn to reload with Jacketed bullets first. Then when you start casting, maybe cast some pistol boolits first, assuming you have a pistol?

Also, Larry gave you some great powder advice when he said, "Lil'Gun powder will be excellent for jacketed bullets but isn't really for cast bullets. For cast bullets the old standard powders such as Bullseye, Red Dot and Unique are best for velocities of 800 - 1500 fps. A bit slower powders such as 2400, 4227 and Blue Dot are best for 1500 - 2600 fps."

[Three44s]

A big welcome to the forum, casting and handloading!

All great advice here already.

I also advocate getting the handloading going and then ease into casting after a while. You will be glad you took your time phasing into casting.

No use wrestling twin tigers at the same time.

I also agree with handloading for a somewhat larger cartridge first. A .223 or larger would be a flatter learning curve.

Casting with larger bores like a .38 or .357 or larger is a better place to learn casting. The smaller the boolit, the steeper the learning curve.

Best regards

Three44s

[dtknowles]

You will be alright, I started reloading 30-30 when I was 14 years old and did it on my own with only a Lyman manual. The .22 Hornet is just a small 30-30. I did start with jacketed bullets but I don't think you need to but like others have said. The 37 gr. V-max bullet and Lil Gun will give you confidence. That load just clicks. Soon I was casing bullets with my Lyman 31141 mold and sizing them in my Lyman 450 and shooting wheelweights to my hearts content. I suggest as others have for you to get a faster pistol powder and use it for your first cast bullet loads.

Tim

[skeletor1977]

Thank you to everyone for all your help. I've never seen a more helpful sharing forum.

[skeletor1977]

Wheel weights and shot will make a fine or even harder than necessary alloy unless you are thinking of velocities like 2500 or 3000 fps. Then you are in the range for experts.

I have a Ruger #3 in .22 Hornet and I load plain base bullet as cast pan lubed in unsized cases and am pretty happy. I only push them to 1800 fps. If I want to go faster I use jacketed bullets or factory ammo. Hornady 37 gr. Vmax ammo shoot better than I can load on my best day. Well under an inch at 100 yards at over 3000 fps. I don't shoot a lot of that ammo, cost is not object but shooting my cast bullets is a pleasure.

I don't really know what to suggest, pan lube and use a Lee or other push thru die, get a lubrisizer, or powder coat. Do some research and figure out what matters to you.

Tim

Thanks Tim. If you don't mind.... what is your recipe for the cast plain base bullet at 1800fps? Also is your No. 3 a 1 in 16 barrel?

[dtknowles]

Thanks Tim. If you don't mind.... what is your recipe for the cast plain base bullet at 1800fps? Also is your No. 3 a 1 in 16 barrel?

I don't have my notes here they are at a different house but I have this blurry picture of the NOE bullet in question.

274612

I said I pan lube them but I was often just smearing the lube in the grooves with my fingers. Like I said they were unsized, as cast and loaded into unsized cases. I was dropping the charges not weighing them and I think I was using Green Dot. I was decapping, charging using a powder drop measure and then lubing the bullets with my fingers and seating them. I will check my notes on bullet alloy and powder charge and rifle twist. Groups were under 3 inches at 100 yards. I wiped the bullets and case necks to remove excess lube and did have to clean the seating die from time to time because of excess lube. I could seat this flat nose bullet without the seating die by eye on my turret press by putting the turret between die stations and just pressing the bullet against the underside of the turret.

I checked NOE's website and I don't see my mold. The mold is at the other house too.

Maybe if you respond to this with a simple tell me more, it will remind me to check tomorrow when I am at the other house, that is where I work from home. It is back to work on Monday.

Tim

[dtknowles]

I see I made this post back in 2014. I think my accuracy claims are on the optimistic side. I am sure I did shoot some groups under 2 MOA at 100 yards but between 2 and 3 was more likely.

274613

Tim

[Iowa Fox]

2 gr of red dot or 2 gr of 700x or 2 gr of bulls eye makes for some fun shooting in the contender barrels. I use the Lee collet neck die.

[dtknowles]

Thanks Tim. If you don't mind.... what is your recipe for the cast plain base bullet at 1800fps? Also is your No. 3 a 1 in 16 barrel?

I checked my notes and I used 3.6 gr. of Green Dot with a 45 gr. NOE plain base bullet cast from an alloy with a BHN of 13 hand lubed with NRA 50/50 as cast with a diameter of 0.227" the Chrono gave an average velocity of 1790 fps for a five shot string. At 3.0 gr. of Green Dot the average velocity was 1584 fps. I have not measured the twist rate for my rifle.

Tim