Aluminum or Brass mold for H&G 68

[mvintx]

My Gold Cup National Match has been hiding in the safe for many years, abandoned and unloved. I've never shot it and it's filthy from the previous owner. I've got brass, dies, even a few 230 grain RN and some 185 grain TMJs but from what I've been reading here, the H&G 68 is THE boolit to use. So I've got to make a decision as to which mold to buy. I have a MP brass mold that's finicky as all get out (.40 cal 165 TC). I have to run my pot at 800 to get consistent fillout and I still have more rejects than any of my Lyman iron molds. If I run the pot at cooler temps, the reject rate goes even higher (50/50 COWW and PB + 2% Sn). I've cast about a thousand boolits with it and it's well broken in.

If you had it to do all over again, would you buy aluminum or brass and from which mold maker? MP is out of stock and there's no telling when he's going to make more.

[tazman]

Aluminum without a doubt. I have never used an MP mold but have used NOE and LEE. Both companies make a clone of the H&G 68.
NOE molds are superb. Lee molds are good.
Choose whichever you wish.

[USSR]

I've got the brass MP version of the H&G #68 mould and it casts perfectly, as do all the other 8 or 9 of their brass moulds I have. Don't know exactly what is going on with yours.

Don

[Larry Gibson]

What tazman said. I've had several brass moulds. All gave trouble and were finicky. Never had such problems with MP, NOE or Lee moulds or Lyman and RCBS iron moulds for that matter. Won't ever buy another brass mould.

[d4xycrq]

I bought the Lee mould. Hadn’t heard of NOE, yet. Lee bullets are fine. You can crank out a LOT of bullets with a six-gang mould.

[DAFzipper]

I have a aluminum M&P and love it. I have several brass moulds. I've found mine need to be run hot. Also seems to take 3 or 4 casting sessions to get it running well.

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

[StuBach]

I have the 68 clone from MP and it casts like a dream. Always make sure you clean thoroughly and heat cycle the molds a few times before you start casting. My first brass mold gave me the same issues your describing till I cleaned it back to factory clean and than followed the conditioning steps outlined several places here and on MPs site. Have added several since and rarely have issues.

If I had to do it again though I’d have Tom at Accurate cut me a iron mold in the 68. Since buying my MP 68 I found a good condition original HG 68 and their iron molds can’t be beat by anyone.

[alamogunr]

I've got 2 of the four cavity brass H&G 68 clone and an aluminum six cavity. The aluminum mold was apparently Miha's first attempt at an aluminum mold. It casts somewhat egg shaped. Not so much that it isn't corrected by sizing but since the brass molds work so well, it just sits on the shelf. I may have to get it out and try it again.

[Targa]

I have brass, aluminum and iron molds, I prefer aluminum.

[country gent]

I would also take into consideration a 6 cavity mold in brass is going to be much heavier than a 6 cavity in aluminum. This may make a difference during longer sessions. I have a fre barss moulds from old wet and they cast very nice bullets.

[toallmy]

I can't seem to cast a bad boolit from my saeco 4 cavity 45 molds # 68 or # 130 after preheating the mold . I know your choice was brass or aluminum but it doesn't hurt to keep your options open . By the way the 6 cavity lee rains boolits , but you need to be gentle with it . NOE 5 cavity aluminum molds are wonderful also and reasonable priced for a good working mold . I like brass molds but for bulk casting of a favorite Boolit I'd go iron or NOE aluminum .
The only problem with the molds I mentioned above is you will need a bigger pot .

[Mal Paso]

I only buy brass Hollow Point molds because that's what MP makes. I would pay extra to have one in Iron. He makes Iron machine molds, maybe some day.

Brass is a machinists delight but not he best for casting. Heat cycling to get some oxidation on the surfaces helps but brass will tin. Preheating the mold on a hotplate with the bottom of the pins on the heating surface is the way to start a casting session. Running too hot accelerates tinning.

All the solid bullets I cast are in aluminum or iron molds, got tired of cleaning brass.

[Forrest r]

30+ brass molds over the decades, never a issue & excellent quality cast bullets.

Bought a MP version of the #68 years ago, sold my H&G 6-cavity mold and never looked back.

[Rich/WIS]

Never used brass but have used a Lyman 4 banger for 38 WC and Lee 6 banger for their clone of the #68. The Lyman was old and dirty when I got it but after several cleanings cast well but was HEAVY and tiring to use. The Lee OTOH cast well right out of the box and is, to me at least, more user friendly with the lever to cut the sprues. When I stopped shooting WC sent the Lyman down the road, and only 38 I cast now is with the Lee 6 banger for their 158 RF, which are for my best bud.

[Loudy13]

I have an aluminum 6 gang MP HG68 clone and it starting dropping perfect bullet almost immediately, it is a pain keeping the pot full. I like brass molds but they are heavy.

[DHDeal]

When I'm casting with any of my MP brass molds (all HP) I think brass has got to be the easiest mold to cast with. Then when I put one of my Accurate aluminum molds on the handles, I think aluminum has got to be the easiest mold to cast with. No help from me here as I like both. Different to cast with as far as cadence and heat is concerned but both types are great.

As Mal Paso mentions, a brass mold is a study and can and probably will get some tinning if you don't watch for or anticipate it. It's relatively easy to see when it happens and I keep a carpenters pencil handy and some hard heavy duty qtips (large gun cleaning type) to wipe it off. As long as a brass mold is well used, you don't try to cast super fast and super hot, you can drop some wonderful bullets quickly.

mvintx, I'd take that MP mold you have apart and look at the parting lines and check for tinning. If any is there, get it cleaned off and try a ladle with pressure casting. I use the same alloy (and also 20/1) so I use tin rich alloys and will get tinning if I'm not careful. Like yours, my MP brass molds want to be close to 800° so that's what they get. I've always had better luck at or near 800° so that's my standard temp. I only ladle cast and only pressure cast and my MP's are fabulous (11 or 12 molds to date). But an Accurate aluminum mold will cast just as well for me and is slightly faster as I don't have the extra tap tap tap involved.

[rockrat]

Go on the Arsenal website and see if you can find the design. You can get a 5 cav. fairly quickly I think, but check. My last mould from them was a H&G 503 copy and it casts spot on in diameter and the boolits just about fall from the mould.

[mvintx]

When I'm casting with any of my MP brass molds (all HP) I think brass has got to be the easiest mold to cast with. Then when I put one of my Accurate aluminum molds on the handles, I think aluminum has got to be the easiest mold to cast with. No help from me here as I like both. Different to cast with as far as cadence and heat is concerned but both types are great.

As Mal Paso mentions, a brass mold is a study and can and probably will get some tinning if you don't watch for or anticipate it. It's relatively easy to see when it happens and I keep a carpenters pencil handy and some hard heavy duty qtips (large gun cleaning type) to wipe it off. As long as a brass mold is well used, you don't try to cast super fast and super hot, you can drop some wonderful bullets quickly.

mvintx, I'd take that MP mold you have apart and look at the parting lines and check for tinning. If any is there, get it cleaned off and try a ladle with pressure casting. I use the same alloy (and also 20/1) so I use tin rich alloys and will get tinning if I'm not careful. Like yours, my MP brass molds want to be close to 800° so that's what they get. I've always had better luck at or near 800° so that's my standard temp. I only ladle cast and only pressure cast and my MP's are fabulous (11 or 12 molds to date). But an Accurate aluminum mold will cast just as well for me and is slightly faster as I don't have the extra tap tap tap involved.

DHDdeal, I've had a couple of tinning spots and they were a real beast to remove. And bullets don't just drop out either...tap, tap, tap like you said. My iron molds do not exhibit any of those traits. I priced a 4 cavity iron mold at Accurate and yikes, $212.

[mvintx]

Go on the Arsenal website and see if you can find the design. You can get a 5 cav. fairly quickly I think, but check. My last mould from them was a H&G 503 copy and it casts spot on in diameter and the boolits just about fall from the mould.

Was that an aluminum mold?? They have the H&G 68 at 210 grains, .453" diameter for $83.

[fredj338]

A high quality alum mold, like Accurate, is a joy to cast with. Brass is stupid heavy & the heat thing seems all over the place. I would rather have a good iron mold over brass, but once you go over 4cavs, iron gets really heavy to work with.

[USSR]

For the life of me, I don't understand why some guys don't like brass moulds. They are a joy to cast with. Got another one on the way from Tom at Accurate Molds.

Don

[DHDeal]

mvintx,
I cut the sprue, flip the mold, and tap on the handle bolt while opening the mold. One or two bullets usually drop but that leave a few lightly stuck to the pins. A couple more taps and they all drop. Not much more to it with all of my MP's.

With the Accurate aluminum molds, I can cut the sprue and flick the mold open and usually all bullets drop. Occasionally I'll need to tap on the bolt to get a few loose. Easier as there isn't any flipping, but man the MP's drop HP's!!!!

I've never priced an iron Accurate mold, so I never worried about the extra cost. The aluminum one's he makes are more than good enough for me. If I'd never tried a MP brass mold I would consider an Accurate aluminum mold my favorite.

[megasupermagnum]

For the life of me, I don't understand why some guys don't like brass moulds. They are a joy to cast with. Got another one on the way from Tom at Accurate Molds.

Don

I always scratch my head why anyone would ever willingly choose brass.:confused: Thankfully we have plenty of choices today, and they all work.

I've hated every brass mold I ever had. The only exceptions are the single round ball molds from Jeff Tanner, but even then I would pay extra for aluminum if I had the option. Between the weight, the build up, and especially the lack of heat control, I never liked Brass. Aluminum is very light, very easy to control, and doesn't seem to build up metal over time (AKA "tinning"). I can understand those who like steel/iron for the durability. If you actually like how brass will soak and holds heat, then I don't see why you wouldn't prefer the slightly lighter and much more durable steel.

[mvintx]

The only aluminum molds I have are the first generation Lees that I bought when I first got into casting in the 1987 or so and I still have them. But based on my experience with brass, I think I'm done with them. They're like trophy wives...expensive and needy. Yes, they're beautiful but the drawbacks outweigh the benefits. Maybe it's time to try a modern aluminum mold.

[USSR]

Please contact me regarding your needy and troublesome brass moulds. If I can use it, I'll gladly buy it off you.

Don

[mvintx]

Please contact me regarding your needy and troublesome brass moulds. If I can use it, I'll gladly buy it off you.

Don

I may be frustrated with it, but I'm not ready to get rid of it. Perhaps the next time I cast with it I'll get better results but unless things change drastically, it'll be the last brass mold I buy.

[bluejay75]

Brass holds heat well but if you let it cool during casting it seems like the tin in your alloy will stick to it. Cleaning that sucks. Makes my hands hurt thinking about it. They do make the prettiest boolits though.

[rockrat]

Yes, it was an aluminum mould. I like brass moulds, but they are getting a bit heavy for my tastes. The Aluminum are so much easier on my hand.

[slohunter]

I have brass, steel and aluminum molds. The brass and steel ones are collecting dust.

[mvintx]

Brass holds heat well but if you let it cool during casting it seems like the tin in your alloy will stick to it. Cleaning that sucks. Makes my hands hurt thinking about it. They do make the prettiest boolits though.

Even with my pot temp at 800, I have to cast my brass mold at a furious pace and none of the bullets are frosted. I understand those that like brass but it gives me fits. I want it to work and it's frustrating that it's so finicky. It's kind of like trying to understand some things in the bible...you just have to accept it.

[USSR]

800 degrees!!!! Don't know what the heck you are doing wrong, but my pot is set at 720 degrees and I have no problem. What with all the guys that are trashing brass moulds, I'm still waiting to hear from them with offers to sell.:wink:

Don

[Targa]

I will have to say that the two brass molds I have cast some wonderful bullets. My Arsenal can be a bit fussy to get in the sweet spot but once it does it stays there. My MP mold is absolutely impressive, I come up with reasons to cast with that thing.
With that said, aluminum still makes me smile the most from a comfort stand point and they are so easy to get to a good rhythm just need a wet sponge lying around to cool them down a bit depending on how many cavities and what caliber the mold is.

[oldhenry]

I have the #068 clone in a 4 cav. SAECO (steel) & a 6 cav. (alum) MP. The SAECO overall dimensions are small for a 4 cav. which makes it overheat, but this feature makes it good when used with another 4 cav. steel. I have 3 MP brass molds & dearly love them. I know that when I cast with them I must use one mold only to keep the heat in the correct range.

It would be hard to beat a 6 cav. alum. mold for the #068. I'm happy with the MP & could be happy with an Accurate or Arsenal 5 cav. aluminum. Actually I recently find myself preferring the molds w/o the 3rd. handle.

[StuBach]

I generally cast my brass molds around 695deg and rarely have issues once everything is up and running. I do use a heating plate to ensure mold temp though and a usually have about a 2%~3% tin ratio in my loads. Even my Keith style 38 bullet with square grooves drops well.

I’m with Don, with so many people unhappy with their brass molds I’m not seeing any for sale?

[USSR]

Santa (Tom at Accurate Molds) came today with my newest brass mould. It's this one for my buddy's .45 Colt lever action rifle: http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-250Y-D.png. I am just now heat cycling the mould in the oven, and will do that a couple of times before hopefully casting with it tomorrow.

Don

[Mal Paso]

My MP 432-640 likes to run about 690F, the 432 Larsen 700F, ProMelt2 with 95.5/3.5/1 alloy.

I try to stay away from the deeply grooved brass molds. The #503 would get oxide build ups right next to the block face and hang up the bullets. I had 4 brass #503s in rotation for cleaning to keep up with my #503 habit. I'm running the 6 cavity MP 503 aluminum with a 5c Arsenal aluminum back up now. Still have a brass #503 just in case.

[megasupermagnum]

800 degrees!!!! Don't know what the heck you are doing wrong, but my pot is set at 720 degrees and I have no problem. What with all the guys that are trashing brass moulds, I'm still waiting to hear from them with offers to sell.:wink:

Don

Too late. I sold my last one in the spring sometime.

[mvintx]

I know, it's crazy running the pot at 800 degrees but I'm not the only one.

[USSR]

mvintx,

Are you preheating your mold on a hot plate or something? It just doesn't add up that your pot is at 800 degrees. What alloy are you using? Even if you were casting with pure lead, I don't know that your pot would need to be that high.

Don

[HangFireW8]

More evidence that casting thermometers are often wildly inaccurate. Look at my gallery for some examples.

[megasupermagnum]

More evidence that casting thermometers are often wildly inaccurate. Look at my gallery for some examples.

Yes, I too doubt the accuracy these cheap thermometers. As long as they are consistent though, they work. I have both a tel tru thermometer, and a PID. They differ by about 40 degrees F. Which is right, if either? All I know for sure is what temperature according to my PID produces good bullets for me.

[ioon44]

If I needed another H&G 68 mold I would buy a aluminum 5 cav from Accurate.