Pid ?

[Doubles Shooter]

I finally took the plunge and got an Inkbird PID kit from Amazon. I want to use it between both of my pots and the toaster oven for the PC. I'm putting a panel mount socket in the box so I can plug in each piece of equipment as needed. My question is, can I use regular copper wire to connect the socket to the PID or does it take something special?
I did screw up and pick up spare TC's that were only good to 400c. I'm thinking 600 would be better. No big loss however. I'm going to buy another PID kit and install it on my home built smoker at camp so I don't have to move my $220.00 Auber controller back and forth.
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[Mike W1]

Just cut a piece of the cable off of the TC and use that to hook up that panel socket. You need that special wire not a copper one.

[daloper]

If you have a Type K TC you will need to use Type K wire. You will also need to use a Type K TC socket to plug you sensor into.

[Doubles Shooter]

Yes, They are K-type. I really don't have need for the TC that came with the PID so I'll sacrifice it's wires. Plug and go will make it easier to swap between units. Thanks

[redhawk0]

I did the same thing with my PID to make it "portable" I sacrificed a foot of K-type wire from the end of my 6ft sensor for the connection from the PID to the connector. It works just fine. You just have to make sure the bare metal braiding doesn't touch either wire when you have it hooked up. (if you're original sensor had the braided outer sheath.)

redhawk

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Typically, you want as few connections as possible with thermocouple wire in a PID system. I wired mine direct, I even removed the crimp lugs as that is also a connection. But with our applications, we don't need to preciseness that these PID systems can deliver. I mention this, Because many here have done what you plan to do with a receptacle and plugs...Just be sure to be extra careful when connecting the thermocouple wire at each connection, because each one can become a problem. Also know, if you end up getting
some wonky temp readings with your finished unit, be sure to investigate your thermocouple connections.

[Flailguy]

I used regular copper wire to my TC plug on my pid box. Works just fine

[kevin c]

I'm not savvy with electrical stuff: are you talking about wiring to house current or to the probe itself?

Isn't the same bimetal wire used for all K type probes, and it's the insulating cover material on it that's rated for different operating temperatures? So, plastic covering the wire for lower temps, fiberglass for higher, and stainless steel braid and solid metal tubing around the probe tip for molten lead?

[oley55]

I used regular copper wire to my TC plug on my pid box. Works just fine

I did that for a while as well, matching the wire gauge and equal lengths as close as possible. Although it worked, every source I found and read assured me the same type wire as the thermocouple was/is required. Since my thermocouple was already shorter than I preferred, I had to buy 3 feet of k-type wire to get the 6-8 inches I needed. I can't say that it made any difference, but it provided me with piece of mind since I also use my PID for salt bath annealing and an over temp can be many boo koo dangerous.

[Doubles Shooter]

Got my first PID built and running. Got lucky and didn't have fire or sparks when I powered it up the first time. Still have to finish the bracket to hold the probe in the pot.

I built this one with the thermocouple hard wired to the PID because I plan to use it on my smoker at camp when I get the second PID built with with plug in TC's In the meantime I'm going to use on my pot.
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[oley55]

looks good. is that a home built project box?

I wish I had built a dual PID now after seeing how well these things control temps. I may have to build another or see if I can retro fit mine with a second pid. It’s kinda amazing how quickly those boxes fill up with components n connectors.

[Rizzo]

.....Still have to finish the bracket to hold the probe in the pot.

I use a piece of plumbers tape (metal strapping with holes in it) to hold my probe 1/2" from the bottom of the pot and 1/2" from the side. It is attached to the pot with one of the screws on the top of my Lee pot.

Simple, cheap and easy to bend.

[Doubles Shooter]

Yes. Just used scrap I had laying. I've been saving that aluminum for 40 years. I knew I would need it some day. The top and bottom is scrap Luan with 1x lumber on the sides.

[Stewbaby]

I like a carry handle...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201215/131d632182649e236cc58e79ae9141af.jpg

[Doubles Shooter]

I like a carry handle...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201215/131d632182649e236cc58e79ae9141af.jpg

I like that idea. Also the switched outlet. Nice work.

[oley55]

Stewbaby, great idea for a project box and internal storage for the thermocouples to boot.

How are you handling the internal heat build-up. Not seen in pic vent holes or do you open the lid?

[Stewbaby]

Stewbaby, great idea for a project box and internal storage for the thermocouples to boot.

How are you handling the internal heat build-up. Not seen in pic vent holes or do you open the lid?

Just running a Lee pot so the 700watts don’t put enough load on the SSR for heat to be a concern from my experience.

Don’t pick on my wiring too much lol

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201216/01a8f3c6cc1a080edd608dd8ead9510a.jpg

[oley55]

looks pretty clean to me.

[Petander]

Good looking boxes.

Is there a possibility for,say, an old casting pot to prematurely age up and break because of all that quick on/off switching when using a PID?

I value my old RCBS Pro Melt quite a bit. They are not being made the same any more. I have a couple of PID:s but I didn't connect them after all...

[oley55]

I'd think the opposite. It seems to me the failure of heating elements are usually related to prolonged full on operations. In my childhood I recall a friends parents opening the oven door and running it full on in an effort to stay warm during a rare low teens cold front in Florida. Eventually it went into 'arc welder' mode.

I look forward to seeing what an expert would have to say though.

[HATCH]

Good looking boxes.

Is there a possibility for,say, an old casting pot to prematurely age up and break because of all that quick on/off switching when using a PID?

The amount of wear and tear that you get by using a PID controller vs the factory mechanical style thermostat is negligible.
But I would argue that the wear and tear on the heating elements is done mostly by normal power up from cold to hot.
Meaning you have a heating element that is 70F (21C) and you heat it up to 700F (371c) causes more wear and tear then keeping the element heated up.
The expansion and contraction caused by going from cold to hot and back to cold again would be what hurts it the most.
With that being said, I would think a PID actually helps because you are maintaining a more stable temp which in turn leads to less expansion and contraction if any of that makes any sense.

On a build note -

Only the PID controller itself needs to be on a power switch.
You do not need to have the LOAD go thru the power switch.
The LOAD is switched by the SSR.
The SSR is switched by the PID. No power to the PID means no power to the SSR.
Yes, you can argue that the SSR may fail in the ON position and you have a run away pot that you will need to kill. Well in that case just pull the plug.
The PID controller itself pulls less 1/10th of a amp (120v). Your switch would NEVER burn up if it only controlled the PID.

[Stewbaby]

I add the switch so when I’m using it with my powder coat oven or pot and I want to walk away for a while I just flip that switch to kill the power to the oven or pot and don’t have to unplug or mess with dials. Just a convince thing for me. I have several of the combo outlets in my parts piles so they were ‘free issue’.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The amount of wear and tear that you get by using a PID controller vs the factory mechanical style thermostat is negligible.
But I would argue that the wear and tear on the heating elements is done mostly by normal power up from cold to hot.
Meaning you have a heating element that is 70F (21C) and you heat it up to 700F (371c) causes more wear and tear then keeping the element heated up.
The expansion and contraction caused by going from cold to hot and back to cold again would be what hurts it the most.
With that being said, I would think a PID actually helps because you are maintaining a more stable temp which in turn leads to less expansion and contraction if any of that makes any sense.

>>>SNIP

While I agree with this, I would add that heating element failure would likely happen faster, if you over heat the pot. Let's say you plug in a Lee pot and turn the dial up to MAX ...10 (or is it 9?) and walk away for 25 minutes and you come back to a pot that is 900º. I'd like to think that the heating element is designed to function over a long period of time in the temp range of 70º to 750º...but if at every time you fire it up, it runs up an extra 150+ degrees, you are pushing the design that much farther.

I mention this, because when I started casting, I assumed turning up the dial to max would make it get molten faster. NOW, I no longer believe it does, it just enables the melt to get to a overheated state, if not watched closely.

That's my 2¢