Cutting and reaming to make 460 rowland?

[lksmith]

Hey all, I'm wanting to shoot my rowland more but haven't shot it much due to not wanting to lose cases.
I know any case based on 30-06 or 308 (which is based on 30-06) will fit but the walls are way too thick.
Any ideas on how to safely ream or thin the walls of a cut down rifle case to use? Bonus points for an easy and/or quick ways.
Back in the 380 shortage several years back, I used the holder for a lee case length gauge in the drill and held the file on the inner part until it looked right and measured. That method worked but 460 rowland is MUCH higher pressure than 380, and I'm seeing a lot of folks having case separation issues on 9mm with stepped cases which I'd get if I used a reamer back to seating depth

[country gent]

There maybe a forming die set that has the trim die form die and reamer all in one set. A die could be made to size and hold the case with a hardened bushing to guide the reamer and ream to depth with a stop on the reamer. A trim die would be good also run case in and cut it close with a jewelers saw. Or a 2" cutoff saw and small fixture to rough cut the cases.

Once cases are sized they only need reamed to a little below bullet depth.

A decimal reamer could be reground to a more gradual taper to blend in to the head of the case. This could even be done with a fine stone and fixture by hand. You would need to section a 308 case and a 460 Rowland case to see the differences and go from there.

[lksmith]

There maybe a forming die set that has the trim die form die and reamer all in one set. A die could be made to size and hold the case with a hardened bushing to guide the reamer and ream to depth with a stop on the reamer. A trim die would be good also run case in and cut it close with a jewelers saw. Or a 2" cutoff saw and small fixture to rough cut the cases.

Once cases are sized they only need reamed to a little below bullet depth.

A decimal reamer could be reground to a more gradual taper to blend in to the head of the case. This could even be done with a fine stone and fixture by hand. You would need to section a 308 case and a 460 Rowland case to see the differences and go from there.

I have a Lyman case trimmer that I could use to cut down to length. I remember I had tried back in 2008-2009 to cut down a 308 case for 45ACP with a lee cutter and length gauge. wasn't long before the case ID got so small I couldn't get the gauge out at all. I know the 223 case walls were ~.022 and 380 was ~.011, but haven't measured rowland and 308. Pretty sure the rowland is about .013

[country gent]

Section a Rowland case and clean up the cut ( cut length wise down the center of the case) you can visually see the walls taper getting thicker towards the head. I would guess you are right about the .013 neck wall thickness. The 308 s taper starts at the shoulder/ neck junction growing towards the head

Unlike normal trimming of .005-.015 you are talking a few hundred thousandths or more. A lot of cranking on the trimmer and at least 2 pilot changes maybe 3. The trim die or cut off saw will make it much faster and easier.

[nicholst55]

Here's a related thread with some good suggestions. Forster sells tapered end inside reamers that are used with their case trimmers that might work for you: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?176386-Making-45-Super-from-30-06-brass

[SOFMatchstaff]

I understand the urge to make stuff that is expensive or un-obtainium, Ive done it and still do, but this case is $.27 new, quality, and available . It is a PITA even with a lathe, I know, as I had to make 41 Avenger and a couple of others long ago, and I already had all the tooling to do it. The end result for me was spotty and not up to what I thought of as consistant quality. The 577/450 project I"m doing now reinforced the PITA factor, but the $$ factor is the driving force.
I wouldn't bother with the Rowland 06/308 brass myself when the Starline case is so easy and cheap..... now back to sqweeeezzing CBC 24ga into Limey shoulder assassins...... have fun which ever way you go..

[lksmith]

I understand the urge to make stuff that is expensive or un-obtainium, Ive done it and still do, but this case is $.27 new, quality, and available . It is a PITA even with a lathe, I know, as I had to make 41 Avenger and a couple of others long ago, and I already had all the tooling to do it. The end result for me was spotty and not up to what I thought of as consistant quality. The 577/450 project I"m doing now reinforced the PITA factor, but the $$ factor is the driving force.
I wouldn't bother with the Rowland 06/308 brass myself when the Starline case is so easy and cheap..... now back to sqweeeezzing CBC 24ga into Limey shoulder assassins...... have fun which ever way you go..
Where are you referring to it being available and 27cents each? Checked midway, midsouth, natchez, bass pro and Brownells and all are out of stock.
When i was doing the 380 i was using cracked, crushed or otherwise not usable for 223 cases. Likely the same here, mostly cases that messed up when converting to 6.5creedmoor.

[BK7saum]

Backorderd, but minimum 500 order from starline for $155. or 1k for $276.50.

https://www.starlinebrass.com/460-rowland-brass

[SOFMatchstaff]

I will concede the availability factor, and suggest that you might want to try another base cartridge. the 45 win mag is a simple .220+- trim away from the Rowland and is actually cheaper and available. In fact I happen to have some that have no chance of being utilized in MY collection of odd crappe... and its looks encouraging as far as measurements go. Pm me if interested some samples.