Checkering file

[oldred]

Ok I am no stranger to files and filing, for years I have extensively used files of differing types and currently I have on hand 62 files if I count the files in my riffler sets. However there is not a single checkering file in the bunch as I have always before just used three-corner files for that purpose, even using glasses and/or magnifiers the fact is my eyesight is not what it once was nor am I near as steady, :( So now I am about to buy some Grobet checkering files and plan to buy a 20 LPI and a 40 LPI but I am not at all sure about the coarseness rating for either? I find them in no. 00 to no. 4 and while I am well familiar with these ratings I just don't know how to best choose the right file coarseness for checkering, these will be used almost exclusively for cutting new checkering but probably an old checkering repair occasionally. So for cutting new checkering what would be the best "all-round" coarseness number for a 20 LPI? How about the 40 LPI?

[pietro]

.

The coarseness will be different for different subjects.

The LPI would vary, depending upon where on the piece the checkering is to be placed, what the purpose of the location where the checkering is to be done, and the contour/shape of the area to be checkered.

.

[LAGS]

It has been years since I have done much checkering on wood or metal.
The lines per inch depends on if you need the checkering for gripping or just for decoration.
20 LPI is good for a non slip grip.
40 LPI is kind of fine and not as easy to do.

[oldred]

It has been years since I have done much checkering on wood or metal.
The lines per inch depends on if you need the checkering for gripping or just for decoration.
20 LPI is good for a non slip grip.
40 LPI is kind of fine and not as easy to do.

Yes I have already decided on a 20 LPI and 40 LPI but what I am unsure of is the coarseness (the cut no. such as cut 00, cut 0, cut 1 etc) for each LPI. For instance a 6" file with a 20 LPI can be had in a very coarse cut to a very fine cut and this is what has me wondering which is a good all-round choice for cutting new checkering. Would it be better to buy fine cut files or coarse cut files given I only intend to buy one of each, these files are $35 to around $50 each so buying a coarseness selection of each LPI style is cost prohibitive since I very likely will not use them all that much.

[LAGS]

Find something you like that is already checkered like a stock or pistol frame.
Then measure it to see how many LPI it was done with.
That can help you decide.
I don't think I have ever gone finer than 32 LPI on anything.
My hunting stocks were done with 16 LPI with checkering tools.
The parts on pistol frames or rifle safeties were done with checkering files at 20 to 32 LPI.
But that was just my preferance and within my budget at the time for the tools needed.

[ulav8r]

Not familiar with the cut numbers, but have done a little checkering. On small parts, a finer cut will be easier to use no matter how many lpi you are cutting. On larger parts, a coarser cut will cut faster without having to worry about keeping the file flat on the surface being cut.

[oldred]

Not familiar with the cut numbers, but have done a little checkering. On small parts, a finer cut will be easier to use no matter how many lpi you are cutting. On larger parts, a coarser cut will cut faster without having to worry about keeping the file flat on the surface being cut.

Yes I suppose I should just "split the difference" and order a cut 0 or a cut 1 for each, if they wouldn't so darn pricey I would just order a coarse and a fine in 20 LPI and the same for the 40 LPI. There's not much difference between a cut 0 and a cut 1 so I suppose I will just flip a coin to choose between a cut 0 or a cut 1 since that's about the middle of the road for a coarseness selection then order both the 20 LPI and the 40 LPI in the same coarseness range. If I am terribly disappointed with my selection I will just have to buy another pair, it's only a hundred bucks or so for the pair but at least the second time around I will be better prepared to make the selection.

[country gent]

What you might consider is 2 sets in each LPI one coarse for toughing in And a fine for finishing after the pattern is close. The wood being used also may determine what cut and LPI are needed coarse grained or open grain may not be able to take finer than 20 LPI. Tighter grained wood may take a lot finer and hold it better. While 40 LPI would look very good and hardly distract from fine well grained and figured walnut, I could see the fine diamonds being prone to chip off.

[oldracer]

I use the checkering tools made by Gunline and have had them for nine years now. I talked with the folks up there and bought the large set with two and three line cutters and edgers and so far have held up great.
John

[oldred]

May be a bit of a misunderstanding here and it's my fault, I should have been more clear about my intentions. These files will be used for checkering metal such as, for example the first project I intend to tackle, the front strap on a 1911 pistol. I also need them for much smaller uses like checkering hammer spurs.

Oldracer, I am glad you mentioned the gunline stock checkering tools since I will also be needing some wood checkering tools soon. I got one of the last Dembart sets sold apparently, a master set in 16 LPI but I need some in finer checkering and Dembart seems to be history now. Gunline sets are easy to find but I had heard the cutting blades are soft and dull a lot faster than Dembart blades, any thoughts on that?

[derek45]

I’ve done some 1911 front straps

brownells has the files

I’ll post pics when i get home from work

[oldred]

Ok the deed has been done, I decided not to be such a tight-wad and ordered both coarse and fine cuts for both the 20 LPI and the 40 LPI so I will have a choice of either coarse or fine cut when doing a job in 20 LPI or 40 LPI. When doing normal filing I use the finer cut (smoother) files much more than the coarser ones (I have no use at all for double cut files) and I suspect it will likely be the same with the checkering files. This likely means one or the other is going to be gathering dust in my file box but as the old saying goes "it's better to have and not need than to need and not have".

[M-Tecs]

Ok the deed has been done, I decided not to be such a tight-wad and ordered both coarse and fine cuts for both the 20 LPI and the 40 LPI so I will have a choice of either coarse or fine cut when doing a job in 20 LPI or 40 LPI. When doing normal filing I use the finer cut (smoother) files much more than the coarser ones (I have no use at all for double cut files) and I suspect it will likely be the same with the checkering files. This likely means one or the other is going to be gathering dust in my file box but as the old saying goes "it's better to have and not need than to need and not have".

Keep us posted as to what cut works best for you.

[derek45]

20 lines per inch brownells hand file.

used a piece of 90* angle iron to setup the horizontal lines, once you begin to cut, what you cut becomes the guide for what you are cutting.

This is the first one I tried, my mid 1990's IPSC blaster

https://i.imgur.com/Aqoquau.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EBbdNTk.jpg

Late 1990's IPSC gun.

https://i.imgur.com/QT09w7D.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wTkXGe0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ntXDsic.jpg

both guns had Ken Hallock mill the rear sight cut for Bo-Mar sights.

I did the beavertail, trigger guts, ambi safety, KART barrel fitting, ect.

METALIFE did the hard chrome, my paws will eat the bluing or parkerizing off a gun in one season.

[nicholst55]

20 lines per inch brownells hand file.

used a piece of 90* angle iron to setup the horizontal lines, once you begin to cut, what you cut becomes the guide for what you are cutting.

This is the first one I tried, my mid 1990's IPSC blaster

https://i.imgur.com/Aqoquau.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EBbdNTk.jpg

Late 1990's IPSC gun.

https://i.imgur.com/QT09w7D.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wTkXGe0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ntXDsic.jpg

both guns had Ken Hallock mill the rear sight cut for Bo-Mar sights.

I did the beavertail, trigger guts, ambi safety, KART barrel fitting, ect.

METALIFE did the hard chrome, my paws will eat the bluing or parkerizing off a gun in one season.

Looks good! The 20 LPI front strap checkering is really more aggressive than what many people prefer - unless they shoot with gloves. Springfield checkers most of their custom shop guns at 20 LPI, but most smiths use 25 or 30 LPI.

[oldred]

20 lines per inch brownells hand file.

used a piece of 90* angle iron to setup the horizontal lines, once you begin to cut, what you cut becomes the guide for what you are cutting.


Looks great, if I can get results like that I will be quite happy!

Although I have already ordered my files I would still be very much interested in knowing how coarse or fine the file was that you used?

[derek45]

Looks good! The 20 LPI front strap checkering is really more aggressive than what many people prefer - unless they shoot with gloves. Springfield checkers most of their custom shop guns at 20 LPI, but most smiths use 25 or 30 LPI.

I practiced every week, and shot matches every weekend with those guns.

did a 2 day 1000 round class with Matt Burkett with the 2nd one.

I never wore gloves, and never got sore paws

.

[derek45]

Looks great, if I can get results like that I will be quite happy!

Although I have already ordered my files I would still be very much interested in knowing how coarse or fine the file was that you used?

20 LPI is what I used.

I didn't follow up with any needle files or anything.

https://i.imgur.com/Smrmy9q.jpg

[oldred]

20 LPI is what I used.

I understand it was 20 LPI but was it a coarse or fine cut file? I think while searching I saw the 20 LPI in cut 00 to cut 2 and the 40 LPI in cut 00 to cut 4.

My main concern with my original question was since I intended to buy only one file in each LPI choice would a person be better served with a coarse cut or a fine cut? Obviously the finer cuts are meant to give a smoother finish while the coarser cuts are meant to cut faster, albeit a bit rougher, but it would seem likely there would be a good all-round choice somewhere in themiddle? Oh well it was only another $86 for two more over priced files but now I have a coarse or fine cut for either LPI choice so with any luck I will find out which is best in a few days.

[derek45]

I used this...

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/metal-checkering-files-prod488.aspx

no option for "corse" or "fine"

[oldred]

I used this...

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/metal-checkering-files-prod488.aspx

no option for "corse" or "fine"

I hadn't looked at Brownells closely until now because they are $15 to $20 dollars higher for the same Grobet file on Ebay where I bought mine and when buying multiple files that adds up. After checking their listing I see all they offer is cut 00 (very coarse) in both 20 LPI and 25 LPI and don't go any finer until 30 LPI (cut 0) then the more Lines per inch they go finer, cut 2 for the 50 LPI as an example. I opted to avoid the coarsest version and bought a cut 0 and a cut 1 in 20 LPI and the same in 40 LPI which is about mid-range but still offers some flexibility.