Rebarreling a Martini Cadet?

[Bwana John]

Hello,

Does anybody know how much barrel torque is required on a Martini Cadet?

Is there a "rule of thumb" for where a Martini Cadet barrel should hand time to before torqueing?

Does anybody make a Martini Cadet action wrench?

Does anyone know a good gunsmith that specializes in Martini Cadets?

Thanks!

[Nobade]

#1 - Not much.
#2 - Depends on how true the face is.
#3 - No. Use a big crescent wrench with paper to protect the finish.
#4 - Yes. Not sure he'll do work for pay any more though. What do you need done?

[john.k]

For over 30kpsi,you will need to reduce the firing pin dia ,and the hole in the block.

[pietro]

.

This guy's done a lot of Martini's (rifles, not drinks ;) ): https://www.chesebrorifles.com/

What cartridge are you planning on re-barreling to ?

I've always liked the idea of a small frame Martini in .256 Winchester mag...……………..

And, yes - the FP tip diameter must be reduced and a bushing installed in the breechblock face for the smaller tip (or the action won't open due to the primer material wedging into the (relatively) large space between the new/small tip and the old FP hole)



.

[Bwana John]

Thank you for the replys and info.

In order to atone for my days of "sporterizing" (bubbaizing) a couple of rifles in my youth, I thought I would return a couple of Martini Cadets back to original, as issued condition.

So I don't need to worry about the firing pin and hole, I an even considering drilling the sleeved bolt face back to original diameter to use the standard striker.

I have figured out .310 Cadet reloading, (it actually saved me from the reloading "burn out" that I was starting to experience) so ammo is not a problem. (7.62 Nagant R brass, RCBS heeled bullet mold and dies, soft as pure as possible lead alloy, Unique powder, and powder coating solves the icky-stick externally lubed problem) Shoots to as well as my old eyes can (~2.5 moa)

I am a little worried about reblueing and case hardening, I'm pretty sure Ceracoating would be heresy!

310 extractors and forearm wood were the hardest parts to source.

If I had a lathe I would concider reconfiguring a bull barrel back to standard profile, and keep one in 218 bee, and add a BSA rear #7 peep sight and Parker-Hale globe front sight, but 310 take off barrels were almost the easiest parts to source.

I didn't even know what a Martini Cadet was until one screamed at me to buy it as I walked by at a gunshow, and since then they seem to reproduce all by themselves in the gun safe.

[pietro]

I didn't even know what a Martini Cadet was until one screamed at me to buy it as I walked by at a gunshow, and since then they seem to reproduce all by themselves in the gun safe.




A clear case of Martinitis…. ;)

.

[Old School Big Bore]

Wow, I can't even find ONE...
Ed <><

[Bwana John]

A clear case of Martinitis…. ;)

.

Are binge watching "Zulu", and Zulu Dawn", and wanting to bellow "At 100 yards, volley fire..." at the range also symptoms?

The best news however is the Memsahib's vegetable garden is safe from any roo's that make it through the dingo fence.

[barrabruce]

BwananJohn
What’s your load?

[Bwana John]

BwananJohn
What’s your load?

PPU 7.62 Nagant R brass, trimmed to 1.120"
SR primer
4.5 gr Unique powder
RCBS heeled125 gr bullet mold using the purest lead available, powdercoated with Smoke 4350's shake and bake powder and method, bullets baked standing up (only one coat! even if sporadic coverage as long as bearing surfaces are covered)
RCBS dies .310 cadet , but not using normal procedures.

Brass is full length resized for first loading.

After that depriming with 30-06 die so only operation performed is depriming.
Slightly belling the case just enough to accept bullet base.
Seating the bullet to the correct depth in the press, no other case to die contact.
Running the loaded round into the resizing die so that only the top ~1/8" of the case contacts the die to get rid of any of the belling, and to crimp the bullet in place.

One of the Cadets can use trimmed, resized 32-20 brass (it is not rechambered to 32-20) using the same method.

I had a lot of problems using Bertram .310 cadet brass, it was just too thick at the mouth, I did ream some using a .308 neck turning pilot after full length resizing that worked ok, but the brass was still really short.

[Nobade]

That's a really great idea to use Nagant brass! Learned something new today. Thanks.

[Bwana John]

That's a really great idea to use Nagant brass! Learned something new today. Thanks.

https://www.powdervalleyinc.com/product/prvi-7-62-nagant-100/

[barrabruce]

I use a hacksaw blade laying flat on the case and spun in a drill and thinned the bases of the 32-20 cases that way.
Nagant brass non existent.
I finger lube the outside after I finger seat the bullets in as fired cases.
I made the heel bigger to fit.
2 gns bulleye RCBS mould ww srp, tuft Dacron, 50/50 be/vas lube alloy I think was too hard.
I get out liners.
I thought it was the different cavities but apparently not.
Probably me old eyes and the post sight.
Work in progress.
271969
Looks bad to you over lap them and then put a dollar coin on them.
271970 271971
Still working on it.
There is a couple of high foulers for starters.
1 only each 10 shot groups.

[barrabruce]

Oops to answer your question.
Most people talk down the 310 cadet pretty hard cos’ they don’t take the time to fit a bullet and cases to their own rifle and they don’t shoot.

The barrels I have met seemed like they were cut with a chaser/clapper box and the last bit of thread is a pretty neat fit in the last 1/4 turn of the action.


That’s all I got sorry.

[GregLaROCHE]

Before putting torque on the barrel and action, I would position the gun in a way that penetrating oil can find its way into the threads. Add a little each day or so and maybe change the position of the gun so it has the best chance of getting into all areas of the threads. It’s very important to use a high quality penetrating oil designed only to be used as penetrating oil. NOT WD40 or Ballistol etc. A little patience and penetrating oil makes a big difference.

[beshears]

It is a disease. Have 3 218 Bees, a 25-20 SS, a 17 Ackley Bee and three originals.

[BigEyeBob]

It is a disease. Have 3 218 Bees, a 25-20 SS, a 17 Ackley Bee and three originals.

They grow on you like a fungus .Ive got eight in different calibers .

[rjmelehan]

before putting torque on the barrel and action, i would position the gun in a way that penetrating oil can find its way into the threads. Add a little each day or so and maybe change the position of the gun so it has the best chance of getting into all areas of the threads. It’s very important to use a high quality penetrating oil designed only to be used as penetrating oil. Not wd40 or ballistol etc. A little patience and penetrating oil makes a big difference.

kroil

[rjmelehan]

It is a disease. Have 3 218 Bees, a 25-20 SS, a 17 Ackley Bee and three originals.

I've been keeping the light off in my safe, I always knock before I enter but somehow they will just not reproduce on their own.

[John Taylor]

I made mine a 32 S&W with an octagon barrel. No recoil and not very loud. Have not had a chance to take it to the range yet to see what it will do.

[Drm50]

My gunsmith put up many Martinis in the 60s. 357, 256, and 22 Jet were most popular. I had one he built in 22 Ackley Jet. All these were on Cadet actions. He was using bolt action stocks cut up to stock them, Douglas barrels and forming monkey tail into loupe lever. Bushed FP and drilled back of action for cleaning rod.