1894 lever gun disassembly for cleaning

[bpimwheel]

I have two 1894 lever action rifles. One in (1951) 30-30 the other in (1950) 32 Win Spl.
My question is how hard are they to disassemble for cleaning. Ive been able to clean the barrel, and breach and the lever parts that show when opened but I would like do a more thorough cleaning of them.
Thanks for the help.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Did you read the Stickied thread above?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?12471-field-stripping-a-marlin-1894s
It's real easy to do.

[Bazoo]

Winchester 94 isn't too hard, if your handy. Hardest part in my opinion is getting the hammer and screw back in. I take my post 64 model down without issue, I know there were a few changes from screws to pins but it should be pretty straight foreward

Remove Buttstock
Remove hammer pivot screw, you have to hold tension off it with your off hand thrumb.
Remove lower tang and hammer
Removed plug screw on left of receiver and push out lever link pin
Remove bottom plate pivot screw
Bottom plate, locking lug, lever all drop out
Remove carrier screw and carrier
Finally remove bolt

If I recall correctly, the carrier will swing far enough out of the way to remove the bolt but if you have it that far, why not drop the carrier.

You can remove the cartridge guides if desired but, I don't.

I can remove the loading gate on mine through the loading port, otherwise it'll probably be last.

[junkbug]

My money says he is asking about a Winchester. A Marlin 1894 does not come in 30-30 and .32 Special. That would be a Model 1893, a Model 36 or a Model 336.

I clean as much as I can with a tooth brush and patches. Disassemble as little as possible. If I start to shoot black powder of of the re-bored .38-55, I may have to rethink that.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

My money says he is asking about a Winchester. A Marlin 1894 does not come in 30-30 and .32 Special. That would be a Model 1893, a Model 36 or a Model 336.

I clean as much as I can with a tooth brush and patches. Disassemble as little as possible. If I start to shoot black powder of of the re-bored .38-55, I may have to rethink that.

oops, my bad :oops:

[Der Gebirgsjager]

There's a very good presentation in "The Gun Digest Book Of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly, Part IV: Centerfire Rifles" by J.B. Wood. it is several pages of clear step-by-step photos and written instructions.

[bpimwheel]

Thanks much for the info. My bad, I should have defined the brand. Yes I was asking about Winchester 1894 rifles. I do have a 1954 Marlin 336 in 35 Rem and have disassembled it for cleaning but the linkage appears quite different than a Win 94.

[robg]

only stripped a 94ae they are ok to strip just make sure you dont drop small bits on the floor .there are some good videos out there if you google it

[Hick]

All the right answers above-- BUT you might want to NOT remove the loading gate. Because of the spring tension the loading gate screw is very difficult to get back in without cross-treading or stripping. You don't really need to remove the loading gate anyway to do a good clean and lube job.

[-D-]

Get the red book.

[Bazoo]

That loading gate is a bit tricky. I've removed at least 2 maybe 3. I softened the sharp edges and polished the backside of mine. Makes loading much easier.

[Targa]

It’s not bad, like already mentioned I wouldn’t mess with the loading gate.

[ulav8r]

Once read that the 94 could be dissasembled by the "moron method", just remove all the screws and shake. Putting it back together is only slightly more difficult.

[Froogal]

For my Rossi's, I remove the buttstock and then grab a can of brake cleaner. Spray the cleaner into the action until it runs out clear. Let everything dry out, and then oil everything. Ballistol or Rem oil.

[txbirdman]

Using leaded chain saw gas in a 2 liter plastic bottle withe the top cut out I’ve cleaned numerous .22 autos; my ‘94 Win; and a Auto 5 by removing the the stocks and letting the action set in it a day or two. After taking them out and letting them throughly dry not only are they cleaned but also have a thin coat of oil.

[pietro]

Using leaded chain saw gas in a 2 liter plastic bottle withe the top cut out I’ve cleaned numerous .22 autos; my ‘94 Win; and a Auto 5 by removing the the stocks and letting the action set in it a day or two. After taking them out and letting them throughly dry not only are they cleaned but also have a thin coat of oil.



Ditto - except I remove the buttstock wood and let the slightly-opened action take a 2-day swim in a bucket of kerosene (@ some gas stations) - which leaves an oily sheen after the carrier evaporates.


IME, a Winchester 94 doesn't need be taken fully apart for a cleaning:

Remove the buttstock and the magazine tube cap - the withdraw the magazine spring & follower for cleaning them + the inside of the magazine tube.

Remove the finger lever stop pin screw (the largest screw head) from the LH receiver sidewall, open the bolt about 1/2" to line up the link pin in the bolt with the resultant hole, and drift out the link/lever pin through the tiny hole in the RH receiver sidewall.

Remove the lower link pivot pin at the forward end of the receiver/link, and drop the link (and the bolt locking block) down enough to clear the bolt - which can then be withdrawn to the rear for cleaning.

Re-assemble in reverse order, ensuring that the pin the connects the bolt to the finger lever is fully seated so it doesn't impede bolt travel by catching on an internal receiver surface.


.

[txbirdman]

Oh yeah, I remove the buttstock for sure.

[elmacgyver0]

Not to be demeaning, but I have found if people need to ask this question they should not attempt this.
People have varying levels of skill.
What I find easy you may find difficult.
Of course what you find easy I may find impossible.

[Froogal]

Not to be demeaning, but I have found if people need to ask this question they should not attempt this.
People have varying levels of skill.
What I find easy you may find difficult.
Of course what you find easy I may find impossible.

I agree. I have done much mechanic work. Rebuilt engines, etc., and I even have some machinist experience. I am still reluctant to fully disassemble any firearm just for cleaning. If something breaks, then I'll dig into it.

[Texas by God]

B12 Chemtool carburetor cleaner spray works wonders. Remove the stocks first and use gloves and eye protection, take it outdoors and spray the crap( litrrally) out of it. Once dry, put a little gun oil in it and on it and reinstall the wood. I don't detail disassemble guns unless I'm repairing or tuning them.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[bpimwheel]

Thanks a lot everyone, great advise. Think I'll forgo the disassembly and try the break cleaner spray route. Seems the safest to me at least with my experience level.