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DaveM
11-01-2020, 07:35 PM
One gap in my preps that has come to light in the aftermath of this year's panic caused by COVID19 and civil unrest is my stash of small pistol primers. I have around 2500 - 3000. If you've been paying attention, small pistol primers are currently unobtanium at anything resembling a reasonable price.

In contrast, I have at least 5000 large pistol primers, which I primarily use for .38-40, .44-40, and also Magtech brass shotshells.

One cartridge I load for is .38 Special. I have thousands of .38 Special empties, so the thought occurred to me that I could convert 50 - 100 to take large pistol primers.

When primers become more easily available I am planning on stocking up on them but in the interim I want to increase my options.

In doing a bit of online research, I learned that there used to be .38 brass produced with large primers. So, why not convert some .38s to large primer pockets?

So what is the best cutting tool to use to enlarge the primer pockets? I'm leaning in the direction of a .210" center cutting end mill, chucked in a drill chuck in the tailstock of my 7x14 mini lathe. The deprimed cases would be held in my lathe's chuck.

The other option for a cutting tool would be a Hornady #041211 Large Primer Pocket uniformer.

I am aware that changing from small to large pistol primers is likely to increase pressure, so for safety I'd be using mild .38 Special loads and doing any initial testing in revolvers chambered for .357 Magnum.

Has anyone tried this?

@Outpost75, I'm especially interested in your thoughts.

Bazoo
11-01-2020, 08:23 PM
I am interested too, as I've had the idea for years. Mostly as an experiment than a need. I have a couple large primer 38 special cases. I could section one for reference as to thickness of web and such for comparison.

elmacgyver0
11-01-2020, 08:28 PM
Should work fine.

DaveM
11-01-2020, 08:54 PM
I am interested too, as I've had the idea for years. Mostly as an experiment than a need. I have a couple large primer 38 special cases. I could section one for reference as to thickness of web and such for comparison.

Thanks for the offer but I don't think it's necessary.

Outpost75
11-01-2020, 11:00 PM
Tried to post on the other forum where you posted this question, but for some reason or other I have been banned over there with no explanation, and my posts deleted. Strange...

Anyway, there are large primer sized primer pocket "uniformers" which are designed to be run under power, but all I am aware of are dimensioned for large rifle primers, which have a greater cup height than pistol primers.

270570

To enlarge a "small" sized primer pocket, I would select a drill gage which is a wee bit smaller than the diameter of the large primer pocket, and use this to heavy chamfer the small primer pocket in the case, to provide an entry for the appropriate sized end-mill or large primer pocket uniformer to be run under power. Set a depth stop so that you do not exceed the max. depth for the large pistol primer. Rigging a collect to securely hold .38/.357 cases for machining is a useful exercise, but once you figure this out the results should be rewarding.

Please update us on how you accomplish this and how it works out!

la5676
11-01-2020, 11:42 PM
Ummmmm, what data are you gonna use for a large primer now used in place of the lighter small pistol primer. Are you gonna just back off 10% and hope it OK.

Why not just use small rifle primers. One of the bigger reloaders in our club told me recently he had inquired from "someone higher up" (who that is I don't know) but it's a straight across exchange. Then again, I've heard guys say they have had about half or more ftf with SR used in place if SP because of the harder cup material used.

I'll sit back now and learn something.

dannyd
11-01-2020, 11:51 PM
Back in the 1930's both 38 Special and 357 Magnum used large primers.

Outpost75
11-01-2020, 11:59 PM
A 10% charge reduction until you can measure velocity is good practIce. In comparing large vs. Small primer in .45 ACP I have found small pistol magnum equivalent to large pistol standard, or 10% charge reduction for large vs. Small primer.

Bazoo
11-02-2020, 12:03 AM
From my research of SPP use in 45 acp, I don't think the difference between large and small primers would be enough to warrant any reduction in powder.

Sorry, didnt mean to contradict you outpost, we posted at the same time.

gpidaho
11-02-2020, 12:08 AM
I'm far from a ballistics expert but if you are successful in making the primer pocket conversion, I wouldn't worry TOO much about the pressure difference small primer to large. As stated in the OP you'll be testing the loads in a 357. I've run a few pretty hot 38s from my Ruger GP100. You can always start with a low charge or seat the bullet out farther to lower pressure and then work up. Gp

SweetMk
11-02-2020, 12:18 AM
I sure am glad I found that RCBS primer pocket swaging tool that goes in my reloading press,,

IT was lie $33 at a local LGS,, and I could not find it at all on line,,
If I gotta change primer size,, I am gonna need all the pocket resizing help I can get! LOL!!

:shock:

EDG
11-02-2020, 02:26 AM
The Remington # 6 1/2 has a softer cup for use in the smaller lower pressure rifle rounds so they might work more easily in the 38 Special.

I did a lot of lathe production work many years ago including boring small diameter holes.
I would try boring it with a 2 flute center cutting end mill used as a boring bar. Once the boring bar is cutting to the right diameter never change the setting of the cross slide unless to adjust the size of the hole.

nicholst55
11-02-2020, 05:16 AM
Tried to post on the other forum where you posted this question, but for some reason or other I have been banned over there with no explanation, and my posts deleted. Strange...

Anyway, there are large primer sized primer pocket "uniformers" which are designed to be run under power, but all I am aware of are dimensioned for large rifle primers, which have a greater cup height than pistol primers.

270570

To enlarge a "small" sized primer pocket, I would select a drill gage which is a wee bit smaller than the diameter of the large primer pocket, and use this to heavy chamfer the small primer pocket in the case, to provide an entry for the appropriate sized end-mill or large primer pocket uniformer to be run under power. Set a depth stop so that you do not exceed the max. depth for the large pistol primer. Rigging a collect to securely hold .38/.357 cases for machining is a useful exercise, but once you figure this out the results should be rewarding.

Please update us on how you accomplish this and how it works out!

Second to last item:

https://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/case-preparation/primer-pocket-tools/uniformers/carbide-primer-pocket-uniformers-prod34720.aspx

cwlongshot
11-02-2020, 07:54 AM
Good stuff!

CW

dverna
11-02-2020, 09:42 AM
Seems like a reasonable approach. With a little lathe the time to convert 100 cases will not be too bad either. EDG's idea for boring the hole makes sense.

Looking forward to seeing your results.

Froogal
11-02-2020, 10:00 AM
In case no one has noticed, ALL primers are unobtanium right now, as well as brass.

cwlongshot
11-02-2020, 10:49 AM
In case no one has noticed, ALL primers are unobtanium right now, as well as brass.
Not when your prepared... I dont have any shortages. ;)

CW

DaveM
11-02-2020, 11:06 AM
Thanks guys. I did wind up ordered a 4 flute center cutting .210" end mill, which hopefully should arrive by next weekend.

kootne
11-02-2020, 11:33 AM
From my experience, you will probably have a greater percentage of good cases if you cut slightly undersize and swage to finish dimension. A .210 endmill is not going to cut undersize, maybe it will cut .210 but probably is going to cut over unless everything is "right" and your machine is rigid and tight.
Second best way would be to use a smaller diameter cutter and bore rather than try to dead center an on-size endmill and drill with it. Use a dial indicator on your cross-slide to monitor actual position during your process.
If one way doesn't work and you can't resolve it, try something else. (called paying your dues)
Hope I didn't sound like too much of a Debbie Downer, It can be done and I wish you all the best.

DaveM
11-02-2020, 01:44 PM
From my experience, you will probably have a greater percentage of good cases if you cut slightly undersize and swage to finish dimension. A .210 endmill is not going to cut undersize, maybe it will cut .210 but probably is going to cut over unless everything is "right" and your machine is rigid and tight.
Second best way would be to use a smaller diameter cutter and bore rather than try to dead center an on-size endmill and drill with it. Use a dial indicator on your cross-slide to monitor actual position during your process.
If one way doesn't work and you can't resolve it, try something else. (called paying your dues)
Hope I didn't sound like too much of a Debbie Downer, It can be done and I wish you all the best.

Thanks. I expect that there will be a learning curve. I'm not expecting it to necessarily work right off the bat. I have enough .38 empties that I can afford to lose a few.

NoZombies
11-02-2020, 01:47 PM
So, I did this a while back for reasons that I don't exactly remember at the moment... but while I don't recall the reasons, the process I came up with worked well enough that I made about 300 LPP .38 special cases. I later turned them all into .380 rook cases, but that's probably another story.

I got a 3/8 collet for the lathe that opened just enough to accept a sized case. I used a collet stop so that the brass would slide in and lock down consistently at the same depth +/- .001". I used a 5.3mm Carbide end mill to machine the PP to depth of .120 using a micrometer stop. Then they went into the primer pocket swager, followed by deburring the flash-hole. Primers seated fine, I reduced loads slightly, and other than slightly wider SD's all was well with the world.

Getting everything set up took some work, but once it was all done, the conversion was easy, and it didn't take too long to do 100 pieces of brass.

DaveM
11-02-2020, 03:26 PM
Cool, thanks for that info!

Outpost75
11-02-2020, 04:21 PM
From my research of SPP use in 45 acp, I don't think the difference between large and small primers would be enough to warrant any reduction in powder.

Sorry, didnt mean to contradict you outpost, we posted at the same time.

I think that within the normal range of pressure-tested load data you are generally correct, but if the load is near max. I would still recommend the 10% reduction in an abundance of caution until the velocity can be validated and the charge adjusted.

NoZombies
11-02-2020, 07:29 PM
Cool, thanks for that info!

In case it wasn't clear, I did of course trim all of the brass to uniform length before chucking them in the collet...

rbuck351
11-02-2020, 09:52 PM
Sinclair makes carbide primer pocket reamers in the three different sizes that are built so they will only cut to proper depth. However you would probably have to pre drill to just under .210 and then use the Sinclair tool. I would try to open some to lpp but I have more spp than I'm likely to ever use.

DaveM
11-04-2020, 02:03 PM
So my end mill order arrived today, but they sent me the wrong one. (bangs head) Going to see about an exchange but this will delay the project.

Old School Big Bore
11-04-2020, 02:42 PM
I am rapidly running out of SP and have several folks who need 9mm and 38 spl. I was thinking of doing this to some 9X19 cases but have no lathe. I could prbly rig some sort of collet on the drill press spindle or table... If one of y'all who have a plentiful supply would part with any, I have brass, powder, boolits and some odd (for me) ammo, and LR, SR and LP to trade.
Ed <><

tankgunner59
11-11-2020, 11:09 PM
I bought some Federal ammo from a LGS for my 6.5 Creedmoor without checking. When I set up to reload them I found they have SRP's. I talked about doing this on those cases, this was back in April or May. Several folks said to just get some small rifle primers, but they were already gone every place I checked. I am interested if there is anyone out there with some SRP's he would let go of, who is not too far from Quincy, IL, I'd be interested in paying for them if I didn't get gouged.
I don't have the funds to get a new set up with a lathe. I guess I could try on my drill press.

454PB
11-12-2020, 12:45 AM
I modified 50 .454 Casull cases to accept LP primers a while back. I do have a lathe, and I used an extensive set of numbered drill bits until I found the right size (which I don't recall offhand). I ground the bit as flat as possible, drilled, then used a Lyman primer pocket uniformer to insure a flat base for the primer and anvil. It worked fine, but takes a lot of time.

FISH4BUGS
11-19-2020, 02:37 PM
Not when your prepared... I dont have any shortages. ;)
CW
I learned my lesson the last time around.
I FINALLY listened to the little voice in my head that said "...stock up".
I probably have enough components to last the rest of my lifetime. :)
BTW I am 72......

country gent
11-19-2020, 06:42 PM
Dave M I would use a drill the dia and grind a pilot on the end to fit the flash hole 1/4"-5/16" long and sharpen the edges like a counterbore. The pilot helps keep it from jumping chattering when starting the cut. over the drill a short piece of tubing to use as a stop. Set drill in chuck to where tube only allow depth of cut. run drill in to where the tube touches and your done

rbuck351
11-20-2020, 12:20 PM
I have found flash holes to be off center quite a bit on some brass. I would use a drill slightly larger than .210 and lightly cut a few thou into the small pp just enough to form a taper for a Sinclair lp primer pocket uniformer to start centered. Then feed in until it stops. Don't lock the tail stock which will allow a bit of movement to follow the taper to center. I might try making a few if swmbo will give me a bit of free time.

DaveM
11-21-2020, 05:23 PM
I made some progress on this project today. The basic tool is a .210" diameter chucking reamer with a stop collar set to 0.129" reaming depth. The stop collar was made from 1/2" 6061 aluminum rod. It's held in place with an M4 screw I had in one of my miscellaneous parts bins.

271867

To use it, I chucked deprimed a .38 Special case in the lathe and held the reamer in a drill chuck in the lathe's tailstock.

I found that because of the small clearances, brass chips built up between the head of the case and the collar. I had to withdraw in several times per case to clear the chips with a brush and pick. It was slow going.

271868

But eventually, I converted five cases to accept large pistol primers. To test, I seated CCI LPPs. They seated easily, maybe a little too easily. It might be better to use a .209" diameter reamer because .210" is the maximum for large primers.

271870

I plan to do another 5 cases tomorrow and then load them will mild charges so I can test them on my next trip to the range.

country gent
11-21-2020, 05:38 PM
If you have a primer pocket swaging tool you might try .208 and then swaging up to final size. The swaging would produce a very accurate size and a slightly harder smoother surface.

DaveM
11-22-2020, 02:48 PM
I do not have a primer pocket swager but that's a good suggestion.

I modified another 5 cases today in my lathe. I loaded those and the 5 I modified yesterday with 4.4 grains of Unique, a CCI LPP, and a .358 160 grain LSWC from Matt's Bullets. I also loaded another 50 in unmodified brass using Sellier & Bellot SPPs.

The round on the left is an unmodifed case. The 2 on the right are modified.

271921

I should get to try them next weekend.

country gent
11-22-2020, 04:05 PM
I modified 200 38 spl cases to large primer some years ago for wax bullet loads. but I also opened the flash holes up to .105 dia. Reason being I didnt want them getting loaded with full power loads.
I ground the drill pilot .375 long and .105 dia on a drill the dia I needed. flat sharpened the large dia. this gave me flutes all the way back not just on the face like a uniformer. The tube over allowed chips room to get out. If I remember I could do 5 or so slide tube off and clear chips. I did mine in a hardringe lathe. The big pain was cranking the tail stock spindle in and out to change cases.

SweetMk
11-22-2020, 05:20 PM
.
I probably have enough components to last the rest of my lifetime. :)
BTW I am 72......

How long is that, 2 1/2 months?? :roll:

Just kidding, I am 1 year behind you,,
and I can not tell you why I bought 12,000 to 15,000 primers when they were $20/thou,,
:mrgreen:

Luckily, my "fun round" is 44MAG, so I have the large pockets already,,

Would it be safer to just buy a 44MAG for high volume plinking?
One just sold in the Swappin & Sellin section for $400,,

I guess I feel my safety is worth $400,,, :confused:

DaveM
11-29-2020, 01:21 PM
I was able to shoot the .38s with LPP converted brass yesterday, along with other .38s that were the same except for using SPPs. They worked fine and were indistinguishable from the ammo loaded with SPPs. So, as far as I'm concerned, this proof of concept was a success.

I did manage to source a couple thousand more SPPs which will arrive in a few days so I do not plan to convert any more .38 brass to take LPPs, but it's nice to know that if I need to, I can, and they will work fine.

beagle
12-25-2020, 11:18 PM
Asked this question months ago and got the reply that everyone did that so I've been loading SR in lieu of SP for months now in .38 and .357 cases with normal results. These are average run of the mill shooting loads and are no way close to max. If I was running hot loads, I'd maybe be hesitant to do it but so far, so good./beagle


Ummmmm, what data are you gonna use for a large primer now used in place of the lighter small pistol primer. Are you gonna just back off 10% and hope it OK.

Why not just use small rifle primers. One of the bigger reloaders in our club told me recently he had inquired from "someone higher up" (who that is I don't know) but it's a straight across exchange. Then again, I've heard guys say they have had about half or more ftf with SR used in place if SP because of the harder cup material used.

I'll sit back now and learn something.

Ford SD
12-26-2020, 12:32 AM
Asked this question months ago and got the reply that everyone did that so I've been loading SR in lieu of SP for months now in .38 and .357 cases with normal results. These are average run of the mill shooting loads and are no way close to max. If I was running hot loads, I'd maybe be hesitant to do it but so far, so good./beagle

CCI 400 550 primer spm sr
According to Speer/CCI Technical Services - Both the CCI 550 Small Pistol Magnum and CCI 400 Small Rifle primers are identical in size. Both primers use the same cup metal and share the same cup thickness. Both primers use the same primer compound formula and same amount of primer compound. They can be used interchangeably.

273970

PRIMER CHART & REFERENCE GUIDE

Small Handgun Standard .017" cup thickness

CCI 500
Federal 100 - Has a soft cup - good to use if hammer strike is light.
Federal 100M - Match version of above
Magtech PR-SP
Magtech PR-SPC - Lead-free "Clean Range" primer for indoor ranges etc.
Remington 1 ½
RWS 4031
Winchester WSP
Wolf/Tula Small Pistol SP #KVB-9 - brass cup - "For Standard Pistol loads"
Wolf/Tula Small Pistol #KVB-9SP - "For 9×19 NATO cartridges"
Wolf/Tula Small Pistol #KVB-9S - "For Sporting Pistol loads"

Small Handgun Magnum .017" cup thickness

CCI 550 See Note 1 at the bottom of page
Federal 200
Federal 200M - Match version of above
Magtech PR-SPM
Remington 5 ½
RWS 4047
Winchester WSPM
Wolf/Tula Small Pistol Magnum SPM #KVB-9M - brass cup - "For Magnum Pistol loads"

Large Handgun Standard .020" cup thickness

CCI 300
Federal 150 - Has a thinner cup
Magtech PR-LP
Remington 2 ½
RWS 5337
Winchester WLP
Wolf/Tula Large Pistol LP #KVB-45 - brass cup - "For Standard Pistol loads"

Large Handgun Magnum .020" cup thickness

CCI 350
Federal 155
Wolf/Tula Large Pistol Magnum LPM #KVB-45M - brass cup - For Magnum Pistol loads

Small Rifle Standard

CCI 400 -thin .020" cup, not recommended for AR15 use by CCI/Speer. Good for .22 Hornet, .30 Carbine. See Note 1 at the bottom of the page
CCI BR4 - match primer with a thicker .025" cup.
Federal 205 - Mil-Spec cup thickness according to Federal - okay for 5.56mm. .0225" cup thickness.
Federal 205M - same as the 205 but the match version.
Magtech PR-SR - .025" cup thickness (not much feedback yet on this new primer as to AR15 suitability but with the same cup thickness as the Rem 7 1/2 it looks good so far)
Remington 6 ½ - thin .020" cup, intended for older, lower pressure rounds Remington says do not use for the .223 Rem or other similar pressure rounds. Good for .22 Hornet, .30 Carbine.
Remington 7 ½ BR - A match or "bench rest" primer. Lyman & Nosler classify this primer as a Standard. Remington says the compound is the same as the 6 1/2 but with a thicker .025" cup.
RWS 4033
Winchester WSR - some piercing issues noted when changed from silver to brass cup. Cup thickness is a bit thinner at .021". Most say they are good to go for the AR15 despite that, probably because of the hardness of the cup. Some feel they are less resistant to higher pressures.
Wolf/Tula Small Rifle SR #KVB-223 - soft, sensitive copper cup, not recommended for AR15/military rifle use or high pressure rounds.

Small Rifle Magnum

CCI 450 - same thicker .025" cup as the BR4 and #41.
CCI #41 - commercial version of the fully-qualified DOD primer for use in U.S. military ammo. With this primer there is more 'distance' between the tip of the anvil and the bottom of the cup than with other CCI SR primers. .025" thick cup. Same primer mix as CCI 450.
Remington 7 ½ BR - A match or "bench rest" primer. Hornady, Handloads.com, and Chuck Hawks classify this primer as a Magnum, differing from other sources that classify it as a Standard. .025" cup thickness.
Wolf/Tula Small Rifle Magnum SRM - hard, less sensitive brass cup intended for AR15/military rifle and high pressure rounds - #KVВ-5,56M.
Wolf/Tula Small Rifle 223 SR223 - #KVB-223M "This is the newest primer available in the Wolf line. It is ever so slightly hotter than the small rifle magnum primer and it comes with a brass colored thick cup. This primer can be used in place of the SRM primer or used when a different powder is used that is hard to ignite."

Large Rifle Standard

CCI 200 - mild in brisance. Hard enough for use in semi-automatics.
CCI BR2 - same as the 200 but the match version. Hard enough for use in semi-automatics.
Federal 210 - medium brisance between CCI/Remington & Winchester. Do not use in semi-automatics.
Federal 210M - match version of the above primer. Do not use in semi-automatics.
Magtech PR-LR
Remington 9 ½ - mild in brisance.
RWS 5341
Winchester WLR - the hottest standard primer. Hard enough for use in semi-automatics.
Wolf/Tula Large Rifle LR #KVB-7 - all brass - "For Standard Rifle loads".
Wolf/Tula Large Rifle #KVB-7,62 - "For 7,62 NATO cartridges"

Wolf/Tula primers are used by noted match shooter David Tubbs who says: "Be sure they are seated into the case - if not they can be hard to ignite. Russian primers use a different sinoxide compound (closer to the European type), which, in my testing, consistently delivers better extreme spreads over Federal..." Hard enough for use in semi-automatics.

Large Rifle Magnum

CCI 250
CCI #34 - commercial version of the fully-qualified DOD primer for use in U.S. military ammo.
Federal 215 - original magnum primer
Remington 9 ½ M - mildest magnum primer.
RWS 5333
Winchester WLRM
Wolf/Tula Large Rifle Magnum LRM #KVB-7M - all brass - "For Magnum Rifle loads".

50 BMG

CCI #35 - commercial version of the fully-qualified DOD primer for use in U.S. military ammo.
Winchester 8312
Wolf/Tula 50 Cal Machine Gun #KVB-50 - For 50 Browning Machine Gun

Primers recommended for use in .223 Rem/5.56 semiautomatic rifle loads:

CCI #41, 450, BR4 (#41 & 450 good with ball powder)
Federal 205, 205M
Remington 7 1/2 BR (good with ball powder)
Winchester WSR (good with ball powder)
Wolf SRM (good with ball powder)
Wolf SR223 (hotter than SRM - great with ball powder)

Primers recommended for use in .308 Win/7.62x51/7.62x39 semiautomatic rifle loads:

CCI #34, 200, BR2, CCI 250
Winchester WLR, WLRM (good with ball powder)
Wolf LR

WOLF/TULA PRIMER APPLICATION CHART FOR ALL PRIMERS - http://www.mpzflame.ru/production/primers/
Wolf and Tula are two of the common U.S. marketing names of primers made by Murom (OJSC «Murom Apparatus Producing plant» "For many years, our constant partners are «The Tula Cartridge Works», «Barnaul Cartridge Plant» and others.").

################################################## ################################

NOTE 1: According to Speer/CCI Technical Services - Both the CCI 550 Small Pistol Magnum and CCI 400 Small Rifle primers are identical in size. Both primers use the same cup metal and share the same cup thickness. Both primers use the same primer compound formula and same amount of primer compound. They can be used interchangeably

Ford SD
12-28-2020, 10:52 PM
I am in canada... Watching prices on gunbroker with interest



ht tps://www.gunbroker.com/item/887961286

5000 wsp primers selling in a few min for $1275 = $250/1000 ...... somebody wants primers real bad

That's more than 25 cents a primer .... and shipping is on top of that.


I am shaking my head ...... we pay more for everything here .....
pre covid ... a year ago primers were +- $50/1000 here plus taxes

wolfwing
01-06-2021, 09:16 PM
Not when your prepared... I dont have any shortages. ;)

CW

I'm with ya. I have enough primers to last the next 25 years of shooting. Powder to last 40 yrs, bullets to last 8 yrs. Why are so many gun folks unprepared?? Some dolt just bought 3000 SP primers from me for $500. If he is silly enough to offer, I'll gladly accept. I'm down to 20,000 SP primers now.

Soundguy
01-06-2021, 09:43 PM
I am in canada... Watching prices on gunbroker with interest



ht tps://www.gunbroker.com/item/887961286

5000 wsp primers selling in a few min for $1275 = $250/1000 ...... somebody wants primers real bad

That's more than 25 cents a primer .... and shipping is on top of that.


I am shaking my head ...... we pay more for everything here .....
pre covid ... a year ago primers were +- $50/1000 here plus taxes

I was seeing 100$ a thousand a few weeks ago.. And now all gone. Crazy.

airone46
01-10-2021, 11:20 AM
Scusa ma parlo pochissimo l'inglese! Potreste ordinarli in Italia! Sarebbe molto pił semplice!
https://www.google.it/search?hl=it&sxsrf=ALeKk00HZsG_MqfyRDkrXqzAZ-Z_Tddb6w%3A1610291227962&source=hp&ei=Gxj7X-upN7qSjLsPpqO98Ag&q=inneschi+fiocchi&oq=inneschi&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQARgAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAA yAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADoECCMQJzoICC4QsQMQgwE6C wgAELEDEMcBEKMCOggIABCxAxCDAToOCAAQsQMQgwEQxwEQowI 6BQgAELEDOggIABDHARCvAToKCAAQsQMQgwEQQzoICC4QsQMQk wI6BQguELEDOgQIABBDOgQIABADOgIILlC1C1jiHGDBN2gAcAB 4AIABmgGIAc0HkgEDMS43mAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdpeg&sclient=psy-ab

https://www.armietiromatteoni.com/prodotto/inneschi-fiocchi-scatola-12000-pz/
http://www.bolognesi.net/negozio/it/inneschi/647-fiocchi-primers-small-pistol-conf-1500-pz-7623440447360.html
https://armeriaceccoli.com/bossoli/inneschi

David2011
01-17-2021, 12:36 AM
Dave, if you’re still developing the LPP .38 cases, here are a couple of thoughts. One, Hornady makes small and large pocket reamers that are tool steel. They’re intended for removing crimps. If you mill the pockets to full depth but a hair under diameter, the Hornady tool would ream to the correct diameter with no chance of going too deep because it only cuts on the sides.

The other thought is regarding large primers in small cases. Some of the Bullseye crowd has migrated to .45 ACP SPP brass because the LPP primers were believed to be displacing the bullet before igniting the powder. I would think it would only be worse with the .38 case. In that light, medium charges with harder to light powder might work better than powder puff charges. Pure speculation on my part.

gnappi
01-21-2021, 01:28 AM
In case no one has noticed, ALL primers are unobtanium right now, as well as brass.

I just bought a LOT of once fired .357 sig brass from these folks at $10 per 250... at $40 per thou it's more than fair and there's a LOT of common brass there too. Most @ $12-$13 per 250 rounds that's pretty good.


https://www.oncefiredbrass.com/

Mike_S
10-12-2021, 10:12 AM
Good morning! I am so glad to have found this site, and this thread if only for the primer comparison/description post by Ford SD. I am contemplating reloading, not because I need the completed product, but because I need to have a mechanical/physical understanding of it and practical application so there is less fumbling when it comes time to do so on a grander scale, should that need to happen. My primary interest is 38 spl / 357 Mag for the straight wall cartridge and the simple utility of the firearms and cartridge together.

DaveM - I am interested in knowing where you are in SE PA, I grew up just outside of West Chester.

Butzbach
10-12-2021, 01:43 PM
Not when your prepared... I dont have any shortages. ;)

CW

Except rifle magazines over 10 rds. Psstt, psst Dude, you live in Connecticut. You have a shortage of freedom LOL!