Tips on using Lee Case Trimming system by hand?

[VariableRecall]

I've recently purchased a set of Lee Case Trimmers. I'll put the components up that I've purchased with Midway USA Listings:

Lee Case Trimmer Cutter and Lock Stud
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012835597?pid=476992

Lee Case Length Gauge and Shellholder: 38 Special
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012838679

I understand that with a low pressure cartridge like 38 special, case trimming is a very optional ordeal. However, I'd want to get some experience with the system either way once I start loading for cartridges in the next couple of years that more critically require such adjustments to case length.

I was wondering if anyone else has used this system to trim their cases, and if they have had good experiences with it. Not to mention, any tips on putting it to good use.
As far as I can see, having a fixed metal piece that limits the travel of the case is a pretty foolproof way to guarantee case length.

[Bazoo]

I use the Lyman ezee trim, which works the same way. Keep in mind, you need to inside chamfer and outside deburr the mouth after trimming. I trim 38 special once for consistent length and thus consistent crimp, while many do not trim it at all.

[VariableRecall]

I use the Lyman ezee trim, which works the same way. Keep in mind, you need to inside chamfer and outside deburr the mouth after trimming. I trim 38 special once for consistent length and thus consistent crimp, while many do not trim it at all.

I actually picked up the Lyman Case Prep system, the one that has the removable tool heads for chamfering and deburring, and screw in primer pocket cleaners. Works like a charm for primer pockets but I have not tried the chamfering on it yet.

[Rcmaveric]

I use the Lee system. Lock the base in small hand electric screw driver. A hand drill was to o big and loud. Using it at midnight trimming brass got me in trouble a time or three.. The screw driver is one of those little Black Deckers that plug into the wall to recharge. I clamp a little vice grip on gage holder. Acts like a holder so my wrist and fingers don't cramp holding it. I can run through a bunch of brass quickly.

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[VariableRecall]

I use the Lee system. Lock the base in small hand electric screw driver. A hand drill was to o big and loud. Using it at midnight trimming brass got me in trouble a time or three.. The screw driver is one of those little Black Deckers that plug into the wall to recharge. I clamp a little vice grip on gage holder. Acts like a holder so my wrist and fingers don't cramp holding it. I can run through a bunch of brass quickly.

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I have a medium sized cordless drill available to put to use. It could stand flat on my table if I had wanted to use it. Would that be too fiddly of a process?

[Jniedbalski]

A cordless drill is what I use or even a corded drill and it worked fine.I have even used the lee trimmer by hand. That even worked fine. If you are doing a lot it’s nice to have the drill. I just sit in my recliner put the drill on my leg and start trimming brass while watching tv. It’s as easy as that.

[toallmy]

I use the lee cutter on several different rifle cartridges , it works pretty simply and does the job . As mentioned above a battery powered low speed drill really helps when trimming over a box or so , remember brass cases need to be resized before trimming + a little lube helps .

[tankgunner59]

+1
The Lee trimmer system is all I have ever used and it works great. I have used it by hand and with a small cordless drill/driver for larger batches of brass. It's all you need.

[la5676]

I just went through about 5,000 .223 cases with the lock stud/trimmer. And you can wear a stud down after enough trimming. Ask me how I know? I was chairbound for a spell, and decided to do what was suggested above, but do have you a good wide catch box/pan under your trimmer. Trimmings go everywhere. I also got tired of holding that little cutter, so ordered the cutter with the ball, instead of putting a wrench on it. Whatever works for ya.

[VariableRecall]

I just went through about 5,000 .223 cases with the lock stud/trimmer. And you can wear a stud down after enough trimming. Ask me how I know? I was chairbound for a spell, and decided to do what was suggested above, but do have you a good wide catch box/pan under your trimmer. Trimmings go everywhere. I also got tired of holding that little cutter, so ordered the cutter with the ball, instead of putting a wrench on it. Whatever works for ya.

Would a paper bowl beneath the drill be a reasonable trimmings catcher? or, would that be too small of a surface area to use? I'm not planning on using the couch when I trim, just on the dinner table.
Also, I think the prices for a stud are very fair for the price they are sold for, and seem pretty simple to replace, compared to other options around.

[turtlezx]

use drill clamped in a vise i run some polishing compound on a rag while its spinning to shine them up
70 year old brass looks better than new

[redhawk0]

I use the LEE as well...chucked up in a drill with a 5 gal bucket underneath to catch the trimmings.

turtlezx...just make sure your polish doesn't have ammonia in it....it will eat the copper in the brass alloy. Its better to use #0000 steel wool.

redhawk

[turtlezx]

no doesnt auto polishing coumpound and buffed off same time

[redhawk0]

no doesnt auto polishing coumpound and buffed off same time


Good...just wanted to throw it out there...just in case.

redhawk

[Rcmaveric]

Paper towel or anything will work. Just anything to cut over will work. Any drill or electric screw driver with a bit driver head will work. I even snapped the shell holder into a bit driver to save my hands on small batches.

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[VariableRecall]

Paper towel or anything will work. Just anything to cut over will work. Any drill or electric screw driver with a bit driver head will work. I even snapped the shell holder into a bit driver to save my hands on small batches.

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When would be the best time to trim the cases? Right after cleaning and sorting? or after sizing and before case expansion? Obviously I don't want to put effort into sizing brass that is going to be sorted out of potential use. I currently have sized and expanded all of my brass. I was thinking of testing the trimmer with a small batch once the trimmer/cutter and lock stud thingy gets there. I'd purchased the .38 sizer/shellholder at my local sporting goods store and I had realized that they didn't sell the actual trimmer needed for them to work with.

[Bazoo]

You trim after sizing, but before expanding/belling. This is also the time you measure for length. Brass will be short before sizing.

[Stephen Cohen]

I have both the Lee system and the Lyman case trimmer, I much prefer the Lee system as I find it much faster and as you pointed out fool proof. My method of case prep starts with removing primer with a universal deprimer and running them through a wet cleaner with pins, as I do not run dirty brass through my dies, When brass is dry I put the Lee shell holder in a cordless drill and and trim all brass to correct length and this may well vary according to the firearm being used and the projectiles to be used in that firearm, for example a mates Colt Python had to have shells trimmed so he could use the RCBS 180gr cast we both used. After trimming, and while shell is till in shell holder I use the mouth deburing tool to debure the shell, I also at this time use a drill bolt socket filled with 0000 steel wool to polish the debured case mouth by holding it on the shell mouth and giving the drill a quick run, you will notice a marked difference in how smooth the shell mouth now is, this helps the seating of cast and jacket bullets alike and I believe accuracy as well. My final step is to inside outside debur and uniform the primer pockets with an RCBS deburing tool which I remove from the handle and put in my cordless drill, I consider this necessary to top accuracy and uniformity. There is one step I used to do and that was polish the shells while in the shell holder, I no longer do this with any form of polish as I believe it contributes case stretching in rifle and some hot pistol loads, the shell is supposed to grip the chamber at ignition and cant do this if shell is highly polishes, I have noticed shells to show signs of high pressure in my 375 Whelen when shells are polished. I do however give shells a quick rub with 0000 steel wool if needed. I do not size and prime my brass till all the above is complete. I hope this has been of some help.Regards Stephen

[shortlegs]

the lee has been my go to trimmer for over 40 years. Cordless drill sitting on the table, all i have to do is squeeze the trigger. I put a large piece of cardboard on the table and tape 3" sides on it to catch all the shavings.

[downzero]

I have been using it for as long as I've been loading, 15+ years. I've also never trimmed a 38 special case, ever.

[45workhorse]

Lay the drill motor on its side, hanging a couple of inches over the side of the table. Makes it easy to put case in the cutter and to take them out, trimming drops into what ever you have underneath! YMMV!

[VariableRecall]

I have been using it for as long as I've been loading, 15+ years. I've also never trimmed a 38 special case, ever.

I know that it's not really needed, but I've already noticed that depending on brands their length varies a slight deal. Hard to notice by eye, but according to a crimp die, might be a little larger than that. I would assume that the brass cases would give out far before the brass gets squeezed in enough to extend the length of the cartridge enough to mess up a future crimp.

[la5676]

I used something like one might put popcorn in after you popped one of those microwave bags, maybe a gallon capacity. Throwed a bunch of brass in there, trimmed, tossed trimmed brass in another bowl, then dumped the trimmings each batch to another disposable bowl (wife thought that stuff was prolly gonna be deadly to anyone eating out of it again, so I used disposable) Only on occasion, did I have a flyer, most all trimmings dropped pretty much in the bowl area. The aster your drill goes, the farther the chips will fly. Most of those little 4 and 6 volt drills are slow enough you shouldn't have that issue.

[VariableRecall]

I used something like one might put popcorn in after you popped one of those microwave bags, maybe a gallon capacity. Throwed a bunch of brass in there, trimmed, then dumped the trimmings each batch to another disposable bowl (wife thought that stuff was prolly gonna be deadly to anyone eating out of it again, so I used disposable) Only on occasion, did I have a flyer, most all trimmings dropped pretty much in the bowl area.

I've got a large amount of plastic shopping bags that I can fit around an old Amazon box to catch trimmings. Thanks for the idea!

[downzero]

I know that it's not really needed, but I've already noticed that depending on brands their length varies a slight deal. Hard to notice by eye, but according to a crimp die, might be a little larger than that. I would assume that the brass cases would give out far before the brass gets squeezed in enough to extend the length of the cartridge enough to mess up a future crimp.

The variance is irrelevant. If it makes you feel better, go for it. I have trimmers for all kinds of calibers, but not for any straight wall case. It's completely unnecessary, but it's also harmless.

[mdi]

One thing to watch is to keep the tool, gauge/cutter straight. Keeping the gauge/cutter straight keeps the cases consistent (tipping the case can make cutting a bit shorter). I only use my Lee and Lyman case trimmers on rifle cases and get consistent case length with a hand drill spinning the case (I started reloading 38 Special in 1969 and have never trimmed case yet. Some cases actually shrink in use. Handgun case length isn't as critical as rifle cases and revolver cases can vary greatly with no problems.).

[Bazoo]

I don't understand how y'all can get away with not trimming 38 special. Do you not crimp? I put a healthy crimp on them. Back before I trimmed them, sure I could run a bunch without problems, till that one that was long refused to chamber cause the crimp buckled it.

[rbuck351]

I use the lee trimmers in my mini lathe. The case holder goes in the head stock chuck and the cutter goes in the tail stock chuck. I lube the tip of the cutter depth shaft every 10 or 15 cases to prevent wear. I don't lock the tail stock and just push it to the case. Pull the tail stock back and use inside and outside deburring tool and while the case is still spinning I push a shotgun shell filled with steel wool on the case and all done.
I don't trim pistol rounds as I don't crimp them more than enough to remove the bell.

[mdi]

Crimping in any revolver I own (7) has never had anything to do with chambering. Except bulging from excessive crimp swells the case, making it too large in diameter. I have used some very heavy crimps (Profile, roll and collet), all bullets were crimped in the crimp groove or cannalure but have not had any problems or chambering issues. I know that I have not trimmed any 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 44 Special, 44 magnum or 45 Colt that I can remember from the first 38 Special I pounded out on my Lee Loader in '69. It seems that a few thousandths of an inch variation in length (maybe .010") has little to do with over crimping. In theory, maybe. In theory, possibly. In real life, nope...

[ubetcha]

About the only problem I have encountered with the Lee system is that the case has tendency to rotate out of the shell holder at times when trimming. Very frustrating. I have had the same thing occur with the Lyman system also

[VariableRecall]

I use the lee trimmers in my mini lathe. The case holder goes in the head stock chuck and the cutter goes in the tail stock chuck. I lube the tip of the cutter depth shaft every 10 or 15 cases to prevent wear. I don't lock the tail stock and just push it to the case. Pull the tail stock back and use inside and outside deburring tool and while the case is still spinning I push a shotgun shell filled with steel wool on the case and all done.
I don't trim pistol rounds as I don't crimp them more than enough to remove the bell.

What lubricant do you use on the cutter?

[MUSTANG]

What lubricant do you use on the cutter?

Never used lube with the Lee Cutter. Many tens of thousands of rounds later; I might have used a new cutter because I misplaced one; but never used a lube.

[VariableRecall]

Never used lube with the Lee Cutter. Many tens of thousands of rounds later; I might have used a new cutter because I misplaced one; but never used a lube.

Ok, good to know. I would assume a lubricant might interfere with powder during the reloading process.

[rbuck351]

I too don't lube the cutter on the lee trimmer. I probably haven't trimmed more than 3 or 4 thousand cases, but I'm still on the first cutter and it's still cutting well. I do put just a bit of unique case lube on the end of the pin that controls depth to prevent wear.

[toallmy]

My last big run with a lee trimmer resulted in brass galling on the shaft that grabbed on the necks while spinning , but I trimmed a lot of brass . Something to keep a eye on .

[robg]

i made a little gadget for my lee trimmers .found some bottle caps that just fit over the shell holder ,drilled a hole in them to fit body of cartridge case .holds the case in its holder which is a great improvement with 45-70 brass.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I use a battery drill with the Lee case guage/trimmer setup.
Mostly, I've never seen the need to trim straight wall pistol cases...BUT, I have used this trimmer setup to convert 9mm Luger (9x19) to 9mm Mak (9x18).

[Jniedbalski]

I use a 3M green scotch bright pad the kind for auto body work or now I buy them at Walmart or DG in the pot and pan isle. It’s for cleaning pots and pans in the sink. Works great no polished used. Just the pad and spin the shell .

[ubetcha]

i made a little gadget for my lee trimmers .found some bottle caps that just fit over the shell holder ,drilled a hole in them to fit body of cartridge case .holds the case in its holder which is a great improvement with 45-70 brass.

Now that a good idea! I will have to try that.

[Rcmaveric]

I wanna make a desk mounted drill with a foot pedal switch to use with the case holder.

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[robg]

medicine bottle caps are pretty close to the size you need .took a while to find the right size.

[VariableRecall]

medicine bottle caps are pretty close to the size you need .took a while to find the right size.

Bottle caps for collecting brass trimmings? That's a smart move. A peanut butter lid would work too.

[Wayne Smith]

Lee makes a three jaw chuck that goes in their Zip Spin unit. It also fits my drill motor. I've cut hundreds of 9mm to 9Mak with it, sizing the cases first so the Mak shaft will fit in the case. That combination is so far the fastest, easiest, and most accurate process I've used. A friend just made a 9.3x57 shaft I will use to cut 30-06 cases to 57mm to use in my drill press. We'll see how it works. I'll be picking it up Monday.

[lightman]

I've used the Lee trimmers on and off for years. I use the stud that fits in a drill chuck and use my cordless drill. A couple of things that I do or that I have experienced that might help or deserve to be watched for are;

I use a plastic tub to catch shavings. Like the kind they used to issue you in the hospital. Or look in the kitchen isle in walmart.
I have experienced the cutter getting dull faster than I thought that it should.
I have experienced either or both the pin or the stud developing wear that affected the case length.
I have experienced the case coming out of the shell holder. Some are worse than others. The older ones had aluminum shell holders.
The ball thingy makes holding the cutter a little easier.

The bottom line is that they work ok and it has a cheap cost on the front end to get into trimming. About $12 or so for the first caliber gauge, cutter and lock stud. Then about $6 for additional calibers. I use them if I'm trimming less than a hundred cases. More than 100, I'm buying another cutter for my motorized Giraud trimmer.