Harrell's Powder measure

[Circuit Rider]

I'm looking at Harrell's Precision Premium powder measure. I want to ask opinions of this unit as I would like to be able to throw consistent loads. I have had 2 Lyman DPS units and don't want to invest in electrical units. If the Harrell's will throw consistently accurate loads I don't mind spending the money. I have a Frankfort Arsenal unit and it will vary 3 to 10 grains each time it dispenses a load. Thanks for all advise. James C.

[Kevin Rohrer]

I don't have a Harrell's, but have never heard a bad word about them, especially from the Benchresters.

[country gent]

I have 2 of the Harrels A shutzen model that throws around 30 grns upper weight and a standard thats around 80 grns upper end. Both are very good accurate measures and consistent. Fairly easy to set but the clicks take some getting used to. I used mine a lot. Ive wanted there BP version now for a few years.

Its basically a new version of the culiver converted lyman 55. Very well made with tight tolerances fitted to smooth operation. Its a very smooth measure.

Mine will hold +/-.1 with most powders.

Another very good measure if you ind one is the Belding and Mull. but it is 2 hand operation also.

The big thing with all powder measures is consistent operation of the measure. Same speed turning same "bump" top and bottom of stroke. A solid mount away from outside vibration. Some measures vary the thrown charge with how much powder is in the hopper. This can vary with type of powder also. A baffle can help here with this. Ive noticed measures seem to do best mid point in the weight range.

A good thing to try with a new measure is to clean it good. mount it up in a solid stand fill hopper and throw a few hundred powder charges. Write the actual weights down in groups of 10. Each 50 or so vary speed and bump. You will soon see where the measure wants to operate at. One thing I think that helps the measures on progressives is the consistency the press operation provides. Pretty much the same time between throws same speed and same stops in operation. You want this in your hand operated measure. Let your measure sit overnight and do to settling and outside vibration the 1 st charge in the morning will be heavy.

One thing I really recommend for the Harrels is the powder bottle adapters. Makes changing emptying the measure quick and easy. remove from stand turn upside down shake a few time unscrew bottle and replace lid.

[Circuit Rider]

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. JC

[Big Wes]

I own two Harrels Shutzen and a premium Very fine piece of equipment . I have no complaints, I like quality tools and these are top notch.

[Circuit Rider]

I'll have to get one. The premium precision model. I just want consistent .3 grain throws.

[DHDeal]

Depending on powder and your technique, they do a fine job. They are well built machines.

I still weigh each charge on a A&D 120i unless I'm using my Dillon's, but that's just me.

[jsizemore]

Kernel size of the powder is the deal. My premium drops 2460 and N133 dead on the number. Varget is a little off and RL-22 is all over the place. My Neal Jones is a little better but not by much.

[Handloader10X]

3 to 10 grains error in throwing powder.
That measure is too dangerous to use. Needs to be destroyed so no one else will be stuck with an unsafe measure.

[Handloader10X]

3 to 10 grains error in throwing powder.
That measure is too dangerous to use. Needs to be destroyed so no one else will be stuck with an unsafe measure.

[Bmi48219]

For me a 3 to 10 grain spread would merit a call to the manufacturer. I thought my Dillon was iffy at +/- .25 grains.

[abunaitoo]

I've tried all different kinds of powder measures.
The dump type.
Harrell's, Neal Jones, Lyman, RCBS, Lee, Herters, Hornady, Midway copy of the Redding, Pacific, Forster, Dillon, and some others.
I have found, for a 100% consistent charge, it is much better to under dump, and then trickle up to weight.
Some powders drop more consistent than others.
I've also found two taps, with a metal rod, to the side of the measure, before the dump, make it more consistent.
Probably why the Lyman has the knocker on it.
The only one I use now is the old Lyman Autoscale.

[country gent]

Learning to use the measure in question is as or more important than the measure it self. Consistent vibration free operation is required to get good throws every time.Same speed same bump in force and numbers of, a solid stable mount.One reason the measures on progressives are accurate is the consistency of operation with the stroke of the press operating them.

The old Belding and Mull was noted for accuracy with BP, stick and most powders some due to the measuring chamber in the sliding block along with the side slides movement and smoothness. But it is 2 hand operation and slower than rotaries. Clamped tightly to a shelf it is very stable and solid.

Some people are better at throwing charges than others ( like all things). Thats just nature. I have a friend that couldnt throw a charge wiith a scoop shovel. It takes practice and some time. A good practice I have found is to 1st clean the new measure with acetone or alcohol, several good wipe downs of all parts to remove oils and preservatives completely, then if desired a wipe down of working surfaces lightly with a dry lube. Also check for burrs and rough areas.When dry reassemble and mount solidly. Fill hopper with desired powder. ( I have been known to rape a 6" steel scale to the side of the hopper to help monitor powder level. St the measure to throw a charge appropriate to the powder ( you wouldnt throw 5 grns of 4895 for anything nor would you throw 40 grns of bullseye) set up the scales and zero set to charge. a note pad and pencil. last is a clean container. Now Start throwing powder charges measure each and note in groups of 10. make not of hopper level start and end on the scale also. return powder to the container not the hopper, one thing your looking for is variations to charges with level in hopper. Throw these charges noting them and level thru the complete hopper. You will see where the powder level needs to be for optimum operation and learn the operation technique the measure desires. One other thing you will see is the first charges are larger spread and get closer the more you throw. Another you will see is the first few charges may not be as good until the powder in the hopper has settled to level of operation. On a brand new out of the box measure there may be a small amount of break in time also until everything smooths and wears together.

Using the upper end measures like culiver harrels Niel Jones is a real joy, the smoothness, ease of operation, ease of setting just make them so enjoyable. The RCBS Lyman 55 and others like them are good and can be reworked to the upper end measures with time and skill. One plus to the upper ends is the ease of setting. On the culiver and harrels you simply count clicks open to adjust. RCBS and redding have micrometor thimbles on their upper ends. ANitheer where the upper ends show is in thrad backlash on the adjustments.

"BLUEPRINTING" a scales to the tighter tolerences along with square and true bores makes a difference but is alot of work. I did a RCBS uniflow. squared sides of housing jig ground the rotor bore to round, made new rotor with shoulder and plate to set end play. Mititoyo micrometer head for adjustment step bored the rotors powder chamber over and soldered a carbide ring in before Id grinding ( ths made a very sharp hard cut edge}. a baffle was added to the hopper. It was better and looked very impressive, worth all the work ???????

[GARD72977]

3 to 10 grain variance sounds like the powder is bridging to me.