Ballard Pacific .40-85 Everlasting

[marlinman93]

Here's another video from the same shoot as the Hepburn. If it looks like I'm fumbling with loading a little, I am! I use 9.3x74R cases fire formed to .40-85, and the case rims are slightly smaller. So I'm trying to ensure the extractor stays under the rim as I chamber them.
This is at 650 yds. also, using factory Ballard tall mid-range vernier tang sight, and fixed globe front sight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJGlGxbflmE&ab_channel=SagebrushLongshots

And this is off topic, but my ride to and from the shoot. 1200 miles on my recently road ready '39 Chevrolet coupe. 18 months of rust and rot repair, and all new drive train and suspension. Hope to paint it this winter.

https://i.imgur.com/6LfDmoQ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8aESN0Pl.jpg

[skeettx]

GREAT video
I enjoyed all of it, including the company of folks
Well done
Mike

[smithnframe]

Don't paint it.......looks good the way it is!

[marlinman93]

Don't paint it.......looks good the way it is!

I guess I'm old school, because I like my hotrods painted.

[falmike]

Outstanding!

[uscra112]

Jeez, man. When do you sleep? DO you sleep?

Nice car.

[koger]

Great looking and shooting rifle. Really enjoyed the video, thanks for sharing.

[marlinman93]

Jeez, man. When do you sleep? DO you sleep?

Nice car.

I'm not good at sitting still long. If I didn't have the '39 build going during this covid crap I'd have climbed the walls! I can sit for maybe an hour and do nothing, and then I get too antsy and have to find something to do.
There's not one thing on my '39 build that I hired out, although I did try to! I got stupid prices to do all the glass, so I bought one of those glass suction cup devices, and did it all myself.
I got stupid prices to sew up all the interior, so bought a good refurbished commercial machine, and sewed all my interior also. And of course I built the engine, and did all the suspension, including narrowing a '58 Chev truck front axle 5" and converting it to disc brakes to fit under the front.
But after shooting the gray primer, I'll pay someone else to paint it. I don't have the room, or skills to do good paint work. But I'd try it if I had access to a booth, as that too is crazy priced.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I enjoy looking at your videos very much. In the next one, could you show the metal target while you are shooting? Thanks.

[gnoahhh]

Excellent, on both counts!

[marlinman93]

I enjoy looking at your videos very much. In the next one, could you show the metal target while you are shooting? Thanks.

Sorry, but I'm not the video guy. Way above my pay grade GS. But he does occasionally show the metal plate during some videos. But here's another of my friend shooting the 18" dinger at 500 yds. with his Shiloh Sharps. It shows the plate inset in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUYjriqDzrY&feature=emb_logo&ab_channel=SagebrushLongshots

[GARD72977]

I have watched several of your videos and didn't know it was you. Nice to put a face to your threads.

[koger]

Like said above, great video, good to see your face and put it with a name.

[marlinman93]

Thanks, but can't take credit for the videos, as I'm just one of those shooting in them, and not the maker. Our friend has always been dedicated to making the videos, and trying to encourage long-range shooting with all sorts of old guns.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

Thanks a lot marlinguy. I enjoyed that very much.

[Green Frog]

Marlinman93, I’m glad to find I’m not the only one who has extraction problems with modern cases extracting from a 40-85 or 40-90. I have to be sure my ramrod is available for just that reason. I have one original 40-90 round and the rim doesn’t really look that much larger, but a little more rim makes a big difference!

Froggie

[marlinman93]

Marlinman93, I’m glad to find I’m not the only one who has extraction problems with modern cases extracting from a 40-85 or 40-90. I have to be sure my ramrod is available for just that reason. I have one original 40-90 round and the rim doesn’t really look that much larger, but a little more rim makes a big difference!

Froggie

No extraction issues at all with modern brass in mine Charlie. It's chambering that requires care. I've never had any problems with extracting these 9.3x74r cases with the smaller rims. But my Pacific chamber and bore is like new condition, which makes for tight tolerances.

[Green Frog]

Thanks Vall. I’m wondering whether I should just have a little bit of TIG welding added to increase the “bite” of the extractor. My bore is just marginally acceptable, and I’m trying to decide whether to have it bored out to 45-70 or relined to 38-55. Oddly enough, the gun is all matching numbers except the barrel and fore end that have their own (matched numbers. Also, the barrel has all the usual Marlin markings except it is totally unmarked for caliber(!?!). I’d like to find out for sure whether it will shoot acceptably with the current caliber, then decide whether to keep it as is or rebore/reline.

Froggie

PS I like your hot rod too! I can visualize it either as a sedate mid green with dark green fenders or red with flames. Do you plan to to drive it to church? ;)

[ndnchf]

In your video with the guy shooting the Shiloh, what is he pushing through the bore and dropping into the tub? It sounds like something heavier than just a patch.

[marlinman93]

In your video with the guy shooting the Shiloh, what is he pushing through the bore and dropping into the tub? It sounds like something heavier than just a patch.

He's using a squeegee with a wetted patch behind it. The BACO squeegee has a rubber that wipes the bore, and a oiled swab behind it. Then he uses the wetted patches and a rod to push it all down the bore.
Seems like most serious BP shooters have gone to wiping between each shot this way.

[marlinman93]

Thanks Vall. I’m wondering whether I should just have a little bit of TIG welding added to increase the “bite” of the extractor. My bore is just marginally acceptable, and I’m trying to decide whether to have it bored out to 45-70 or relined to 38-55. Oddly enough, the gun is all matching numbers except the barrel and fore end that have their own (matched numbers. Also, the barrel has all the usual Marlin markings except it is totally unmarked for caliber(!?!). I’d like to find out for sure whether it will shoot acceptably with the current caliber, then decide whether to keep it as is or rebore/reline.

Froggie

PS I like your hot rod too! I can visualize it either as a sedate mid green with dark green fenders or red with flames. Do you plan to to drive it to church? ;)

"Usual Marlin markings"??? Usual for a Ballard was nothing but a serial number under the forearm on JM Marlin made Ballards. On later Marlin Firearms Co. made Ballards they added serial number, and caliber.
But I've never seen a Marlin Ballard with anything more than serial number and caliber. Does yours have more than a serial number?

If the bore is bad, I'd not waste time on reworking the extractor myself. I'd have it bored or relined, and then make the extractor match the new bore and chamber. Since it's a .40-85 now, I'd have it relined to the same, but have the chamber cut to use 9.3x74R brass formed out to .40-85. This way the extractor, and the chamber would fit perfect, and it would remain the original marked caliber.
I'm contemplating fitting a spare extractor to mine to fit the 9.3 case rim better. Then put the original extractor in the safe and mark what it's for.

[Green Frog]

Maybe I came through a little too negative with regards to the bore... it’s a reasonably good shooter grade bore, I just don’t know how it would do for long range accuracy. That’s why I want to try it. If I do go with a liner, it will probably be a smaller bore such as a 38-55 or even 33-47 since the barrel isn’t marked at all for caliber. Of course a rebore to 45-70 would mean I could use it for BPCS and get brass easily. I’ll have to go into the safe and check for other markings... but I thought there was a roll mark on top... but no caliber marking.

More later.
Froggie

[Argentino]

Nice rifle and nice car too. Almost any mechanical device capable of burning either powder or fuel has my attention.

I´ve watched a lot of videos from that channel and I always enjoy them. Didn´t know you were a member here too.

Keep it up.

Argie.

[marlinman93]

Maybe I came through a little too negative with regards to the bore... it’s a reasonably good shooter grade bore, I just don’t know how it would do for long range accuracy. That’s why I want to try it. If I do go with a liner, it will probably be a smaller bore such as a 38-55 or even 33-47 since the barrel isn’t marked at all for caliber. Of course a rebore to 45-70 would mean I could use it for BPCS and get brass easily. I’ll have to go into the safe and check for other markings... but I thought there was a roll mark on top... but no caliber marking.

More later.
Froggie

I like to maintain the original caliber if brass is easy to get. But I understand wanting to go to a caliber that is cheaper, and easier to get brass for.
I personally love old .40 caliber cartridges in my single shots, and much more so for long range shooting than I do my .45-70 caliber guns. Even with heavier bullets like my 415 gr. Snover in my Pacific .40-85, it still is easier on my shoulder than my .45-70 is with equal weight bullets, and a little more accurate.
But my favorite bullet with my various .40's is something in the 315-360 gr. range, and have found they're very close to the heavier Snover, without the felt recoil of the 415 gr. bullet. I rarely shoot my .45-70's much, and seem to always grab either my .40-85, .40-65, or .40-63 rifles.
My latest infatuation is the .40-50SS cartridge. I picked up a Rolling Block Sporting rifle from Ed Curtis at Denver a couple years ago, and it turned out to be such a great smokeless cartridge that I decided my in progress build of my Creedmoor "style" Rolling Block Sporter got changed from a .40-65 Win. to a .40-50SS chamber. I'm still working up and perfecting loads for the Roller's 34" barrel, but it shows a lot of promise with my 315 gr. bullets at long distance.

[Green Frog]

Vall, I finally went to the safe and got out my Pacific. You were right... no barrel markings. In fact, there was nothing at all on top, not even a caliber marking. Underneath, after removing the fore end the only marking was the serial number. 6869. My memory was faulty though, as the fore end itself was unmarked. The receiver and block as well as everything else that gets numbered is all marked 11074. The bore is so dirty right now I really can't tell what's left, but I hope get that taken care of tomorrow night. I measured it many years ago and the bore is unusually large, but it so happened that Jim Borton had a mould in the right diameter from the time he and Barry Darr were making moulds together, so if I can get the brass (and extraction) problems dealt with, I just need to know whether the bore is going to be up to the job. BTW, I have one of the Lyman tang sights with the windage block on top (sorta like the Pope type) called a #52A and I've got a couple of globe front sights to choose from... that will come soon.

Froggie

[marlinman93]

Charlie, the forearms are stamped on the back edge that butts to the receiver. In the case of a Pacific they often did part of the serial number on either side of the wiping rod hole, so it might have a couple digits of the number on each side.
Since your barrel is a mismatch number, and no caliber marking, there's no harm in making it whatever caliber you want now.

[Green Frog]

Charlie, the forearms are stamped on the back edge that butts to the receiver. In the case of a Pacific they often did part of the serial number on either side of the wiping rod hole, so it might have a couple digits of the number on each side.
Since your barrel is a mismatch number, and no caliber marking, there's no harm in making it whatever caliber you want now.

That was my feeling, and since I’ve never had a good 38-55, that’s one possibility if I line it. Either that or the modern version of the 40-70 made out of Krag brass. Reboring to 45-70 would probably be about as simple, and I could then recut the same extractor.

Froggie

[marlinman93]

Reboring to .35-70 would be cheapest and easiest. And would make it a great BPCR or BPTR rifle.

[Green Frog]

“Reboring to 35-70...“. Is this a typo? I assume you meant 45-70. I’m guessing there’s enough heft to the Pacific to handle the recoil this will give me, right? Was the 45-70 chambering commonly available in (original) #5s? I’m thinking it would be a “safe” investment to make altering this unmarked barrel. Also, as previously mentioned, this would let me recut the original extractor. Sounds like win-win!

Froggie

[marlinman93]

“Reboring to 35-70...“. Is this a typo? I assume you meant 45-70. I’m guessing there’s enough heft to the Pacific to handle the recoil this will give me, right? Was the 45-70 chambering commonly available in (original) #5s? I’m thinking it would be a “safe” investment to make altering this unmarked barrel. Also, as previously mentioned, this would let me recut the original extractor. Sounds like win-win!

Froggie

Yes, mistype on my part. The .45-70 was a common caliber available in a Pacific, and my first one was in this caliber. I traded it off for my Pope Ballard 3 barrel set a couple years ago, since I had my .40-85 that was much nicer.
I assume yours being a .40-85 barrel that it has plenty of meat to go to .457" bore. If it was a smaller caliber like .38-55 it might be a lighter barrel profile, and then it might not handle recoil well in the .45-70 caliber.
A reline will likely set you back about $500-$550, but you'd have to check to see for sure what it costs. I think rebores are still under $200, so a lot cheaper, and since there's no liner or caliber marking the value is much better.

[hawkenhunter50]

Here's another video from the same shoot as the Hepburn. If it looks like I'm fumbling with loading a little, I am! I use 9.3x74R cases fire formed to .40-85, and the case rims are slightly smaller. So I'm trying to ensure the extractor stays under the rim as I chamber them.
This is at 650 yds. also, using factory Ballard tall mid-range vernier tang sight, and fixed globe front sight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJGlGxbflmE&ab_channel=SagebrushLongshots

And this is off topic, but my ride to and from the shoot. 1200 miles on my recently road ready '39 Chevrolet coupe. 18 months of rust and rot repair, and all new drive train and suspension. Hope to paint it this winter.

https://i.imgur.com/6LfDmoQ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8aESN0Pl.jpg

Man am I jealous at you guys that have access to shooting distances like that. Cool video, thanks for sharing.

[marlinman93]

Man am I jealous at you guys that have access to shooting distances like that. Cool video, thanks for sharing.

Thanks!
Well it's an all day drive for me to get there, so not exactly close access, but worth the trip! My gun club has 1000 yds. but it's usually went on this side of the state, and misses are tough to see! Over East we get great dust to see if you miss!

[Green Frog]

My earliest high wall with an original barrel has what is referred to as a “salt and pepper” bore. In 32-40 it shoots cast bullets with moderate fixed loads (185-200 gr bullet over 13.6 gr 4759) surprisingly well, but doesn’t like BP at all. I’m wondering whether I’ll experience the same thing with my 40-90. Time will tell.

Froggie

[marlinman93]

My earliest high wall with an original barrel has what is referred to as a “salt and pepper” bore. In 32-40 it shoots cast bullets with moderate fixed loads (185-200 gr bullet over 13.6 gr 4759) surprisingly well, but doesn’t like BP at all. I’m wondering whether I’ll experience the same thing with my 40-90. Time will tell.

Froggie


I've not shot much BP in .32-40 even with good bores. Just never found it to work as well as smokeless.

[Green Frog]

I've not shot much BP in .32-40 even with good bores. Just never found it to work as well as smokeless.

I guess the real questions I’m left with are whether I could find suitable smokeless loads for those huge cases and whether I would have any hope of finding a mild smokeless load that was also accurate with that salt and pepper barrel.

I don’t want to stress that old warrior with too hot a load (even if it is a forged action) but I also don’t want to waste a lot of time and effort working with something that has no hope of success.

Am I going to need to go hard, medium, or soft with my alloy, and will I need something other than my standby lubes like Emmert’s?

[marlinman93]

I've tried everything from 30:1 to 15:1 and not noticed any difference with mine. But my bore is perfect, and looks unfired when I bought mine. It had a very gentle life, and saw little use.
I only shoot smokeless, and at first was concerned with the huge case, and how it might work. But I have other .40's with large cases I shoot smokeless in, so just used loads I'd worked up for them, and went from that point. I started with a load I used in my .40-65 Rolling Block, and it's pretty mild for that gun. My loads are around 1350 fps, with the 315 gr. bullet, and comfortable.
A lot of my old guns I've used the old Ideal loading manual data for. Some of the loads are pretty warm, so I wont try them, but others proved to be great.

[Green Frog]

Well, just for grins and giggles I ran some JB’s Bore paste through the Pacific’s barrel and it came out a lot nicer than I expected. :smile: it actually looks a little nicer than the high wall did. I guess I’ll have to cast up some bullets and lube them and see what kind of results I can get before I make any changes to the gun. :cbpour:

Now I have to find a safe smokeless load for Norma brass and one of the 40 cal bullets I have on hand. I’d like to find one for either 4759 or AA #9 since they are what I use in other BP cartridges. :bigsmyl2:

Froggie

[marlinman93]

Well, just for grins and giggles I ran some JB’s Bore paste through the Pacific’s barrel and it came out a lot nicer than I expected. :smile: it actually looks a little nicer than the high wall did. I guess I’ll have to cast up some bullets and lube them and see what kind of results I can get before I make any changes to the gun. :cbpour:

Now I have to find a safe smokeless load for Norma brass and one of the 40 cal bullets I have on hand. I’d like to find one for either 4759 or AA #9 since they are what I use in other BP cartridges. :bigsmyl2:

Froggie

What weight bullet Charlie?

[Green Frog]

What weight bullet Charlie?

I thought I had some, but now I need to do some casting... I’ll have to get back to you.
In the meanwhile, that old #5 sure does look a lot better after just a minimal amount of TLC! ;)

Froggie

PS I would love to find a Pacific-style lever for a single trigger gun to use on my Franken-Smith. They just look right! Does anybody make one these days?

[marlinman93]

Froggie

PS I would love to find a Pacific-style lever for a single trigger gun to use on my Franken-Smith. They just look right! Does anybody make one these days?

Before Marlin incorporated in 1881 and went from JM Marlin Co. to Marlin Firearms Co. all levers for the single trigger hunting models were ring levers. Then after 1881 they became the common S lever we see so often. So what you need is the early JM Marlin lever, which are rarely seen for sale separate from guns. Maybe Rodney Storie could cast some if there was enough requests for them?
This is my early gun with ring lever:

https://i.imgur.com/4syNdTil.jpg

[Green Frog]

Bingo! That’s the one I want for my 22 cal Franken-Ballard. It’s odd that the pre-Marlin Ballards often had the loop type lever, then the closed loop (Pacific-style) levers came along, followed by the “last S” style found so commonly on the basic models. I guess the last style made for more comfortable shooting, but the Pacific type just looks so good! 8-)

I’ve just barely missed a couple on fleaBay over the years but still don’t have one. :(

Froggie

[marlinman93]

Loop levers were common throughout all Marlin Ballard year of manufacture, if the gun was a pistol grip receiver and stock. Never made a straight grip loop lever, which kinda puzzled me since Marlin made many straight grip loop lever repeaters. I would have thought it could be a neat option, and easily done by them.
I personally love the pistol grip, loop lever Ballard models, but even more so the ball and spur levers! Both are just the neatest style lever of any single shot rifle I've ever seen. The loop lever on pistol grip Ballards was not something often seen on other maker's single shot rifles, so it is often looked at as a Marlin exclusive item.

Loop lever on my Rigby Ballard:

https://i.imgur.com/3Qj37Oql.jpg

Ball & spur lever on my Schoyen Ballard #6 Schuetzen:

https://i.imgur.com/HiaSDo1l.jpg


And an early Brown style lever on my 3 digit Ballard #4 Perfection. These guns had a hole in the lever and a pin in the frame the hole fit over. They predate the ring lever.

https://i.imgur.com/bfJXdkYl.jpg

And a modified Pacific lever fitted with Pope style finger grip brass piece on another of my Schoyen Ballard rifles:

https://i.imgur.com/ukUHvJjl.jpg

[Green Frog]

The Brown lever is the one I was calling an earlier “loop” lever. I’ve heard the one that looks like it came from a lever action repeater called a “four finger” lever, and of course there were a ton of the “lazy S” levers on the later Marlins. I have an old Storie-cast four finger lever (single trigger) and have given thought to heating and straightening it. I just don’t know how that cast steel would react to such indignities.

On another note, I just found the 100 rounds of Nosler 9.3X74 R brass I forgot I had bought... it looks pretty darned close to the one actual 40-85 factory round I had. The Norma 405 brass I thought was all I had is obviously way too short, and apropos of nothing, I also found a single factory round of 40-90 Sharps Straight and a box of Bell 40 Basic... boy, are those things looonnng!! :shock:

Froggie

[marlinman93]

The Brown lever is the one I was calling an earlier “loop” lever. I’ve heard the one that looks like it came from a lever action repeater called a “four finger” lever, and of course there were a ton of the “lazy S” levers on the later Marlins. I have an old Storie-cast four finger lever (single trigger) and have given thought to heating and straightening it. I just don’t know how that cast steel would react to such indignities.

On another note, I just found the 100 rounds of Nosler 9.3X74 R brass I forgot I had bought... it looks pretty darned close to the one actual 40-85 factory round I had. The Norma 405 brass I thought was all I had is obviously way too short, and apropos of nothing, I also found a single factory round of 40-90 Sharps Straight and a box of Bell 40 Basic... boy, are those things looonnng!! :shock:

Froggie

The loop lever you referred to as 4 finger lever was made in two lengths. One like my Rigby that ended even with the pistol grip stock, and another that extended about 3/16" past the bottom of the pistol grip. I've never figured out why Marlin made some longer, and haven't seen enough of them to determine any era, or model they were common to?

[Green Frog]

Vall, is anybody selling a blank extractor or better yet, one tight sized for 40-85/90? My existing extractor just barely touches the original round’s rim, and doesn’t even as it goes by the 9.3X74R rim.

Froggie

[marlinman93]

Vall, is anybody selling a blank extractor or better yet, one tight sized for 40-85/90? My existing extractor just barely touches the original round’s rim, and doesn’t even as it goes by the 9.3X74R rim.

Froggie

Give The Rifle Shoppe a call and ask him about his extractor blanks. I haven't bought one from him yet, but he can tell you how much material is on it, and what calibers it can be reworked to fit.

[Green Frog]

Well, now that I’m getting into it, the Pacific is getting nicer and nicer. The bore is becoming more and more shiny and the spots I was most concerned about are getting less and less distinct... I think it’s going to be OK. I tried a few of my 235 grain bullets I cast for my Maynard 40-40, and light as they Re, they showed signs of wanting to work. I had fireformed a half dozen rounds of the brass with light charges and cornmeal, topped with toilet paper (nothing cheap about me!) so today I loaded 5 of those rounds with the little Maynard bullets on 85 grains of 3f, and took another 4 pieces of virgin brass to fire form. Fresh out of the first fire form, the brass is still small from base nearly to neck, but when I shot them with a bullet today they blew out perfectly. See picture... left new brass, middle formed once, and right final formed. :cool:

Now I’ve gotta get the blankety blank extractor taken care of! :veryconfu

Froggie

[marlinman93]

I use my Lyman M die and simply expand the 9.5 necks to .410" and then load the cases with my powder and bullets. I tried this when I first got the gun thinking maybe they'd be OK accuracy, and better after forming fully. But I've found they shoot as well fire forming as they do on the 2nd loading. So I don't worry about the fire forming step now. If I want more to load I just grab another box of Nosler cases from my cheap stash and expand them.
They have a somewhat wasp like waist below the neck before the first firing, but seem to sit well in the chamber anyway. It's one of the easiest brass I form with, and simplest too. Don't even need any trimming for length, as it's perfect as is.

[Green Frog]

Thanks for that. I was just getting ready to load another 15 rounds for the two-step process. If I can find my 40 cal expander die, I’ll try your method first. Now all I have to do is call the Rifle Shoppe or somebody else who might have a good extractor for me and I’ll be good to go.

Did I mention I’ve been putzing around with this project for over a decade? I guess it’s getting to be time for me to get off my tookus and actually get this thing back on the firing line. One question seems to remain... it looks like my bore and groove diameter may be significantly larger than advertised. I shot some .413” bullets through it, but if I drag out the B&D mould, not only is it a heavier bullet, but it’s a couple of thou larger as well. What weight and diameter are you using Vall?

Froggie

Froggie

[marlinman93]

Thanks for that. I was just getting ready to load another 15 rounds for the two-step process. If I can find my 40 cal expander die, I’ll try your method first. Now all I have to do is call the Rifle Shoppe or somebody else who might have a good extractor for me and I’ll be good to go.

Did I mention I’ve been putzing around with this project for over a decade? I guess it’s getting to be time for me to get off my tookus and actually get this thing back on the firing line. One question seems to remain... it looks like my bore and groove diameter may be significantly larger than advertised. I shot some .413” bullets through it, but if I drag out the B&D mould, not only is it a heavier bullet, but it’s a couple of thou larger as well. What weight and diameter are you using Vall?

Froggie

Froggie

My mold drops a 315 gr. bullet that's .410" diameter. My bore is .4095" when I slugged it. If your bore is oversized, it might make larger .411-.412" bullets seated in the case not chamber at all without thinning the necks. And the 9.5 cases have pretty thin necks. So I'd try one loaded before I got too far along making up ammo and cases.

[Green Frog]

The bullets from my B&D mould (the conical, 235 gr design) drop out at about .414-.415”. I have a handful left that were cast several years ago, and when I tried them in the fire formed cases, they dropped right in, so I don’t think that’s going to be a problem. In fact, way back when I started trying to shoot this gun, I think I measured the groove diameter as way oversized... about .416”, and bought the B&D mould from Jim Borton accordingly. To be honest, one of my slow downs in the project occurred about then, and I really don’t recall ever casting a single bullet from that mould. It came from the days when Barry and Jim were working together closely though, and looked really good... I expect nice bullets from it.

Back to reforming the brass... I’ve got a 40 cal belling die to go in my Lyman multi-sizer, but it’s for pistols. I don’t know whether it will open the case mouths enough to accept those .414 Maynard bullets. I plan to try a few later today though. I bought 100 of those cases very reasonably one time when they had a factory clearance sale, and so far I’m on my first 10 rounds. I guess it’s time to go ahead and form the rest of that first box of 25 and get semi-serious about this, huh?

Froggie

[marlinman93]

My M die for .40 caliber is one I reworked from a .45 caliber plug. Lyman sells the plugs separately from the M dies, so I buy plugs the next size larger for $3, and then turn them down to the exact size I need. If it needs much taken down I use my small lathe, but if it's just a small adjustment I put them in my drill press and use a file or sandpaper to reduce them to the size I need.
The plugs are different depths depending on whether they're for pistol or rifle, so I always pick a rifle plug to ensure it will expend deep enough into my case neck to allow a bullet to fully seat.

[Green Frog]

Well, I couldn’t find the 40 cal expander for my Lyman Multi-Die, so I went on and used the old BP, Cream of Wheat and TP method to blow out ten more cases so I have a set of 20. Next I’ll load them with full charges of BP and light bullets to finish forming them out. This will just about exhaust my supply of these bullets, so I’ll have to get out the old lead pot and cast up some more. I’ve got the Maynard style mould for the “cylindrical” (long round nose) bullet that runs a little over 250 grains and although lighter than the one you’re using, Vall, I think will make a nice “express” version of the round.

Froggie

PS The Rifle Shoppe is listing a blank extractor (raw casting) for the Ballard, so I guess I’ll order one of them.

[Chill Wills]

For what it is worth, ....The Wyoming Armory is/was a source of Ballard extractors and I picked up two from them some time back. I can't say they always have them, but they are well finished and ready to be cut to the case needed and installed.


"
Froggie

PS The Rifle Shoppe is listing a blank extractor (raw casting) for the Ballard, so I guess I’ll order one of them. "

[marlinman93]

For what it is worth, ....The Wyoming Armory is/was a source of Ballard extractors and I picked up two from them some time back. I can't say they always have them, but they are well finished and ready to be cut to the case needed and installed.


"
Froggie

PS The Rifle Shoppe is listing a blank extractor (raw casting) for the Ballard, so I guess I’ll order one of them. "

That's great info! Didn't know they had them also in blanks. Do recall what they're charging for theirs?

[Green Frog]

Wyoming Armory no longer shows any Ballard parts on their website (at least when I looked yesterday) but The Rifle Shoppe shows raw castings for $19.95 + S/H.

Froggie

[Green Frog]

Went over to Roanoke yesterday to the Sportsman’s Warehouse and bought a #4 RCBS shell holder to fit the 9.3X74 case heads... it had to be a RCBS brand to work with an old Arawinko-made re- and de- I had stashed from my old days working with product reviews for the ASSRA Journal. I was pleased to see how quickly I could process the 20 formed (or partially formed) cases I’ve done so far. I plan to load them up and hopefully get them out to the range sometime Monday or Tuesday. Of course I still have to take my ramrod with me since I haven’t gotten a new extractor yet. Hopefully that will happen soon.

Froggie