Bad Luck with My New Ruger Vaquero

[mtgrs737]

I must of been born under a bad single action star. My new Ruger Vaquero in 45LC is jamming when I try to pull the hammer back. I have checked the cartridges to make sure that they are not interfearing with the cylinder rotation and can find no problem. I have even removed the cylinder when the jamming happens and it still won't allow the hammer to be pulled back. So far I have been able to fire ten rounds out of my new Ruger. I will buy a box of factory ammo just to make sure that my reloads consisting of CBC case, WWLP, 8grs. Unique, Lyman 452664 boolit are not the problem. Anyone here have this problem, it would be nice to fix it myself and save the shipping and wait problems.

[Echo]

If the malfunction occurs when the cylinder is removed from the weapon, cartridges have nothing to do with the problem/ have a smith take it apart and find what is broke/bent/missing, or send it back to Ruger.

[leadhead 500]

sounds like the hand torsion spring is messed up.I just went thru this with a
Smith&Wesson.

[jack19512]

I have had this problem with a new Ruger GP100 .357 and it has happened several times now but I have not figured out what it's problem is. I am going to continue using it and if the problem continues I will send it back to Ruger and let them figure it out.

[NHlever]

Sounds to me like it could just be the transfer bar catching on the firing pin. Tip the gun to the rear ( barrel pointed up) and see if it still bothers. Once in a while there is one that needs just a bit of chamfer on the transfer bar to ride over the firing pin correctly. The other thing that could cause that is that the base pin is not installed all the way in. The little plunger in the end of the base pin is what pushes the transfer bar out of the way.. With the cylinder out, and the base pin forward you have to tip back most Blackhawk / Vaquero's to be able to pull the hammer back. Hope this is of some help.

[mtgrs737]

NHlever,

Come to think of it the binding did occur when the tip of the transfer bar was up under the firing pin. I will have another look at it!

[mellonhead]

Sounds like the base pin is moving out, or the spring in the end is junk.

Toby

[Deacon Stone]

10 rounds through mine and it was back to ruger. They replaced base pin, transfer bar, all springs and the cylinder, and for whatever reason the ejector rod. Only thing that upset me was they admitted it was there falt but I had to pay to have it shipped to the company. They paid to ship it back. But still it add another 30 dollars to the price of a new gun. Everybody told me I wouldn't have problem and couldn't wear it out, and if I did I could have them rebuilt. I still love my Beretta Stampedes.

Deacon Stone

[mtgrs737]

It looks like the transfer bar is catching on the firing pin. But I can't make it happen without pulling the cylinder pin out past the lock notch. I will test it again, maybe the cylinder pin was not all the way in and seated but I am pretty sure it was. I hope I don't have to send it in as the shipping on guns is way too high via overnight. Ruger should pay to have it returned.

[jack19512]

Ruger should pay to have it returned.









I think Ruger will pick up the tab for both ways if you ask them. At least they paid mine both ways when I had to send them my 50th Anniversary 44 mag.

[unclebill]

I think Ruger will pick up the tab for both ways if you ask them. At least they paid mine both ways when I had to send them my 50th Anniversary 44 mag.

me too.
it was on their dime.
i just called and asked them nicely for a shipping tag.

[NHlever]

Yes, Ruger will more than likely pay the shipping both ways, but you have to call them first! Call them BEFORE you send the gun, describe the problem, and ask about shipping. Hopefully, you won't have to send the Vaquero to them at all. It is possible that the cylinder pin ( base pin to Ruger) was correctly installed, and recoil unseated it, and caused it to move out a bit.

[freedom475]

It is surely your base pin.....Why send it back to Ruger just to have it replaced with ANOTHER $h&)tty base pin???????

Call Belt Mountain and have them send you a Good one! Buy the hardened steel latch while you are there..... I suggest NOT going with the "Set Screw" design (or at least not tightening it down) because it requires an extra tool to remove your cylinder....not very handy while your in the field.

There base pins are made just like the way Ruger usto before they started lathe turning the notch.
Here is there site.....http://beltmountain.com/ruger.htm

[gunsbrad]

I just bought a brand new 44 anniversary flattop this summer with the same problem. It was not the basepin. It was the cylinder. I called ruger and they said to ship it in. I told them it should be their responsibility to ship it and they picked up the tab. They just didn't volunteer.

2 months later it returned all hunky dory. Most accurrate factory Ruger I have ever fired. More accurate than some customs. The point is this is a new gun. Call them and insist they make it right on their dime. You will be happy.

I have had to send four brand new guns back to the manufacturer. 4 different brands. 4 times satisfied with results. Bad stuff happens in manufacturing. Good manufacturers correct their problems. For Free.

Brad

[mtgrs737]

Just got back from firing the rest of the box of ammo, all seems to be working well! It must of been the base pin, I tried pulling it out to the max of the retainer cross lock latch and it still worked Ok. I think that I will order the belt mountain base pin as the stock Ruger pin is a little loose.

I would like to thank you guys for posting your ideas and helping me out with this problem. I appreciate your help! Now if you can help me find a way to keep the back of the trigger guard from bumping my middle finger so hard during firing the comfort level would go up. LOL!

My first impressions of this revolver is Top Notch! My load shoots to Point of Aim if I do my part, I am very pleased so far.

[S.R.Custom]

...Now if you can help me find a way to keep the back of the trigger guard from bumping my middle finger so hard during firing the comfort level would go up. LOL!

Increased hand strength and the resulting firmer grip on the gun takes care of that. Just about any hand exercise and/or gizmo will work for that if you do it regularly enough.

[mtgrs737]

I will give it a try! Thanks SuperMag!

[dmen]

Another trick that might work on the recoil bump is to put your pinky finger on the bottom of the grip instead of in front of it. dmen

[mtgrs737]

Ordered a beltmountain base pin, but not the lock as he didn't have it in stainless. I hope it removes most of the fore and aft play in the base pin, he said his will have more surface area to bear against. Now for leather, as this is the only SA I own, I've got to have a nice holster and belt! Might need some fake ivory grips too. I already am keeping the pinky under the grip as my hands are wide, but I think just holding firmer will do the trick and of course practice! Thanks again guys!

[runfiverun]

as most sixguns are made to roll in your hand, part of the finger hitting is technique.
if it still hits put a bandaid on it.

[StrawHat]

as most sixguns are made to roll in your hand, part of the finger hitting is technique.
if it still hits put a bandaid on it.

You thinking the triggerguard is getting hurt?:kidding:

[August]

The last thing I do before going to the line is to check that the basepins are fully latched. As I think has already been said, the spring that lifts the transfer bar over the firing pin is inside the basepin.

This is a common pilot error problem with rooogers and easily avoidable with proper pre-flight inspection.

[jack19512]

Now if you can help me find a way to keep the back of the trigger guard from bumping my middle finger so hard during firing the comfort level would go up. LOL!








Sounds like you are having the same problem that I am having with my SBH 44 mag. My finger is still sore. :-?

[mtgrs737]

Sounds like you are having the same problem that I am having with my SBH 44 mag. My finger is still sore. :-?

I have to admit that my finger started out sore, I think I had a little arthoritis in it. Today it is better and I am able to grip the stocks better so I will try some of the suggestions offered here. I have not been having any more problems with the base pin, I just make sure it is well seated before the first shot. I do have a new aftermarket Belt Mountain pin coming in the mail which should be insurance against it coming loose again.

[freedom475]

You know after all this accusing the base pin.....It is usually the latch that gets a bunch of little dings in it from the pin slamming into it....because the pin fits too loose

The latch can be rotated a little and the problem goes away until the latch rotates back to that spot or it puts a new dent in the latch.

I have a latch that I will post a picture of tommorow ( if I can find it)so you can see how bad it can get.

I too hesitated about buying the Blued, hardened latch from Belt MT, But when I got it and installed it on the the stainless SBH it look GREAT...

I apolagize as I am one of the ones that mislead you on this matter but I bet your problem will Not go away until the latch is changed...at least not for the long term... Pull your latch, (before you put in your new pin)I'll bet ya a $1 it has a ring of dents in it.:Fire:

[mtgrs737]

You know after all this accusing the base pin.....It is usually the latch that gets a bunch of little dings in it from the pin slamming into it....because the pin fits too loose

The latch can be rotated a little and the problem goes away until the latch rotates back to that spot or it puts a new dent in the latch.

I have a latch that I will post a picture of tommorow ( if I can find it)so you can see how bad it can get.

I too hesitated about buying the Blued, hardened latch from Belt MT, But when I got it and installed it on the the stainless SBH it look GREAT...

I apolagize as I am one of the ones that mislead you on this matter but I bet your problem will Not go away until the latch is changed...at least not for the long term... Pull your latch, (before you put in your new pin)I'll bet ya a $1 it has a ring of dents in it.:Fire:


I can understand the dents in the latch from the base pin slamming into it. The two round pins (latch and base pin) will have a very small contact point.

I got the new SS Belt Mountain pin Today and installed it in my Vaquero. The BM base pin was much tighter in the frame than the stock pin was. The cylinder spins freely but has no precevible axial movement so it is a close fit. The best part is that the forward and aft movement of the factory base pin is all but gone with the Belt Mountian pin. Only a very slight movement that is almost undetectable and with the single cut for the lock it will most likely stay that way as there is much more surface for the latch to bear against. The installtion instructions say that you may have to polish the pin to get it to fit but mine slid in with oil and careful alinement, I would not want it any tighter!

Thanks again guys for all your suggestions, everyone of them! What a great bunch of guys! :drinks:

[joedapro]

Sounds like the base pin is moving out, or the spring in the end is junk.

Toby

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