Broken Lee C press

[poppy42]

Just wondering if anybody out there has a broken inexpensive Lee see press that they were willing to part with? Don’t need to ram, don’t need the linkage, really just need the base and at least a few of the threads that the die screws into. Want to use it for a powder measure stand so all the threads don’t need to be intact. Just enough to hold the powder measure. I certainly don’t want something that someone can use for a reloading press. I figured I’d ask just in case someone had one laying around that was destined for the scrapheap.

[Winger Ed.]

If one doesn't turn up, I've made them before with a strip of either 3/16" or 1/4" x 2" steel.

Beat it over into sort of a straight up/90 degree, 'Z' shape.
Mount it on the bench, with a hole bored through the top for the measure to drop into.

[poppy42]

Nothing mounts to my bench permanently. All my equipment mounts with plastic knob thumb screws and T nuts. Not that that really maters. Any attempt I’ve made Is hampered by the fact that I have no means of bending thick flat stock. If you don’t make it thick enough and strong enough every time you drop a charge it bounces all over the place. I plan on using it for my RCBS Uniflow, and/Or my Lyman 55. Not one of the lighter Lee powder measures. So it has to be pretty stout, with no spring in it. That’s why I figured a broken we see press would be perfect.

[Joe504]

Would something like this be easier?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201001/71058dc36f3c9dd6932ed7680fe8beb2.jpg

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[country gent]

I have made them for friends from many materials. Not hard to do but your right it needs to be solid and stable. One of the nicer ones was made from hard maple. 3/4" x 4" x 6" base 8" tall 3/4 X 3 upright and a 3/4" x 2" x 6" top with the threaded hole. all parts were sanded before assembly to 320. Then doweled and glued. cleaned up and sanded again then a nice tru oil finish. Threads were put in the wood easily by cutting the hole with a 7/8 hole saw then a die body was waxed several times and installed with a narrow wrap of tape holding the bottom in place and sealing the hole, then JB weld was mixed and worked in the gap around die. this made good solid string threads that were a tight fit.

If your capable and like diy give making one a try

[poppy42]

Would something like this be easier?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201001/71058dc36f3c9dd6932ed7680fe8beb2.jpg

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That’s actually what I’m talking about, but don’t know many people with RCBS powder measure stand laying around that they were throwing out. Broken press maybe

[JM7.7x58]

I’m a welder by trade. I can fabricate just about anything that I want out of steel. With that being said, the older I get the more i build some things out of wood instead. Often because it is just quicker.

Two pieces of 2x4 glued & screwed to make a tee, then glued and screwed to a plywood base plate. You would then screw a piece of 1/4” x 1 1/2” aluminum flat bar with a 7/8“ hole. This set up would be plenty rigid as long as the aluminum did not extend too far off of the tee. Of course you would need to use a die nut both top and bottom.

JM

[Conditor22]

poppy, the problem with using a press as a powder stand is you can only do the outside row of cases it you use a loading block

[fcvan]

I broke a Lee Reloader press frame and just ordered a new base. The back half of the press separated. I still have mt Reloader on my portable bench (think Black and Decker workmate) and use it mostly for de-priming brass. I hate all the gunk associated with that getting into my Turret press, so I de-prime, wash, and then size before tumbling. I also use the Reloader as a powder measure stand. I will check through my stuff and see if I still have the broken base.

As far as a previous post regarding not being able to charge but the outside edge of a loading block, I use the auto disk for pistol, and the other powder measure for rifle. Easier to weigh individual charge weights for the rifle. In either use, all of my cases are charged before going into the loading block. Just how I have always done it, it works for me. I have a buddy who charges his cases using a flat bar he made to extend from his press far enough to charge his brass in the block. No welding, just drilling and tapping. It works for him.

[poppy42]

I broke a Lee Reloader press frame and just ordered a new base. The back half of the press separated. I still have mt Reloader on my portable bench (think Black and Decker workmate) and use it mostly for de-priming brass. I hate all the gunk associated with that getting into my Turret press, so I de-prime, wash, and then size before tumbling. I also use the Reloader as a powder measure stand. I will check through my stuff and see if I still have the broken base.

As far as a previous post regarding not being able to charge but the outside edge of a loading block, I use the auto disk for pistol, and the other powder measure for rifle. Easier to weigh individual charge weights for the rifle. In either use, all of my cases are charged before going into the loading block. Just how I have always done it, it works for me. I have a buddy who charges his cases using a flat bar he made to extend from his press far enough to charge his brass in the block. No welding, just drilling and tapping. It works for him.

fcvan,
That would be great. I’d appreciate it. And as for the previous post about the reloading block, I never charge cases from reloading block anyway I do them individually. I always thought, Especially with larger Bottleneck cases were you can’t get a real good look inside easily, it would be too easy to double charge one when using a loading block. I guess it just gets down to a personal preference like you that’s the way I’ve always done it and if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Anyway like I said I appreciate it hopefully you’ll be able to find it someplace and didn’t toss it yet.
Thanks again,
Poppy42