BS plate lube works great, but...

[Marlin Junky]

It gives me a headache. Is there anything else out there that will do the trick that's easier on the nose? There's no way I can go back to a #2 pencil after using BSPL.

Thanks,
MJ

[mainiac]

soap-stone. any welding place will have some.

[Ricochet]

There's an interesting idea.

[mooman76]

I used WD40 or years before trying BP lube and it always worked good for me.

[Marlin Junky]

I think I'm going to try Jojoba oil next time.

MJ

[randyrat]

Did you use too much? I never noticed any smell or smoke using BS sprue lube. I put it on with a Q-tip and then wipe it off with a clean Q-tip never any problem. You are talking about using it on your molds right? Next choice would be "Permatex high temp anti seize" Carefull not to get it inside the cavities as you probably know already.

[Marlin Junky]

Did you use too much? I never noticed any smell or smoke using BS sprue lube. I put it on with a Q-tip and then wipe it off with a clean Q-tip never any problem. You are talking about using it on your molds right? Next choice would be "Permatex high temp anti seize" Carefull not to get it inside the cavities as you probably know already.

I've got very sensitive sinuses but I may be using it too liberally. I swab it all over the mold to keep lead from sticking and each time I start to get a few too many flecks of lead on top of the mold blocks, I wipe those down with a damp Q-tip. I ladle pour only with Rowell ladles so lead splatters can get a bit messy but consistent bullets is what the game is all about and the Rowells are faster than the RCBS ladle too. Thanks for the Permatex tip. Where's the best place to find it?

MJ

[crabo]

Auto parts stores

[leadeye]

The only thing I can smell in the lube is Stoddard Solvent which it is probably cut in. This should evaporate after a while leaving the lube film on the mold. You might try lubing and then leaving the molds sit out a while before using.

[DLCTEX]

I am sensitive to most any airborne odor, but have not been bothered at all by bullplate. Possibly you are applying too much. I use so little the Q-tip is almost dry and apply it to a hot mold. The surface of the mold takes on a slightly damp appearence. Also while casting I use a fan to move any fumes away in a ventilated area.

[randyrat]

Yes, I cover less than 1/2 of the tip of a Qtip and that has to be wiped off with a clean Q-tip. Thats for the whole mold and sprue plate. I'm thinking this last about 1000 bullets at least.

[Marlin Junky]

randyrat,

What temperature do you set your furnace at? I'm also wondering if I cast faster than you 'cause if I don't reapply BPL after every 50 or so bullets, I start to get small traces of lead on the block tops... which fortunately don't stick. I wish I could figure out how to keep the tiny traces of alloy off the block tops but it could be the result of swinging the sprue plate open too soon. What I ought to do is always cast with a pair of DC molds... perhaps I need to buy another SAECO 352! (I'm pretty sure I already have an extra set of SAECO handles) :-D It seems like the build up is a function of the quality of the surface finish too. My later manufacture RCBS molds are pretty rough on the block tops and the small traces of lead accumulate a lot sooner than with molds having smooth finishes. I have an Xacto knife sitting on the casting bench to flick off the specs of lead as they accumulate and am wondering if there might be some kind of small brush that'll work better. I'm not even going to try something like a toothbrush 'cause of the heat... isn't blue-hot metal about 500F?

MJ

[crabo]

Marlin, read BruceB's speedcasting article. It speeds up a two cavity where you don't need to use 2 molds.

[Marlin Junky]

Marlin, read BruceB's speedcasting article. It speeds up a two cavity where you don't need to use 2 molds.

Is water involved?

MJ