Reloading for 300 savage 99

[Rollins]

Hi there guys,not sure if this is the right spot or not but since it involves the evil J word projectiles I didnt want to ask in the main forums.

My dad has a lever action savage 90 not sure what year it is, but the old style with the rotary mag and bullet counter. It's at my brothers house in the UP, so cant go look.

Anyway dad suddenly he got the itch to shoot it but at 2plus bucks a pop (if you can even find it) he asked my to reload it. So he bought the dies and I said I'd load for him.

I figured I would use 150 grain round nose speer hot core bullets as i got some on sale and being a close ranged lever gun I dont plan to push hard I figure spire point boat tail is overkill.

However it seems loading data is a bit limited and my lyman 50th book only lists a few loads.

It lists a 150 grn spire point, and 180 grn round nose. So I am wondering should I use the load for the 150 or 180?

Besides the slight differences in max powder, the oal is different. The 150 says 2.600 and the 180 rn say 2.560.

I was thinking to use the 2.560 as oal since round nose dont taper and I dont want over pressure. But I also don't want to have the bullet pushed to far back in the case.

The other consideration is the savage 99 magazine length which I have heard is a limiting factor in length.

I did measure an old cartridge he had laying around(spire point) and it's oal is 2.40
Interestingly enough if load my speer 150s to oal of 2.40 also, it looks like the cannulure will match up with the case.

Anybody load for the 300 savage lever guns and could point me in the right direction?

Thanks.

[Dan Cash]

Don't try to get exotic. Load your 150s to the 2.4 length and be happy. I find 165 grain spier point bullets work best in my 99. Can't say how long but what ever works through the magazine.

[Rollins]

Thanks, I'm still new to reloading so I just follow the book, but in this case there wasnt an exact bullet style and weight to match mine.

So I thought id ask to get second opinion.I was kinda worried if I seated the bullet to deep in the case id have problems.

[PHyrbird]

Try Ken Waters Petloads article, it's good....

& http://ataleoftwothirties.com/?p=1026

& try the New Hornady Monoflex .308 in 160g.

[Norske]

I agree with the Ken Waters recommendation in his "Pet Loads" book (s). If your loading manual used a Savage bolt action to develop their loads, reduce the top load by at least 10%! In a 99, I use 40 gr IMR 4064 for excellent results with a Hornady 150 SST. If you load 44 gr of that powder, you will find the Savage 110 with its big front-locking bolt is much stronger than the rear-locking 99. You will get stretched cases and very short case life with 44 gr IMR4064 in a 99 with the rotary magazine. The later models, the longer ones with a box magazine for 308 class cartridges, are heavier and heat treated better to handle the higher pressures of the 243, 308, and 358.

[Scott.M]

Skip'em both and load up some 130gr TTSX bullets. At around 3k they really knock the wet off of stuff.

43grs of H4895 with 130gr TTSX in a 99, and 44.5 in a bolt action.

150gr use 39 or so grains of the same powder

[Drm50]

I been using Speer 130gr HP in 300Sav for years/ IMR-4895. Before I used a Rem 170gr RN, same one Rem used in factory loads. The discontinued it’s sale years ago. I have no 99 in 300sav only a Rem 81.

[Rollins]

Thanks guys. I will keep an eye out for the 130gr TTSX and read the pet load link.

I am confused about reducing 10 percent though. I have varget powder and the min listed for a 150 is 38 grns, and a max of 42.

So if I reduce the max by 10%, or 4.2 grains, it is below the mins.

My plan was to start at 38 grns varget and work up at half grain up to 40. And then narrow down from there in 10s of a grain.

[06ackley]

Ive been using the nosler 125gr accubond with Rl 7 powder. Knocks the snot out of deer and very accurate in my 99.

[Rollins]

What oal are you guys using?

[gnoahhh]

38 grains of Varget or 4064 + any old 150 grain bullet in your .300 99 and call it a day. That's how I treat my .300's and life has been good. 'Tain't rocket science- just don't dance around the high end of things and good case life and accuracy will be certain, not to mention darned efficient when it comes to killing deer. Been using 38 grains 4064 since Reagan was in office, and never any need to vary it with all the 99's owned between my late Dad and I.

As for OAL, that'll be determined by whatever bullet you use. If it's short enough to feed through the rotor and into the chamber you'll be good to go.

[OverMax]

Being Grandpa is likely a Yooper hunter. And I in Minnesota. That makes us neighbors and quite proficient in the woods. So here's my preference's for use:
IMR 3031 @ 37.3 grs tipped w/a 170 gr FP shoots well. As does IMR 4320 @ 42.0 grs tipped w/a 150 gr PSP.
As for brass. When times got tough and there wasn't much brass available I've made 300 brass from 308 and I actually liked such trimmed brass better than factory 300 Sav brass. Good Luck with your endeavor to help Gramps out.

[Texas by God]

The .300 Savage works just fine with standard cup and core bullets. You can safely use the 150 gr bullet with data for the 180 gr bullet but not vice versa. On my 99 Savage .300, I had to full length size the brass for good function as it had a generous factory chamber. My custom 98 Mauser and Remington 81s in .300 were more forgiving.

[Rollins]

Thanks guys. I'll seat them to Oal of the 2.4 as suggested and see what happens. Sadly since the rifle isn't with me I cant make a dummy round and and keep playing with it until it cycles well.

I was just worried if I seated for OAL of 2.4 it might do something with pressures. I don't know enough to know when to adjust different than the book.

I plan to keep it a grain or 2 under the max load for case life and gun wear etc. Basically a souped up 30-30 brush gun type deal.

Dad is a troll lol we all grew up in mid michigan(the ugly middle part lol) but older bro moved up to the UP. His kids are yoopers though

Brother took the rifle since up there he can use it. Down here is shotguns and muzzle loaders. Though they did let some select calibers recently. Which is why I also have a 450 bushmaster I use when I am back in MI for deer. Hits them like a hammer. One day i would like to cast some boolits for it.

[ulav8r]

Not having the gun in hand, you should not load any rounds. You do not know the condition of the chamber or it's size. You need the gun to check your first load for fit. The first load should be at the low end of recommended data and tried for cycling through the action before firing it. If cycling and first firing goes well, then start further development.

It would be disappointing to make up a box full of cartridges, give them to your dad and have them not work or damage his gun because of issues with the gun, dies, or your loads.

[Walks]

I think Hornady makes a 150gr bullet specifically for the .300 Savage. I think it's a SST, for the lower velocities of the .300Sav.
Check their latest Manual if you can.

[ericp]

Handloader magazine ran an article about loading the 300 Savage a couple of years ago, a bit of digging may turn it up.


Eric

[Norske]

Midsouth has blems of that 300 Savage 150 on sale now.
Please pay attention to the firearm used in any data you reference, including the Waters article mentioned. That was in a Remington bolt action. Your 99 isn't that strong, your 99 isn't that strong! Do not use max bolt loads in your rifle. The SAAMI pressure limit for the 300Sav is just under 53,000 psi (308Win is 62,000 psi), and one long article I read claimed Winchester loaded their factory ammunition only to 46,000 psi.
The most comprehensive Savage 99 forum I ever found was in www.24hourcampfire.com. You will hate the ads unless you have a popup blocker, but the Savage info is great.

[Scott.M]

CC work, but it's hard to not like the speed and accuracy of the 130gr TTSX. It shoots lights out in several 300 Savage rifles.

Any SAAMI reloading data for the 300 Savage is safe in a 99, period.

[Scott.M]

Thanks guys. I will keep an eye out for the 130gr TTSX and read the pet load link.

I am confused about reducing 10 percent though. I have varget powder and the min listed for a 150 is 38 grns, and a max of 42.

So if I reduce the max by 10%, or 4.2 grains, it is below the mins.

My plan was to start at 38 grns varget and work up at half grain up to 40. And then narrow down from there in 10s of a grain.



Don't worry about it, start with the starting loads if that makes you comfortable, I always start between min and max.

Lots of over complicated posts here. It seems many folks enjoy complicating simple tasks. Rock on and have fun.

[Texas by God]

Not having the gun in hand, you should not load any rounds. You do not know the condition of the chamber or it's size. You need the gun to check your first load for fit. The first load should be at the low end of recommended data and tried for cycling through the action before firing it. If cycling and first firing goes well, then start further development.

It would be disappointing to make up a box full of cartridges, give them to your dad and have them not work or damage his gun because of issues with the gun, dies, or your loads.^^^^100% This^^^^^^^

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[MostlyLeverGuns]

There are a couple variables with the Savage 99 and the 300 Savage cartridge. Rifles produced after about 1954 have a .308 Win magazine that allows a longer OAL and simplifies concerns over length. The savage 99 .300's that shoot a lot, both short action - 2.6 or less magazine, and the more modern with 2.78 magazines, all have very long throats so cartridge length is normally based on what will feed through a magazine... and eject when not fired. I have a 99 .300 that will feed a longer cartridge than it would eject. I notched the receiver where the bullet would hit for full-function. I have owned this rifle since the 70's, and it was not a 'collector' even then but it will shoot 1.5 MOA for 10 shots with 150 Hornady spire points and 4064 or Varget. I have shot many antelope and deer with it. I would use the rifle to determine actual maximum cartridge length, seating your chosen bullet deeper until all feed smoothly from the magazine. This older rifle takes a 2.6 inch cartridge in the magazine, so 2.55" would probably work. clearing the receiver when ejecting a loaded cartridge is something to be checked. In my newer '308 action' Savage 99's I get 2500 fps with a Nosler 180 Partition and RLDR 15 and excellent accuracy, about the same as my .308 Savage 99's. I use Redding Competition shellholders to prevent oversizing cases and extending case length considerably. The a Savage 99 in .300 is still a very useful hunting rifle and certainly as good or better than the 6.6 Creedmoor at honest hunting ranges or if elk are part of the plan.

I would not load cartridges for a rifle I could not test personally.

[Norske]

When you test your handloads for accuracy, here's a couple tips. First remove the fore end to make sure the tenon (the round plug at the rear of the fore end) doesn't bind in the receiver. Secondly, don't rest the fore end on a hard rest. That would be like resting the barrel on a hard rest. Either rest the receiver on the sand bag or use a soft rest like a rolled up sleeping bag. Both I and my range's chief safety officer (he owns a 1972 Savage 99 in 250 Savage) have learned this.

[gnoahhh]

If a 99 shoots better with the receiver resting on the sand bag, then there's something amiss with the fore arm bedding. POI will be different too, when field shooting with gun held normally after sighting in with the receiver on the bag, if somethings off with the bedding.

[Norske]

My 1952-vintage 99 EG's fore arm is screwed to the barrel.

[dragon813gt]

This thread has me really confused. You guys are making it seem like the 300 Savage is hard to load for and the published loads aren’t safe. This couldn’t be dirty from the truth, especially w/ jacketed bullets. Load them so they function in your rifle w/ a published load and you’re good to go. It’s really that simple.

One of the first guns I loaded for was my 99 EG. Grandfather helped me along but basically said exactly what I said above. I still have the rifle, my eyes and all my digits a couple decades later. I also have a lot of 99s and a bunch of them are chambered in 300 Savage. It’s not a hard rifle to load for.

[richhodg66]

Just for what it's worth, the .300 Savage works well with cast bullets too. My 99 EG in .300 shot the 311041 well when I used it to deer hunt a few years ago, the short neck problems everybody talks about seem more academic than real.

[Three44s]

The Savage 99 in 300 Savage is not hard to load for, but no gun should ever be loaded for without the gun being on site with the person loading for it.

From minute one I need ANY gun I am loading for, period!

I take the bullet and case, place my first powder charge, seat the bullet and find the seating depth that matches the lands. Note that! Next I will seat the bullet deeper, the amount depending on what gun and the desired use of what cartridge. Then I check the magazine limitations if any and seat to that restriction.

All this before I ever fire a single round. All done outside with gun pointed in a safe direction in case I were to get an accidental discharge!

Start at the minimum and gradually work up! Do not load to far ahead. I like to load up to the middle of the charge range (between the start and maximum) and the fire those various charges from the start towards the middle charges.

I am lucky because I literally shoot right out my back door but the price of being hasty because of difficulty getting to a range is what it is.

Three44s

[Kosh75287]

Lots of over complicated posts here. It seems many folks enjoy complicating simple tasks. Rock on and have fun.

I'm afraid I'll add to this with one other consideration/suggestion. I don't know your Father's physical condition, nor if he might have developed a lowered tolerance for recoil over the years. If he has, and desires a load that is more in the .30-30 Winchester - .30-40 Krag spectrum of performance, consult Hodgdon about some SLIGHTLY reduced loads for .300 Savage, using H4895. Hodgdon touts this propellant as being able to tolerate "underloading" by as much as 40% of the maximum charge in each bullet weight (though this may require the use of cast projectiles, which is STILL no biggy).
Their "max" load for a 150 gr. projectile is 40.0/H4895, which delivers ~2400 f/s (already in the spectrum I mentioned). BUT (and I would consult Hodgdon for confirmation), you SHOULD be able to start with 24.0/H4895/150 (CAST! Until you know different.) And work up to whatever you want.
The Hodgdon starting load for .300 Savage is 37.0/H4895/150 J-word, and gives ~ 2190 f/s, which is about what a .30-30 will do from a carbine.
The only "fly in the ointment" I see is that Hodgdon uses an overall length of 2.520", which is 5% over the 2.400" length mentioned in other posts. I SURMISE that, at starting loads, the difference in O.A.L.s will elevate pressures (and, perhaps, velocities) A LITTLE, but not enough to exceed SAAMI max for the round. But ask Hodgdon about this, also. Just explain to them that you're a relatively inexperienced reloader, and tell them what you are trying to do. I'm betting you'll find them very thorough and immensely helpful with ANY questions you have about this project (which sounds like a really GOOD one!).

[gnoahhh]

My 1952-vintage 99 EG's fore arm is screwed to the barrel.

As it should be! An old trick to cure bedding issues related to poor/erratic accuracy is to intersperse a rubber o-ring over the screw to isolate the wood from the barrel.

[Swamp Fox]

I’ve been working up a load for 300 savage too. For hunting I’m planning on using 150 grn nosler partitions, but I’ve also shot core lokt with good results. I may try some 130 grain bullets, as I’ve seen them recommended in several places. Honestly, in three or for powders, and different bullet combinations it seems to like most anything you give it. At least mine has. My best luck has been with varget, which I think you mentioned having. My only problem with it right now is that nobody has any in stock. I use a decent bit of it, but am running low. I hate using something I can’t replace. I’ve also had good luck with IMR4895, and 3031.


It really doesn’t seem to be a hard round to load for, but I wouldn’t do much without the rifle in hand.

[kaiser]

I currently own a 1952 vintage 99 in a 300 Savage. I also own a 1899 in a 30/30 and did not ever measure either magazine, but always check my loaded rounds that they will feed and eject before use. (MLG, thanks for the info on the magazine length!) My two favorite (read accurate) powders with 150gr bullets for my particular rifle are AA2520 and RL12. I've owned a Remington 722 in the same caliber, but not at the same time, and let the Remington go to my brother. I've owned several 99's over the years in various calibers and always loaded them down from the maximum loads listed in any of the manuals due to their designs. Because of the (mentioned) brass stretch problem caused by the rear lock up of its bolt, brass does not last long if approaching maximum pressures.

Most of the older manuals list the Savage 99 as the test gun for their data for the "300", as they did for other such "oldies" as the 250/3000. My 99, for some reason, likes the 150SBT from Sierra better than any other make or design bullet for accuracy. While the lighter weight bullets can be driven faster, the .300Sav makes for an easy shooting cartridge in the 99 at about 2600fps with less recoil than even the .308. The Remington 722 could be loaded up close to .308 velocities, but my thinking was, why bother when .308 brass is so much easier to obtain than the .300 Savage. (I do miss that rifle, but my bother shows it to me every time I visit LOL.) I have not had a problem getting .300 Savage brass until the "virus" hit, which limited gun show access; but will try the resizing techniques outlined on this site if it becomes a problem.

If you find the bullet and powder (medium burn works the best) your 99 likes, you'll have a winning combination in a "classy" rifle that you will enjoy shooting; remembering its previous owner makes it "priceless". You certainly don't need to "hot rod" any loadings for it to be as effective on the game you're after than say a .308 or an '06 at normal hunting distances. My .02

[Norske]

There are You tube videos showing how to shorten 308 brass so it will fit a 300 Savage resizing die (besides a power trimmer). Once shortened, sizing the brass down to 300 Savage requires good lubricant, but is easy.

[dragon813gt]

I’m 99% certain I formed LC 308 brass in a 300 Savage F/L sizing die and then trimmed to final length. It’s been years since I formed any. But I don’t remember trimming first. Did have to use a small base due to get them to feed and chamber properly.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Loading the 300 Savage is not particularly tricky, but as I and many others have said, having the rifle available for initial load developmwnt is important. Cutting off LC or other .308 brass is a simple way to get good brass for the 300 Savage. I have not found any problems in more than a dozen 'long and short' magazine 99's in 300 Savage when 308 brass ( mostly LC) was simply shortened and of course sized for the .300. I have not found Neck reaming necessary in any Savage 99 300's, old or recent. I've used RLDR 15, 2520, Varget, IMR 4064, H4895, IMR 4895, BL-C2 and others without any problems. With jacketed 125, 150, 180 grain and 311413, 311332, RCBS 150 GC FN, Matt's .310 185gr pointed bullet, others with good results. Again the .300 Savage is not HARD to load - YOU NEED the RIFLE to get it right.

[Three44s]

Thanks, I'm still new to reloading so I just follow the book, but in this case there wasnt an exact bullet style and weight to match mine.

So I thought id ask to get second opinion.I was kinda worried if I seated the bullet to deep in the case id have problems.

Sadly, the OP has “left the building” as his latest visit was the 29 th of September.

He’s a newbie trying to load for a rifle that is not at his disposal.

FOOLISH!

Best regards

Three44s

[FergusonTO35]

I use .300 Savage load data in my Browning BLR .308. 37 grains of 4895 or 4064 under a 180 grain Winchester Power Point is lotsa fun and accurate.

[Rollins]

Thanks for all the help guys. Sorry for the late response we were not able to go up the weekend we planned on. And then I got sick(not the rona).

Work called and i was supposed to leave the country and had to get ready in a few days but then got pushed back into next week time frame so was busy with that and trying to get everything else squared away. I meant to respond sooner but kept forgetting.

So sadly it will probably have to wait until I get back from my next work deployment. I am saving all the responses here as it is some great info.

I do have one question though, it seems the consensus is that it would be dangerous to make rounds for a gun i dont have. I get that of i was pushing more power or trying to max it out. But of I am staying at low to mid power and doing it by the book for weights and OAL etc, shouldn't it be safe?

I mean how is it different than just buying off the shelf 300 savage rounds? The gun is in good condition and i talked to my brother, he actually had some 300 savage rounds he bought last year and shot a few, gun worked fine.

[Texas by God]

The concern was not about the safety of the loads, just the fact that they might not FIT the chamber or magazine correctly. If the gun is in hand when you seat the first bullet, you find out right then if all is well. All dies and all chambers and all magazines are not the same. It just flat stinks to load 50 rounds for a distant gun to later find it hard to squeeze them in.

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[ulav8r]

The concern was not about the safety of the loads, just the fact that they might not FIT the chamber or magazine correctly. If the gun is in hand when you seat the first bullet, you find out right then if all is well. All dies and all chambers and all magazines are not the same. It just flat stinks to load 50 rounds for a distant gun to later find it hard to squeeze them in.

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Perzactly.