S&W Model 10-5: tips getting the side plate off?

[VariableRecall]

I've got a used Smith and Wesson Model 10-5 off of Gunbroker from around 1969. The finish is badly worn in places but the internals are sweet! Feels like almost new on the inside. Considering that it's a used revolver, I'm doing my best to cover all my bases regarding its condition in all aspects.


I've attempted to get the sideplate off to replace the lubricant in the hammer and other internals but it's fast shut. The screws come out just fine, including the main-spring. I've noted this small spot of rust on the border between the side plate and the frame itself. Could this be the culprit of the sticky sideplate?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=267934&d=1600459173

I've tried firm blows with a silicone padded screwdriver grip, but the plates holds fast.

As I've been putting larger amounts of lubricant into accessible parts of the internals. When I dry-fire with snap caps, lubricant leaks out of the side plate towards the cylinder and nearby the yoke screw, and carries out a sizable amount of gunk with it that I wipe off with a swab pad.

I'd rather take this issue to a gunsmith, and I do NOT want to attempt to pry this off with a screwdriver obviously.

Is there any way I can upload larger attachments that can fit in for more details? I'm just glad my sideplate image managed to get here.

[Groo]

Groo here
Hold the frame in one hand, take a plastic screwdriver , soft faced hammer , or a bar of lead [1lb or more] and tap the frame just off the side plate.
This make several raps, take your time,
The sideplate is a hand fit item and may take time.....

[jimb16]

Plastic or brass tap hammers are best for that kind of work. I agree with tapping the side of the back strap. Should loosen it up with a couple dozen light raps.

[VariableRecall]

Groo here
Hold the frame in one hand, take a plastic screwdriver , soft faced hammer , or a bar of lead [1lb or more] and tap the frame just off the side plate.
This make several raps, take your time,
The sideplate is a hand fit item and may take time.....

I do intend to take my time with that. One thing of note is that the Gun Shop that the piece came from was in Florida. Humidity may have actually sealed it in, I fear.

Next time put some more lubricant through the inside, I'll give bonking the sideplate a try once again I don't have any lead handy but I'll try bonking harder. It's only plastic compared to blued steel!

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Slightly different technique--(assuming you're right handed) remove the grips, remove the 4 side plate screws hold the revolver with the cylinder closed in your left hand, tilt the revolver to the right to about 2 o'clock, lightly smack the right side of the grip frame with a wooden hammer handle. The plate will fall off, or at least come out far enough for you to get your fingers under it and pull it off. Have a pad of some sort on your bench top for the side plate to fall onto.

Note: Pay attention to which screw comes out of which hole, as they are not all the same length. Do not remove the screw on the bottom of the frame in front of the trigger guard, as it has nothing to do with the side plate, and is what (with an internal spring) controls the cylinder bolt stop. When you reinstall the side plate gently fit and tap it back into place, because a Groo noted they were hand fit.

[ReloaderFred]

Don't strike the side plate!!! You want to strike the grip frame below the side plate, which in effect moves the frame away from the side plate. Like Groo said, you hold the frame in one hand, and strike the grip frame from the same side the side plate is on. I always used the hard plastic handle of a screw driver when I was the armorer for our department, and they always came off. A small plastic tipped mallet will also work.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[Phineas Bluster]

VariableRecal,

Generally, when I get items in that condition, I toss the items into a bucket of kerosene for a week or two. Give the kerosene plenty of time to work its way into all the cracks, crevices, and rust. Be patient, sometimes takes a while but it beats marred screws and scarred surfaces.

PB

[VariableRecall]

VariableRecal,

Generally, when I get items in that condition, I toss the items into a bucket of kerosene for a week or two. Give the kerosene plenty of time to work its way into all the cracks, crevices, and rust.
PB

I don't have any kerosene handy, but I've given the thing plenty of cleaning with solvent followed by lubricant. I wipe the thing down with a paper towel or swab before putting it away to ensure as few of my hand oils get on it. As far as I know the rust is under control.

I've got a feeling that the previous owner might have used the revolver for Everyday Carry, but shot it little. I can still see the distinct impressions of the cartridges right behind the cylinder. I'd assume the area with the finish completely off was caused by a button on their holster sliding directly against the metal. The Nylon holster I've got only has direct contact with foam and fabric, well protected from the button that keeps it in place.

Could I find Kerosene at a hardware store? I'd want to purchase as little as possible if I can help it.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Shouldn't be a problem to find kerosene. The hardware store will likely have it. The kind you'll find there is clear, and usually used now days as a fuel for portable heaters. Kind of expensive, but one gallon will last most shop enthusiasts a couple of years.

[VariableRecall]

Shouldn't be a problem to find kerosene. The hardware store will likely have it. The kind you'll find there is clear, and usually used now days as a fuel for portable heaters. Kind of expensive, but one gallon will last most shop enthusiasts a couple of years.

I live in an apartment with no garage, but I've got an exterior supply closet available for storage that's kinda full. Not delighted to get kerosene fumes anywhere in my apartment so If I need some I'm going to probably limit the amount that I use so that I have less to store as well.

Would purchasing a smaller amount (A quart) and immersing the piece in a plastic bag filled with ample kerosene, like a marinated steak, be a reasonable strategy?

Obviously I should re-lubricate everything immediately after it dries, am I correct?

[tazman]

Kroil is your friend for things like this. Spray it liberally and allow it to soak. It may fall off easily after that.
Kroil will work it's way into the space between the frame and side[late even though it looks like there isn't any space there. It will soften and help loosen all the crud and rust in there.
I have used it on auto wheel lug bolts that were rusted solid for years and after treatment with Kroil, they spin right off.

[Mk42gunner]

Shouldn't need kerosene for that, it doesn't really look that bad. As mentioned take out all that side plate screws then rap the grip frame with something non marring.

When I went to Law Enforcement Armorer's school back in the dark ages, we used a piece of Babbitt material about 3/4" diameter x six inches long.

Robert

Be advised, when the sideplate comes off the hammer block will fall out.

R

[Bazoo]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NhUHVcVb_V0

[VariableRecall]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NhUHVcVb_V0

Thanks for the video! I'll try that out when I get the chance

[Cosmic_Charlie]

I hold the revolver horizontal with the side plate facing down. Then I tap the side of the grip frame from below. Also works for getting the side plate back on by holding it side plate facing up. Using properly fitted screw drivers and this tapping method you can do this and leave no evidence that the side plate was removed.

[William Yanda]

instead of stinky kerosene, try non scented lamp oil.

[Scott.M]

Kroil is your friend for things like this. Spray it liberally and allow it to soak. It may fall off easily after that.
Kroil will work it's way into the space between the frame and side[late even though it looks like there isn't any space there. It will soften and help loosen all the crud and rust in there.
I have used it on auto wheel lug bolts that were rusted solid for years and after treatment with Kroil, they spin right off.


Agreed. Kroil is king for many things.

[Rich/WIS]

Wouldn't hurt to spray the Kroil or whatever penetrant you're using inside as well, work at the plate from both sides. Will also loosen the gunk that has built up inside the action and make cleaning easier.

[VariableRecall]

Wouldn't hurt to spray the Kroil or whatever penetrant you're using inside as well, work at the plate from both sides. Will also loosen the gunk that has built up inside the action and make cleaning easier.

I'm not exactly sure what Kroil is. If you could grab an Amazon listing for it, that would be nice. I'd rather not get the wrong product if I don't know what I'm looking for. The timing and action on the revolver are just fine, I just want to make sure the side plate gets the attention that it deserves.

Once it's off, I'm planning on wiping down the edges with solvent, like the rest of the revolver, then coating the edges gently with lubricant to protect it in the future.

[jonp]

Kroil works great for this but WD Penetrating Oil also is a wonder. Spray it down, let it sit and along with the others advice do not strike the side plate. Lead, rawhide hammer will work on this. Take your time and if it doesn't move, lube some more. You might take the grips off and heat it in a toaster oven to warm but not bake it. This will help the lube work its way in.

[Jniedbalski]

I would never do WD40. He is talking about Wd 40 brand of penetrating oil. It’s good stuff but ed’s red works just as good.

[tazman]

I'm not exactly sure what Kroil is. If you could grab an Amazon listing for it, that would be nice. I'd rather not get the wrong product if I don't know what I'm looking for. The timing and action on the revolver are just fine, I just want to make sure the side plate gets the attention that it deserves.

Once it's off, I'm planning on wiping down the edges with solvent, like the rest of the revolver, then coating the edges gently with lubricant to protect it in the future.

Do a search for Kroil where to buy on google. It is the stuff in the orange and white can. It comes in both spray and bulk cans.
Here is a link.
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk011CB24TQfUQfhLSFPn60krzDRYuw%3A 1600563378514&source=hp&ei=sqhmX9T-HMjVtAafsLTQDQ&q=kroil+where+to+buy&oq=kroil&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQARgDMgUIABCxAzICCAAyAggAMgIIADI CCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADoECCMQJzoFCC4QkQI6D gguELEDEIMBEMcBEKMCOgUILhCxAzoLCC4QsQMQxwEQowI6Cwg uELEDEJECEJMCOgUIABCRAjoICAAQsQMQgwE6AgguOg4ILhCxA xDHARCjAhCTAjoICC4QxwEQrwE6CAguELEDEIMBOgUIABCSA1C tBVjTEWCpNGgAcAB4AIABhwGIAYwEkgEDMy4ymAEAoAEBqgEHZ 3dzLXdpeg&sclient=psy-ab

[Bazoo]

I've used wd40 on guns and it does okay for cleaning. Bout like remoil.

[Speedo66]

50-50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone is supposed to be the best penetrant.

[jaguarxk120]

Put the gun in a gallon sip-lock plastic bag. Then
spray down with what ever penetrating oil
you use, let set for a couple of days.
Then try to remove the side plate.

[VariableRecall]

I think that might just be what I try to do when I get the chance, and bonking it out of the revolver won't work.

[Bazoo]

If you try like what's in the video, and it don't work, try hitting it harder. A wooden hammer handle works best in my opinion.

[edp2k]

If the side plate is on there good and tight I would not try and mess with trying to get it off,
as your efforts might dig it up and the affect the side plate fit.
my recommendation:

1. get a metal ammo can, 30 cal would do but 50 would work better (more room to work in).
get a metal can from gun show or walmart, etc.

2. go to hardware store, walmart, farm store, etc, and buy a gallon (or 2 quarts)
each of acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid).

3. fill can about half way with 50% atf and 50% acetone.

4. strip gun of grips, wrap in cloth (to prevent scratches from ammo can) and put in can, submerged in atf+acetone mixture.

5. come back in a day or 2 or 3, put rubber glove on, reach into fluid and dry fire the gun a few dozen times.

6. if you feel like it, get a clean, used tooth brush and scrub under the extractor and around the cylinder and frame window.
gloves, safety glasses, and old clothes are a good idea here.

7. pull gun out, wipe off with paper towels, put grips back on, DONE.


A. the sealed ammo can contains any mess/spills and prevents vapors from getting out.
B. ATF+acetone is basically the best penetrant/gunk dissolver there is.
C. the can+fluid can be used going forward to clean up a cruddy gun.
D. ATF+acetone are 2 components of "Eds Red". the other common components are kerosene and "odorless mineral spirits"
and (optionally, not really needed) lanolin. you can also get kero and mineral spirits at the HW store, etc.
You could perform the above soak with Eds red and it would be even better with dissolving different kinds of crud.

[VariableRecall]

D. ATF+acetone are 2 components of "Eds Red". the other common components are kerosene and "odorless mineral spirits"


That's a smart move, but I have one really big problem here: I live in an apartment and my lease states that I should "abide by the following rules and regulations":

"No paints, oils, gasoline or any flammable or environmentally hazardous materials are permitted in the apartments or storage areas. Site manager will be informed of, and have approval over, oxygen tanks in units."

"Fireworks or explosives of any type are prohibited on the property. This includes apartment units, common areas, parking areas, lawns, entrances."

I have a can of Goof-Off in my supply closet, and some cooking spray in my place, but no one's ever kicked down my door to search for flammable materials. They did make an inspection of the premises and were pleased with it, earlier. Guess they didn't find the Goof Off.

I checked the regulations, and apparently smokeless powder is officially designated as a "Flammable", which still lies in the realm of hairspray and cooking oil.

How exactly do I ask my landlord about this? It looks to me like Kerosene and any other variant is out of the question.

[Mk42gunner]

Before you get too wound up thinking about a penetrating oil for this, take the side plate screws out and try hitting the grip frame with a hammer handle or something similar.

The sideplate is supposed to be tight, and is surprisingly weather proof. I have never seen one that wouldn't vibrate loose as long as the sideplate screws are out. As a matter of fact, when you reinstall it and realize when it is halfway down that you forgot to put the hammer block in, you will need to vibrate the side plate off.

Robert

[oneofsix]

I'm going to go against the grain here- leave the sideplate alone.
Your first post says the internals are sweet- leave them that way.
Use kroil or whatever penetrating oil you wish, then use compressed air in a can to blow it out( think can of air like for computers).
Then oil lightly with a good gun oil. Overdoing it with oil is bad too (drippy mess!).
Taking the sideplate off, someone has already mentioned, a piece will come out too. Then you'll be shopping for a smith to put it back together.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[VariableRecall]

I've managed to get the side plate off with no other trouble. I just bonked it in the right places for long enough and it came right off. Thank you for all the help!

[Bazoo]

Glad for you. Wasn't nearly as hard after having done it as it seemed to be huh?

[ddixie884]

The folks here know a lot of things. They will share that knowledge with fellow members and all is well most times......

[VariableRecall]

The folks here know a lot of things. They will share that knowledge with fellow members and all is well most times......

These Two Videos were the best help for strategies to get the side plate off:

https://youtu.be/4ujyLn3lHBc

I had specifically used this technique to loosen everything out of the frame. Glad i was ready to take hold of the hammer block and put it somewhere safe...
https://youtu.be/NhUHVcVb_V0

[JimB..]

Now look at it carefully as it doesn’t just drop back on.

The internals should be clean and have a coating of lubricant that you almost can’t see. I have a couple small paint brushes that I use for applying light oil.

[VariableRecall]

Now look at it carefully as it doesn’t just drop back on.

The internals should be clean and have a coating of lubricant that you almost can’t see. I have a couple small paint brushes that I use for applying light oil.

I've wiped down the internals with a swabbing cloth that I drizzled some oil onto and applied it both inside and out to the side-plate, as well. I also put a drop of oil onto the interior surfaces and spread it around with another swabbing cloth.

I had noticed the small piece of metal on the top of the side place, inserted it gently and pressed down by hand, inserted the screws in the right places, and walked them in a little bit at a time to make sure the whole plate came down as flush as possible.

I've actually got it off on two occasions, one for just a looksie, and the other to clean an especially dirty spot on the hole between the hand and the cylinder.

[Bazoo]

With the front screw out of the side plate, have you figured out you can remove the yoke and cylinder. No need to remove the side plate.

[VariableRecall]

With the front screw out of the side plate, have you figured out you can remove the yoke and cylinder. No need to remove the side plate.

Thankfully I already knew that. Figured it out when I first cleaned up the revolver for the first time On an unrelated note, is there a way to get the yoke off the frame with the cylinder still locked in place? If by some horrible measure the yoke screw disappeared (which it has not) will that yoke stay in place when the cylinder is closed?

[Bazoo]

Yoke and cylinder will stay put without the screw as long as the cylinder is locked in the frame. So if the screw fell out the gun would still fire in other words.

[VariableRecall]

Yoke and cylinder will stay put without the screw as long as the cylinder is locked in the frame. So if the screw fell out the gun would still fire in other words.

Just covering my bases, thanks for the tip!