old Remington BDL gloss finish

[farmbif]

does anyone know what the finish is that Remington used to produce glossy stocks and an equivalent product that can be used to replace it.

[HamGunner]

I really have no idea, but 4-5 coats of Tru-Oil should do the trick to give you a deep gloss finish that is very hard and durable similar to the Remington. I have always let it dry for at least a day between coats for best results and of course a light brush with 0000 steel wool in between coats.

[Winger Ed.]

The original stock on my 81 issue ADL 700 seemed like some sort of clear epoxy resin.
I'd figure if it was a varnish or polyurethane, the more aggressive solvents & bore cleaners would have attacked and dulled it.

That was always my guess.
It was harder than Chinese Algebra.

[rmcc]

It was a polyurethane with hardener. You can duplicate by using filler first, then coats of poly until you get the desired gloss. Make sure and get gloss and make sure it is exterior rated or it will weather check. Worked for me, anyway.

[rking22]

Found this on Remington society, google “Remington RKW finish” “ RKW was first used as a bowling pin coating. Something that could withstand the constant hammering of bowling balls, and the automatic pin setting machines. Pretty successful stuff. Nobody sells it to my knowledge. Mfg by Dupont.”

Basically auto clear coat with high solids should give you what you seek, will need to be buffed out.

[salpal48]

I was told that that finish was in Layman term ' "Liquid Plastic". At one time There was a Commercial product called by That name

[Winger Ed.]

Probably the toughest stuff you'll find would be the clear A & B fiberglass resin you can find at marine supply places
that have the stuff for refinishing and restoring boats. 'American Composites' is where I used to get my boat building stuff.

This IS NOT the same resin that comes in a can with the tube of hardener about the size of your thumb.
It's a half & half mix, and comes as a 'kit' with two equal size containers.

It's made to work on wooden boat things-- hulls, hand rails, etc, and be for what I call 'outside toys'.

A problem with automotive finishes- even the high end, modern generation ones is they can't expand and contract like wood does,
and will often pop off in places.

[Buddy]

I use Varathane products.

[too many things]

dont try on a used stock. unless you heat it
it will crack.

set the stock in sun and let it get warm
use the clear ACRICIC enamel NOT lacquer and do about 4 times. about every 2hrs be best to do inside of a window so a bug dont get in it

[Bad Ass Wallace]

I use 'Feast Watson' gloss wipe on poly. This is a very durable polyurethane finish. First take back to bare wood, apply 2 coats of 'Feast Watson' sanding sealer then 4 coats of wipe-on poly.

I used this method to refinish my 1885 Martini Henry and found some nice walnut under a 100 years of crud.

https://i.imgur.com/irOVKtr.jpg

[farmbif]

I was thinking of trying nason 2k urethane clear 401-20, its pretty tough stuff with hardener added and sprayed in several light coats out of HVLP gun. ive never had it crack or pop off of fiberglass outboard hoods.

[dverna]

I use 'Feast Watson' gloss wipe on poly. This is a very durable polyurethane finish. First take back to bare wood, apply 2 coats of 'Feast Watson' sanding sealer then 4 coats of wipe-on poly.

I used this method to refinish my 1885 Martini Henry and found some nice walnut under a 100 years of crud.

https://i.imgur.com/irOVKtr.jpg

Very nice BAW

[farmbif]

cerakote ceramic clear?

[Jniedbalski]

I was thinking of trying nason 2k urethane clear 401-20, its pretty tough stuff with hardener added and sprayed in several light coats out of HVLP gun. ive never had it crack or pop off of fiberglass outboard hoods.. I have used this clear before and it looks just like the old Polly clear finish used years ago. 28 years ago I did a custom 6.5 jap stock Using PPG car clear and hardner And still looks great today.