Mini Lathe Harbor Freight Question

[brstevns]

Are any of the Harbor Freight Mini Lathes capable of barrel threading?
Any books out there for using a Mini Lathe for Dummies?

[bangerjim]

Check out an Amazon search for "how to run a lathe". I have 3 of those books (from years go when I was learning in college) and the basics have not changed over the years!

To thread a barrel you would have to have a head stock bore large enough to pass the barrel thru it. A no-go on those LITTLE ChiCom toys you are talking about. They are for "semi-accurate" model making. I have one of them and a Sherline in my model shop, as well as 4 other lathes (large professional tool room style) in my main shop

HF appears to only have that tiny toy 8X12 lathe anymore. Years ago they offered big lathes that could do what you are talking about. You best bet is to watch for a used AMERICAN-made older lathe with sufficient head spindle thru-bore size for your barrel tasks.

You might be able to rig up a short pistol barrel between centers and thread it that way on that 8x12.

Check out Grizzly.com.....about the same lathes as HF had, only green! Their G0602Z may do what you want.

Good luck on your search.

bangerjim

[ascast]

You might take a look at Facebook market place. Here in CNY there are generally several for sale. You can not believe the sellers when they say "it's all there". Usually it was gramps, or dads for uncle willty's and they know nothing about it. It is generally more expensive in time and money to track down the parts to make it work than the cost of the lathe. If it's some way off brand , you may never find the stuff you need. good luck

[dragon813gt]

Grizzly is your best bet if you’re looking for a smaller lathe that won’t break the bank. Well the breaking the bank part is relative. You will always spend more on tooling then the lathe.

[Ozark mike]

Grizzly buys from china jus like hf ya have to get up to the 10x22 i believe before youll find one with a large enough head bore. They make one called a gunsmith lathe also but it is a little more expensive. The 10x22 starts at around 1500 for a non variable speed machine. I wouldnt recommend the varable speed machines cause they are just a dc brushed motor

[brstevns]

Well I am on a small SS income so the Habor Freights looked good. I can live without threading barrels, would like to have one for making swageing dies like the Lees and turning down rims on brass etc.

[Ozark mike]

Those smaller hf and griz like the 7x14 dont have enough meat to really be all that accurate dont expect em to be able to take a decent cut either if working with steel. Ya can make em a better lathe by lapping the ways with a Granite. Block and other fixer uppers jus dont expect to much out of the box

[Flailguy]

I personally went with an old usa lathe. it's a Logan 11x36 with a 1-3/8 bore. Got it on craigslist for $1,500 yesterday I changed my brakes on my pickup and naturally the rotors were about 1/2" too large in diameter or I would have turned them myself now I wish I had a bigger one.
I will say this lathe is one of the best purchases I've ever made, I absolutely love it, it opens up so many possibilities as far as what you can make instead of buy.

[Ozark mike]

Thats usually how it goes with lathes. Its said buy the largest one ya can afford. Besides lathes are cheap compared to all the tooling ya will need

[nwfdub]

Just buy the threaded barrel. Going to be cheaper.

Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk

[Traffer]

I have a Harbor Freight 7x10 mini lathe. The spindle bore is about 3/4" diameter But the chuck that it comes with has a smaller hole. It's only 5/8". However. It can be bored out to 3/4" also. Giving a spindle bore of 3/4" If the barrel is less than 3/4" diameter for the majority of the length, It can be threaded on this lathe.
As far as how to use lathes, The way people learn stuff like that nowadays is by watching youtube videos. There are hundreds if not thousands of videos on lathe operation. Some show a lot of stuff you can do on a mini lathe.
A mini lathe is a great piece of machinery. Don't let anyone mislead you. Even people who have bigger lathes along with their mini's still use them for lots of stuff. Here are a few of the youtube names that show mini lathe operation:
"The Aussie Shed"
"Steveodee stevehodee"
"Steve Jordan"
"Rotary SMP"
"TimNummy"
"Jan Binnendijk"
These are some that show simpler stuff. "they also show more complex"
You can just search "mini lathe" and find tons of stuff.
There are also groups on Face Book that share stuff. One is actually named "7x Mini Lathe"
PM me if you want more specific info.
One word of caution...
These things are ADDICTING. I have mine in my living room and use it every day.

[elmacgyver0]

I don't know about the 7 x 10 lathes but I have a HF 9 x 20.
It is not a bad lathe but there is no back gearing.
It does have a indicator for threading but has no way to slow it down enough to use it.
I made a hand crank to be able to thread.
It will make threads just fine but metric threads not SAE. I know, they claim it will do SAE but they lie.
It comes real close to SAE but no cigar.
So if you going to make dies, just make sure it does real SAE.
On something the length of a die body the error stacking adds up real quick.

[country gent]

I would look at something with a longer bed and bigger swing spindle bore. The harbor freight minis are okay for small work like cutting rims and small jobs but Several issues with them ( I have a 7 x 12) change gears got feeds and threads, the cover is bolted on not easy open. The short bed dosnt leave a lot of room for tools cutters and work. Mine is under powered no real power tapping or drilling with out pilot holes working up. With the bed length even the 12" with a drill chuck ( 3" roughly) the chuck (another 3-4 2-3" of piece sticking out of chuck to indicate there isnt a lot or room left for drills or taps. Another is the tail stock has to be removed from bed to adjust for tapers or to set to straight. For wildcatting and modifying cartridge cases they do good. Tooling isnt to expensive but finding the smaller stuff is harder.

I would recommend looking for a good used machine in the 10-12" swing range with a 24-40" between centers bed. Atlas clausing monarch logan sheldon jet grizzly and many others have made machines is this size range. Watch school shops for used machines. A lot of schools had clausing delta rockwells and sheldons. The Sheldons are a real sleeper.
Big lathes rarely bring as much but moving expenses are a lot more. And all is heaver requiring more work to use it. Also more space A 18 x 96 lathe is a lot of room and work to move tail stocks and carriages. Chucks are much heavier than the smaller machines.

A decent used machine may also come with most of the tooling in the deal. This is a big plus as was said tooling runs more than the machines.

[indian joe]

I have three lathes in my workshop
1) started with an ancient Nuttal - flat belt drive - 40" between centres - inch and an eighth spindle - plain bearing head - only came with a big old 4 jaw chuck - (that was a blessing in disguise - it forced me to learn to set stuff up properly - EVERY time I used it) 1100bucks and hauled it home from an auction 3 hours away. coulda shoulda woulda spent 3K and had a nice new chinese machine - but the old girl earned its way doing farm repairs - sits in another shed setup specifically to wind three foot coils for another business I do
2) bought a small chinese machine (they dont make these anymore) its only good for light work but is a long bed 700mm between centres (I think) ---I figured in a pinch I could thread a barrel between centres - its a decent small machine - gets used a lot (often) - the three jaw chuck will repeat inside one thousandth if I mark the jaw and the workpiece (surprisingly good I reckon!!) use sharp tools and take light cuts its fine
3) uncle passed on and I inherited a 4K chinese lathe - didnt need it - would not have bought it - gets used about half as often as the small machine - far superior for any heavier work
4) I put the scrap recyclers into the farm rubbish heap back when iron ore was sky high and trucked out two semis of rubbish and spent it on a mill drill - will do any of that kind of work that I will ever want to do

Tooling - spent a couple hundred at a yard sale then found a guy that grinds reamers and endmills - got a stack of interesting stuff that way and I have bought a lot of stuff off ebay - the cheap stuff is useable and its pennies in the dollar - the main fault is the cutting tools are brittle - hard, they cut ok, but break easier.

Most handy thing I have is a set of small collets with a taper shank for the mill and a parallel shank that I use in the chuck of my small lathe, cost about sixty bucks all up and it is just magic for holding small stuff - can turn down boolits - rims of cases - hold small screws without marking the thread so you can clean up the burred heads etc - just the best gear!

[EDG]

The mini lathe will only fool you into thinking a real lathe until you try to run it.
You are better off buying a real lathe.

[Ozark mike]

Whatever you do dont talk about small lathes over on practical machinest they will scalp ya cook ya over an open flame then eat ya all while you are still kicking and screaming

[Hootmix]

Hello, my is Hootmix ,, and i'm a Mini Lathe Addict ,,mine is a 7x12 ( 14 ), it is blue w/ a 4 jaw chuck & my S.B 9 w/ 3 1/2 ft. bed w/ old 3 jaw chuck is gray w/ bright yellow down in side ( so I can see ) both have 3/4" bores. Some times I just make 3/4 " bolts ( grade 5 & 8) in to 1/4" rods just to practice ( I am a addict ) . I use both to make nearly all my own gun parts ( lever actions ).
The 7x12 w/ 4 jaw chuck will get with in .001-.003 ,, but the tail stock is almost worthless ,, of course I am not very good ,, yet ,, but for what I do they both serve me well ,, would I like a bigger lathe , well ,, yes ,, just don't room in my closet ( shop ) , ( or the money ).
With all that being said , I have surprised myself many times with parts i'v made , from just junk iron laying around . Yup ! gets in the blood. It's 4:00 am now, and I have the urge to go to the shop ( working on a 76 win. ) after my coffee ,,, heck i'll take the coffee w/ me ( I am a addict ya' know ( lol ).

coffee's ready Hootmix.

[farmbif]

since selling my big lathe and Bridgeport before moving ive been looking at the smithy. the granite has chuck bore of 1.6", mt4, and specs as far as spindle accuracy and tolerances on it look pretty good.

[yovinny]

since selling my big lathe and Bridgeport before moving ive been looking at the smithy. the granite has chuck bore of 1.6", mt4, and specs as far as spindle accuracy and tolerances on it look pretty good.

Might want to get some oppinions and reviews on them first.
Both the people I know that owned Smithys said they were a waste of $$ and dont do much of anything well,,,ymmv

[fixit]

there is a 8 x 16 lathe with a 1.5 bore on fleabay...not sure how solid, but would be suitable for a lot of smaller jobs. there are several sites that go into improving the chi com defects, so some work, and alittle more money, and you have a servicable lathe...according to them. i am planning to get one, so i'll try to remember to let everyone know when i do, probably a few months from now.

[farmbif]

thanks for the heads up on the smithy. theres an auction less than 4 hours from me im watching for a south bend that looks to be a 10x36 or 10x42 for 1/4 the price of that new probably foreign made smithy. if I can find some help loading it I just might be bidding to win. its even got the taper attachment and I think I have a collet set up for one like, somewhere.

[GregLaROCHE]

Thats usually how it goes with lathes. Its said buy the largest one ya can afford. Besides lathes are cheap compared to all the tooling ya will need

I second this. Expect to spend near the same amount as the lathe on tooling and accessories.

[Traffer]

Disparaging a mini lathe is like a Rolls Royce owner disparaging a Honda. If you only have money for an entry level unit...THEY DO WORK. AND it is only the creatively challenged wannabe's who need the biggest and most expensive units.
I bought my HF 7X10 for $420 out the door a few years ago when they still honored 25% discounts on Central Machinery stuff. I wished I could have bought an old bigger and better unit used but after looking for over 2 years and having several deals fall through, I just broke down and got the mini.
Glad I did. It is the perfect learning tool. Modifying and fixing it has taught me tons about turning and machinery in general. I am not afraid to "push the limits" on a $400 unit. Especially since replacement parts are cheap and easily accessible.
So far I have changed the spindle bearings. Re- gibbed the slides. modified the tailstock to be quick lock, and changed many many parts.
EVERY bit of that was fun and educational. There is no way I would have learned so much about machining if I had gotten ANYTHING else.
There is a forum on Facebook called
"7x mini lathe" where both experts and novices share and help each other. Any machinist would be surprised what they might find there. There are people who have gotten their mini lathes to run to very close tolerances and mod them to practically sit up and speak.
It is acknowledged that they are light and limited but if you focus on what they CAN do. You might be amazed.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Excellent post Taffer, and some good points made. Much better to have something than nothing, to wait for the larger, more expensive model and perhaps never to have it. Meanwhile, a lot can be learned on a mini, and most of it will apply to the bigger lathe when you get one.

[GARD72977]

The little 7x10 lathe works. It's well suited to spin brass very fast. It was my second lathe because I didn't want to spin the bigger lathe fast enough to turn small brass parts.

If you are a machinist then you will find everything wrong with it. If you are a mature machinist it will do many small jobs for you.

[kenton]

My brother in law bought a 9x20in HF lathe a few years back. He would get mad at me when I said it was a cool toy. He would demand I acknowledge it was the equal of the lathes I ran at work (I'm a machinist). He finally came around to my point of view after he saw me running my 14x40 Enterprise lathe (which is still a lighter lathe for it's size) removing in 1 pass what would be a minimum of 4 passes on his lathe. All while running a higher chip load and getting a better surface finish.

That said I made a few projects on that lathe before I got my own and as others have said you can do good work on them it just takes more time and the machine is less forgiving of mistakes. One trick we learned is, if you are wanting to use carbide, use sharp, high shear aluminum inserts and for cutting steel. They work far better than inserts intended for steel on smaller lathes that don't have the power or rigidity to take the surface speed, depth of cut, or chip load to make the inserts work correctly.

OP, I have an acquaintance who is looking to sell what I believe is a Southbend 10K that is wired for 115v located a little ways south of Champaign IL. If you are interested shoot me a message.

Example of the inserts I am talking about.
https://latheinserts.com/CCGT-3251-INSERT-FOR-ALUMINUM-SILVER-4210002382.htm

Insert designation breakdown
http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm

[indian joe]

"I'm a machinist" -- so you make your living doing this - rate of removal matters - high chip load matters - bigger lathes are better .......

I'm a customer of the machinist - or at east I used to be when I ran the farm full scale - sad to say that at least half the work I have paid done by professional machinist people has been second rate to botched (I think/hope that has improved over the years as equipment has got better and cheaper) - when I needed to fix one of those badly botched engineering shop jobs I found a crotchety old hobbyist lathe man - a guy who really cared about the last cut.

I think I would push this further and say likely most of the lathe work coming out of machine shops is not up to par for gunwork - of course these "machinists" are capable of it - but time and dollar constraints interfere ..............

So for this old dude - hogging big deep cuts out with a tungsten insert tool means very little (I do have a machine that will do it, I have a few insert tools, and when I tangle with something the tool steel wont cut ....)

We (some of us anyway) are doing this for FUN so time spent on a particular job dont matter so long as we get it done right - the last cut is what counts

[kenton]

I guess I should say my point wasn't that you need a big lathe but that a well designed and well made lathe is worlds better than a HF lathe. One of my most commonly used lathes at work is a 11x18 Sharp tool room lathe. It is a much more rigid and powerful machine than that HF lathe will ever be.

As Traffer seemed to be saying and my BIL law found, most HF machine tools are more like parts kits that need finishing to function well. Usually they can be made to work well if you have the skill and time but they will always be limited by their lighter castings and design.

There is a place for cheap import machines. It just seems many people don't realize there are other options in older industrial and repair machines with improved capability for not much more money.

As far as your parts coming in bad from your machine shop, the shop should have made right on those parts if they weren't in tolerance. If you didn't have tolerances on your print and didn't effectively communicate what was needed, well that's rough.

Either way I'm glad you found a crotchety old hobbyist who could make parts the way you wanted them.

[Traffer]

I guess I should say my point wasn't that you need a big lathe but that a well designed and well made lathe is worlds better than a HF lathe. One of my most commonly used lathes at work is a 11x18 Sharp tool room lathe. It is a much more rigid and powerful machine than that HF lathe will ever be.

As Traffer seemed to be saying and my BIL law found, most HF machine tools are more like parts kits that need finishing to function well. Usually they can be made to work well if you have the skill and time but they will always be limited by their lighter castings and design.

There is a place for cheap import machines. It just seems many people don't realize there are other options in older industrial and repair machines with improved capability for not much more money.

As far as your parts coming in bad from your machine shop, the shop should have made right on those parts if they weren't in tolerance. If you didn't have tolerances on your print and didn't effectively communicate what was needed, well that's rough.

Either way I'm glad you found a crotchety old hobbyist who could make parts the way you wanted them.

Ever since youtube made hobby machining popular the really good deals on old heavy machines has all but dried up. Used to be able to buy good stuff for scrap prices...About 10 years ago...but no longer. Craigslist and facebook listings are getting thin and the prices are usually way WAY up there. Otherwise I would have gotten an older machine. In fact one of the deals that I might have gotten was for an OLD 10x28. A buddy bought it for $100 and drove over 200 miles to get it. ( I would have also if I had seen the ad first) I offered him twice what he paid for it and gas money before he had it off the truck. He laughed at me. That was 3 years ago. It is still sitting on the bottom of a pile of stuff in his garage. He will never use it. But he will also never sell it to me. (God why do you give me friends like that?)

[kenton]

That annoying that your buddy is Bogarting a lathe he will never use but a least it is inside so someday in the future it maybe useful. I know of a few machines that were stored under tarps for a "couple days" five or more years ago that are boat anchors now.[smilie=b:

The prices for machine tools right now seem to be down from what I have seen in the past, I'm guessing due to the slow economy and people having time to clean up and sell stuff that has been sitting in their garage or out buildings. I have seen some decent lathes on craigslist for 1k-3k depending on make and condition. I actually found an almost identical copy of my lathe on Ebay for under 3k, of course it is 500 miles from me. If you are brave enough to play the industrial auction game you can find some screaming deals, but be aware of buyers premiums, rigging fees, etc.

Of course a lot of the best deals are word of mouth, someone has a lathe they don't want anymore and will sell for a low price to someone who will use if and then they don't have to deal with people from facebook/craigslist. But you have to know someone who knows someone who knows someone to get those deals.

They will never beat a $400 mini lathe on price especially once you factor in running electrical and making/buying a phase converter for 3 phase machines but if you can swing 3x to 5x more money you could get 10x the machine.

And I'm not trying to be an elitist, mini lathes have their place but there are other options for those that are interested.

[country gent]

One thing thats surprising is like a truck winning a large sum of cash or a welder, Getting a lathe you will be surprised how many new friends you have LOL

[Drm50]

I have a big old South Bend, belt drive but I was interested in one of those small $500-700 jobs.
Buddy of mine bought one and it’s a joke for anything serious. Might be ok for crafts if you are turning soft materials. In my neck of the woods it’s not hard to find big lathes used. Any quality small lathe or mill doesn’t last long before it’s grabbed.

[rbuck351]

I bought a returned 7x10 HF for $230 about ten years ago. It was more of less an assembled kit. I had to lap the bottom of the head stock and tail stock to get it aligned. I opened the head stock to .812 IIRC to allow a TC bull barrel to pass through.
I found the space between the chuck and tail stock to be very short so I bought the 14" bed kit from Little Machine Shop along with a 4 jaw chuck. This made a huge difference in useable space. I also bolted the lathe to a 3' piece of 6" channel iron which helped a bit for a more rigid bed. I still have under $500 invested and although it won't take huge cuts or work well with carbide, it is capable of making a lot of accurate parts and doesn't take up a lot of space. I have use it to make barrel inserts for my Contender in 22lr, and 22KH that shoot very well. I made a chamber insert for my 256Win to use power hammer loads and a 40gr cast. I have cut 7x14" threads to make a sizer die but it requires taking very shallow cuts and now just buy 7x14 all thread. I also have a 10 x 24 atlas but the 7x14 still gets a lot of use.

[bangerjim]

They will never beat a $400 mini lathe on price especially once you factor in running electrical and making/buying a phase converter for 3 phase machines but if you can swing 3x to 5x more money you could get 10x the machine.



But once you have converted to a 3P motor and VFD controller, you will be in 7th heaven! I put the original 1PH 3P motor back on my used South Bend tool room lathe after I bought an A/B phase converter VFD module. It takes 220 1P and makes it 220 3P with all the unbelievable speed control and soft start technology. Now I can get 1 RPM on the lathe with NO changing of belts! And almost FULL HP at any speed ( you loose a bit of power in the electronic conversion, but who cares). Smooth power up and down, electronic reversing, and digital speed display. No more starting & running caps to go bad or starter contacts to burn out.

I am in tool heaven!

You will pay from $300-450 for a good quality name-brand VFD depending on the HP rating. Well worth the investment. I already had 220 1P power available behind the lathe.

[kenton]

...I also bolted the lathe to a 3' piece of 6" channel iron which helped a bit for a more rigid bed....

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/building-beefcake-lathe-bench-317924/

I always wanted to make one of these for my BIL's lathe but still haven't gotten around to it. I think it would make a tremendous difference.

[Traffer]

But once you have converted to a 3P motor and VFD controller, you will be in 7th heaven! I put the original 1PH 3P motor back on my used South Bend tool room lathe after I bought an A/B phase converter VFD module. It takes 220 1P and makes it 220 3P with all the unbelievable speed control and soft start technology. Now I can get 1 RPM on the lathe with NO changing of belts! And almost FULL HP at any speed ( you loose a bit of power in the electronic conversion, but who cares). Smooth power up and down, electronic reversing, and digital speed display. No more starting & running caps to go bad or starter contacts to burn out.

I am in tool heaven!

You will pay from $300-450 for a good quality name-brand VFD depending on the HP rating. Well worth the investment. I already had 220 1P power available behind the lathe.

Everybody has different needs. Would I like a Deckel S1? ...You betcha. But I live on a T I G H T budget with my wife. My work space is a shared living room/dining room/office in our 450 sq ft apartment. I also have a 10' x 10' storage locker that I rent across town. It has a 110 outlet but actually doing work there is pushing it. So i have a shop that consists of two 30"x16" red Harbor Freight carts that i have my lathe on one, and on the other is my reloading press. This one also has a spot for either my $50 HF bench top drill press or my HF 1" belt sander. It also has a vise mounted on it. My computer desk is my shop bench.
So for me, having a 7x10 HF mini lathe is a blessing beyond description. I can do my R&D and prototyping of the ideas I come up with in the comfort of my home. (My health prevents me from being able to maintain a shop anyway)
Now, I don't think my landlord (82 unit high rise apt building) They wouldn't have let me set up a gas forge in here either. hahahaha.
There are many folks out there who think a person needs a ton of money and space to set up a little lathe operation. To those I say "look at what I do here" ...

[rbuck351]

Traffer, if I lived in a 450sq ft apt, I would consider myself very lucky if my wife allowed me to have a 7x10 HF lathe in the house. I am very familiar with the limitations of a 7x10 but I am also aware that it can do a lot more than some seem to think. Some of us just can not have the toys we want for one reason or another. I'm glad to see you are making good use of limited space and funds. Keep up the good work. Buck.

[indian joe]

That annoying that your buddy is Bogarting a lathe he will never use but a least it is inside so someday in the future it maybe useful. I know of a few machines that were stored under tarps for a "couple days" five or more years ago that are boat anchors now.[smilie=b:

The prices for machine tools right now seem to be down from what I have seen in the past, I'm guessing due to the slow economy and people having time to clean up and sell stuff that has been sitting in their garage or out buildings. I have seen some decent lathes on craigslist for 1k-3k depending on make and condition. I actually found an almost identical copy of my lathe on Ebay for under 3k, of course it is 500 miles from me. If you are brave enough to play the industrial auction game you can find some screaming deals, but be aware of buyers premiums, rigging fees, etc.

Of course a lot of the best deals are word of mouth, someone has a lathe they don't want anymore and will sell for a low price to someone who will use if and then they don't have to deal with people from facebook/craigslist. But you have to know someone who knows someone who knows someone to get those deals.

They will never beat a $400 mini lathe on price especially once you factor in running electrical and making/buying a phase converter for 3 phase machines but if you can swing 3x to 5x more money you could get 10x the machine.

And I'm not trying to be an elitist, mini lathes have their place but there are other options for those that are interested.

Its horses for courses with all this stuff - the little lathes will do little work better, easier, and quicker than a bigger machine - but if you want to thread a barrel or profile one you need something at least half decent and some runs on the board using it.

I'm lucky I have room to house and use anything I want (afford is a different story) and I could not stand to live anyplace where I didnt have that space - others either by choice or necessity dont have that option .

I borrowed a tiny model maker lathe from a friend once - sat it on the counter in my gunroom - polished up a few screws and stuff with it but was seriously frustrated by what I could'nt do with it so I do get your point.

[country gent]

I currently have 3 lathes here the little harbor freight 7 x 12. A clausing style 12 x 40. And a Nardinni 14/18 x 40.

These are all good machines and have their uses. The little HF is great for screw heads and polishing also re working case rims and odd ball work on cases. Top speed is 2500 rpm cariable speed with high and low. I mostly use HSS cobalt in it. It does accurate work but does require more "care" to do the best. The 12 X 40 is a good machine and sees the biggest share of use normally cemented carbide or HSS cobalt in it it has aloris tool folders on it 2 hp motor it will take a decent cut or drill and tap well. Its accurate and more forgiving. Also quick change gears for threading and feeds. The 14 /18 c 40 nardinni is a heavy duty machine it will rough and finish accurately roughing passes depend on how much carbide you have on the tool 8-). This machine has change gears digital read out and 2500 rpm upper end but with these big chucks it takes forever for them to stop at that speed and balance is iffy. This machine has a 7 1/2 hp motor It is a brute. Aloris holders ( interchange with the 12 x 40 ) it sees mostly inserts with a little cemented carbide.

Each machine has its place and does somethings better or easier than the others. In most shops they have 3-4 small to med size lathes and a couple brutes, the brute sit most of the year and may be used 3-4 a yar while the 14" swing machines carry the work load and run almost every day. Those little Hardringe 10" machiines see alot of use as they are solid accurate and handy.

[dragon813gt]

Would you use a sledge hammer to drive a nail? Same concept w/ lathes about the right tool for the job. The small lathes would not exist if there wasn’t a market for them.

[bangerjim]

The small lathes would not exist if there wasn’t a market for them...............or the lack of money!


More power to those that can squeeze their machining needs into a small room and out of small power tools. I have over 1,500+ SQFT of shop space between my 2 shops and it is full of power and hand tools and multiple work benches. But I also have friends that run their small tool operations (model making) literally out of a double door closet in their bedroom!!!! Everything stores & folds away to make room for the next tool operation needed. Reminds me of the old ShopSmith I started out with over 45+ years ago. Bought it and ALL the attachments ever made for it for $65 at a garage sale. Changing tool set-ups took more time & work than making the actual project itself. That is why I made it a goal/vow 40 years ago to have individual separate stationary tools for each and ever step of a project (metal & wood)....and the space to put & use them in.

But whatever it takes to keep a person happy is good! Very good.

I know I am happy.

Happy Machining!

banger

[Jeff Michel]

I have had smaller lathes and still have a Myford Super 7 and use it occasionally, and yes they do have place, especially if your just getting started . I think that before you shell out your money on a HF (Chinese) unit, you might consider a Sherline, compact, powerful for their size and there is a ton of accessories available. Made in the US as well and that doesn't hurt either. They are so cute, I've almost impulsed bought one half a dozen times, but I need another lathe like another hole in the head (five currently). You might find out that a little one will do everything you need done but as other people have warned, it does get under your skin and as your interest and your skill increases, the need for a bigger lathe or a milling machine will become your newest obsession. Good luck with your hunt.

[bangerjim]

There is a difference between that ChiCom stuff HF peddles and your Myford! I have both and the Myford is a BIG lathe in a small package. Built like their larger brothers, they have all the rigidity, accuracy, and capability only in a smaller footprint and capacity. The fit-n-feel-n-finish of the Myford reigns supreme over any ChiCom garbage except the big high-end lathes they make over there.

[Traffer]

There is a difference between that ChiCom stuff HF peddles and your Myford! I have both and the Myford is a BIG lathe in a small package. Built like their larger brothers, they have all the rigidity, accuracy, and capability only in a smaller footprint and capacity. The fit-n-feel-n-finish of the Myford reigns supreme over any ChiCom garbage except the big high-end lathes they make over there.

There is a guy on youtube who has a myford and a 7x mini. Half the stuff he makes on the myford is mods for the mini. I think that's funny. That's the way hobbies are though. Like making bird houses. I know people who make them that would pay people to take them so they would have room to make more. It's just fun. But I don't have to tell reloaders that.

[Ozark mike]

This is the absolute smallest i would go and that i recommend. Since i dont think i can post a link just google this

Grizzly G0768 - 8" x 16" Variable-Speed Benchtop Lathe

[Traffer]

Gentlemen, for your viewing consideration. One thing I will say is that the quality of Chinese Mini lathes VARY a great deal. This is one of the really bad ones. It is not a Harbor Freight unit. They all look the same and probably had the beds and major castings made in the same place. But after that. There is a huge difference in quality. My HF looks very similar with only a different switch setup and power button. But mine worked well out of the box. Screws were tight and things were put together correctly. It still needed the bevy of mods.
But this video will testify to just about every argument FOR and AGAINST these things. There is another guy who modded his to run CNC. But he uses language that will get me suspended so I can't post his videos. I think this one is safe:
https://youtu.be/Nfgn2YaX0Fk

[bangerjim]

Remember——————-a metal lathe is the only machine tool that can make most parts and accessories for ITSELF! I restored most of the parts on an old 12” craftsman back gear screw cutting lathe using the lathe itself. Only thing I could not make was the lead screw which I touched up with a square needle file. This thing was a horrible pile of junk when given to me. My 1st metal lathe 47 years ago. Sold it years later for $850 and in almost 100% new condition! Had to buy 5 gears from Craftsman back in the day when they actually sold real tools and parts. Today I could easily cut all those needed gears on my milling machines.

[Ozark mike]

You can cut gears and lead screws on a lathe. need an indexer for the gears

[bangerjim]

You can cut gears and lead screws on a lathe. need an indexer for the gears

Yes, you can, but a poor man's (somewhat inaccurate) way of doing it. Back then I did not possess the sets of index plates or the several index tables/indexers I now have. I cut gears now with a CNC indexer on a milling machine the way it should be done for accuracy and precision. Years ago I cut a special metric gear for my SB tool room lathe so I could cut a special metric thread for restoration project on the lathe it was to be used on! Used a indexer on the head stock. Should have just bought it and saved myself a lot of headaches! (These days, if I can buy something I need already made, I just do it.)

A LONG lead screw with precision cut ACME square threads is a bit more tricky on an old clunker lathe that could hardly take a clean path from head to tail stock! That's why I cleaned the old one up and waited to order one. Not that expensive from Clausing/Craftsman back 40+ years ago.

For most lathe operations you really do not need the lead screw. I rarely use power feeds and power cross feeds, unless it is a l-o-n-g finishing cut. But threading definitely does require a lead screw. I never use power when threading...built a manual handle adapter for the head-stock and just take it slow and easy for perfect threads every time.

A metal lathe lathe is the most valuable tool one could have in a machine shop.

[Mr_Sheesh]

bangerjim - "a metal lathe is the only machine tool that can make most parts and accessories for ITSELF!" - If you include the modern 3d metal sintering printers, and the filament deposition ones, not quite true, but still mostly true :)

I need to move so I can have a place to work (I seem to remember that it's called a "shop"?) Apartment life bites. I am envious of you folks' machine tools here, plus the rest of your shops' contents LOL

[bangerjim]

I don't really consider 3D printers as machine tools, even though I have one. Prints the odd off part I need out of plastic, but I know there ones that cost as much as a house that do metal and they are becoming more prevalent in industry. I have done several recent webinars from 3D printer companies on the subject.....very interesting where tech is going!

The 3D digital files are what are a PITA for most but AutoCad-ish engineers. And the slow speed is a killer.

Here's hoping you can find more space!

[McFred]

there is a 8 x 16 lathe with a 1.5 bore on fleabay...not sure how solid, but would be suitable for a lot of smaller jobs. there are several sites that go into improving the chi com defects, so some work, and alittle more money, and you have a servicable lathe...according to them. i am planning to get one, so i'll try to remember to let everyone know when i do, probably a few months from now.

Like many ChiCom mini lathes, Those 8 x 16s are a bit of a project, but not too bad once it's cleaned, straightened up/modded:

http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=139536

And nearly a Ø1.5" spindle bore when means the short(er) bed is less of an issue when working on centers. Add an AXA tool post and some ER collet capability and it gets even nicer.

[bangerjim]

One thing nobody has mentioned is quick change gears! A bit out of the price range of those cheap ChiCom mini's but well worth the upgrade to a decent machine. I ran a manual back gear change lathe for years and always longed for a QCG lathe. Then I ran into my gently used SB tool room lathe! OMG what a dream. No more digging thru a drawer to find the right gears, looking up the gears needed, positioning them on the spider, and then aligning them and hoping I got the right gears in the right position. Then cleaning off all the grease mess on my hands!!!!!

With QCG lathe, if I want to cut 14TPI, I just move 2 levers and............there it is!. Same with feed speeds, need 0.002"/rev, just move the two levers and bingo! Granted you are looking at a bunch more money new, but it is nice to know what to look for in used tools.

Just some advice for the wise tool shopper.

[Traffer]

One thing nobody has mentioned is quick change gears! A bit out of the price range of those cheap ChiCom mini's but well worth the upgrade to a decent machine. I ran a manual back gear change lathe for years and always longed for a QCG lathe. Then I ran into my gently used SB tool room lathe! OMG what a dream. No more digging thru a drawer to find the right gears, looking up the gears needed, positioning them on the spider, and then aligning them and hoping I got the right gears in the right position. Then cleaning off all the grease mess on my hands!!!!!

With QCG lathe, if I want to cut 14TPI, I just move 2 levers and............there it is!. Same with feed speeds, need 0.002"/rev, just move the two levers and bingo! Granted you are looking at a bunch more money new, but it is nice to know what to look for in used tools.

Just some advice for the wise tool shopper.

You may find this interesting...

https://youtu.be/FTs9GygRQ-U?list=PLDlWKv7KIIr90ZZ7Zqt-ge5nVVdS3WVgg

[bangerjim]

Interesting concept for techies, but I know there is a lot of drive power needed to move the carriage assembly up and down the ways and I would not trust precision threading to a stepper motor and processor trying to drive it accurately. Even that little mini lathe requires a bit of power to move the carriage! And with non-precision ways, the problem compounds itself.

Thanks for the link. Very interesting.

[Traffer]

Sorry for all the videos. Watching videos is about all I can do nowadays. In response to Bangerjim...He did go to a servo instead of a stepper for more power (I think that's correct) . This guy is truly a wiz kid. He makes these control setups and sells them now. Lot's of folks have gone to electronic lead screws now. He has many videos on just this project.

https://youtu.be/7QaQrqn4yeI

[Tokarev]

You cannot thread barrels in one pass on a 8x12 lathe. You need multiple passes. In order to do multiple passes, you need a thread indicator that actually works. If your lathe has it and you tested and proved that it works, power to you.

[bangerjim]

Right!!!! You NEVER cut threads in one pass, even on a big beefy machine. Unless you want rough mangled threads. Power threading on a lathe is a learned/developed skill. And you MUST have an accurate threading dial with minimum hysteresis.

I have been threading on a lathe for over 40 years. It is easy and fun......if you know what you are doing. And especially if you have a quick change gear lathe! Practice makes perfect. Always practice on a same-size scrap if you are new at the game B4 ruining your project.

banger

[Tokarev]

Yes, you can actually cut nice threads in "one" pass, if you have a beefy lathe and proper tools.
In production, it is done in one rough pass and another smooth pass. No one can afford multiple passes these days.
But it just does not work with hobby lathes. Probably on aluminum, but never on steel.

[bangerjim]

In production ,it is done in one rough pass and another smooth pass.

That count equals TWO passes in my book! HA....ha! On smaller lathes you can generally get by with 3 or 4 passes and then a finish pass. We are not talking production environments in our little home shops here, so let's just say you should not cut threads in one pass. It all depends on the depth/number of threads and the quality you want to end up with. Cutting a 4/40 thread is a whole lot different than cutting a 1-8 or 1½-6 and larger thread.

[sharps4590]

Wow....just reading this thread confirms what I already knew...that is how much I don't know.

I bought a 9 X 19 Grizzly, with stand from an acquaintance worth the money to me. 90% of what I do on it has more to do with working on brass cases than anything else and, it works fine for that. The few projects I do in steel are both small and not very complicated so I just go slow. If any of you guys ever watched me work I'm 100% confident I would provide comic relief.....

My "in house" basement shop is about 1100 sq. ft. and I'm very grateful. About 2 years after we built the house I went up the hill about 50 yards and built me a 24 X 20 shop that houses my automotive stuff and, believe it or not, 3 MG's, a '55 TF, a '56 A and a '74 B. 'Course I have to back one out to work on anything but there's a plan to add 12 more feet to the back. Then I QUIT!!!

[Scrounge]

Are any of the Harbor Freight Mini Lathes capable of barrel threading?
Any books out there for using a Mini Lathe for Dummies?

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Lathe-Workshop-Practice-David-Fenner/dp/1854862545

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Lathe-Tools-Projects-David-Fenner/dp/1854862650

The first book is a basic how to unpack, clean up, and get to know it book for the mini-lathe, and the second is how to make it do more than the basic out-of-the-box mini-lathe is capable of. Both well written, and photographed.

Here is one guy's work done on a mini-lathe: http://www.packratworkshop.com/pdf/mini%20lathe%20rifles.pdf

Not saying the mini-lathe is the ultimate gunsmith's lathe, because it is not. Am saying anyone who says they're useless is quite wrong.

Bill

[country gent]

Thats a loaded question asking if a mini lathe can thread a barrel many things come into this equation. Spindle bore size barrel od bed length and barrel length. A 3: pistol barrel they will do a fine job in a skilled operators hands a heavy sharps barrel to finish at 34" long probably not.
They will cut threads but will be much slower and more care will be needed then a bigger heavier machine. What I mean is instead of .015-.020 roughing passes it will be more like .003-.005 per pass then .001 finish to clean up and size.

But as stated in this post the hobbyist isnt interested in time as much as what can be done and the project. My concern of these small lathes is weight and overloading the bearings.

[oldred]

Been reading this whole thing and I have quite a bit of experience with HF lathes just not the little 7" outfits. An important point that no one has mentioned so far is that from about 12x36 machines on up the Chinese lathes make a huge leap in quality! They certainly won't equal the heavy American or European industrial iron but they are not junk either and are more than capable of doing anything a hobbyist might ask of it. The point is just because it came from China does not automatically make it junk nor does the Harbor Freight name either if it's one of the larger machines. These lathes can be a real bargain and unless they have been neglected (left outside, etc) they usually have seen little use and thus little to no wear. I have seen many discussions about these machines and all too often we see people insisting that a person is much better off with an old industrial machine than a new, or little used, Chinese machine but is that true? Almost all of the old industrial machines in the same price range as the Chinese outfits have significant wear while it's rare to see that on the imports, Chinese machines are also likely to have many desirable features that won't be found on the old iron. From 12x36 on up Chinese lathes are pretty much the same regardless of brand, Enco, Precision Mathews, etc and even the discontinued HF heavy machines are the same except for color. Sure you can find older iron in decent shape sometimes but it's hard to find and rarely cheap these days, do you really want to buy even a nice 10" older American lathe when the same, or nearly so, money will get you a 14" swing, a longer bed, larger through hole and a quick change box? It makes no difference how much better quality the old iron is (was) if the job won't fit, and that's even if if the ways are not worn! I had a lot of people tell me, at least in "sugar coated way, that I was stupid for buying a new Harbor Freight 14x40 lathe but I had done my homework! That HF lathe was IDENTICAL in every way to Birmingham, precision Mathews and several other more expensive lathes that were different only in color and price, the HF lathe even came with a Birmingham YCL 1440 manual but at far less money. ALL of these machines were a lot more capable than any used "old iron" I could find at anywhere near the price, besides I got a new machine with a lot more desirable features and zero wear to deal with.

But it will just fall apart in no time doncha know, all that Chinese stuff falls apart!

Well I have run this thing unmercifully for about 12 years now almost everyday but weekends and I am still waiting for the first part to fall off! It's accurate and with 5 HP has all the power I need, I use it to do farm machinery and logging machine repair in addition to my hobby work, anyone who has spent time turning heavy weld buildup usually on badly balanced parts can attest to the punishment that kind of work deals out to a lathe but my Chinese HF "junk" machine has yet to let me down. Well I have to admit about five or six years ago I did have to weld together the engagement lever assembly after it broke, I can't imagine why the darn thing could not withstand my backing into it with a fork lift I mean this was just a small fork lift carrying a few hundred pounds! Chinese junk I suppose. :razz:

[RC46]

My $.02, no won't work for what you want to do. We had one in the shop that we used to make compression posts (pillars) for stock bedding. Worked great for that. Small head stock, 3/4" as I remember.

A friend uses online 'used tool sellers', you might check there: machinesales.com, hgrinc.com, budsmachinetools.com, + many more. At least worth a look - a cautious look, probably a good time to be a buyer.

[Drm50]

The first threads I ever cut on gun barrel was on a heavy 1919 Brn MG. I still have them fron 50yrs ago. I had to part them off and redo. You could use that cutoff as a barrel inlet tool today, still ragged and sharp.

[brstevns]

And all I want to do is make up some bullet sizing dies and maybe make a firing pin. What tools would I need besides the hobby lathe?

[ulav8r]

And all I want to do is make up some bullet sizing dies and maybe make a firing pin. What tools would I need besides the hobby lathe?

A set of good drill bits, a drill chuck for the tailstock, a few square bits to grind for external turning and a small boring bar or two, and tool holders for the turning tools and boring bars. A few chucking reamers and homemade lapping tools would also be handy.

This is a quick reply, so short. More tools would be better.

[Dutchman]

Bought this Enco vertical mill 8x36" table used for about $2,000 and that included the $300 freight from Madison, Wisconsin to northern California. Knew the seller, a fellow gun collector so bit the bullet, as it were. Having only a lathe and no mill is a lot like trying to play baseball with only one arm. I made 3X what it cost me making scope mounts (many sold in this forum). It was a very good investment and an excellent improvement over the Index Model 40 mill I'd used for 30 years in my home shop.

https://images46.fotki.com/v374/photos/4/28344/7321255/DSCF3069fr-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/vintage_machine_tools/enco-mill/dscf3069fr.html)


The old Index Model 40 was a very well built machine but it started life in 1942 at Douglas Aircraft building airplanes for the US Navy in Long Beach, Calif. The leadscrews were very tired but I made do.

https://images54.fotki.com/v625/photos/4/28344/7321255/DSCF3079fr-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/vintage_machine_tools/enco-mill/dscf3079fr.html)

My life as a lathe owner started at the LARGER end of the spectrum with this Von Wyck 15x60 10 speed belt driven monster that weighed about 3,000 lbs. It was very worn on the bed but it cut beautiful threads and would run and run and run with a tiny 1 hp motor. It was made in Cincinnati circa 1905.

https://images54.fotki.com/v563/photos/2/28344/474695/la10-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/vintage_machine_tools/von_wyck_lathe/la10.html)

Somewhere along the way I traded into this ancient Atlas-Craftsman 10x30 lathe. It wouldn't cut threads as the lousy gears were too wore out. But with 3C collets it would turn out accurate work and all manner of gun/reloading items. Considered a "light" duty lathe but if you come across one that isn't beat to death and you can score it for a decent price I wouldn't pass it by. This one had plain cast iron spindle bearing but later models had Timkin.

https://images46.fotki.com/v1660/photos/2/28344/474695/crapmanlathe-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/vintage_machine_tools/von_wyck_lathe/crapman_lathe.html)

Drawbar for 3C collets made from 1/2" pipe and a piece of aluminum. Worked great.

https://images54.fotki.com/v242/photos/4/28344/9168369/3Cdrawbar-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/vintage_machine_tools/hand-tools/3c-draw-bar.html)

In 2005 I bit the bullet again and made the decision to go for a new 12x36 Birmingham lathe. It has a 1.5" spindle hole and is fully tooled with 5C tooling and now has a new 8" 3 jaw chuck. Cuts threads just fine although if the truth be told the old ancient Von Wyck made better threads. This lathe is just like (identical to) the Grizzly G4003 (I think that's the one).

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-12-x-36-gear-head-cam-lock-spindle-lathe/g4003

Yeah... they doubled in price since I bought mine. $5,000.
https://www.penntoolco.com/birmingham-12-x-36-geared-head-gap-bed-precision-engine-bench-lathe-ycl-1236gh/

https://images49.fotki.com/v367/photos/2/28344/6717603/sq12-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/vintage_machine_tools/new-shop/sq12.html)

Arbor for holding 98 Mauser action in order to face the front surface of the receiver, if necessary. This arbor was turning "between centers" for ultimate accuracy. The center is held in the 3 jaw chuck and is trued each use. Then the side of the jaws drive the lathe dog. Can you spot the cast bullet in this picture? The action is FN Venezuela 24/30 in very raggedy condition. Served as a model for making the arbor. And it served well in that capacity. Never turn down beater or junker guns as long as they're vintage and you can see a use for it. I have several that fit that category.

https://images44.fotki.com/v107/photos/4/28344/7321255/DSCF0769kk-vi.jpg (https://public.fotki.com/dutchman/vintage_machine_tools/enco-mill/dscf0769kk.html)

Starting in 1970 I took tool machine engineering at Los Angeles Pierce College. Took it 1 year. Teacher was ex navy machinist mate WW2 pacific theater and he could sure tell the stories.. but his greatest skill was that he was the most excellent teacher I ever had in any school. Laid back slow talking slow walking east coast Italian. His gift as a teacher was humbling to witness. I can't stress enough the value of a mentor to help guide and give council for the fledgling machinist.

Dutch

[Scrounge]

And all I want to do is make up some bullet sizing dies and maybe make a firing pin. What tools would I need besides the hobby lathe?

To amplify a bit what ulav8r said, I'd want a 4-jaw independent jaw chuck, and that is exactly the first thing I bought for my 7x10 mini-lathe, and/or a ER32 or ER40 collet chuck. And I have one of those, also. Plus a full set of collets. I got both metric and imperial ER32 collets for my mini-lathe, though you probably don't need both. Also you need a 6" dial caliper (or digital, though my school prefers the dial models) and at least a 1" micrometer. Then you need to practice using them a lot. I found that most of my troubles with my mini-lathe were because I hadn't developed the right feel for for measuring things properly with the micrometer and caliper. You can easily spend more than the lathe cost, regardless of which lathe you buy, on tooling so I'd buy what you need, as you need it, once you have the basic kit.

Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a pdf of a few rifles that were build with a mini-lathe. Also you should know that if you get one of the Atlas 10" or 12" lathes, that the accessories for the 7x mini-lathes will mostly work with it, too, as it has essentially the same spindle ID and tapers, and the same tailstock taper. I've got a decent Atlas TH42 (10"x24") lathe, now, too. It counts as a mini-lathe, as well. Same limitations for through hole in the spindle, though longer bed and a threaded spindle instead of a flanged spindle. I had the link posted earlier for that pdf, but the link isn't working anymore. Though you could try it with the Wayback Machine at archive.org, and you can get a bunch of the old books on machining there, as well.

Dutchman has some good info on the Atlas (also Craftsman) lathes, too.

HTH!

Bill

[deltaenterprizes]

since selling my big lathe and Bridgeport before moving ive been looking at the smithy. the granite has chuck bore of 1.6", mt4, and specs as far as spindle accuracy and tolerances on it look pretty good.
I would pass on a 3 in 1!

[brstevns]

OK I no nothing about metal lathe work so was wondering just what would be needed for doing the few little things I mentioned. Guess I would also need to learn how to grind the needed tools as well. I was a wood worker used a wood lathe alot but I know this a different animal. Small SS income so the Harbor Freight would be all I could afford , still might have to sell a rifle to just get that.

[bangerjim]

OK I no nothing about metal lathe work so was wondering just what would be needed for doing the few little things I mentioned. Guess I would also need to learn how to grind the needed tools as well. I was a wood worker used a wood lathe a lot but I know this a different animal. Small SS income so the Harbor Freight would be all I could afford , still might have to sell a rifle to just get that.

A small lathe will do light small work. No 50 cal barrel turning!!!!!!!!! But you could make small parts and screws with the normal back gears they come with. And you find far more projects around the shop and home to make and repair than just a few gun parts!!!! My lathes make 95% other stuff and only 5% gun stuff!!!!!!!

Buy the next size up from what you think you need, if possible. You can always sell quality machine tools and go larger if needed. But being too small will sour on the process very fast! Been there...........done that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't grind your own tools! You may have sharpened your wood turning chisels, but metal working is far different. Just buy TiN coated carbide inserts and the appropriate holders needed for them for the size of lathe. Carbide will last the casual user many years before showing any signs of wear.

Plan on spending just about as much on tooling right up front as your lathe costs! I have 5 metal lathes and many MANY thousands of dollars worth of jigs, tooling, cutters, and adapters!

Good luck in your choice!

[Scrounge]

A small lathe will do light small work. No 50 cal barrel turning!!!!!!!!! But you could make small parts and screws with the normal back gears they come with. And you find far more projects around the shop and home to make and repair than just a few gun parts!!!! My lathes make 95% other stuff and only 5% gun stuff!!!!!!!

Buy the next size up from what you think you need, if possible. You can always sell quality machine tools and go larger if needed. But being too small will sour on the process very fast! Been there...........done that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't grind your own tools! You may have sharpened your wood turning chisels, but metal working is far different. Just buy TiN coated carbide inserts and the appropriate holders needed for them for the size of lathe. Carbide will last the casual user many years before showing any signs of wear.

Plan on spending just about as much on tooling right up front as your lathe costs! I have 5 metal lathes and many MANY thousands of dollars worth of jigs, tooling, cutters, and adapters!

Good luck in your choice!

Sorry, but that's not really a good choice for someone with one of the 7x mini-lathes. Most of the mini-lathes don't have a strong enough motor to push the carbide cutters through a cut, as the carbide cutters aren't as sharp as High Speed Steel cutters can be. And honestly, grinding your own tooling is easy peasy once you learn how. Practice on keystock or square stock of the same size as your lathe tooling, and you'll do fine on the HSS blanks. With diamond hones, or other fine grit sharpening stones you can make them knife sharp. You can even use them on aluminum and plastic stock, if you want. Sharp tooling gives a better surface finish. You can buy sets of pre-ground HSS from Little Machine Shop, and Grizzly. They're not cheap, but you can get them. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tubalcain+grinding+lathe+bits is a list of several videos on grinding your own bits for 7x and similar sized lathes.

Carbide can be a good choice if you can find stuff that is really sharp, or you can hone it to be sharp, and it works better on stiffer and more powerful machines. The 7x hobby lathes run somewhere around 100-150 lbs. An Atlas TH42, which is often considered a step up from the 7x lathes actually has a spindle about the same size as the 7x mini's. So do the 12" Atlas & Craftsman lathes. The headstock and body of the lathe are stronger and heavier than those in the 7x, so my TH42 weighs in at about 267lbs. The small lathe in my classroom weighs 2700lbs, or close to ten times what the TH42 weighs. All other things being equal, a heavier lathe will be a stiffer and stronger lathe, and better for serious work. Up to the point where you can't get one into your shop. ;)

One of the other boards I post on about lathes had a guy mention his lathe, which has a chuck that weighs 100lbs. My HF 7x10 weighs a couple of pound less than his chuck. He mentions how scary it is cutting a small pin on that big lathe with the ginormous chuck. It would be a lot less scary on a 7x10. Though give a choice, a 7x16 would be better. If you can find a decent Atlas or Craftsman 10" or 12" lathe, they're enough bigger to be a bit more useful, but not greatly so, as they still have nearly the same size spindle.

On a limited income, I'd go for a 7x12 or 7x14, over a 7x10. When I got mine, there weren't all that many 7x lathes larger than 7x10, and they were a great deal more expensive. That is less of a problem now. HF has their 7x12 often priced a bit less than the 7x10, which was about $700 last I looked a few weeks ago. Micromark had their 7x16 on sale for $1000 a few days ago. It's normally $1500.

Unless you just absolutely have to have it right now, I'd also look at Craigslist, and Ebay, and find out if there is a model engineering group in your area. You might find a better older machine within your price range. There are more options available than when I got mine nearly 13 years ago. Within reasonable limits a bigger lathe will probably be better. One lucky soul seems to have found himself a 13" South Bend for $600 on one of the South Bend groups at groups.io, and I paid $950 for the Heavy 10L I got a couple of years ago as a restoration project. I do like the 7x lathes, and a lot of people get great use out of them, but they are also size-limited. Which is how I wound up with four, so far. ;)

Hi! My name is Bill, and I'm a toolohaulic!

And the only thing bangerjim said that I disagreed with is about not sharpening your own tools. In my class, which is for professional machinists, they teach you how to grind your own as part of the intro. I learned how to do it well in one class period, about 3 hours. There are different angles you'll want for different metals, but you can get all the info you need on that from books and the internet.

[Traffer]

Turning wood is a good foundation for learning metal machining. It gives a person a good perspective on how things work...even aiding with shortcuts and improvizations for metal work. I like to watch the videos of a guy on youtube that goes by the name of "Rustinox" in Europe. Seat of the pants common sense machining. Good for novices like me to learn from.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCdehjn-R9mM8CdgqO7WZLA/featured