Hi-tek lube with water quenched 30.cal.

[SHORT SHELL]

I HAVE BEEN USING BOTH HI-TEK & PLAIN ALOX COATED GAS CHECKED LINO IN MY 30BR FOR YEARS. I RUN THESE 200GN BULLETS AROUND 2200-2300FPM.
Has anyone found that the water quenched coated lead returns to a lower BHN after the baking of the Hi-tek is completed. I have not noticed any difference in accuracy but the coated get more fliers? I do not re-drop the hot coated ones back into water but will try it soon.

[Conditor22]

this test was done with COWW, lino should be more severe -- maybe too hard

https://i.imgur.com/uclR2g1.png

[popper]

Yes. Cook for one hour (will darken HiTek). Then into ice water. AC after cook gives you AC hardness.

[charlie b]

I do not water quench, but, I do use harder alloys. Mostly Lyman #2. Using lino I would not quench.

I believe the fliers from powder coating are due to the uneven coating on some bullets. When you reach higher RPM's this shows up more. What twist rate is your rifle? My 1:10 twist barrel does not do well with velocities over 2000fps. Below that I get very few fliers. If you don't already, then weight sort your bullets as well.

[SHORT SHELL]

I have tried 2 twist rates 12 & 14 & the fliers are not always happening so it seems the coating is not the problem. Fliers just happen but not a long way out so sometimes it may be the nut behind the butt. I had never tried quenching after coating.
I have water quenched some coated 220gn lead & will try this week but only left 1 week to get full hardness. I have never had problems with coating coming off. when finding bullets after 100m into dirt. To get good baking I found leaving a big plate of steel in the base of fan forced little cheap oven to keep temp. constant. Takes longer but never a problem as I do multiple batches on the day.

[popper]

Quenching after coating is a little more difficult with HiTek than PC - only do it after second coat. Not sure why. I talked to Joe about maybe some UV plastic so HT could be done without loss of BHN, response was the material for UV is VERY high $$$. I don't use HiTek anymore (it is a good product!!) as PC is just so much simpler for ME.

[SHORT SHELL]

I have always put weak 3 coats of HITEK but a bit thinner as it seems to be a lot harder that way. I have always put a coat of alox after final coating to give it a bit more grip in the case neck & never get any leading or coating in bore. Have water quenched last test shooting & no fliers this time. I only size after 2nd coat with a clean .311 sizer die .

[popper]

Last touchup with alox (I use BLL) will also make sizing easier and keep bore cleaner. Problem fixed?

[gnappi]

This is a fascinating subject, quenching success on bullets is new to me. I've been casting many years, and when I cast, I do a LOT, use hard alloys, and have never quenched because I can cast a year or two worth (or more) of ammo and read the age softening occurs rapidly with lead. PC throws a whole new variable into the issue.

Since I cast a LOT when I do, does age softening occur on the base metal of the bullet or the PC?

At any rate, what the chart shows on the air cooled cast / Quenched PC couldn't hurt at all.