reviving rusted trimmer

[farmbif]

ive come across a Lyman universal case trimmer that is rusted. using Kroil ive freed the two adjustment rings but the shaft is still frozen solid and the universal trimmer chuck is still frozen. I removed the chuck from the trimmer frame and have soaked if for a week now with no success yet in getting the threads free. I got the trimmer head off the shaft and have soaked the shaft also for a week now. still can't get it free. I took a drift and tried knocking the shaft out of the frame and the aluminum bushing came out of the frame but shaft is still frozen solid in the bushing. before I take a plumbers torch or propane torch to the chuck and shaft anyone have any suggestions. I'm hesitant to apply heat to these parts because of nylon wiper ring in the shaft bushing and internal spring that holds the steel ball in the chuck. my old friend and mentor gunsmith Marvin Williamson always taught me to gently persuade things apart but its not working on this thing

[farmbif]

ive thought about using a bearing separator and hydraulic press on shaft and bushing but don't want to bugger it up.

[Scrounge]

ive thought about using a bearing separator and hydraulic press on shaft and bushing but don't want to bugger it up.

Get some Evaporust. Clean the trimmer thoroughly with brake cleaner to get the oil off, then use the Evaporust. That should clean it up nicely. You can get a gallon for about $21 from Amazon and have it tomorrow if you have Amazon Prime. If you have a Harbor Freight store in your area, you can probably get a gallon there, but it's going to be about $30 there.

[BigAlofPa.]

Here is a test of different products.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-MC_ZEXQbw

[country gent]

Heat may be needed on the shell holder to free it up. By this I mean controlled heat use a heat gun or oven at a known temp. Heat cycling and soaking should allow it to break loose. Some times vibration added in the cycles helps.

On the aluminum bushing and steel shaft this may be more than just rusted. Aluminum is known to corrode when in contact with other metals forming a white dust powder, this in a close fitted bushing will grow into a very tight press fit requiring a lot of force to move. Soak and heat cycle for a few days then use a cheese cutter type puller and press to disassemble, Plan on a new bushing from the get go. The corrosion will have ruined the fit if nothing else.

Restoring these old tools can be a real labor but can be done. When rebuilding this unit, consider brass bushings. 2 slightly shorter than full length. this leaves an oil groove in between to hold oil and lubricate. Press one in from each side then ream to alignment for the cutter shaft. Consider drilling a small hole in the top housing where the opening between bushing is to allow oil to be added over time. A few drops each day or use will help improve operation and longevity.

[Bazoo]

The one I have has a bronze bushing. I know they switched to nylon but I didn't know they ever used aluminum. Maybe you can secure a replacement bushing. My guess would be it's a standard size.

As for the universal chuck, maybe put in an ultrasonic cleaner and see if it'll free up some.

[mattw]

What about sliding the bushing back in and using something as a puller after removing the cutter from the shaft?

[Scrounge]

Here is a test of different products.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-MC_ZEXQbw

I've tested most of them. One of the things I do for fun is restore old machine tools. Best thing I have found is Evaporust. Metal Magic is a competitor, and IMHO, it's not as good, but will work if you can't find Evaporust, or the cost difference is significant.

If you want to go cheap, and you're not de-rusting things that have wood parts or more than one kind of metal in them, electrolytic rust removal is the way to go. Bronze or aluminum bushings installed? Evaporust. Wooden handles? Evaporust. Any of the acids will work for plain iron or steel, but don't eat just the rust. Leave it in too long, even with vinegar, and you can irreparably harm the metal. Takes a while with the vinegar. Phosphoric acid a little less time, and Muriatic or hydrochloric acid not nearly as long. I started with muriatic acid cleaning freshly welded go-kart frames for my uncle, back in the early 70's. If you use any of the acids, you should neutralize it with baking soda solution, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.

[farmbif]

Lyman has only a few parts available. I'll let it soak a bit longer then drill a couple small holes in bushing so I can get anti rust lubricant right into the corroded area
ive had no luck pulling the nylon wiper out yet but will continue to carefully work at it. ive removed all the exposed rust with kroil and steel wool. don't have any evaporust but do have an unopened bottle of "krud Kutter the must for rust" has anyone ever used this? as far as the chuck ill let it soak some more and maybe try some of the other products y'all have suggested before applying heat. I'm pretty sure heat will get it moving but don't want to destroy that internal spring.

[onelight]

You may have tried already but some light tapping with a plastic or rawhide hammer all over the tool and back in the soak will sometimes gradually work solvent or oil into stuck parts.

[David2011]

Get some Evaporust. Clean the trimmer thoroughly with brake cleaner to get the oil off, then use the Evaporust. That should clean it up nicely. You can get a gallon for about $21 from Amazon and have it tomorrow if you have Amazon Prime. If you have a Harbor Freight store in your area, you can probably get a gallon there, but it's going to be about $30 there.

Exactly what I was going to write. Most auto parts stores also carry Evaporust. You really need it. As said, degreasing is a must. I would try very hard to avoid drilling holes.

[elmacgyver0]

I have a lot better luck with Iron Out, it is a powder you mix with water.
Hot water, Dawn dish soap and Iron Out in an ultrasonic cleaner does an amazing job on removing rust.

[Moleman-]

Mine has a bronze bushing in it. 25 years of use with a cordless drill and the shaft if loose in the bushing. Took it apart and was able to find a new oilite bearing online the same size. Will either press the new bushing in or use nuts/bolts/washers. For your stuck bushing. do you have an open end wrench that fits snugly to the shaft? That'll support the bushing quite well if you want to use the press to push it off. I use the open end wrench trick to remove sights and gas blocks off of barrels. It's quick and easy.

[David2011]

I have a lot better luck with Iron Out, it is a powder you mix with water.
Hot water, Dawn dish soap and Iron Out in an ultrasonic cleaner does an amazing job on removing rust.

I’m always open to trying different products. Thanks.

[Three44s]

Mine has a bronze bushing in it. 25 years of use with a cordless drill and the shaft if loose in the bushing. Took it apart and was able to find a new oilite bearing online the same size. Will either press the new bushing in or use nuts/bolts/washers. For your stuck bushing. do you have an open end wrench that fits snugly to the shaft? That'll support the bushing quite well if you want to use the press to push it off. I use the open end wrench trick to remove sights and gas blocks off of barrels. It's quick and easy.

Reading that a Oilite bushing fits says with or without Lyman you have an ultimate parachute towards saving your rusty tool. That said, I would take your shaft with the stuck bushing to a hard wood block and use a soft faced hammer and tap vigorously on the radius.

You hold the bushing on the semi soft background of say a hard wood block and rotate the stuck parts such that you go around your outside of the stuck bushing several times with your hammer with the wooden block as a backer or anvil if you will.

Since oilite has a bushing you are effectively swaging your frozen bushing away from the cutter shaft and likely not going to be able to re-use the old one but saving the cutter shaft.

This trick is borrowed from plumbers and mechanics. In instances where you can not take a frozen set of parts to an anvil, you take a heavy hammer and keep it opposite the side you are hammering upon (a portable anvil) and vigorously strike the outside of the frozen part.

I use it on plumbing fittings and rusted on nuts to great advantage all the time. Where appropriate, heat and good penetrating fluid are also employed. In the case of plumbing fittings (steel or cast iron) I can often re-use them as they are a tapered thread. A good chasing out and we are good to go. With straight threads such as bolts and nuts it comes down to condition and the cost or replacement or if I have it on hand.

In the OPs case, he should start softly and try twisting the bushing. Make several rounds with non deforming blows. As your patience wears out begin upping the ante by striking harder. Try twisting all the while. Once you get ever so slight of movement give the parts more soak time because that is when the penetrating product will do the most good. Remember, penetrating fluids need time.

I would not drill cross holes in the bushing however because you will have to drill into the shaft and create mechanical locks as well as hurt the shaft for future use.

Three44s

[Moleman-]

Been using my Forster trimmer since taking the lyman trimmer apart, but today was the day to put the lyman back together. The bushing is 9/16" ID, 3/4" OD and 1.5" long. If you can't find a bushing 1.5" long, two 3/4" ones would work. Motion industries has the correct 9/16" x 3/4" X 1.5" bushing listed on their site as I'm sure do others for around $4.40. If you remove the chuck bolt, mark the bolt so you can install it so the cam action is timed the same or close. Now it good for another 25 years.

[Three44s]

Moleman,

Thanks for giving us those dimensions and other advice!

I wonder what the OP is up to on this project?

Three44s

[Gar10]

That thing looks like new! Nice work! Something to be proud of.

[farmbif]

my chuck is still frozen solid. I'm going to put the stem of it in lathe chuck for leverage and see if I can get internal threads loose. its been soaking for quite some time now as far as the shaft I'm about ready to take the plumbers torch to the bushing. this thing has been so frustrating I'm temped to just order a new one.
I've had much easier time disassembling outboard motors that had soaked in salt water for a decade.

[Three44s]

As far as the bushing that is frozen on the cutter shaft I would use the technique I outlined in post #15.

The case holding head is another matter.

Are you using kroil or silikroil?. In my opinion kroil is the best penetrant of the two.

I would suggest more soak time. Then another option is to acquire another nut of the same shank size, thread pitch and wrench size. Jam the two nuts together and clamp the case holder head in a vise with something soft enough to prevent destroying the part.

With some heat ... not enough to melt anything or remove the temper of any spring, I would use an air or electric impact wrench and start the power very low using a socket that fits the rear jamed nut. Run the power wrench off, then on, back to off, tighter, loser, back and forth.

More heat, more kroil, more rotational vibration.

After a while if unsuccessful, I would put the part back in to soak. At some point I would also try an ultrasonic cleaner. A commercial grade machine in a shop would be better. The repair shop for a boat dealer would come to mind!

Negotiate something if possible

Three44s

[arclight]

Have you tried electrolytic derusting? I have had great luck with this. My 1871 Mauser got the full treatment, and I was even able to salvage the extremely delicate magazine tube this way. Rusted together parts often come right off after a round of electricity and a mildly basic electrolyte bath.

[Moleman-]

I'll have to find some orange crinkle paint for it now, or just just go JD green or IH red.

The threads in the chuck are just coarse V threads. Once you get it free you can undo the nut on the back of the bolt/shaft part, remove it then just unscrew the chuck.

[Shawlerbrook]

Try a little heat.